BluDestiny

S14kouki10, if you mean ss braided all the way back, certain sanctioning bodies do not allow that. I think drag racing (like competition status) require hard lines from I believe the firewall back to a certain spot.

The key is the welding. If done like crap, then you risk ripping out the strut tops. Changing the camber extremely will put different stress than designed for on the stock mounting areas.

Welding a nut on would be the easiest if you have access to a welder.

I would go the same all around, simply so I could rotate tires, especially if its more of a street car than anything, which sounds like what you're doing.

I have a baseline for my 260z, it had an L26 and put out 145 to the hubs with SU carbs. So yes this is very achievable.

The radiator cooler is in the stock radiator. You can just disconnect the hosed and cap them at the radiator so crap doesn't get into it. And no you should not get an older dizzy. You can wire your dizzy to work. I'm not positive on the wiring, but it is around this site. The FSM is a good way to start seeing what will still be connected when you rip out the ECU and ECU harness, and the dizzy is one of the things that won't be connected.

Are you still using the Rota RBR's? They clear no problem? Any plans for the rear?

Premium is like 100 or 150 miles.That's what I have.

Just head to Home depot and buy some aluminum bar and some bolts. You can bend it with a hammer and drill some holes in it. Mount it with some bolts.

No problem on the rear, may hit spring perch on the front. Probably not though.

Literally just what John C said. I had my engine rebuilt to pretty much stock specs since I got my ZX with a spun bearing. Only thing other from stock was 1mm oversized pistons and a thinner metal head gasket. Other than that, it was stock EFI, cleaned injectors, I went through the wiring with a metal brush, and replaced servicable components (dizy cap and rotor, plugs, sensors etc.) I removed the fan from the engine and ran two electric fans with a shroud. I had a fidanza flywheel. Cleaned redid all the rubber fuel lines (went SS in the engine bay). I've had 3 other people with NA ZX's drive mine and they said it pulled like crazy and didn't break up like there's did. Well they had 150k motors covered in oil with duct taped vacuum leaks. Other than that it was lighter than their ZX's also. I don't think you'll beat that civic unless he has a passenger and your car is stripped to the bone. Try and get a higher ratio diff if you want to accelerate faster. Try reading through my build thread to get an idea of what I did to my Z pre turbo.

You also need to consider springs. Supposedly 80-90% of springs out there aren't linear and just have plain bad quality. Swift and hyperco springs are supposed to be the best. In case you haven't read this: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/157535-swift-springs-dynoed.html

I hate it when people say it ran when parked xx years ago.

Why can't you pull it out and measure it?

You can contact an admin and a link him to the thread you want to delete. Generally the reason this isn't a function, and why the threads can't be edited after a certain amount of time, is because people can still learn from them. Especially in for sale threads, you can see the going price of parts is and similarly price out your stuff.

Remove the glove box to get to the center gauges from behind, The tack and speedo and a bit harder. First time I did it, I removed the whole dash, which wasn't bad, but did take a whole day.

So you just don't want a rear window at all? well it's going to be noisy, smelly, and you'll probably look over your shoulder at wherever you park the car when you run in to grab something. Drag is almost irrelevant because the hatch area is a low pressure zone and the s30 is a brick anyway.

feal is defiantly a quality company. Not saying they are the best, but they do know what they are doing. Most people I know either go through them or Fortune auto, when they want to rebuild stuff. Serb, You have a 280, which has longer rear strut tubes. If you're looking for the length at which to section the tubes, I'm sure it's in the strut section FAQ.

wow that car got totally wrecked. ok so how do you know it needs motor mounts? does it shake violently? becuase when I first bought my 240sx, the guy said it needed motor mounts, turned out one of the injectors wasn't firing and it was running on 3 injectors. Absolutely nothing to do with motor mounts. Stuff on it is bent, that should already be a no no. You can find straight Z's for less than what he's asking. Shift fork loose? c'mon, you can pop it into place right then and there, the tranny is probably F****d from when the turbo was on the motor and it was making a ton on HP. Guy probably drove it like a jackass. Most drive train parts are interchangeable, but I would stay away from that car period. Unless it was free. It bent, engine doesn't run, and the tranny is on it's way out, back fee's etc....

Mightymaxx, why don't you just use koni shocks and ground control sleeves in the stock 280z tubes? It sounds like that's what you plan on doing with the megans, so why would you redo that twice?

On my s13 coilovers, the lower mount was like 5-6", and I kept about a 1" length of the original strut tube that I pressed the threaded tube onto. You don't need a whole lot because s13 coilovers are already much shorter that stock suspension.

This is probably better fit to the v8 forums, but I know header clearance is tight already, and the stupid box can't be helping.

No, just rebuild the head to get it running. Purepontiackid drifted on a stock L28 for awhile before it started leaking everywhere. I'd get another block as a spare, but a stock L will take you a long way.

Another easy check is to just spray carb cleaner at anything you think may have cracked when you removed it. If there is a leak, the carb cleaner will cause the engine to idle up.

I'd run stock springs with kyb's, and start gathering parts for coilovers with koni's