(goldfish)

That Z photo really has me thinking about putting heavy bars in the rockers under the doors to help stop that. Any comments?

What jon says makes sense tom me, but I must be reading this chart wrong. Not that I doubt you, I just want to learn how to read this correctly for myself. Please point out my errors. The legend states "C LR rear lift neg # = lift, pos # = down force on rear end" For test 10 the whaletail, I read column 4 (CLR) with a value of -.259, and column 12 ( rear lift) as ~-176. It also looks like the other high downforce "spoilers" had the same negative number trends. Like I said I'm really getting lost.

how does that pass smog??

Did you guys get any more insight into the numbers generated by the whaletail. It looks to me like it's making lift out there? Am I reading that right?

That is marketing hype. Please don't take it as a blanket statement. Turbos use exhaust pressure to spin and there is a lot more pressure right next to the head.

Wow, nice diet though. I think we should get a deposit back or something. It's sad when reading these, that you want to just hit the other car. At least you will have a responsible party.

Quickly check the ECU connector.

But they are good facts to start working from. We know what was and was not attached. Nice detail.

Kicking myself for missing the ending of that engine.

Very nice. Well actually it's insane. I tried searching and couldn't find the answer, Aprox. what compression ratio are you running?

He shows up around here once and awhile. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116573&page=2 Post #32 i think gives more info

I vote it would work, for idle. I think all the frames would cause alot of blockage at speed or when the fans aren't running. And I think we covered the cost factor, I agree w/ the water to. big fans typically have a better bearing life, I can't count how many pc fans i've replaced.

Carfiche has the '82 manual for download. I would check the wires at the sending unit, broken/clean conections. If you do get a test guage to check it, the block is tapped in british pipe thread

I would not want to trust the seat back to not compress in an accident. I would stay with the 20 deg. and keeping those straps short.

Well, I guess I was wrong. But that's why I was asking, I wasn't sure and said so. and now I think I know where my confusion came from.

Did I mis-remember a quote? It seemed to me, you stated PVC was a bad idea in this application due to it breaking down from oil? Just want to keep things straight in my head.

Must be nice to be able to call THAT a rusty Z. step on up this away

while you're on the subject. I'm nervous about the bearing clearances, how often are they wrong? How many bearing sizes should I expect to get?

Shouldn't hurt to much. I heard POR-15 worked better if it had a little rust to attach to. Other wise a wire brush should knock it loose.

Have you talked to any of the cam grinders? I would think they would have a good idea if the overlap is a cause.

What kind of costs? I might just "while I'm at it" as I pull the head.

I've been drooling over that site for awhile. Anybody want to donate to me?

I know it's not your words, but man, that statement always bugs me with how wrong it is.

Actually changing the rods dose not change the distance the piston moves up and down, that is purely the crank. So yeah, stroker refers to longer stroking crankshafts. The reason the "common" stroker build uses longer rods, is that the ka24de pistons have a much different pin height relative to the top of the pistons than l28s.

I'm surprised that the two lines are the same voltage. I wonder what they do when getting to the towers, and how much of the sparks was really discharging the copters static charge?