NewZed

Forgot to ask, just for fun - take off the cover and post some pictures. It could be a VLSD. Not the same as a CLSD.

That last post was well-written, unlike the others. Good luck with the new parts. Read the threads about CV axle length, it can be a problem.

grumpyvette has posted some good basic advice for mounting an engine. Looks like you're not going to find much out there. You might be the first. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25316-want-to-fabricate-motor-mounts/ That transmission looks large. Maybe just camera perspective but taking and posting some measurements might get some ideas flowing. It's just two pictures and an idea right now.

If you talk gibberish to the guy selling it for long enough he'll probably give it to you.

So, basically what you're saying is that Nissan cast a P90A head but machined it for solid P90 pivot studs. Interesting, but it's still basically just a P90 head. Crazy? Looks like just a transition part.

I spent the time to remove a diff with a finned cover from a 240SX. Took the cover off and found a bunch of ugly welds. No telling what the people before you did to it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114229-p90a-hydraulic-lifter-conversion-to-solid/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Zoz8MwgE_o

Something's off. The valve lifts are less than stock. Duration's longer for two, but they claim more power and torque with less lift and duration even for the first. How so? Not an expert, take a grain of salt. The guys that seem to know almost all recommend Iskenderian. A phone call and a discussion, gets a cam profile. Or you can go with a "Magnum". Awkward.

Post some pictures. Pick one project. Start working on it. Looks like nobody is going to offer to come over and help in person, so that's the next step if you want to make some progress. Or you can write more stuff on the internet.

Frankly, this looks like a quagmire. A big list of difficult things (flares, coilovers, and floor pans aren't that easy), not much many to spend, talk about "chopping" things up, with "lol" thrown in the mix. Probably best to offer free beer to anybody that will just stop by and check out your car. Give them a chance to see if they want to get involved. At least you didn't start with a giant HELP ME!. I hate seeing that.

https://www.facebook.com/South-Florida-Z-Car-Club-248039795221806/

Some people buy new clips, some re-use the old ones. They install inside the diff, not on the axles. Better read this thread from the beginning, there are some important posts about getting the parts right so that the clip grooves are the right distance in from the seals. So the axles ride in the correct place. Can't remember where, back in the #80-140 range of posts, maybe.

You're going to buy a whole distributor because a wire broke?

There's an early 260Z and a late 260Z. There's also an early 280Z and a late 280Z. I'd start a new thread of your own, with the details of what you have and what you want to do. You haven't even posted the year of your 280Z yet. You're getting spread out over multiple threads and you're going to get lost in the answers. People who reply to one won't reply to the other, And if you ignore them in one they're not going to repost the same answer elsewhere. Just a suggestion. This thread is over 7 years old and BRAAP has moved on to other things, so most likely won't reply. Although, his profile says he was active 2 days ago.

Here's a good thread from the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/ You need to be more specific than "mecanics". All of the moving parts are mechanical. Doors, wheels, engine, transmission, etc. The complete drivetrain, from engine to differential, from the 260Z 2+2 will transplant in to the 280Z, if that's what you're asking. Not many body parts though, if it's an early 260Z, plus the fact that 2+2 body parts can be different from coupe parts.

Watch the tachometer needle. It will tell you if you're losing spark. If you're in gear coasting, powerless, and the needle shows spark from the engine spinning, it's probably a fuel problem.

75-77 uses the fuel pump relay switch in the AFM. Some 78 AFMs also come with the switch, just not used. Post some test numbers and a description of what's "bad" and somebody might be able to help you out. You'll need a meter and knowledge of how to use it for Megasquirt anyway. Get some practice.

A clue for you - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/32-nissan-l6-forum/ What is Zeroyon?

Because this thread will be just one more of all of those you've read. Same people saying the same things. You need to reason it out and the answer will make sense when you're done.

Can't you read those various threads and posts and tell who knows what they're talking about and who's just talking like Ace Ventura? Does nobody have the ability to draw a conclusion anymore?

Sorry, I didn't get it. My mistake. Thought you meant 280ZXT flanges. Good luck. BUT. You could get some plain old factory 280ZX axles, for the CV cars, turbo or 2+2, and swap those in. Here's a write-up. http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html

Apparently there's a lot of mythology out there, for all engines really, not just the L6 about what adds power. TB, AFM, CR - all suspect. BRAAP summarized these and added some fact-based reality in a past post. Not much dissent from his opinions. Worth reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ And all of these threads have value - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

As I understand things, the 240Z and 280ZX use the same diameter and spline count. People swap in 280ZX axles for 240Z, by modifying the dust shield. The 280Z is different. So the 280ZXT adapter might work.

Here's where the coolant showed up on mine. Flat spot on the back corner of the block deck. No heater hoses in the way because I was removing the engine.

Stick your head down on the passenger side and look across the mating surface between head and block. You might get a better view.