BluDestiny

I sold my stock su's for $200. It was complete volt on and go. They were rebuilt by the PO like a year before I got them. They ran perfect. This was 2 years ago.

Your front actually looks like a modded Kaminari front. Its the only I've seen that keeps the stock bumpers and sticks out that much. That is Purepontiackids car. He also found matching Kaminari sideskirts in a junkyard

That Z looks like he modified it to drift. Zero is right about the steering angle, my 260z could never get that angle.

You probably could use the stock one, but might as well go aftermarket. I bought the FPR separately. I wouldn't have had nearly the amount of money to get it together without selling my 260z. And it's still not painted. Got the fuel rail from cockerstar, but pallnet also makes them. Cost of redoing my fuel system: $150 for rail and rail fittins $120 for the FPR $60 in misc AN fittings $50 for the SS line $25 for an AN fuel filter so like $400ish. If you stick with just rubber lines you can save about $100 in fittings and cost of the line.

I hope your not doing a straight trade since your probably getting robbed, although I don't know the condition of your SC300. Pics and estimated value of your car would help, but I'm pretty sure you are on the short end of the stick. Well running s30's can be had for the 4-5k range, a little higher on the east coast. Also no way in hell it has 59k miles. it probably rolled over once or twice. Smoking means rings are not sealing, so its burning oil. Ask him to do a compression test. even so it can run like that for a while. I would get a spare block ready though or plan on swapping in another engine( v8, rb, sr, 1j, 2j etc) I find all the big parts ( body panels, diffs, tranny, engine blocks, carbs) on forums like this.

16x8 has a ton of options. My rear 16x10's do not. You could very easily have a good track/street setup with 16x8's. I actually picked up a set of 15" swastikas just so I can run some lighter weight for autox days. PPK I'm jealous. Need my stub axles!!!!

I don't think it has a dual cam.....you mean L28et. What exactly are your intentions for the car? Not lose money while you drive it is almost impossible, unless you have like 3 Z's that you can alternate between. These are 40 yr old cars, stuff breaks, rust happens, you want to mod etc... I would only buy a modded one if it looked electrically sound and ran like a top for more than 4 hours with starting and stopping, quick runs to the 7-11 across town, stayed cool at long stop lights etc. I'd rather have as close to an unmolested one as I could though, as long as the body and electrical are good.

You're gonna need to cut your fenders and run flares.

sounds like you need the FSM http://xenons130.com/ Also you should check peoples build threads out to get an idea of what it should look like.

If you are really tight on money get these. They are cheap and can get them any backspacing you want. But these wheels are heavy. I would probably opt for some xxr or sportmax in 16x8 just because they are probably lighter. I'm running 16x8 front with 4 inches of backspacing and 16x10 rear with 5.5 inches of backspacing.

My vote is for the Mazda 3speed. Its very peppy. Scion xb has a ton of space for hauling. My friend has one and we would load it up with our extra set of tires for track days. You could probably find a good used BMW or Audi hatch for that price as well.

Definitely a one off. Here are some pics. You can see that it was re-drilled to fit the 115mm ring gear. Holes were filled.

Ahhhhh yeahhhh keep it up.

I actually found a cam and pawl locker that was being used in Some Datsun for racing. It was at a machine shop and they guy asked me if I wanted it. The PO just left it and never picked it up. I got it for $250. I brought it to JohnC to have him check it out and he had some of the extra Subie half shafts laying around and we test fit one of them in. I fits the 115mm ring gear also.

Not to derail the thread but has anyone here used a cam and pawl type differential? from what I've read on it it locks when its doing anything were the two wheels aren't going the same speed and direction. In which case it is almost like a welded/spool diff. Or am I just not getting/reading enough? I know its old tech and they wear out etc.

Get proper sized wheels. Since I don't think your gonna like looking at some 14"s all the time. Plus that gives you room for a brake upgrade. 16x8 is a good size to start at and everyone makes em.

Yeah unless you do have the money to modify it I would stick with s30. It will be more fun in the long run.

A low pressure pump. I would pretty much do the maintenance part of what you said (new fuel filter, lines) then move to the injectors/rail, then move to the AFM. I would rather replace that stuff anyway with known good components (place a wanted add up). Its not that hard to change the afm and fuel rail/lines, but changing the whole intake will be a pain if you've never dealt with it before. Also I think it would be about the same in price. A good set of rebuilt SU's with intake can go for $250-$300.

why would you do that to stock wheels?

IF you have the elephant ear calipers, they won't fit. The 280zx had 2 styles of rear breaks. Really *** early ones that look like elephant ears, and they have the caliper bolt holes sorta close together, and then later model ones where the caliper bolt holes are farther apart. If your trailing arm is the later style and doesn't have the *** elephant ear calipers then they will fit. Not sure of the piston size. I think they actually might be the same. Also I'm only talking about the bolt pattern, I have no idea of the offset of the caliper and if the Ebrake function will work.

Not the person I was talking about, but here is another using SU's closing in on 200hp. I'm talking about Scott B. Comments have what he was running. This guys head was ported, but the SU's clearly allow enough air flow if the head can flow it. When I say other guys I'm talking about people slapping together a webber setup, a big cam and mess with the timing till it runs "good" as they say. General assumption so you got me there, although there are plenty of MSA dyno vids showing a weber setups making disappointing numbers I'm actually not sure if Scott is a member on this site. This is what a completely stock engine with a set of triples put down. Sorry to use your vid black240z, And this was when one of his carbs had a bent throttle plate. There is also a video on youtube of someone with a stroker that has webers making 180hp

He needs an R200 that can accept pop in Half shafts, not CV shafts.

You could just cut them the proper length and use a file to debur it. You don't really care about the the first couple of threads as long as it threads in a decent amount. I did the same thing with bolts that got mushroomed a little. Just file down the mushroomed end at say a 45ish angle and thread it in past that. Those where bolts that didn't even depend on those threads.

yes

F54 flattop with a p79 is not 9:1 its more like 8.5 to 1. Which is a stock motor. You'd want to use en earlier cam if available to have a better powerband. Blue your assumption is wrong about the Dual SU's. They provide more than enough air. At the MSA show a few years back the one guy who was running tuned SU's put down more power than 90% of the guys with Triple webers. He made 197 to the wheels while most the guys with high comp cam'd webers were doing 170-180hp. He had a stock motor with a big cam.