NewZed

Megasquirt is open source, I believe. Some hot rodder/coder out there could probably figure out a way to drive two ignition types at once. One for the plugs and one for the 240Z tach. The "adapter" might just be a separate ignition coil that discharges to ground, dedicated to the tachometer. It would look like a plain old points ignition system to the tachometer. A person could even run a distributor just for the tachometer, if they had a crank trigger for the plugs. It would have no plug wires or coil wire. The coil discharge wire would be attached directly to ground. Actually, you wouldn't even need the cap, except to protect the points. You could build a smaller cap for that purpose. The distributor and its points would just be an RPM counter for the tach.

Aren't the stock 300ZXT axles too long anyway? Even if the adapters are the same width/height the stock axles will be too long after re-drilling. The 280ZXT CV axles seem to be the right length. But they're hard to find.

Weren't you planning to use the 280ZX Turbo companion flanges? http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm Or do you have 280Z hubs and axles in your 240Z?

So cg, are you suggesting that he not contact Sakura Garage? I was going off what's on your web site. Don't want to send people down a dead end. "We specialize in L28ET motor swaps and wiring the 280zx ECU into the stock harness. In addition, we build custom wire harnesses to use the VG30 ECU and components with a L28ET swap."

Check out cgsheen's shop. He's a fan of Nistune, but with the VG30E control system, mid to late 90's style, Pathfinders, Maximas, 300ZX's etc. Click through the Products link. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117612-sakura-garage-stance-usa-coilover-kit/?do=findComment&comment=1102814

Actually, considering that he said that one day it locked up, implying that he was rolling and locked the tire, it could be that something broke inside, like a shoe retainer, and jammed between the shoe and the drum. So, in the end, unless the adjustment hole is in the right spot, RebekahsZ's advice may be the only way. Or, rolling backward to unjam it might work. I'd start it up, and see if some reverse action would at least get the hole in the right spot.

Most of the advice you'll find is for brake drums that have rusted on after sitting for a long time. Yours sounds like a mechanical problem with the parking brake mechanism. They don't rust overnight unless you drove through the ocean during the day. Study the Brake chapter of the FSM and examine the parking brake parts. No use beating the crap out of things until you're sure the parking brake isn't stuck.

Depends on the transmission.

Looks like MS II will drive six coils. You just need more BIP's. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm Sequential injection is pleasing to think about but apparently adds little above low RPM. The injectors can't squirt all of their fuel while the valves are open and air is flowing. The cylinders can't tell the difference. The SDS guys seem to know some stuff. http://www.sdsefi.com/techseq.htm Wasted spark wastes its spark on the exhaust stroke. There's nothing in the cylinder to burn, and the exhaust valve is open anyway. No pressure or fuel available to cause a detonation. Use the money saved on MS3-Pro to upgrade those other parts. Sorry, just can't let the illogical pass by un-noted. 22 minutes? Are the manifolds left on, and the heads lifted just enough to slip the gaskets out and in? There must be a trick.

09 Feb 2016 - 08:53 AM, said: The ECU is part of the ECCS. C'mon, admit it - you're on a phone and the EFEC chapter is too big to open on it. It's all there, with labels, wire colors, all that you need. So easy that this thread is just getting weird. Open up the EFEC chapter in the link I provided and go to page 12. Actually page 11 is useful also. Seems to fit the words you wrote. Good luck.

AZC's setup is essentially solid. Don't click on the link unless you have time and bandwidth, there seem to be a lot more pictures there now. I pulled one out. You could do similar but leave the rotating inner axis at its original position. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars.html

Look at the picture I posted and follow your impulses.

You're going to have problems if you can't generate the energy for a couple of clicks. Of course, this may be the typical "life from a phone" problem. 6 or a half dozen. What's worse? Don't get mad, I'm here for entertainment.

Seems like the floppy rubber inner bushings are what would allow the control arm to twist and side-load the strut. Delrin or metal would help lock that axis in place. It would then have more of that race car feel.

Which one? - http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/index.asp http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part.asp Will you be using Nistune or are you matching JWT specifications exactly? Seems like they'd offer instructions if they've spec'ed things out. 3.0 stroked L6 isn't a stock engine, it would need a specific tune.

Not sure what "setup" you mean, the whole project or just 1989, but here are some good 1989 300ZX diagrams. Top of the list. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/1989/

1973 has some wiring differences, I think, That's why they only spec the kit to 1972. One option for you would be to figure out what's wrong first. The manual has some tests you can run, Engine Electrical, after you confirm that your meter works correctly. If the VR is working, the replacement alternators will all be 60 amp anyway, so no "upgrade" with a ZX alternator. Everything is 60 amp, unless you convert to a different model IR alternator. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

You're not getting it. It's just a hose that connects one side of the throttle blade to the other side. A bypass. The valve controls how much air is let past the throttle blade. Just like all idle speed control devices. More air = more RPM. lol

Just the 280ZX. Here's 1982.

Line up the marks shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

280ZX's use a separate hose to bypass the throttle blade with a valve inside.

How about some numbers, or a picture, or at least a description of which end is higher, or if it's just one end or both. Most people with Eibach problems say the front sits too high. Could be that somebody made a large batch of counterfeit Eibachs and the dealers just keep buying them. With all of the bad press it's surprising that anybody sells them, and that people keep buying. I guess the second drives the first. Also, did you check that the stock springs weren't cut? Maybe you're comparing new Eibach to cut stock.

A bad or stuck check valve in the booster vacuum supply hose will let the booster vacuum vary with intake manifold vacuum. It would also allow boost in to the booster. A boosted booster probably won't last long. A leaking booster will typically cause idle speed to change when the brakes are applied.

Hybridz member BURLEIGH used to make a brace to fit around finned covers. Seems to fit the general theme. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111900-mounting-bracket-crossmember-for-r230-into-s30/?do=findComment&comment=1047064

Here it is. It's not in the Members Projects forum, it's in Nissan RB. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96953-my-240-rb26-build/page-38?do=findComment&comment=1164740