buZy

Anything with a V8 is ...a good thing!

True carbon fiber dash and interior panels.

KISS Detroit rock city.

Owwwie!

What about Big Phil?

It would be interesting a factory datsun S30 240Z crash test. Just to see what happens. I have searched youtube and found nothing.

Amen.

Yup! I'll do it! Thank you and everyone else in the armed services for doing such a great service to our nation and the world.

Great job on the guitar! I know this is Hybridz but painting a Z like that to me is a bad idea.

Killer Z!.....Your questions can all be answered by searching.

You could space your mounts and shorten the end links a bit. Or if you are not running cv's go to a 240z style rear mounted bar. If you are not running cv's the 3/4 ST bar will bolt right in and clear with no mods.

Sounds awesome! The dream was alive till he killed the front end. ouch.

How exactly does that work?

I'm a Designer. 95 grad. Nice work! Cool and surreal.

Sounds Awesome! Very Cool Vid!

I did alum floor pans. But not to fix a rust problem. Did it to lower the seating, interior trans x-member support, and increase overall 3D structure. Yes very labor intensive indeed. The strength in most surface situations is much stronger than welding to thin sheet metal. Ferrous and nonferrous metal is not a problem. I have used alum all over the car in many places for many years now with zero corrosoin problems. It's really not an issue. Pics in my hybrid galley show many areas of use. (Seat pans, fuel box, sub frame connectors, rear hatch tailgate support.) http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&page=3&ppuser=10889 For your rust problem though. I would weld in some steel new floors. You could riv in alum and seal it up and it would work great. Though most people looking at your car for resale would think it was a hack job when it's not. People are stupid sometimes, like welding is king or something. Too much pimp my ride tv. If a Z was build using rivets instead of spotwelds just think of the cost factor. Yes the weight but most weld stitch there car too so go figure the real weight. Too exotic. Built like a real aircraft, like a WWII Jap Zero. The abilty to maintain/replace joints and substructures and spreading out the load in joints, far superior. Ok guys don't kill me now. Each process has its own positive and negatives sides. I just see many doing restoration falling into "I have to weld it" when other alternatives could be implemented with better success.

i agree with Jon. im running the st 1 front 34 rear. understeer or oversteer depends on many more factors. the bigeest diff the bars made was the car tracks straight at higher speeds above 100. the car is loose on low speed sharp turns. if pushed in the same corner harder then becomes tight. so there is a full slide balance point somewhere where as to lift of the throttle to quick the car will spin. good enough for me. on the street i dont want to twist it any further.

How about just adapting one of these to fit instead. http://altecproducts.com/products_corvetteaccy.htm

Sorry guys. I didnt mean to down play the seriousness of this subject. I just thought these parts have might have some curb appeal too.

How about making some that just look cool. Who cares if they actually work or not.

Here is a few of mine using a non fuel safe, summit racing steel poly cell. Alum sub-frame box. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D290112&N=700+4294925239+4294839036+115&autoview=sku

I'd run steel instead an aluminum DS. Yea alum is light and cool but being short in a v8z the weight is almost a non factor. Your u-joint unions will thank you after many hard launches.

Toyota Prius Hybrid.

Hmm hard to say sooo many good ones.... Ok here's a few favs. Mike Patton. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lF8PhKTE7A4 Tom Araya http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrT9KuKRaac Jim http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xD-H12qlBQY

I wouldn't mess around with your ds untill ALL final mounting and angles are set. Measure twice, cut once. An inch plus or minus is not even close. Good luck!