BluDestiny

I will as soon as the fuel problem is sorted out. It wont hold idle and its running stupidly rich.

Now the suspension, the part I spent the most money on. Here is a quick breakdown of parts and prices for the do-it-yourselfer. Kei office Coilovers $550 Rear custom top hats that use the stock bolt pattern, $200 for the pair Techno toy tuning front TC rods $200 TTT bumpsteer spacers $80 New steering rack boots and tie rods $60ish New steering rack bushings $50 from fleabay New urethane bushing for the front and rear control arms, $80ish from MSA s13 solid subframe bushings $70 from fleabay, and $30 to have them turned down to fit ( suggested from Purepontiackid) New wheel bearing and studs all around $100ish Sandblasting all the subframe and suspension components $80 Powdercoating was $350 Reassembly and installation of bearing and studs etc was $200 Junkyard 4.11 diff x2 $140 Locking diff center $250 Can't think of anything else so that brings the total to $2440 give or take a few things. Damn that hurts me too. Here are pics of the coilovers when I was testing the lengths and chopping things off. The middles is the stock tube, the left is fitting on the coilover sleeve, and the right is a tokico shock and spring set up, you can see its much longer ( like a few inches) but I figured when its loaded it should be about the same. Here is what I chopped off the sleeve Here is the front control arms, TC rods and the brackets. I actually put zerk grease fittings where all the urethane bushings are at the suggestion of a friend. Front crossmember Fronts after welding and powdercoating Hubs were just painted with a krylon engine enamel silver putting the coilovers on One of the rear arms And here is the rear subframe: I decided to stick with an R180 since I had actaully found a locking Diff at the machine shop where I get all the work done, unfortunatly I have to wait till JohnC can make another set of halfshafts/stubaxles or whatever before I install it. I got a nice 4.11 diff from a 720 pickup, used that to test fit the diff, then I had to go out and find another 4.11 diff, which it whats in the car now. So I have an open 4.11 in there now, and I have an super LSD 4.11 on the shelf for when I can get those half shafts.

Ok so for those who don't know I crashed my awesome 2+2. The build thread for it can be seen here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/92033-fixing-up-the-family-whip-s130-22/ Trashed in in July of 2011 and about 2 weeks later I picked up this gem: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100696-base-model-280zx/ I picked this beauty up for $1500, drove it home with expired tags, got pulled over and let off because the cop thought the car was cool, and began attacking it. I stripped it and sold the hood, seats, some interior pieces, engine and miscellaneous knickknacks for a total of just under $600, so it I really only payed about $1000 to buy and register it. If you're too lazy to click the thread here are pictures of it when I got it: Here were the visible rust spots: Luckily the majority of the rust was on replaceable parts, I'll get to that later. It has no power anything, and it only has one mirror which I thought was weird. No rear wiper, and it doesn't even have the warning display. Most of the sensors for that system aren't in the car. I'm going to be driving it stripped down, with only the dash and center console and 2 bucket seats in it. Can't wait to weigh it. So the original lip was beat to all hell so that was the first thing I trashed. Then I began parting it out. traded some stuff and sold some stuff(see above). Then I parked it for about 4 months while I began swapping what I could over, removing what I wasn't going to use, and just cleaning up the car. I swapped out the rear hatch since water was getting into it and it was rusted, swapped out the driver side fender with a red one, and put a Turbo style hood on. Also got some type 2 MSA sideskirts and put them on. The biggest project I had to deal with was the suspension. on my 2+2 I had adapted s13 rear suspension using a custom made tophat. I had to get a pair of the same coilover brand for the fronts, (kei office for those who care/know the brand) and chop the front strut tubes off and weld on the sleeves similar to what Mightymaxx did. But I'll have a whole post about the suspension later. Nothing really got done for a while since I had all the suspension out, got it sandblasted and dropped it off with my friend to disassemble and powdercoat what he could. That process took like 2-3 months since he worked on it on and off, but it only cost me $350 for the powdercoating and putting things together. Not bad. While that was being taken care off I was gathering parts, I had stripped the engine bay and painted it black, and really just selling a bunch of crap. Don't have a pic of the bay empty and painted but here is one with the engine and rad in Here is the engine that went in and pics the night we put it in. Fuel rail cortesy of cockerstar, I actually ended up using AN fittings since I had to run a new FPR Here is a pic of when I stripped the sound deadening using my trusty $2 dollar plastic scraper. It ended up breaking from the cold. Custom SS clutch line like a boss Figured I might as well since I had SS brake lines. Got some body parts to put on, yes its a real one, urethane. And this is it this Monday getting aligned at the closet shop I could find, it really needs a true alignment and corner weighting because of the coilovers. Putting the HKS Hi power on, from my 2+2, luckily all it needed was to be shortened. The rear half fit perfectly over the subframe. For those who don't know, I bought an s13 hi power that was already chopped off for like $100 and got 2.5in piping with no car on my 2+2. That was adapted to the stock exhaust flange, so I had to chop that off since I got some nice coated headers. Had it done here, these guys are awesome. They were working on this on the side. Its an built LSx powered dune buggy, fully custom frame and suspension that cost more than an new car. Right now as it sits, before heading to a body shop to have the Gnose, and wing put on. I wish I had a better picture of the underside because it is perfect. The crimp welds aren't effed up and the rails aren't beat like a hooker. I'll get one when it gets up on a rack again.

You will need a donor block if you are going to replace the crank, and a donor head to switch it all to mechanical. You may as well buy a stroker crank and just look for a p90 head with mechanical lifters. I got my head for $100 and cranks go for like $400 for a stroker and $50-100 for a stock one in the for sale section. If money isn't a concern then I would definaly go ARP head and rod bolts and Clevite bearing and some nice forged pistons

I was making that HP with a 2.8....just saying. I had a big cam, webers and a header and 10:1 compression. I ran 91 all day. You're going to about triple the price of that motor with the machining and parts for not a lot of gain. Maybe if your future plans are to go all out on it, but if you only want to keep it as a street motor then don't bother.

I was running that combo on my 260z with Triple webers and 91 and a far bigger cam. I had no detonation issues. I would try and have your cam reground just a little more aggressive to really liven things up.

Yeah that's true, when I was checking out the CL adds in FL every clean bodied Z was going for what would have been a ridiculous amounts here in CA. There are actuall a few s130's here in LA that are going for way to much (read 6k+). Maybe Ebay is a better choice.

The engine being bum is the biggest problem. I wouldn't pay more than a grand for it depending on how well all the electrical works and if I was looking for something as a daily driver. But who knows, if you put it up on craigslist for $2000 you might get lucky

I actually just picked up another Gnose for a friend from Justin at zforce. Good quality for the price, and he also has like 5 sets of flares sitting in his garage.

It looks...interesting. The front is really dated and the bumper doesn't match the rest of the car. Maybe with a more modern looking front airdam if would work.

just search showcars on this forum. They don't have the best rep...

Holy cow thanks Tony, I was about to pull the ECU out of mine and check the number. That makes sense if they put in federal stuff and didn't get the O2 sensor bung. It does not have any connectors for an IAC or even the cold start injector. It does have a clip going into the bottom of the throttle body that my s130 doesn't have, the bcdd I think is what the haynes says.. Currently I'm doing the "swap in an 02 sensor" manifold to see how it will run. edit: is the IAC the thing under the throttle body? I may have been thinking of the Auxiliary air valve

getoffmyinternet, this is the same car. Yuta's lowered to all hell Z from motormavens. Just with different rims. And if motor sports were left to the hipsters, cars would fall apart, people would die and the world would be a horrible place.

So you have a stock e31 head? It should be fine if you just put them on. You may need to mess with the idle a bit because it was set to idle with a "hotter" cam and you have a stock one. You don't need to yank your motor out. Just run a 2.5in exhaust. I would recommend upgrading your dizzy to an electronic one from a 280zx before putting in the 6al unit. I believe that there are wiring diagrams online for how it should be wired up, maybe even on the Mallory site. If not call them, or ask the guy you bought it from.

The ones that were on my old 260z. Focus espirit 15x7 0 offset. They're up for sale and I'm trying to convince my friend to buy them off me.

So this is what I've been working on. My friend picked this up from sand diego, non running. I had to swap in a new fuel rail and fuel pump and she started up. After hooning around the block a few times in a right hand drive car I proceeded to do fluids, replace vacuum lines, replace rubber hoses and belts etc. Story behind it is it was brought in to New jersey, but the guy who had it imported never registered it. The guy we bought it from had it shipped to SoCal but he never registered it either. so it has a NJ title. We just ripped out the interior because it smelled like a rat had pooped everywhere( there was so much rat poo on the intake). Just made him pick up a crane ignition coil and some new plug wires that are about to go in. I just chopped off the exhaust right behind the cat. It spewed out a pile of rust flakes right after and actually ran much better. It has the crappy black box power steering, but its not really a problem since its right hand drive. It also has rust on both frame rails( pretty bad for the passanger side), the fenders, hatch, hood and everywhere else. Anyway, There is a port IN the cat, I was thinking it was exhaust gas temp since there is a light on the gauge cluster for it, but there is no O2 port anywhere. The O2 sensor plug is just hanging as pictured. Since the egr is plugged anyway, I'm swapping in a spare P82 non egr intake with a non EGR stock cast header that has an O2 sensor. Hoping this will make it run right. I'm sure that the ECU's are no different( USDM vs JDM). Wondering is there are any major differences from a USDM model. I think that a USDM motor set was swapped in (it did come with an L28 from Japan, may have been swapped while it was in Jersey), hence all the crap wiring and blocked ports. It is also a wiring nightmare in the Engine bay. This thing needs a lot of work...

I really like that front. I'm sure the rear will compliment it. Can't wait to see it finished

Hmm My sensor was always just red, and I removed that sensor.

L28 with dished pistons and the e31 head should be fine in stock form. With the cam and flattops I don't know.

Yeah that needs to be cut out and replaced with metal, and its probably worse under the windshield.

Well the cold start injector is for cold weather, and you live in CO. I would keep it. Bunch of people make aftermarket fuel rails. Pallnet, a member here, has a thread in the vendor forum I believe. This is my engine on the stand right now. Shaved n42 intake with only the brake booster and the charcoal canister vacuum lines. Blocked off the other ones with screws just in case I might need them for something. Blocked off the Auxillary air valve and the cold start injector. Fuel rail that I need to actually get AN fittings for the ends. I have my o2 sensor located on the Ypipe that joins the 2 headers. PVC line, and the crank case line. Eventually gonna get a catch can. Also remove you're cruise control and anything associated with it if it doesn't work. Or if you never use it.

Calvin, the turbo clutch/flywheel is the same as a 2+2 clutch flywheel. 240mm grip surface. the coupes has 225mm. -If it's 225mm wide then you have a coupe version which uses a 550lb pressure-plate. - If it's 240mm wide then you have a 2+2/turbo version with a 780lb plate and a wider disc. - Flywheels are identical in diameter and weight at 23 lbs (only the contact area is wider). Unless you're racing you can usually get by with an OEM style clutch because the 240Z is so light...I have been autocrossing and dragracing for years with an OEM with no issues. But this year when I added my triple Webers the clutch began to slip when the engine hit its torque peak. I decided it was time to upgrade and installed a standard Centerforce II. The Centerforce fits perfectly and will actually chirp into 3rd gear on shifting. Pedal feel is excellent and engages smoothly. - A Zcar 5-speed will fit on any year Z block and any year L28 clutch can be used. But the throwout bearing "collar" must match the style of the flywheel (coupe or 2+2). In other words, if you have a 2+2 flywheel, you need to change the throwout collar to a 2+2 version. A coupe flywheel uses a coupe collar. ^^^posted from datsunzgarage.com

You should start by getting a fuel rail. That clears up half the spaghetti. If you get rid of the cold start I believe a bit of the vacuum lines and water lines associated with it disappear as well.

You need to check out the FAQ section. Many many writeups. Also the stock turbo EGR tube comes off the downpipe elbow, I have one for $20 but you need to use the stock turbo or something similar. Just use whatever clutch/flywheel you have now or upgrade them with NA 225mm clutch stage 2 or something and you should be fine, problem solved.

Still looking for a good rust freeish hatch. Needs to be a base model, preferably with glass. I'll drive up to 2 hours to get this thing. Call or text at 818-919-4242 or PM me