NewZed

I was thinking of the mustache bar bushings. It sits on the urethane if you have those, so you could shave the top bushing and put a big washer under the bottom to raise the back of the diff. If you have stock rubber, you'd have to grind the metal center sleeve and add washers underneath to raise it a bit since the rubber is bonded to the sleeve. Then shim up the front to match, or not since the V8's tend to need the nose down, at least when RT designed his front mount. Just thinking about moving the diff since it's attached to your problem. You obviously won't have to move it much. A set of urethane control arm bushings might also move the A-arm slightly if you still have stock rubber, or stop some of the squat.

Get a meter and and measure coil voltage with the key on. Positive terminal to ground and negative terminal to ground. Compare to battery voltage. Check the condenser, it might be shorting. Points are pretty easy to play with because you can see them, and move them by hand. You can crank the engine and watch them open and close or remove the distributor and rotate it by hand. Focus on the basics of a points ignition system.

But did it start, then not run, or not start and not run? Communication is paramount.

I just wanted to see if he had points. This is just basic engine stuff. The tach problem looks like just a bad tach, probably not related to not starting (weird that a double negative works there...). Try starting fluid. Then go to the Engine Tuneup chapter of the FSM. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/

Have you checked the diff angle? It might need adjustment anyway. Raise it and align it. A little bushing shaving and some washers would probably solve the problem and improve the angle. Even if the angle is right, a shave and some washers would probably get you where you want to be.

Remove the distributor cap, take a picture of what's under it, and post it here.

Many would say that you have a whole set of weak links, from your 240Z hub axles, through the 930 CV's, to the R180 (small ring gear) diff (used - who knows what the PO did to it). What you're really asking is a general question about a how Type B (I just found this, see below, not an expert) Torsen type differential fails. "How do Torsens fail?". If the Sti R180 is that style (assume that you saw those parts when you had it open). https://www.jtekt.co.jp/e/products/lsd.html

You haven't mentioned desired ride height or shock travel. You can use almost any brand of shock you want, apparently, and pick your ride quality level. It's on their web site. http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=63

Yes, that diagram is not for your tach. Just run one wire to coil negative, forget about the tach sensor wire. Your tach is on the positive side, don't worry about it. If you're lucky it will work fine.

Not a Subie expert either, but aren't those boosted numbers from AWD cars? Divide by two?

It's just popular opinion. You're the guinea pig. Report results. So far you're supporting the prevailing view. R180 > LS1 > burnout > horrible noises.

I'd crawl under and look for loose parts first. Could be the burnout had nothing to do with the noise. Interesting setup. People will be curious. Some have already said the R180 is too small for that power level. Post pictures.

If you're connecting black (ground) directly to the negative post then yes, wrong wire. Black connects to the distributor body. Run a new wire from the coil negative to the C terminal on the E12-80 module.

No answers here, but how big are your tires, how dry were the roads, how much torque do you think your LS1 is producing, and what gear were you in when you stomped the throttle? And was there anywheel hop? Just to fill out the critical data list. And, just for fun, what happens if you give it gas in reverse? Might give a clue.

You either have a short in the E12-80 module or a wire connected wrong. With the key on and engine not spinning you should have battery voltage on both sides of the coil. The 3 bolt drop is because the negative post is connected to ground. Recheck the circuit from the negative post of the coil. Make sure that "tach sensor" wire in your zgarage link has resistance.

The stuff inside the plastic cover. Take the screws out and remove it. Careful with the top piece, you have to maneuver it so you don't break the corners off. Don't miss the small screw in the bottom middle. The ring around the ignition switch will pop out about 1/8 inch to give you extra room.

Pretty sure I've seen that people have replaced the complete front end of the S30 at times. The noses get damaged. There are many body specs and drawings in the FSM Body chapter if you want to see what else is bent. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Some people are fine with knowing that underneath the shiny new stuff is a bunch of bent rusty stuff. Others can't stand the thought that there's even surface rust on the inside of a body panel. Which type are you? Aside from that, if you ever decide to resell the car, you'll either be the guy who hid past damage, or you'll take a loss unless you find a person it doesn't bother.

How do you know it's erratic? Doesn't look like you're measuring anything. You would have found that loose connection.

It is page 131, illustrated on 132, good memory. Thought you were talking about the hole at the top of the quill. Seems like it could be machined and a bushing inserted. Covers were probably cheaper and easier to find back when he wrote that book. You might also find a Redi-Sleeve or Speedi-Sleeve that fits the shaft. I'm not a machinist or engine builder though. http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/seals/industrial/products/Pages/redisleeves.aspx http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

Where is this specification? Can't seem to find any reference in the FSM chapters.

Wide-deep or wide-wide? One picture is worth a thousand saggys.

You might be on the right track. No power to the L terminal usually means no charging will happen. You can check for power at the plugs, alternator or instrument panel, with a meter or test light.

Only with a 1978 EFI harness. 1976 uses a switch n the AFM. It's all described in the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. Lots of important other stuff in there too. Don't overlook that air flow moves the AFM vane that allows the switch to close. And that the crankcase is connected to the intake system through the PCV. All air must pass through the AFM. The crankcase, from dip stick tube to PCV to filler cap has to be sealed. If you're not familiar with the 280Z EFI, there are many other little things to pay attention to. Read that chapter.

So, engine modification support, not really swap support? VH, VG, VQ,1UZ, etc. (don't forget VK) is a lot of platforms. Good luck. You can get a feel by counting the posts in those sub forums. Quantity is what the aftermarket looks for.

Very windy. What do you mean by "support" anyway? Aftermarket for all of the swaps is somewhat spotty and sporadic. The volume is too low. It's more of a DIY thing, using Megasquirt or Nistune, and cutting, bolting and welding, than plug and play kits. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/17-6-cylinder-z-forums/ http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/46-other-v8z-tech-board/