BluDestiny

It took a big ass air gun to get it off. take the trailing arm off and bring it to a shop.

Call Jim Wolf. They would know the answer.

I didn't even think that would run on the stock EFI. When I asked MSA they only recommended up to The stage 2 Cam for a stock EFI car. They said stage 3 wouldn't run. If it runs though, run it to the ground. When its goes out you should have your spare ready.

He just used the defroster vents and put in hair driers straight into the V shaped vents. They are activated by a switch I'm guessing. Got rid of all the crap and vent lines under the dash.

Bump

No without me. If you're gonna remove the carpet, I don't think you want to look at jute and tar crap. Might as well get rid of that stuff also, sand every thinng down and repaint the interior a nice color. I did that with my 280zx. It was a chore.

My 260z came with it when I bought it and my 280zx had it stock. I swapped the flywheel/clutch in my 260z when I burned up the clutch. I swapped the flywheel/clutch into my 280zx when I pulled the motor out to rebuild. It was a 2+2 so it already had the 240mm stuff. So I never swapped in a tranny, just removed and replaced worn clutches. Did the flywheel at the same time.

How much lighter are R180 diffs from r200s? I'm guessing like 20 lbs? Also what JohnC said for the tires, my diamond racing wheels weigh a total of 200lbs. But I have a set of 15's with 205 tires on them and they weigh 120-130lbs. Makes a huge difference. edit: jumped the gun, found this post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?21701-Weight-of-R180

It can't be that hard. my 260z weighed 2560lbs and it had AC, comfy seats, spare tire and all. FG hood, FG hatch with Lexan. FG door skins if you're crazy. Do you know what you're at now? AC system probably weighs 60lbs, and both bumpers combined probably weigh 80lbs.

I did not measure the thickness of the fidanza, but I didn't have an issue in either of my cars. Both my cars had a 5 speed swap from a late 280zx in them already and I just reused the collars. You can use a 225mm clutch on a 240mm flywheel becasue it just wont contact that extra 15mm. The 240mm pressure plate is heavier than the 225mm one so you'll save some rotating mass and may get better response. If your gonna up the boost, go with the overkill. Just don't expect to have fun on the streets or in traffic. I used this guys rule of thumb( in the clutch section): http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm

I'm using a duralast red crap. Needed it quick and I had money on my autozone card. My previous one lasted 3-4 years and then I sold it.

I used the Fidanza flywheel in both my cars, I love it and didn't really have any issues. Only thing is that only 6 of the pressure plate bolts line up, not all 9. As for clutches, I use a Exedy Stage 1 (240mm) in my 280zx. It feels very good, doesn't slip( I'm still NA and not really making more than stock hp), and isn't stiff or harsh to engage. On the other side I used a spec stage 3 6puck (240mm) with my high comp, big cam weber'd 260z. It was very harsh and had no room for engagement. It was either engaged or not. I stalled a lot when I first put it in. I was ok with it since I didn't really drive the car except on weekends. I would kill myself if it was my daily. Go fidanza for the flywheel, you won't regret it. As for the clutch, I would recommend either company since both those clutches were awesome. I think Spec is a little cheaper though. Go with the 225mm clutch for a faster response/feel (less overall rotating mass) and if you really aren't using the car as a DD get a stage 3. You may up the boost at some point so go with the overkill.

The only thing I noticed when I deleted my air regulator is that when the engine is cold it wont idle up, it will idle at like 500rpm. IF I try to drive it for the first 20ish seconds it will try to die every time I let off the gas. Not a problem so much anymore since I start it then run in to grab my backpack and stuff. Here is a pick of my shaved manifold. Yours would be the same just with an EGR that you want to block off I'm guessing. compared to stock:

Super duper awesome news. I just got back from my first SCCA autocross event here in FL. IT was a lot of fun and I drove out with turbohls30. Since it was my first time I ran in the novice class. I got first place for novices, but there wasn't much competition(only 4 other novices, second place was a honda fit). I had one setback, after the second run with an instructor, one of the cheap heater hose blockoffs popped, the one coming off my thermostat housing. thanks to some awesome racers that had a trailer, I got some hose, a bolt and a few clamps and got it running in a 15 min. Turbo was supposed to be taking pictures but he couldn't really get near the track. Here are a few pics. No vids sorry, Next time I'll try to have a go pro. Talked to an instructor, and because of the suspension modifications, if I move up to class racing, I would be competing with S2000 and evo's and STI's. So I'm pretty much doing this for fun.

Lol prices here in FL are sooooooo wrong. There are "restored" cars going to ludacris amounts of money. I bought my first Z when I was 17 for $5000 and I had no trouble with at all. IT was a perfect daily and even had AC. If you have the time, I would look for Z's in CA or AZ for $3-4k, then either pay to have it shipped or fly out there and drive it yourself. You can always ask a member on here to check out a Z for you. As for what to look for it is covered on this site. -no rust -completely working electrical -no overheating Someone told me once that if a Z will run and drive for 30min on the highway/street it will make it cross country.

What offset rims do you have? You should not have any trouble fitting that.... you are changing the HEIGHT of the tire(and not even that much), not the width. Don't do it like this:

Pics way too big. Can't see anything. edit: here are some pics of 280zx hubs

Simple, just disconnect the AC, and yank all associated hardlines from your engine bay. both my lines had a crack in them and didn't even have any r12 in them anyway. For what its work I weighed the condenser, compressor and hard lines and it came out to like 50-60lbs. I have yet to take anything out from under the dash though.

I roll my fenders with bats and jackstands. My paint sucks though.

Thats way too overpriced. I bought an aeromotive one from ebay for $100ish It was pretty much this one, but I found it cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aeromotive-13109-A1000-6-Injected-Bypass-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Adjustable-PSI-/330674402209?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfdbaf3a1#ht_4847wt_1110 It was hard for me to go to SS braided lines since it was my first time flaring the stock fuel lines( not fun btw) Price breakdown bought a liquid filled gauge for $25 bought a -6 fuel filter for $25 had like 4 ft of SS lines make in -8 and -6 $50ish spent like $100 on a bunch of fittings for the fuel rail and SS lines and FPR Couple of reasons why I went with an aftermarket FPR is: 1. I sold my stock fuel rail to my friend to get his car running 2. I wanted to clean up my bay and use a fuel rail similar to pallnets ( cockerstar made mine) 3. I plan to run boost later and this will only make tuning easier ( after I get a wideband sensor)

You mean the cable attachment that can open the windows from the front seats right? I had them on my parts car a year ago and trashed them

You can ask pallnet for a fuel rail. Is this is a stock motor? I remember seeing a yellow 280Z at Sunrise Z that had a 3.1 stroker in it an 11:1 comp. He was running EDIS and Megasquirt and a Lonewolf intake. Made 270ish to the wheels I think and he was running supra injectors. What exactly have you done to your engine that makes you think you need bigger injectors? we need cam specs. If its the stage 2 that msa sells you can use stock injectors with it.

That's a very reasonable price. Count me in

Yasin, would it be possible to take a full side profile pic? I'm just not getting a clear pic of what the angle is. I feel like its a little too vertical.

Looks good, but I still like my whale tail. I think the curve is just from a bad mold maybe? email a pic to MSA and see what they say.