NewZed

You said that the sprocket has already been on, just with the dowel in the wrong hole. Therefore there is enough slack available. Use the logic force Luke. Turn the camshaft.

The AFM pump relay switch needs air flow also. Get clean wires from the AFM to the ECU on that high resistance 8-9 circuit, and the hose, and it will probably run fine.

I have one that has about the same 6-8 and 8-9 values. 234/130 = 1.8, as does 180/100. I'm not an expert on what the ECU does with the values but the ratio is is the same. Get the AFM boot connected, and check the wring harness from the AFM to the ECU. There must be some resistance along the way. It will probably at least control the engine if you can get those same values at the ECU. Then you can decide if it's bad enough to need a new one. The old AFM's tend to run lean, popping back through the intake and hesitating when accelerating. There's a fix for that. The fuel pump problem would probably have something to do with your EFI / fuel pump combined relay. It's a 1x1x2" silver box above the hood release handle. Above the driver's left leg. There's a test procedure for that in the books also.

Methinks you need to remove the AFM and test at the pins. You'll be removing it anyway. Maybe you've already had it sitting in front of you. The pin numbers are molded in to the connector base. Test resistance right at the pins of the AFM. Do it before you buy another. Besides that, you're not understanding how the AFM works at all. How will the vane in the AFM move if there's no air flow through it? Logic it out. "(theres no afm -> TB boot installed on it yet)."

Take the wedge out and see where you're at. You're just wasting time until you do that. Forget about the links, those are for new chain installation. Nissan made things complicated by offering too many instructions. Rotate the camshaft to get the dowel in the hole you want, then take the wedge out and check for the proper orientation of marks. The marks are there to show if everything is correct. If the sprocket is mounted, the tensioner can't come out. If you need to readjust, put the wedge back in and start over.

Your wedge is probably taking up too much chain. The driver's side of the chain needs to be straight from sprocket to sprocket. Like it would be when the engine is running. With the sprocket bolted on you can remove the wedge, then rotate the camshaft backward using your pliers to tighten the chain. That will probably get you on the mark.

The switch just controls the other pickup in the distributor. It advances timing when the engine is cold. It's not necessary. Post better information on how you're testing, pin numbers with resistance readings, and what tools you're using. You didn't say if you tested the AFM itself after you tested "through the harness". Assuming that means at the ECU connector. Could be that you just have a dirty connection, or a bad meter. They'll still be there after you buy a new AFM. Some of the tests don't matter for engine operation, some do. Need the exact test with exact numbers. " most readings through the ECU harness have returned normal, though the AFM tests are reading fairly high. EFI bible called for 100-180 ohms for different AFM readings, mine measured well over 200 on all of the measurements, even close to 300ohms during some test."

SJ, I looked around to see about the C clips/snap rings/circlips and can only find part numbers for late model cars, like 2003 and up. But I did find a couple of interesting sites. Don't know what you'd measure to spec. the ring, but it might be informative. Because it shows a set of clips - http://forums.nicoclub.com/obx-300zx-lsd-with-halfshafts-bearings-t590228.html and a link it led me too, because they sell a variety - http://www.arconring.com/wire-snap-rings/

Went around in a circle and found you. Post #479. Good luck. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95789-seattlejesters-1971-240z/page-24

Picture of the long "power transfer" axle.

Not really sure what you're trying to do but without the very long VLSD axle, the VLSD "can" won't be engaged. You can fit the 28 spline ZX axles in the 28 spline Infiniti units but they will work like open diffs.

If I recall right you can see through the dowel hole to line up the dowel, if the big washer isn't in place. You might get it started that way, then install the washer and bolt. I think that I may have used just the bolt to hold things in place while making the final adjustment. Just a vague memory.

I think the VLSD axle is machined for the wire diameter of the VLSD clip. I wouldn't use the old style clip in a VLSD. The spline and shaft tolerances in mine were so tight it was difficult to get the shaft in even without the clip. Probably makes for much less clunky operation than the older design.

Are you working with a VLSD? You said 280zx turbo axle in the first post. An assumption was made.. The VLSD's do use a clip on the axle itself. It's not the same clip either, it's round wire material, not square stock, I believe (I only have one VLSD so that's all I know). Did you push an old style clip in to a VLSD diff?

What does this mean? Sounds like you're just having trouble getting the sprocket and chain lifted up and "square" on the end of the cam. It can be difficult since it's a close tolerance and the dowel has to fit in the sprocket hole.

There's a sender and a sensor for coolant temperature. One's necessary, one's not. But your research conclusion isn't right, either way. You can get a new sensor at Motor Sport Auto. Maybe even your local Nissan dealer. Do the coolant sensor test shown in the Guidebook first. You might have a ZX AFM on your Z. They have different resistance specs. Find the part number and post it. Not clear if you actually did get the pump to run with the AFM vane or just repeated something that you read. ZX AFM's don't have the switch, so if you have a Z AFM, then those resistance numbers are a problem. The fuel pump should run all of the time that the engine is running. 99% of the air must pass through the AFM. Any leaks after the AFM will cause problems. You might try flexible tape or shoe goo to fix that rip. No holes. Sounds like you have a typical set of 280Z problems. Try using the FSM in addition to the "Bible".

No problem. Study the diagrams that show what the different control settings do. The magnet valve (solenoid) just allows vacuum to be applied to the selector valve. The selector valve controls many devices. So you could run a vacuum line directly to the selector valve but the various devices would open and close with engine vacuum if you don't have the vacuum bottle (vacuum reservoir). Wwithout the FICD (fast idle control device) the compressor load will drop your engine RPM when the AC is on. You could work around it with the idle screw but it's convenient to have. Does the system even produce cold air? You might be getting ahead of yourself. The old systems use R12 which can be hard to find. Might be why the PO ripped all of the control system out. Check the parts inside also, like the vacuum cock, and the hoses to the doors. People tend to go crazy when they decide they hate something. If they're not there you might have a big project ahead. And you should check the fusible link connections just to save your car, in general. If they've been bypassed and you get a short you'll melt a bunch of wiring and life will suck.

I used to make these kinds of list. Class was too boring. Read, don't browse, through that head-cooling thread. You don't have "drilling the head for balanced coolant flow" on the list. Seems like it fits in there. Be careful with those California Datsun purchases. Used to be Datsun Parts LLC.

Use the Factory manual. AC. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Here's a good thread on the issue. There's a lot out there on the topic if you're a good Googler. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/

The 280Z's is buried up in there. He didn't say what he's working on. Should be easy to check at the plug though. Can't remember if I ever checked mine or not. I probably did and was disappointed that it wasn't bad. So I had to replace a bunch of bulbs to get some brightness.

Not enough information to work with. Maybe the throttle linkage is not actually connected to the gas pedal. lol. You didn't even say if engine RPM increased when the car was barely moving.

You should do more reading, thinking, and calculating. Spending big money on some parts then using cheap parts to run them is bad logic.

Flat tops with the stock N42 head gets you around 10:1 CR I think. With a shave, even higher, Welded chambers, way up there, need race fuel. We don't use kings in America. But, at least, you'll need a distributor to distribute spark. Core.

One thought that crosses my mind whenever I see these problems is to just run a separate coil and ignition module, with the coil just dumping to ground. Use the coil negative to run the EFI and tach, and let the MSD box do its thing on its own circuit. The 280Z VR signal should be strong enough to run two modules, I'd think. If you have a dual pickup distributor you could even use one pickup for the MSD and one for the EFI. That should definitely work, they wouldn't even see each other.