buZy

I agree. There is no replacement for displacement.

I used supertraps as angled style side pipes on my 71' Javelin SST 401 4spd. Straight pipes to the traps. To me the exhaust note sucked. I was not impressed no matter how many discs added. Ended up just running no discs. I have heard from too many other experienced people that these mufflers flow Terrible, despite the looks. If you like the looks go for it. If you seeking to increase power look for something else. EDIT: It wasnt that loud on the street even with no discs. Thats with a 10.5 to 1 compression AMC motor pushing a solid 400Hp.

If you are thinking of a T56 here is a great dependable conversion kit from Bob Weir. http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/ EDIT: Be warned, with all due respect Bob knows his product very well. Quality stuff and knowledge. Though be prepared to drop some jing for it. A good used t56 goes for around 1000 to 1200. His kit cost around 1300 with the clutch alum flywheel etc. With a driveshaft and few other details 3000 is very possible. If money is an issue for you too the TH350 is much cheaper and easier to get the car running. I don't want to sound like I am down playing autos at all here. They have definate advantages over a manual gear box. It all depends what you are going for... Keep searching and good luck. Brian

Have been adjusting the brakes by hand. Tight or loose to the drum it does not seem to matter. Not sure of the exact pad material, typical auto parts store replacements. Here is what I am also wondering about basic brake dynamics. Do the front calipers (Toyota 4 wheel drive pickup truck 79-85) use more fluid capacity than the stock ones? If so, it would be using more fluid to the fronts and then not enough pressure the rears? If that is the case then using a prop valve on the front line might help? Maybe not as it might be all about pressure and not really fluid capacity. Like Jon said my fronts are just to powerful compared to the rears. I trust his word and wealth of racing knowledge. So I guess it is time to start experimenting with proportioning the rear line. It would be cool to get these brakes working properly. Really dont want to spend the money on a 4 wheel disc upgrade. This is the lightest setup possible and would work fine for the street. Again, Thank you everyone for your input. Brian

No they are not frozen. New nissan oem parts only about a year or two old. The fluid is always kept clean and with less than 1500 miles total.

Hey Jon thank you for the advise. I have learned so much from this site time and time again. Dual masters would be cool though probably not needed on the street. Saw Johns conversion you were talking about. Wow! Nice quality parts indeed! My old brakes are so not worthy haha! Ok for now I will search for pinched lines and try a adj prop valve. Hope luck is on my side this time.

Hey John thanks for the reply. Checked the adjusters and they are not frozen. When I replaced the shoes I took them apart and lubricated them. If fact I replaced the entire wheel cylinders with new oem parts on both wheels. Putting it all back together working the parking brake did adjust wheel cylinders but a short while after the clicking noise went away. The parking brake may also need adjustment it feels soft though most its motion till the last few clicks. So I have been manually adjusting checking them every few hunderd miles. But it appears no matter how tight I fit the drums to the pads the brakes still have little engagement. During road testing under extreme braking the fronts do produce considerable heat. Very hot to the touch. The rears barely any real heating experienced.

In good faith to Hybridz I did a long search but didn't find much. Still trying to figure out why my rears won't 'lock up' like the fronts do under hard braking. They feel like they almost dont work at all. But reading the oem serive maunal I found this, a rear proportional valve located on the rear brake line. On my car it looks 35 years old so my thought is how can it be still in good working condition. Corroded shut, not letting enough fluid pass through? It is allowing some to pass as the rears still do bleed fluid. Either way I am going to take a chance and replace it with something as it can't cost much money. I am running out of ideas to fix this problem. My question is should I replace it with an exact oem or join the lines together and run a stardard aftermarket adjustable bias valve inside the car? Have any of you guys had much experience with these before? Sorry for rambling on and on but this issue is driving me crazy! Thanks, Brian Stock rears new shoes and adjusted. Fronts toyota calipers oem rotors new pads New 71 oem master Brian

No problem. You live in California. If OJ can get away with murder a speeding ticket should be nothing right?. lol jk sorry. Dude face it, your busted at 80 or 90. Throw your mercy on the court and go "guilty with an explanation". If you don't and then loose, prepare to pay the price. If your cool and don't bs the judge it will most likely be reduced to a lower speeding offense.. if you have a clean record.

Avoid the hassle and swap to a V8. 300HP is very cheap to get plus all that low rpm bottom end torque few L6 motors can ever match.

No smog here. They had it then killed it about 8 years ago. When it was enforced they went back to 75.

Thanks alexideways!

I run the same x-over. Dual flowmasters. The previous owner installed the the air dam. Still cant decide if I like it but for now it works I guess.

What the chances of my 78 280 R200 parts car having an oem LSD or posi type unit. If it did would be worth it to inspect it to see if it's ok? The car is in sad shape and buried in snow. But lsd diffs are expensive new and I thought maybe by rare chance I could save some money. Is it worth checking out or waste of time? Brian

240z. It all depends what you call good. Maybe 5 to 7k. It may be alot of money but puts you way ahead and better helps the overall investment. You will save at least twice the money compared to bulding a car to equal that level. Rust. All z's have some. Battery tray, floors, hatch areas. If the car has some, it has more hidden. The key is to find a car you like and want. Would not rule out finding a sweet oem turbo car or an n/a. Look for a soild shell. I live in Minnesota bought mine in Florida sight unseen. Yes I paid too much for it 10k and probobly worh 8 or 7. Up to about 18 now, ouch. I dont have piles of money but it was worth it to me. In Minnesota Z cars are Very Rare not like out in Cali where they seem to be everywhere. You guys have it made. Oh almost forgot. A V8 Z feels kickass! EDIT: Find an early model and avoid the possible future smog commies all together.

Yea I agree with VeritechZ a minimal retro Z would be hit indeed! But thanks to US goverment crash standards I can't see a new retroZ really ever being light enough to pull it off.

Yea I have a noise in my T56. Repair bills $ blah blah blah. It's driving me nuts! I am not giving up either.

I am using the MSA mounts.

Ya Awesome Hybrid vid Phil! Never saw how actually ms looks and works on a car.

Here is mine with the hookers and basic moroso 7qt pan. It clears just enough to get the drain plug out. I could take a width measurement on pan if interested. Brian

Cars looking good Mike!

Congrats Phil! How about a new video when she is ready?

I have kind of similar issues and have been listening. Great info! Bjhines, WAy cool vid! You make it look so fun and easy. Ok my car stock rears with 79-85 toyota fronts. 71 master very new. New booster 71. New check valve. No vac leaks anywhere Ok $50 willwood bias valve. But where is this new bias adjuster located exactly? On the front brake line between master and that big ole brake valve union under the hood? I know nothing about braking dynamics. And Thank you all for your vast experience. I love this place!

Maybe the loop cable is to keep the custom half shaft from seperating in two pieces at full droop when jacking... or river jumps. 700-800 HP myself would not trust and ditch those for a cv conver or good rebuilt oems. That's a lot of power your planning for.

sure ain't no woman drivin my car!"