Gollum

The switch plate (I really just grab things and toss them at problems sometimes. That was a macbook pro bottom case cover).

Yup. You can drop in one of the Ford or GM ethanol sensors and run any mix you want provided you've tuned the range of course. You can also run staged injection between any two fuels with table switching/blending. The only caveat is that switching is always done from ms3x to ms3 injector outputs so obvious have to be batch injection on one set of injectors. I plan to tune on 87 octane if I can, and once I've got the secondaries installed I'll tune using e100 with the GM sensor installed, then table blending back down to e85 watching any minor adjustments needed. Then I'm not too worried about the mix I get throughout the year. I got my "switch plate"... Ummm... "Fabbed" up tonight. Will post pics from desktop machine later.

Don't you know it! Will eventually be dual-fueled with e85, so it's in the ballpark in all reality.

Seems like updates are getting further and further apart, but I promise there's movement! (promising myself as much as anyone) I redid my main "dash" panel, which I now call my "bulkhead" because really it's just for mounting all my main wiring components. My goal was that there's a "fork" of functions in regards to wiring in my car. There's "chassis" and there's "engine". Other than sharing the required 12V source and a "turn things on" capability, they shouldn't touch or require each other. Beyond that, I wanted all my "chassis" wiring to be completely replaceable and diagnose-able in easy to manage chunks. If I have a problem, I want to be able to be fairly certain that the problem is either at the bulkhead, or the device. For instance: if I have an issue with my front left turn signal, I want to be able to verify I have no relay/fuse/switch issue in ONE LOCATION before having to diagnose if there's 12V/GND at the light itself, or vice versa. This simplifies diagnostics more than you can imagine. Stock relays could hide anywhere. 12V sources could come from anywhere. Grounds could go anywhere. There's such a mess of slices in the stock chassis harness that it makes me queasy to think about. So that said, my bulkhead: You'll note the use of aluminum conduit, and that's admittedly unconventional and I wouldn't exactly recommend it for everyone. What it offers me is an easy to way pull new runs if I decide to add wiring down the road, as well as cheap connections to make loom pathways through sections of body. Weather tight fittings are a thing, and they're not pricey. It's a fairly low weight investment, and makes me feel much better about doing ground-up chassis wiring than just covering it in typical plastic loom. This last weekend I got my tail light wiring completed, and I'm still using the stock panel harnesses back there, but I've at least abstracted the wiring in the sense that I can easily upgrade the panel down the road and also conforms to star grounding and the grounds all come back to that bulkhead. Next up is to get the front lighting done so I can check off the "lighting" box on the to-do's and feel like it's that much closer to "road worthy" as I near engine-running state. Which brings us to engine. I've procured a MN47 head, that sadly will for now go on a turbo dish bottom end, which is far from ideal. I just want to travel the path of least resistance to get running, which means dealing with the drawbacks I'm going to encounter. The good(est) news is that en-route right now, is a full MS3X setup: Beyond that, I'm going COP out the gate. About to purchase a transistor/ignotor box from a Z32 + the DIYautotune trigger wheel to drop into the dizzy. Coils will be the ones Ford used on the modular 4.6, as I have a friend with a small pile willing to just give me six (and likely a spare or two just in case). This should alleviate any issues that arise from the imperfect combustion arrangement, even if it means down a power in the bottom half or more of the rev range. Also, the head had a broken stud (I broke it trying to pull it) and is with a friend (COP donor) who has a drill press and will hopefully be able to grind it out for me. Once back and free of stud I'll drop the head on and start assembly. Also, part of my excuse for being so slow to work on this has been the whole adulting thing (getting married, having kids, etc), so here's picture proof. Note: Odds are I won't be able to do engine wiring with the conduit, which is sad, but not the end of the world. I just don't want to fuss with more than I have to at this point.

Careful what you assume, diyautotune themselves recommend silicon on the connector if you actually expect a wet environment (which is what they did for their fish tank display). Sorry in advance for the topic side chain. The CPU side has never been open source, the software/firmware has been in the past. The last open source firmware was the ms2. MS3 forward is free to modify, but strictly not allowed to be redistributed. They've gotten MUCH tighter on the hardware side, largely because there's people making Chinese knock offs and there's no guarantee as to the components they're using. That said, its still the most flexible platform for the price that the average electronics geek can get running/working. If you want something truly open and deeper geek level, check out rusefi. Also regarding ms3pro, the boards aren't exactly the same features as a ms3x with the 3.57 board. So people should really do thier homework before deciding, which is my largest beef with the MS product world, unclear definitive documentation.

When you're spending 5k+ on an engine, transmission adaption becomes "easy". T56 has been done, and it's far from hard.

I simply can't imagine how much this will move the surge point in the RPM range for the "big boys" turbos. On a conventional wastegate setup this could very well be making boost in HALF the RPM compared to a stock Nissan head of any kind, and wouldn't get mad at you for creating 15psi by 2,000rpm. But really, even 15psi on this head is looking like a 700+hp engine, which means we're talking BIG turbo requirements. I'm thinking something in the GT47 size range with a turbine AR down sub 1.00. Should spool that sucker in no time, and you're not trying to get 1200hp worth of air out of it.

Wow, why have I been away from hybridZ? There simply aren't words. No really. Not words. The only thing I can muster is )!*#$)!)I!)#I$)UI_(!U$(PU!POU$PU!@DJOPJ!!(!!!!!OP@#!. So yea. Not that I can afford it, but 10k would be a DEAL to have one of those made. Hell, having one shipped to someones door ready to bolt on for 15k would still put it in a price/HP range of any similar HP/Liter NA inline 6 builds. Can one REALLY get a 350hp BMW NA inline 6 into their S30 for less? Besides, this was swagger for not just days, but lifespans. When I start making yearly what most people spend on their house I'll ring your phone... Until then, good gawd please keep up the work.

Funny, I was elated to trade a P90 for a MN47 straight up to someone who was just turning it in for core to robello... Depending on what you're doing, the MN47 might actually be better, unless you want to spend the time/money/energy welding chambers. For my purposes, it's significantly easy to deal with the downsides of the MN47 than build up the P90 chambers for a high compression setup on a stock bottom.

Considering yellowoctopus is already running the older DOHC motor, the newer coyote head variants should be a walk in the park. Personally, I can't wait to hear a GT350 with real equal length headers, as I feel much of the sound clips I've heard are a bit tainted by the OEM headers. There's a lot of rumbly for being a flat plane, and I think they were actually shooting for that.

Coming back to this a mere two years later. I'm wiring up my car finally and plan to be purchasing my MS box in a month or so here. From what I'm seeing, the new economy upgrades allow for a fully calculated fuel gauge. No input required. I'm ditching my sender entirely, since the stock gauge isn't THAT accurate anyway.

Leon, its not about goals, its about safety margin. E85 doesn't foul plugs like gasoline when you go too rich, instead it just starts making less power, which is why people get away with running huge nozzles for meth with only basic control of it. The big upside to this property is that it also cools the chamber and lowers EGTs when they get beyond where you want them. And if I happen to make more whp than anyone non-intercooled (that I've seen) then so be it.

Read... ...there are no part suppliers with upgrade kits. No off the shelf manifolds. We're a site full of people who take performance seriously, and thus sit down and read and experiment in order to understand a problem, and then engineer a way to fix it. A great example is the head cooling sticky. Worth the 2-3 hours of your time to go through it and really understand it.

For reference, I hope to be prepared to saturate 1400cc or larger injectors with ethanol... I'm going with THREE medium sized pumps. Why three? Redundancy. If one fails I can still make it home and maybe even keep from blowing a motor if it happens without me realizing. Also, one over worked pump tends to transfer more heat into the fuel than two smaller ones under less individual load flowing the same overall amount.

We can speculate till the cows come home. Want a definitive answer? Find a tuner that's willing to use a pressure sensor in the chamber and record data at various loads, intake PSI, AFRs, and spark timings and find out what YOUR engine is doing with YOUR setup. In all reality we still know VERY little about your engine, and can't give you an informed answer from an uninformed seat across the internet. This is why financial specialists on the radio say "you should see a financial planner and talk about your specific details to get better advice" because they simply can't get into the nuances in a few minutes. Want real advice? Find a professional or treat us like professionals and write a 2,000 word post detailing everything you know about the engines setup and its intended use and goals. I plan to run flat tops on a MN47 (closed kidney shaped chamber that's smaller than the P90) with a huge turbo, but I also wouldn't recommend anyone do that unless they knew what they were doing any why. Just because you have an L series with a P90 doesn't mean we know the answer. Engines aren't that general of a science.

You know what's funny? First thing I thought of when I saw that video last week was this place.

Bringing this back from the dead, I know. But I was going through old posts on the topic and found this alarming falsehood that amazingly had no retort. This is utter B.S. There is no law in CA that I've seen (and I've ready nearly all of the smog related ones I believe) that says anything of the sort. What the law DOES state, is that in order to swap an engine in a BAR approved manner, the engine DOES need to come from the same vehicle weight class (no heavy pickup engines in a triumph, but regular 1/4 or 1/2 ton pickups would be fine in most cases depending on GVW), cannot be from a model year older vehicle, and the engine cannot be of lesser equivalent smog equipment. The latter bit is what the state ref will use to tell you that you can't install a carbureted engine in a vehicle that was E.F.I. from the factory. A move obvious violation would be installing an engine with no factory evap system when your stock engine DID have evap. Obvious no-no. Further proof of this falsehood, is the fact that last time I was talking with a ref while he tested my own car (about a year ago now), he was trying to get ME to SWAP a LS1 into my 280ZX!!!! Yes, that's right. The ref WANTED me to swap my engine and bring it back to be legalized... Why? Because he'd just legalized one earlier in the month and thought it was really cool. No back to your regularly scheduled slumber...

Not all dynos are create equal, but they CAN be accurate. I'd even say that ALL dyno types CAN be accurate under the right conditions/operations. What's more, there's documentation by people the dyno OEM engines for a LIVING for the OEM's themselves, who admit that they can vary peak output numbers by as much as 10% without cheating the numbers.... It's just like the weight of an engine. It means nothing unless you know ALL the parameters. How were they cooling the engine? How were they getting air flow to the intake? What did the exhaust system on the dyno look like? If it's a chassis dyno, what type of resistance did the rollers offer? Was there traction loss? How were the tires loaded? I know of a reputable local shop that has ZERO reason to inflate their numbers, as their customers care about winning races, not numbers on a sheet. When they build an engine, they rely on data from data logs to calculate the power curve, because it's MORE reliable and MORE to-the-fact than their 6 figure AWD dyno... But some customers want to see the dyno in the shop, and have "proof" dynos, so they have a dyno. But at the end of the day, they could care less what the dyno says, they look at data logs. What does THAT tell you about dynos? But I agree that there was more power to be had with more PSI. The fact that the engine in question "stopped making power" past 15psi means that something was wrong with the setup. Either for some unknown reason there was a severe mismatch with the turbo, or there was something wrong. But we'll never know because racecar....

Well the moment has come and gone unfortunately. Car left me last weekend and the ONE chance I had I got to the scale about 30 minutes after they closed. I was ready to start pounding at the gate but it looked pretty deserted already. It's too bad, because like I said, it's not every day I come across a bone stock 100% OEM turbo. Not a single bolt was missing from the engine bay, flat tire air was still the Nissan branded bottle. The only quibble I had was that it had an alarm, which probably added a couple pounds. And it was a manual too, not auto.

I have a 83' 280zx turbo that I'm selling on Sunday, but I'd LOVE to be able to weigh it. Local truck scales are a bit rude to cars that pull in, so does anyone anywhere from Oakland to Davis or nearby happen to own scales I could use for a short while? Ill bring a 6 pack of your choice.

Are you sure the mic is perfectly aligned with the y axis? If not it's incredibly hard to get consistent and accurate readings. Also, not having a TRUE before reading means that this is ALL just conjecture anyways. I would never trust documentation 100%. Unless it was in a nissan FSM as part of a rebuild spec blueprint then it wouldn't really be even close to "gospel" and even THAT documentation can leave something to be desired at times.

What on earth tire are you going to put on a 16x9.5? Or are you going to be like the auto hypsters and stretch a 225 on there? Options for 16" tires of decent width are slim, which was why this group buy was started to begin with. The big downside that we ALL recognized was that 17" tires tend to be too tall for S30 suspension geometry, but again, there just isn't many options for those wanting to run WIDE street tires.

BRAAP's EDIS testing confirms this. If you can trigger EDIS on a saw blade, I'm pretty sure you can trigger it on just about anything magnetic. I'm glad to hear the project is still up and running. Has there been any more dyno progress with the smaller bores? Obviously you don't have much anything to prove, I'm just curious how far you'll end up taking the project.

Hey I know where that is. I was actually just driving around that area last night windows shopping at the houses that are for sale (couple in that area). ...now if I could just triple my salary to afford it. Congrats though. Looks like a great place and I'm sure it'll work out nicely for you guys.

If I wasn't working 50 hours a week and had two kiddos at home in diapers I'd be backing up threads I felt essential... It was more than 48 hours of more downtime and uptime, with no update from anyone. There still hasn't been any announcement about the outages. Mods seem to be more and more scarce as of late. Call me paranoid, but I'm worried. The internet world is largely moving away from forums as places for information, and instead just becoming places to chit chat, which has never been hybridz's strong suite. Without more of us keeping our local factions alive, I'm worried there won't be the drive for there to be people to carry the torch much longer. I just hope hybridZ lives long enough for people to get at least most of the amazing information housed here into a more palatable format. Again, maybe I'm just paranoid.