NewZed

Measure bore wall thickness so that you have some numbers to work from.

Try to imagine the car at your place with you working to make it what you want. What you're describing and what you said your plans are have some mismatches. You said that you're planning an engine swap but say that this latest car has a fantastic running L28. Who cares about the L28 if you're planning a swap? It doesn't matter much. Or maybe it does but you haven't realized it. Figure out what you like doing and what you hate doing and get the car with few hates and lots of likes. I bought my car non-running because the body was straight and I hate body work. But I like the mechanical stuff. You could get a great "deal", in other people's opinion, but hate working on it. Also, distinguish between hard stuff and easy stuff. Brakes are pretty easy.

Add a spacer behind your wheel adapter. How did you measure bearing "slop". Seems like you were probably super close before you started and didn't get the bearings tight when you reassembled. What year car? And the link is broken, describe which kit. The Silvermine site must use cookies.

Never mind. The distance piece just needs to match the bearing seats for the outer race in the casting. Overthinking.

Just realized that the guys who sell the high-performance axles never mention the distance piece. To johnc's point, #12, in this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/35065-280z-stub-axle-vs-240z-stub-axle/?do=findComment&comment=1164179

I was just pointing out that "clear all the way through" may not be a "cover on" guaranteed way to ID a CLSD. Although it may be for long nose R200's, unmolested from the factory. The J30 diff is from a short nose, that I was considering transplanting in to a long nose case. Which would confuse things for any future owner.

Just for the record, for future searchers, the VLSD's are "clear all the way through" also. There are more splined sections though. Here's a shortnose R200 VLSD from a J30. Of course, the shaft lengths are a sign also, if they're there.

Opinions on the car's price? It is the price check forum. Looks unrusty, which is good. Missing a lot of parts, which will cost you. There's a ton out there on Z and ZX engine blocks and heads. N42 is just one of them. Put these words in your favorite search engine "datsun engine blocks and heads".

All of my open R200's have that pad/hump. That's where I write the ratios.

Here's a NISMO CLSD from bjhines picture album. Hard to get good pictures of the internals. Ramp shaft and disc edges are the signs. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41786-i-got-a-87-z31-lsd-w-some-questions/page-5 Funny, I used the same picture jmortensen did in his thread. Note that there are two types of CLSD apparently. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Have fun with it.

Forgot to ask, just for fun - take off the cover and post some pictures. It could be a VLSD. Not the same as a CLSD.

That last post was well-written, unlike the others. Good luck with the new parts. Read the threads about CV axle length, it can be a problem.

grumpyvette has posted some good basic advice for mounting an engine. Looks like you're not going to find much out there. You might be the first. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25316-want-to-fabricate-motor-mounts/ That transmission looks large. Maybe just camera perspective but taking and posting some measurements might get some ideas flowing. It's just two pictures and an idea right now.

If you talk gibberish to the guy selling it for long enough he'll probably give it to you.

So, basically what you're saying is that Nissan cast a P90A head but machined it for solid P90 pivot studs. Interesting, but it's still basically just a P90 head. Crazy? Looks like just a transition part.

I spent the time to remove a diff with a finned cover from a 240SX. Took the cover off and found a bunch of ugly welds. No telling what the people before you did to it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114229-p90a-hydraulic-lifter-conversion-to-solid/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Zoz8MwgE_o

Something's off. The valve lifts are less than stock. Duration's longer for two, but they claim more power and torque with less lift and duration even for the first. How so? Not an expert, take a grain of salt. The guys that seem to know almost all recommend Iskenderian. A phone call and a discussion, gets a cam profile. Or you can go with a "Magnum". Awkward.

Post some pictures. Pick one project. Start working on it. Looks like nobody is going to offer to come over and help in person, so that's the next step if you want to make some progress. Or you can write more stuff on the internet.

Frankly, this looks like a quagmire. A big list of difficult things (flares, coilovers, and floor pans aren't that easy), not much many to spend, talk about "chopping" things up, with "lol" thrown in the mix. Probably best to offer free beer to anybody that will just stop by and check out your car. Give them a chance to see if they want to get involved. At least you didn't start with a giant HELP ME!. I hate seeing that.

https://www.facebook.com/South-Florida-Z-Car-Club-248039795221806/

Some people buy new clips, some re-use the old ones. They install inside the diff, not on the axles. Better read this thread from the beginning, there are some important posts about getting the parts right so that the clip grooves are the right distance in from the seals. So the axles ride in the correct place. Can't remember where, back in the #80-140 range of posts, maybe.

You're going to buy a whole distributor because a wire broke?

There's an early 260Z and a late 260Z. There's also an early 280Z and a late 280Z. I'd start a new thread of your own, with the details of what you have and what you want to do. You haven't even posted the year of your 280Z yet. You're getting spread out over multiple threads and you're going to get lost in the answers. People who reply to one won't reply to the other, And if you ignore them in one they're not going to repost the same answer elsewhere. Just a suggestion. This thread is over 7 years old and BRAAP has moved on to other things, so most likely won't reply. Although, his profile says he was active 2 days ago.

Here's a good thread from the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/ You need to be more specific than "mecanics". All of the moving parts are mechanical. Doors, wheels, engine, transmission, etc. The complete drivetrain, from engine to differential, from the 260Z 2+2 will transplant in to the 280Z, if that's what you're asking. Not many body parts though, if it's an early 260Z, plus the fact that 2+2 body parts can be different from coupe parts.