SUNNY Z

Thanks. The ones for sale locally are the the wider ones. Not sure its 100% what I want. I only have a 32" waist, but broad shoulders. I sat in them, and they were comfortable, but I've also sat in a regular width suzuka, and it was snug, but probably a better fit. Idk if its worth the hassle if its going to be that tight of a fit. ... ... What do you think, 1100 for the seats, side mounts, and sliders - seats are near perfect - worth it? If only there was anywhere in the midwest that was actually a decent dealer of seats so I could go sit in them..... So is the 280 any wider than the 240 in this regard? Also, if I buy them, anyone with an 05+ mustang need some cobra seat sliders?

Uh, mine does that, but it never really breaks the surface of the fluid....

Haha yeah, I was standing next to him when he took it. I love this color, the car got rained on last night and I didn't have a chance to wash it, and you can't really even tell! Good to see someone recognizing it!

I have the rare chance to buy some of these used, local. They are in pristine condition, and a pretty good deal. I know someone on here has ran them, but I can't find any specifics on mounting them. On the website, it says you can't buy just the sliders without the seats. Anyone have any idea?

You should definitely part it out. And sell me that R200. Seriously.

I remember seeing it too. However, I'm pretty sure it was in conjunction with fender vents. I wouldn't mind alleviating some heat either.

I'm in Des Moines! Which is "kinda" close. Well 6 hours.....

Has there been any forward progress on this? It wouldnt be that hard to have a custom axle shaft made, there are companies out there who do this stuff all the time (the driveshaft shop). The more issues I have with my axle shafts, the more I want to get rid of everything nissan back there altogether. I mean, if the S2000 guys can do it, SURELY we can. They DO drive hondas

How? The input speed to the diff will not change unless your transmission ratio changes. The only thing that will change is that your driveshaft might have more rpm at say, 60 mph, than it did at 60 mph with your numerically lower gears. If you're getting a vibration, I would look at the pinion angle of your diff, and the working angles of your driveshaft. That can cause a whole bundle of headaches.

I'm building a quadra-steer 280z. That way i can navigate my new apartment complex because its TIGHT! I need them to fit some brake hats, in all seriousness.

Haha yes indeed.

Well I'm in the market for some 240z front hubs again.... So bump.

Well as some of you know, I twisted one of the M2 axles, and am moving on to bigger and better things. So I just spent an hour on the phone with the Driveshaft Shop. AWESOME people over there. Really know their stuff. We found a solution that should be pretty darn strong, and support around 700 wheel, while still using the Z31 turbo CV joints (some inner parts different), and R200 I'll keep this updated as things progress.

... If you'd read, I wasn't the one driving it. The slave cylinding gave out while my friend was driving it, about 20 miles away. Turns out that the starter wasn't bad after all. It was a bolt issue. The guy i bought the original motor from had put the starter in with new ARP bolts. Well he used SBC bolts and not LSx bolts.... . I didn't know this until yesterday when i found my starter nearly dangling by a few threads on one bolt. I re-tapped the bolt holes for the CORRECT bolts, and ended up making some from bolts bought at the local hardware store. Crisis Averted. So we celebrated. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Sc5cyQHCgMg This is part of a 35 minute session. So much fun

Basically just a little FYI. Don't start your ls1 z car in gear if your clutch wont disengage. Have someone pull you and bump start it if at all possible. Reason being; it eats starters. Mine was started in gear 4 times, and the starter took a dump (what are friends for). So thats a $150 oops. Just thought I'd share

I hate to be the bad news bear, but rawr. I took the axles apart to put new CV boots on, and found this. Both ends.... This was the passenger side. 275 street tires, on the street..... ALSO, the driver's side axle (stock Z31T) was completely fine. Splines had NO issues on either end...... On the next "unbreakable" solution i guess.

I'm also very curious. I've tried using regular washers (measured with a micrometer) and matched, but it seems they crush differently. Where can you get ~9mm spacer, because my brakes feel quite sketchy (warped rotor feel), and I'd really like to correct it.

This is what you need. Be careful in installing the ends though. Use a razor blade to cut the old boot off. MSD part #3301

This thread makes my head hurt. Yes stock LT1 cars are turds. Do some reading on "quick spool valves" or "zombie spool valve" with a properly sized turbo with a split exhaust housing, you will experience VERY little lag. That being said, the engine bays on these cars are plenty spacious for a front mount. Possibly thing about customizing your engine mounts to gain more room. With a remote mount, you will experience lower IAT s, all other factors being the same. The actual design of the system (primary tube size, hot side size, charge pipe size) is the critical piece of information you need to figure out.

You can't use them. You either need to have the notch in the heads filled, and have the heads decked, or you could use the graphite gaskets. Those are your options.

Build is looking good. I also like the mounts. Nice job there.

Cut it off and solder a wire / weatherpack connector or it? Thats my advice for this situation.

I put the remote bleeder in the engine bay, and have an assistant. That way the bubbles make their way up. Almost every t56 clutch i've ever had to put in had air in the master cylinder though. You'll need a mighty-vac (available at most parts stores for around $30) put that in the hole in your reservoir, pump it up, and all the air will come out of your master cylinder. Always had great luck with this.

In for pics of Kirkeys.