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Many roots style SC'd engines use a water/air intercooler plate sandwiched between the blower and the intake manifold. I am considering fitting a two pass finned cooler (approx 3/4x2x24) in the plenum for my SC'd L28. The plenum will be made from an extruded 'D' tube supplied by Ross Machine. The supercharger bolts directly to a fixed mount on the outside of the plenum. My thoughts were to fit a cooler (such as shown but without the brackets) within the plenum. With that mount I would have two options. Either mount it center where air could flow through and around it or create a barrier, top and bottom, so all air was forced through the cooler fins. This cooler would be fed antifreeze by a small pump and used in conjuction with a larger cooler out front in the grill area. Since this is L28 is force-fed, I don't think the internal cooler would greatly inhibit flow. The fins would also serve to lineate the air flow into the runners. Any thoughts of the feasibility of this idea?

I'm assuming that it now rotates but doesn't back out? Is this mild or stainless steel piping? How accessible is the plug? I'd either use a cutoff tool to cut the whole bung off and hope to get to anything that fell in then weld on a new bung or I'd more likely use a hole saw that encompassed the whole bung, cut out that section, and weld in a patch with a new bung. High temp copper anti-sieze works well in places like this.

Two men were drinking beer when one says "I think I'm going to divorce my wife. She hasn't spoken to me in two months". His friend replied "I'd give that more thought if I were you. A woman like that is hard to find".

I'm impressed by the overall design. I'm still fighting with front mid-bass speaker placement. The kick panel panel housings look great. How deep are they? The tweeters in the kick panels don't do much for me. I believe you'd have been better off fitting those in the dash trim panel adjacent to the windshield base but that's just my humble opinion. Adding upper tweeters would still be easily done. Overall, I'd say you'll be greatly impressed by the sound quality and acheivable volume when it's completed.

On my conversion I simply rotated the piston out of the housing until the new pads just cleared the rotor. Afterwards, I kept applying the brakes and setting the parking until everything worked as desired. It didn't take long. I think most people rotate the piston too far into the housing and expect the caliper to adjust rapidly. That ain't going to happen.

I agree that the switch is for the antenna. It has the correct wire colors. The connectors look to be stereo related but without a FSM for a 76 and/or wire colors that's merely a guess.

Cleaning off that ridge is a good thing. Also look at smoothing the radius on the bottom of the port behind the valve seat. I'm no authority here but many suggest working on the intake manifold to gain breathing capability especially with a N/A engine. Porting the head will not be terribly effective without the intake being able to feed it properly. There are many great posts in here describing what some have done to improve airflow.

Don't wrap. It's not for a daily driver application. I've have personally seen a header glowing RED HOT through wrapping after a 10 mile trek. You can control heat with shields and barrier material much better.

I stand corrected...well, at least partially since no one knows for sure.

I believe it is FRP (fiber reinforced plastic) like that found in the early sugar scoops and some JDM ZG flares or spoilers.

Daeron, most 12mm head bolts I've seen or gotten specs on are too short and have a 1.5 pitch. I haven't looked at the LD28 bolts in a while but I seem to recall that they were too short or too long (wrong thread placement to use as short). The diesel head isn't as tall as the petrol head. I've been spending money like a drunken sailor (no offense to drunken sailors) lately. Dropping $$$ on studs may be my only choice to cinch the head down properly. With thousands already spent it seems foolish the go half-azz on this critical area. One question that I can't find an answer to is bolt strength. Am I resigned to using a 'head' bolt or would a hi-quality grade 8 or better also work? I'm heading to a diesel repair shop tomorrow afternoon to see what they may have. I'll also go to the PNP and try to find something viable, including the Subi. PalmettoZ, the narrow big ends have been gone over. To make these narrow rods work would probably be expensive such that custom rods would probably be comparable in cost IMHO.

Jay260Z, go to this post, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142674 and you can see what I did to mount the gauges. While this swap can be done in car it is so much easier to pull the dash with the help of a friend. There are only a handful of connectors and screws to undo. Being single, my dash is residing on the sofa in my sunroom where I can easily work on it without damage. On a 240Z, you must disconnect the heater control cables to remove that panel for easy access to the small gauges. Getting to the tach and speedo is a RPITA with the dash installed. The best reason for pulling the dash is it allows you to properly lace in the gauge harnesses to the existing wiring. While it is out I have been cleaning up the interior, adding soundproofing/new carpet and installing the VintageAir Gen II ac unit. It's one of those 'while I'm at it' moments.

Jed, I didn't mean to imply there was some attitude in my reply. I apologize if it was perceived that way. I was merely pointing out some aspects of building a stroker. Like you and others, I had looked at a variety of rods and pistons. The custom piston seemed the most reasonable approach for me although paying for those pistons really sucked. Mine has been in the works for about 2 years between research and parts gathering. It uses a LD block and LD crank. The 85mm (+.5mm over) bore to 83mm stroke provides a 1.024 ratio while the L20B rod length of 145.9mmm and the 83mm bore gives a 1.758 ratio. I went with the JE pistons to compliment the other parts. There are as many ways to get here as there are stroker builds. With the constant evolution of engines it's reasonable to think that a better off-the-shelf rod and piston combo could be right around the corner.

I saw one of these a year or more back on eBay. The seller had brought it over from Japan. Other than the unique qualities I don't see any value in it. With a single barrel (or small two-barrel?) it would produce high intake velocity and good low rpm performance much like the L6's found in many early trucks. Cool find. I'd pick it up and keep it around for conversation, if nothing else.

It's one of those you can't afford it if you have to ask...LOL. My JE pistons with rings and pins were close to $1k. Like I said, it's about spending stupid money to build a stroker.

The chrome trim is popped loose from the outer lip. It clips on a metal piece underneath that the strap retaining screw goes through. You then have to slowly work it down the strap so you can get the the retaining screw. It may very well break due to age though. Luckly, Nissan still has these. I bought two from http://www.Courtesyparts.com for about $22 each plus shipping. From a prior post, "The pull strap including the chrome bits is available at Courtesy Parts in Tx. I have dealt with them quite often. Ask for David as he is the S30 guru. I believe I paid around $22 each for these straps. Part number is 80950-E4100 and labeled as a grip assy."

If you can't locate the 9mm just get a set of the 8mm. They are more available anyhow. Next get a set of big block Chevy 3/8 rod bolts and head to the local machine shop. They can be fitted and provide exceptional strength for your rods. I use these in my 71 240Z L24. See page 37 of the "How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine". It's right there.

Did you plead stupid? I was stopped doing about 70 in a 35 zone (coming to the end of a interstate merge) while totally caught up in the serene beauty of a warm sunny morning. I actually rolled right up onto a PD forensic vehicle in blue and white with huge gold letters. He and another officer got behind the Z to pull me over. I didn't get an attitude when he asked if my rocket had a working speedo. I told him the truth. I was mesmorized enjoying that great morning and said it was shear stupidity. He held me for several minutes to tell me about court costs, fines and insurance rates. Finally he let me go with a warning that it shouldn't happen a second time in front of him. I have no use for tint. Ultimately, it ends up scratched and looking like crap anyhow. Why invite the law to stop you?

You build a stroker because you want to. It isn't about hp to $. Were it so, you'd be dropping in a V6/V8. Dollar for dollar that is way cheaper. There is a lot of info on building a stroker in numerous flavors (including offset grinding) on this site. None are inexpensive! You mentioned the 3.4 LD build too. Sleeves and possibly offset grinding are the only way to acheive displacement like that. My build uses both the LD block and crank. It is only bored .5mm over to 85mm (allows for a rebuild). I'm using JE pistons and L20B rods. Displacement is around 2.85 liters. One thing I'll point out is NO ONE is telling what head bolts with the LD block are being used. I'm still researching a viable bolt. Maybe a Mercedes, Saab, Volvo or an asian/ european diesel (maybe a truck engine) will have something that will work. The BMW 12mm x 1.75 bolts will not work as they're too short. ARP will make a set of studs for around $700-$900! The biggest stumbling block is trying to use the internet for data. The web is slammed full of fodder and floatsum with little viable information. One good hit is balanced with 10,000 hits of garbage.

You can also have the tank boiled at the radiator shop prior to any cutting or welding. Piping in a bit of co2/argon from a welding bottle works too. One more thing, don't do this is an enclosed environment unless it is a very large building. A lack of oxygen comes on quickly and with little warning. Passing out or worse could be a serious possibility.

Thanks for the compliment. See http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143072 and look at post #7 for a few pictures. I made this out of a piece of nylon round stock and leds.

How much do you need to take off to fit inside the hat?

What condition is the countershaft gear in? It is in constant contact with the first motion shaft so it seems logical that there's be damged on those teeth too.

I can understand how much these wheels are going to set me back and I'm foolish to spend that kind of money but I need proper offset with NO spacers. Putting things into perspective, ARP is going to hit me up for $700 to $900 for 14, yes only 14 special 12mm head studs. That amounts to roughly $9 per inch! Now that is outrageous! I'm still trying to find a viable alternative for those.

It's your clutch hydraulics. Trannys don't just dump like that.