Owen

I don't think you can calculate actual VE, not at home anyway. It all depends on your cam, intake, exhaust, etc. You have to tell the system you estimate of VE. For some management systems, you set a target A/F ratio, the O2 measures actual A/F, and the computer adjust fuel accordingly. If your system supports the readout, 0% O2 correction is ideal. The Megasquirt looks pretty decent. But for those with loftier goals in mind, supercharging/turbos etc., I don't think the system can hang without much work. What I don't like about it: +It's decribed as "experimental" right at the top. +It's only been installed on two cars so far. Who will be guinea pig number 3? +Switching from bank fire to sequential fire requires additional software (and hardware?) mods. +Switching from speed density to alpha-N requires additional software mods. +The MAP sensor is internal. +It doesn't control ignition. I don't know why they use the tach signal as a reference, to me, a cam-sync or crank angle signal would be much better. Who knows? Not trying to knock anyone who's bought this system, I am just wary of it's experimental state and the fact that changes to the system require more mods when most EFI management systems have these built in already. And knowing my electronics skills, if something went wrong, they would say I built it wrong... Owen

Haltech Australia was very helpful to me, they also have an office in Texas somewhere. But I had gotten to know one of the techs at the Australian site so well that I kept contacting him. Owen

As Tim says, I think there is a problem with the angle of the tubing...but now I'm starting to wonder, the gas is flowing pretty fast (don't know what pressure) but maybe a setup like that picture Phil posted is just fine, moved to behind the lic. plate or wherever? Tim, your cell is shorter than mine, you shouldn't have any problems with doing a setup like this? Owen

If my post is still there in the For Sale section, I'm selling mine. http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001714 Price is negotiable. Email me if you're interested. Owen

I doubt the automakers would even use that term, at least here at Honda they don't. I agree that the Z is not rice but can be made into it by what you do to it (as Tim240Z refers to my 5-inch exhaust tip ). So is it rice if I put an emblem from a 350Z on my 1973 240Z??? Owen

Face it guys, this is the Rice Age. I've always wanted to coin a new term, you can use it with my permission! Owen

I knew about the Zero Rust, a lot of the car painters I talk to advocate it, I think it can be sprayed with a paint gun too. I just went the epoxy primer route. That other stuff is kinda like POR-15 ain't it? That Rustoleum at Home Depot you told me about seems to work pretty well too. Owen

Ahh, here it is.... http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000497 There are 4 tapes total. Owen

Dang, I can't find that post either, I forgot what I was charging. I'll get back to you. Tim, whaddya mean you're STILL waiting??? Did I promise you one? I must have not received the check yet Owen

Hey Doodyhead, Where in CA are you? I'm in So Cal. Owen

They are LSD, VLSD to be precise. Whether the differential action is 1-way, 1.5 or 2-way, I don't know. It is not a bolt on affair. See http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/r230.htm to http://www.v8zcar.com/s30z/r230-4.htm You need, new mustache bar drilled for the R230, new axles, new adapters for the axles, new driveshaft, new diff. mount, new rear brace sold by someone here. Tim240Z was supposedly making a kit for this, do a search. Owen

How big is the balancer in this kit? 8" is way too big for the Z I think. I have a 6.5" one on my 383. Is the flexplate compatible with yuor starter, tranny, etc? I only know flywheels and had to make sure I had the right number of teeth, etc on the flywheel, etc (not hard to do). And the cam, what power range? What about heads? The engine components should all work together for best power and efficiency. If you're like me who took 3 years to get his car together and somewhat running, it would be better to have another engine to work on, especially if this is your only car. Figure out how you want to drive the car and see if that universal 383 kit will suit your needs. "non-stock comp. ht. piston" this is a non-stock compression height piston? What compression would it give you? I heard somewhere a reason why the 5.7 rods are better but forgot why. Owen

BOY, what a stupid question! Just kidding I would assume the laptop is hooked up and turned on before power is applied to the ECU. Then when you turn on the IGN, the laptop should receive the signal from the ECU and you should get readings from various sensors, etc. Never used what you're using so I don't know but I don't think the car has to be running. You told me once that you can't make changes real-time, you have to shut down, make changes offline, and then upload your changes. Which is strange to me unless you can datalog and then view the results later. Is it start up time now??? Owen

What's wrong with rice? I like it! ...as Tim240Z will take every chance he has to poke fun at me. It looks clean without the turn sigs in the same location as the earlier Zs. I want to cover my turn sig holes up or make brake ducts. Bright-ass fogs would be cool too but would probably get damaged right away. Owen

Very nice, Did that air dam not have holes for turn sigs in the first place or did you cover them up? To me it looks like a urethane dam? Owen

Like I said, Davies seems to be the way to go if no one makes one for your engine. They are in Australia, BTW. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/08/electricwaterpump/index.shtml http://www.daviescraig.com.au/ http://www.daviescraig.com.au/release.html Pretty cool, temperature control, etc. Owen

I dunno, the positions of the shifter on the T56 are pretty close. I tried to make a gate but the slots for say, 2,4, and 6 were so close together it wasn't worth the effort. A thinner shifter lever would make it easier... Owen

How about getting a Davies Electrical Water pump? Looks pretty simple to bolt on and is an easier solution to waiting for CSI to come up with something, get it approved, and then get it on the market. I use their electric on my chevy engine myself. Owen

Cool deal. I'm interested in where you found the info on huggers vs full length = no power loss? I'm using Hooker ceramic block huggers. Email me if you can since I'm not here much anymore. Thanks. Owen

You gots mail! Owen

I did this and may have pix. I'll email you later when on tonite. Owen

One correction, it was the "V8 Swapper's Forum" I created on some free service called Casual Forums. No wonder it was free cuz it sucked Let's keep this place alive! Owen

So, what is the air duct on Peter Cunningham's NSX for? A front mount radiator??? Anyone know? http://www.nsxflorida.com/NSXPO2001/DSCN2112.JPG Owen

The choice of paint is yours, but yes you should do a primer coat. I wash fiberglass parts with hot soap and water, lightly sand, wipe with wax and grease remover, wipe with a micro-fiber cloth, and then paint. Owen

The shop was telling you about epoxy primer which I have used exactly the same way. Since the sandable, high-build primer is porous, it holds water but the epoxy stuff doesn't. I used PPG DP90 (may be illegal in some areas). Just a coating of epoxy can be left to sit on the car for a while. But after a week it has to be lightly scuffed before spraying another coating on it. Another choice you could use is etching primer. The people I have talked to go back and forth about whether it's needed under epoxy primer and I went without it. Others swear by it, it's your call. Owen