Gollum

Well... Hmm.. good questions. Your last question "fuel being injected instead of mixed with the air before" well, there is direct port injection wich is much better as it can help cool the chamber down using the same amount of fuel. I'd like to see how a diesel fuel burns in a chamber. More on the subject here. It's a GREAT article that I learned alot from. Kinda off topic but it applies in some ways. http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/ I think the main differences between gasoline & diesel is it's stability. Gasoline requires much higher temps to burn and burns much faster. Diesel burns slow and easy. Reading the above article I learned for the first time that detonation only happens after the spark. I still don't really understand the phenomina that the pressure from the initial ignite causes the outter fuel to combust creating a secondary flame. When people always talked about tuning a turbo motor until they find the detonation limit, I always had in my mind what I know found out is pre-ignition, wich isn't what they're talking about at all. I've learned alot today, and my head hurts trying to understand it all. Hope you guys like the article.

SR240Z, apples and oranges. Carbed big displacement SOHC NA VS small displacement EFI DOHC Turbo. Cross flow VS non cross flow. My statement is that if you take an NA motor and turbo it, you're guarenteed a MPG loss. Now, certain motors CAN have good MPG turbo'd compared to other NA motors. The main thing is that a turbo motor will have to work less for the same HP amound as a NA motor. What that means in reality is that if you take a NA motor to high HP levels effeciancy drops WAY down. In many cases, we're not looking at HP requirements to get us into the 12's, we're looking for a high 13 low 14 sec street car that gets 30-35+MPG.

Keep us updated. I'll fallow the swap closely. And a final note i'd like to make. Grimlynsan, I bet a turbo would be more fuel efficiant "IF" we're talking about the same HP/duty numbers. Around town a 250HP turbo motor will most likely consume more fuel than the same motor running NA at a higher compresison, even if you're keeping your foot out of it. If you take a NA motor and turbo it, MPG will do down, period. BUT, that doesn't mean you can make a turbo motor with good MPG. It's all give and take and what HP range you're shooting for.

I'd go with the KA. It's got more part support over here in the USA and doesn't have substantially less potencial than other NA 4 bangers. As long as you're not looking for tons of power the NA will give better results. The KA is also quite a tourque monster for a 4 cylinder engine. I think it'll get a Z around with ease. And like hugh said, the SX scoots fine, and the Z is a lighter car and the stock engine can get left in the dust by almost every new car out on the road. I think a KA with some light mods (ecu, flywheel, clutch, intake, header) would yeild a very nice town car Z that gets awsome mileage. None of the mods I mention have to take away MPG and will more likelly enhance it. The choice is yours, but if it were my choise, i'd go KA. (note, i might go with a KA in the future because I'm in an area where I have to keep any swap legal due to heavy cop presence and smog requirements, leaving me with few options)

Well, just had a long conversation with my bro and he's pretty pissed right now. I tried to explain that in this rotary design it's too difficult to use gasoline because it can't take the compression the motor has has, but diesel works becuase diesel is added after the peak of compression. He flat out told me I was arguing to opposites, that I was saying that "they can't use gasoline because it burns to easily but yet doesn't burn easily enough." I tried to explain that the gasoline, if added before compresson, could ignite durnign peak compression, wich would be a bad thing, but if they added it afterwards would need spark pugs wich seems near impossible with the design. He didn't understand and said I was full of BS and need to start looking up my s*** and actually learn something.... I havn't seen him his POed in a long time. I don't know if he's mad becuase what i'm saying really does sound hypocrytical, or if he's mad becuase he can't understand it. Maybe he's just on his man period or something. Can anyone help fix my terms so it makes more sence?

Just go with all CF front end panels bastaad. That'll save you quite a bit of wieght and should make it turn in alot swifter. Then I'd loof for a CF trunk replacement. How heavy is the stock trunk? The evo trunk feels like it's not even there when you're opening it.

Yo, i didn't realise these rims could change the look of the car so much! 8) OK, haha. I had my laugh. Here ya go. I don't think mine looks as good as blackbeaut's, but it's a different angle to give you a different perspective.

mMm, inspiration pictures 8) I need a job & a place to work on my car NOW!

Ok, so I'm gonna replace my sway bar bushings so I can actually put my sway bar back on 8) I was thinking while i'm at it I should order some other bushings as well. There has been some talk in the past about people breaking TC rods due to the urathane bushings being to hard and causing too much stress on the rods. Ok, i'm not really going all out performance yet, just looking to do some cheep changes to get this thing a little more repsonsive. So should I change just my control arm bushings and not the TC rod bushings? Or just go all rubber? I'll probly also look at getting the urathane bump stops as well, unless someone recomends against them. Or should I skip spending almost $100 from MSA and just buy thier $225 sway bars? Would that make more a difference per dollor? At the very least i'm gonna spend the small change to at least get the sway bar bushings.

If you need a little pick me up after that slightly discouraging last post (although it was all true) here's some food for thought. If I had more power and money for tires, I'd go attend a drift day event RIGHT NOW! I've done my fair share of sliding, and pretty much all mods in drift cars are to make the car more controlable and stable. THERE'S NOTHING KEEPING THE CAR FROM GOING SIDEWAYS, but power will keep you there, and suspension and chassis work will make it easier to stay there. Good luck.

Isn't that nirvana? Complete hybrid. For me, half the apeal of the Z is that half of those idiot car people out there don't know what they are unless they have a badge. My brother liked getting looks at his cobra, and it gots looks because it is a cobra. I want people to look at my car and say "what is that?" Imagine walking up to a car, that looks totally unique, and realising there isn't a single thinig on the outside to tell what it is. That's my goal with my projects. I can't stand peole who just put body kits on thier cars. It just looks so unatural. Mody work should either enhance the stock lines, or recreate the whole look altogether. Most kits just try to make the stock lines look like something they're not, without actaully changing them. I'd still love the idea of a mid engine Z, just becuase it would be so different.

Too bad it wasn't a KB (kenny bell supercharger) cobra. Then maybe he would have the right to call his car a LS1 killer. If you're gonna call youself something and call a certain type out, you'd better to be able to back it up. Yea, newer mustangs are tanks. They NEED that 500hp, trust me. I've been in 200hp hondas that had more wow factor in the butt than 350hp stangs. And the HP numbers sound about right, as long as he's done it right. You can get well into the 500 range on the stock charger. And it's still one of the few cars that can hit 9's on a stock bottom end in stock trim at it's price range Awsome race though man. I wish I saw more nice cars around here. Although, the other day I spotted a ...crap... I forget what it was. It was chevy, convertible... can't remember the name, but it was late 60's era. So I kinda came up the side of him and reved it to see him punch it. He did. (worth of a whole sentence) I reemed mine out, but make sure to shift before 6k since I couldn't hear my car at all due to his SUPER loud engine... It was 2 black guys, and I expect them to be jerks (me and my bro being to white guys) but I had my brother ask about the motor anyways. They had wide grins ear to ear and said 502 in unison. Me and bro bother say NICE in unison. Light turns green, we're bother turning left and he smokes the tires and gets sideways and brings it back in nice to keep a safe distance from the curb. Me and bro drool... I just love encountering fast cars, regardless of my car by comparison, or make/model.

Hey are you gonna go to the vacaville meet? You should man, we could talk then Yea, a close friend of mine (known him my whole life) used to work for the local smog ref and now has his license and is trying to start his own shop. I've love to exchange knowledge on the subject (i'd rather learn than give knowledge, but i'm always up for both)

Looking at it again, I don't truly understand what makes it actually turn. A mazda/wankle/rotary Has an elongated chamber with 2 different timings offset a little. The initial brun has a directional burn to it that causes it to spin. In thier diagrams it seems almost all the force is just away from the rotor, not actaully perpelling the travel of the rotor. Maybe there's just some small detail i'm missing or they don't show. Wait a second... I just figured it out. They're not burning right at the peak of compression, but after it. AHH, now I understand the conversation about diesel. Ok, so you can't run gasoline in it unless you inject the fuel late, or else you'd had detonation. Is it actually possible to inject enough fuel late enough for high HP use? Or is deisel the only realistic option for the motor, becuase it seems to offer great performance for the weight.

WOW, that was a kick in the head... ...I'm gonna be staring at that animation ALL NIGHT. Thaks alot man! Gosh! I want to know hw those seals work, and if the motor will burn oil like a rotory. I like the idea though. I truly different take on wankle.

What does this mean? The Z is old enough to muster some respect from the muscle car, because it's not seen as a "rice machine" and yet somehow the Z also gains respect from the import crowd as they see it as "kewl old school". We got the best of both worlds

Hey, if I become your friend will my car suddenly sprout an engine with HP in the triple digits? Nice gtr man. I need one.

Ok, so i can see the pressure issue. But, the real neat idea, is the idea of an air hybrid. Why not use an alternator on a motor to compress air that could then be used as an alternate motor. It would be interesting to see if that woud be more effective than the current electric hybrids. Although, to show my true stance, every car I ever buy with the thought in mind it will be a 'fun' car, will be internal cumbustion. But, like the rotary, these ideas need the chance to be seen and tried before discarded. If we just shot down all new ideas we wouldn't even have this board. I know most of use (probly all of us) don't like the idea of traveling around town in a "economy efficiant" car, but the truth is, unless we do something the government is going to force us into that position. If you really want to help keep the internal combustion motor alive, figure out how to eliminate start up emissions. That's the majority of emissions a car create. Get rid of those and we'll be centuries ahead in efficiancy than the electric cars. Electricity just takes too many resources to create and get to the people. The idea of using other means to create power has been explored and shut down by the power companies. They're as bad as the oil industry. Forget about waring with them, lets just take away thier hopes of everyone going out and buying an electro-vehicle. Sorry, how tall was that soap box? I think I injured my knees on the jump down. I'm such an a**

Well, my car is a S130. Big difference. But when I got the car the bushings for the front sway bar were shot, like I'd hear the sway bar bouncing up and down constantly. I looked under the car and there was a good 6 inches of vertical play in the bar. So off it came. I still havn't bought new bushings. I've had the car up to 100-110 (speedo goes to 85, so i can't say I KNOW how fast i've gone) and the car seems to handle fine. I agree wtih peter though, take it off and drive down the freeway. Be your own judge.

If the car had a turbo badge, then yes, it does look stock. I love the intercooler too. Overall that's a nice swap, very well done. It would pass the cop test methinks.

Does it leak? If you're putting a quart of oil in every couple of weeks, you're actually going through more oil than if you were changing your oil every 3k. A friend of mine with a ford bronco II hasn't changed his oil ever, and it looks cleaner than the oil in my car (wich needs to get changed, just passes 3k)

You takling to me innerware? becuase it DOES work. http://www.theaircar.com/tests.html The company has been big buzz in the UK lately. We'll probly be seeing them in the US in less than a decade methinks.

I'm still racking my mind on how to complete this idea. Get a small V6 that you can get a centrifugal blower on to get to 500HP without an intercooler, get the motor as far bas as possible modifying the firewall need be to get to the point you can't go back farther due to interior space, then modify the front end so there isn't so much nose overhang. A R230 should add some weight to the backend. Put in a cage and weld the roof to the cage to drop the roof line slightly. Rake the windshield back a bit for areo. Put in all speedglas type windows. You should have an ultra low CG with a good rear weight bias to get a really good base to tune with. Granted it would be alot of work for a small difference, it would be dang fun to do.

Yea, borken link. OBD has the very obvious OBD plug locations. If you're lucky they'll know that it's preOBD (wich a ref would know for sure, but is more likely to know what's stock) and skip over looking for the plug to begin with. A cop would probly never know. I bet I could pass any RB motor NA with a cop (yes i realise that my title revolves around cops), but the bi-annual test i'd either have to really try to make certain aspects of the motor dissapear, or change the motor every other year (wich i'm willing to do, since even if a cop sent me to a ref, i could change the motor). But that means I need to have stored in a garage a motor, tranny, driveshaft, mounts, ect. And lets not even get into the idea of swaping the harness. That's just nasty to think about.

You receipt should have the mileage. Get that receipt! If it's obviously related to the tranny install, and you can prove it, then they have to compensate for you having it fixed. If they don't, get a quote from another shop to fix it, then threaten to take them to small claims for that price plus your time (at thier labor rate, not what you make) or just settle for the price to fix it. If they're smart they'll settle.