NewZed

Line up the marks shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

280ZX's use a separate hose to bypass the throttle blade with a valve inside.

How about some numbers, or a picture, or at least a description of which end is higher, or if it's just one end or both. Most people with Eibach problems say the front sits too high. Could be that somebody made a large batch of counterfeit Eibachs and the dealers just keep buying them. With all of the bad press it's surprising that anybody sells them, and that people keep buying. I guess the second drives the first. Also, did you check that the stock springs weren't cut? Maybe you're comparing new Eibach to cut stock.

A bad or stuck check valve in the booster vacuum supply hose will let the booster vacuum vary with intake manifold vacuum. It would also allow boost in to the booster. A boosted booster probably won't last long. A leaking booster will typically cause idle speed to change when the brakes are applied.

Hybridz member BURLEIGH used to make a brace to fit around finned covers. Seems to fit the general theme. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111900-mounting-bracket-crossmember-for-r230-into-s30/?do=findComment&comment=1047064

Here it is. It's not in the Members Projects forum, it's in Nissan RB. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96953-my-240-rb26-build/page-38?do=findComment&comment=1164740

Seems like you did kind of leave an original factory part out. The hanging braces are working extra hard without it. You've left 'em hanging.

So how does it compare?

I took one of the newer style pumps apart and it was the roller vane type, not :"turbine". Same form as the typical Bosch or Airtex pump.

The EBay link (maybe it's just one of those Google ad word diverters) just goes to eBay and searching boldbluesky there comes up with nothing. Good that you found something that seems to work, even though you had to slam the doors to shut them, and you've only tested sealing by looking for light. The Sportage seals seem to work better, no slamming required. Seals too thick is the reason people looked for other options. Good intentions but not much to use here. Why didn't you use the Sportage weather strip?

What's an "upgrade"? There is no should unless you have an objective. Here's a good thread discussion differences between those two cars. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/

Are you on the right forum? http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Blaiant Compare the wiring diagrams from the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Looks like an interesting swap, but there's not a lot of meat here. There's a tiny picture of some motor mounts and a bunch of pictures of a fuel tank. And apparently there's a PCM being used, that will be sent somewhere. We don't even know where the second engine came from, so the 97 Firebird panache is gone. Good luck. Post some bigger better pictures with some details and you'll probably get some feedback. The 3800 engines seem pretty solid and they're everywhere. Could be a popular swap.

Bad title and wrong sub-forum. None of the RB guys will see the question.

Measure bore wall thickness so that you have some numbers to work from.

Try to imagine the car at your place with you working to make it what you want. What you're describing and what you said your plans are have some mismatches. You said that you're planning an engine swap but say that this latest car has a fantastic running L28. Who cares about the L28 if you're planning a swap? It doesn't matter much. Or maybe it does but you haven't realized it. Figure out what you like doing and what you hate doing and get the car with few hates and lots of likes. I bought my car non-running because the body was straight and I hate body work. But I like the mechanical stuff. You could get a great "deal", in other people's opinion, but hate working on it. Also, distinguish between hard stuff and easy stuff. Brakes are pretty easy.

Add a spacer behind your wheel adapter. How did you measure bearing "slop". Seems like you were probably super close before you started and didn't get the bearings tight when you reassembled. What year car? And the link is broken, describe which kit. The Silvermine site must use cookies.

Never mind. The distance piece just needs to match the bearing seats for the outer race in the casting. Overthinking.

Just realized that the guys who sell the high-performance axles never mention the distance piece. To johnc's point, #12, in this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/35065-280z-stub-axle-vs-240z-stub-axle/?do=findComment&comment=1164179

I was just pointing out that "clear all the way through" may not be a "cover on" guaranteed way to ID a CLSD. Although it may be for long nose R200's, unmolested from the factory. The J30 diff is from a short nose, that I was considering transplanting in to a long nose case. Which would confuse things for any future owner.

Just for the record, for future searchers, the VLSD's are "clear all the way through" also. There are more splined sections though. Here's a shortnose R200 VLSD from a J30. Of course, the shaft lengths are a sign also, if they're there.

Opinions on the car's price? It is the price check forum. Looks unrusty, which is good. Missing a lot of parts, which will cost you. There's a ton out there on Z and ZX engine blocks and heads. N42 is just one of them. Put these words in your favorite search engine "datsun engine blocks and heads".

All of my open R200's have that pad/hump. That's where I write the ratios.

Here's a NISMO CLSD from bjhines picture album. Hard to get good pictures of the internals. Ramp shaft and disc edges are the signs. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/41786-i-got-a-87-z31-lsd-w-some-questions/page-5 Funny, I used the same picture jmortensen did in his thread. Note that there are two types of CLSD apparently. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Have fun with it.