BluDestiny

thezstore.com got mine and had them for a few years. Good quality

There is no adjustability in the rear suspension of a 280zx, most effects are induced from incorrect suspension geometry (bent mounting points) or worn suspension items, such as bushings, shocks, or cut springs or something. Worst case scenario your frame is bent. I would get at some point after checking all the suspension items and failing t find a problem, get it on a frame rack. Do you have any suspension upgrades?

That's what I was saying, there is a lot of positive toe on the rear left wheel, that needs to be corrected, it can be from either worn wheel bearing, bad bushings, or a bent mounting point. A good alignment shop should be able to tell you which it is.

That toe on the left tire. It looks like almost half a degree of positive toe is pushing you in. Have you noticed that tire wear out faster than your other tires?

I've thought about a shortnose r200 out of a 240sx. The front and rear mounting are similar to the r230. You will need to really modify the rear subframe to mount it, create and attach a bar for the cover mount points, have your driveshaft extended and more than likely have custom cv axles made. I don't know why you would need an r230 though, an r200 should hold up to damn near anything.

Yeah I would get it back to stock wiring. That is the first step. As for the gas smell, if you don't notice any detrimental effects then I wouldn't worry, I was not trying to tell you that your engine needs to be rebuilt. Run it to the ground. Now if you get an A/F gauge in and find your basically rich all the time, then I would look into it.

This is an intense write up. Another reason to send them off would be to get them flow tested. RC engineering in CA does it automatically with a comparison of before and after cleaning, and they have a 1 day turnaround. Witchhunter is a bit cheaper though and I've heard many good things about them. I may send my next set to be cleaned to them.

Do you have the axles for it? I'm sure there are write ups

The tail is a zxr tail. Looks to be real, but check if its urethane. If it is its pretty rare, but that doesn't mean its a zxr. The paint scheme looks like its just regular black with a dealer pinstripe and some gold buckets. Its also a hard top coupe with is nice, and it has power options. If it runs id say that's a very good price.

How are they mounted? Are they ones that slip in the rear window seal or to the hatch metal with latches?

It should be a direct swap. Regarding the gas smell in the crankcase you may be pouring too much gas in and/or your rings are going out. If it has more than 100k miles then I would bet on that.

Troy Armish Racing in Freemont, California. (510-252-1001). If you can't find anyone local, at least you know shipping won't be terribly bad. And I'd rather have it done right.

You can totally service these diffs, but in your case it may be easier to just find a 4.11 ratio diff out of a 720 4x4. That's what I did.

Why don't you just go standalone? Like a haltech or something. Are you just using a safcII with the stock ecu and turned up boost?

I'm assuming he has some experience with the SU's since they were on the car, although he didn't specify if they were running or not.

Seattlejester, so the chassis side fitting for an S30 is the same as a s13 240sx? because if it is, then any ss braided line kit for an s13 will work.

Wiring specialties should carry new plugs for JECS nissan ecu's. There was a thread similar to this on zilvia today.

Tuning it on the SU's then on the triples will be a pain in the ass. If you can I would go straight to the triples and become an expert on them. If you're getting a port and polish, get it flow tested also, and then you can call isky and give him all the specs of your engine and he will grind you a cam for your engine. Just buy some decent 6-1 headers, you're probbaly not shooting for 250-300hp NA, just something fun and loud. Read up on ignition, read up on triples, and update your location. What did you mean when you said you only speak english?

No, especially no in California.

Tire sidewall construction is like one of the most important factors in how the car handles bumps. For your case I would also go with some oem shocks, kyb's or something if they make them, and some springs that are a little stiffer. If you want a soft ride, buy some all season falkens or something with a large sidewall.

Ok so what I'm getting is that if the PC680 and deka etx30l work, then the ballistic definately will as it has more amps than either of those. I believe it is worth the extra $100-150 to have a 3lb battery than the 15-20 odyssey or deka.

Do'h I saw that yesterday too.

Protip: when posting photobucket picsture, delete the redirect to photobucket and keep just the IMG portion. Makes it easier for browsing. Looks like a good projects. I would have gone straight to disc brakes in the rear, as they couldn't have been much more expensive than the cost of decent pads and drums. Also I want to see how the plastidip turns out. do you plan on keeping the stock efi, or going straight to carbs to simplify the clutter?

Keep it for the nephew. Its probably in the area of maybe $4-5k because its auto and non turbo.

The batteries I listed were half the price of the ones in the thread, and the comparable braille batteries I found (quick scan of their website) are also much higher than the $250 for the ballistic EVO2 16 cell from amazon. Braille was the first place I looked, and my friend has been running a braille in his GTR for going on 2 years now.