Hugh

I own the Innovate LM1. It is awesome. I would reccomend it to anyone. You can output it to any gauge you like, even some cheapo Autometer if you want. It has two programmable outputs. I send one output signal to my Electromotive Tec3 for datalogging the air/fuel ratio. I send the second output to my Apexi Turbo timer because it has an O2 sensor voltage display. I then set the output voltage to read 1 volt at 10:1 A/F, and 2 volts at 20:1 A/F. This means my turbo timer will display with dead-on accuracy what the A/F is. I didn't have to add any more gauges in my situation... but if I had, I might just use some sort of simple digital voltage display like the one built into my little turbo timer. Otherwise, I'd get an autometer which is very innacurate, forgo the sensor and tie my output into that... then tweak the output until the display on the gauge reads exactly what it says on the box. My box rides quietly in the glove compartment, all the while telling the two other devices an accurate Air/Fuel ratio. I also have the Aux-2 cable with RPM sensing. I use this to tune other cars. It's not perfect on the RPM sense, but very close... definitely close enough for tuning within a hundred RPM or so. This cable is $100, but hooks up to all the existing sensors on a modern EFI car. I tune using RPM, boost, A/F, and throttle position with this device. Throttle position is the one thats not necessary... but it makes reading logs easier to see when the throttle is mashed and how good response is. I seriously stand behind this LM1. I don't work for the guy... but I do own one, as well as several of my friends. We all love it.

Same here... it looks like some race car rolling down on me.. I've gotten used to it since I started this thread.

I got some of that stuff from MSA. I really need to replace the speedometer grommet. (didn't put it in yet)

Most likely, one is for the ground. That would be black unless they were crazy when making the thing. The other three would be for unswitched power, switched, and probably the third is the dimmer for when you turn on the lights at night, it dims the brightness down a little. If you keep the ground grounded, you can play with the other three. Attempt putting power to each one alone, then if that don't work, try all three at once and remove one at a time. As you remove one, it should get brighter (there's your dimmer) another would turn it off... that should be your switched 12v. The last would make it reset each time, there's your constant 12v. I've never done this with that clock, but its worked on others.

The CA motor makes quite a bit less torque, though... and when comparably built alongside an SR20, it loses. I raced numerous CA19's in Japan, and they all had fully built motors with a lot more work under the hood... versus my internally stock SR and I was winning against 99% of them. Not to say the CA isn't capable, because it damn sure is. But the SR makes more power dollar for dollar, from stock to full tuned. I've never seen a block warp on an SR20DET. The cylinder walls are sleeved, so they don't melt down as some people imagine happens with an aluminum block. In fact, I can't think of a single reason why having an iron block would help the SR20DET... hell, the first things to go in the bottom end is the pistons, bearings, and rods. This includes the CA and SR motors. To put a CA to 400hp or higher requires building the entire motor. I did it with a stock SR.

If you're going with a standalone, then you just eliminated the MAF system on the SR20DET. (like I did) The valvetrain can be cheaply protected with a rocker stopper kit ($70-100) Or you can go solid lash (the hard way, but will be a bulletproof head to 9000rpm) The first thing to go then would be the bearings, just like any other nissan motor. The SR20DET also has a really good HP/Torque bias until you get over 400hp. Most any 4 banger over 400hp loses its HP/torque ratio, though. My last SR20DET made 395rwhp and 362ft/lbs with stock internals. (no cams)

The Disco Potato is a hyped up turbo that doesn't deliver the power for the money. The stock S15 or S14 Silvia turbos have dynoed at high power output with similar response, and for MUCH less money. A good turbo for what you're trying to do would be the Garrett GT2871R. It's about the same price as the Disco, but will make more power with great response. The Disco Potato is just too small for the money invested. When considering which motor to go with, also consider what you will need to add if you want to turbo the KA. You will need injectors, a computer, manifold, turbo, intercooler, etc... The stock SR20DET front clip will have all this stuff already. Of course the stock SR20DET fuel system can only support about 250-270hp safely, so reaching your goals will still require upgraded injectors and a Z32 MAF would be advisable on either engine. If you want to learn good technical stuff on both engine choices, go here: http://www.freshalloy.com and look at the basic and advanced 240sx forums. Some of the most powerful engines of both types are built by people on that forum. If you go there and ask which engine is better, you will start a ten page discussion on that point.

Is there any way to re-bias the supercharger for more high rpm power?

You should do the turbo 2.3 If you don't do that, then put in an L28 turbo motor. I'm so jaded by big turbo engines, I can't go back to NA. (I'm currently hating it)

Funny, the tach on my 240z with L28 won't read past 4000rpm, however it revs well past it. When I get to 4000, the tach needle studders and falls down to the 2000-3000 range. I have to read it in both directions to figure out where I'm revving to

Same here... I was saying What the hell is that? Then I noticed the rotisserie housings.

I'm having trouble telling for sure, but it seems like your actual torque peak is about even with your HP peak? Thats pretty unusual. When you say boost fell off, did you mean it fell off after the torque peak? You should've carried that torque into higher horsepower I would think. (as long as the boost held) Oh well, I haven't examined a lot of dyno sheets on these low-revving motors. Seems like it needs more top end flow.

Car looks great on the track. Take care of it!

Yeah, as soon as I looked at the rear shot, I thought.. gee, where did these extra couple feet of width come from?? I think the bumper is ugly, myself... but cool for doing it. Talk about unique. I never liked that bumper on the Porsche, so I'm biased. If you right click his photos and hit "View Image" then it will blow them up for you to full size. (crappy HTML work)

Yep, so something was riding... I thought so.

Nice. I want...

I'm about 40% of the way into my tail light project. I wanted to wait until I completed the first one to start posting pics... but lets just say I used over 100 LED's in just one housing. When I light it off, its freaking bright!

My ammeter rides dead because its broken. You don't need or want an ammeter.

I'm talking about the actual fusebox inside the car, the one with a dozen or so fuses in it. MSA made a modern type with blade style fuses.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/members/scottiegnz/vette-irs-swap.htm

In my experience in wasting many clutches, the flywheel side is the side that always takes the most abuse. Was your clutch adjusted properly? You have to ensure there is a tiny bit of freeplay in the pedal when your clutch is fully engaged. Sometimes people leave them taught, and the throwout bearing rides the pressure plate releasing a little bit of pressure and helping it slip a little. (seen this several times) It could also be from your driving methods. You don't ride the clutch, right? If these two things were ok... I'd say its time to look at a stronger clutch.

R230 into 240sx is very easy. The only problem is you have to swap all the input and output flanges, and bolting up the front two holes requires large washers to hold it in place.

That was a lot to take in. My last car had a 2000rpm power band, and my close-ratio transmission was perfectly geared for it. I would run from 5300 to 7300 in every gear. (power peaked at 7000) It was crazy fast with long gears and short gears in the back. However, I started beating the crap out of some higher powered cars that were comparable to mine but had longer gears. Another nice thing about shorter gears is less stress on the driveline off the launch and when shifting into second gear. My car definitely smoothed out the launch with the gear reduction of about 18%.

Link, please!