NewZed

09 Feb 2016 - 08:53 AM, said: The ECU is part of the ECCS. C'mon, admit it - you're on a phone and the EFEC chapter is too big to open on it. It's all there, with labels, wire colors, all that you need. So easy that this thread is just getting weird. Open up the EFEC chapter in the link I provided and go to page 12. Actually page 11 is useful also. Seems to fit the words you wrote. Good luck.

AZC's setup is essentially solid. Don't click on the link unless you have time and bandwidth, there seem to be a lot more pictures there now. I pulled one out. You could do similar but leave the rotating inner axis at its original position. http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars.html

Look at the picture I posted and follow your impulses.

You're going to have problems if you can't generate the energy for a couple of clicks. Of course, this may be the typical "life from a phone" problem. 6 or a half dozen. What's worse? Don't get mad, I'm here for entertainment.

Seems like the floppy rubber inner bushings are what would allow the control arm to twist and side-load the strut. Delrin or metal would help lock that axis in place. It would then have more of that race car feel.

Which one? - http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/index.asp http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part.asp Will you be using Nistune or are you matching JWT specifications exactly? Seems like they'd offer instructions if they've spec'ed things out. 3.0 stroked L6 isn't a stock engine, it would need a specific tune.

Not sure what "setup" you mean, the whole project or just 1989, but here are some good 1989 300ZX diagrams. Top of the list. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/1989/

1973 has some wiring differences, I think, That's why they only spec the kit to 1972. One option for you would be to figure out what's wrong first. The manual has some tests you can run, Engine Electrical, after you confirm that your meter works correctly. If the VR is working, the replacement alternators will all be 60 amp anyway, so no "upgrade" with a ZX alternator. Everything is 60 amp, unless you convert to a different model IR alternator. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

You're not getting it. It's just a hose that connects one side of the throttle blade to the other side. A bypass. The valve controls how much air is let past the throttle blade. Just like all idle speed control devices. More air = more RPM. lol

Just the 280ZX. Here's 1982.

Line up the marks shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter.

280ZX's use a separate hose to bypass the throttle blade with a valve inside.

How about some numbers, or a picture, or at least a description of which end is higher, or if it's just one end or both. Most people with Eibach problems say the front sits too high. Could be that somebody made a large batch of counterfeit Eibachs and the dealers just keep buying them. With all of the bad press it's surprising that anybody sells them, and that people keep buying. I guess the second drives the first. Also, did you check that the stock springs weren't cut? Maybe you're comparing new Eibach to cut stock.

A bad or stuck check valve in the booster vacuum supply hose will let the booster vacuum vary with intake manifold vacuum. It would also allow boost in to the booster. A boosted booster probably won't last long. A leaking booster will typically cause idle speed to change when the brakes are applied.

Hybridz member BURLEIGH used to make a brace to fit around finned covers. Seems to fit the general theme. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111900-mounting-bracket-crossmember-for-r230-into-s30/?do=findComment&comment=1047064

Here it is. It's not in the Members Projects forum, it's in Nissan RB. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96953-my-240-rb26-build/page-38?do=findComment&comment=1164740

Seems like you did kind of leave an original factory part out. The hanging braces are working extra hard without it. You've left 'em hanging.

So how does it compare?

I took one of the newer style pumps apart and it was the roller vane type, not :"turbine". Same form as the typical Bosch or Airtex pump.

The EBay link (maybe it's just one of those Google ad word diverters) just goes to eBay and searching boldbluesky there comes up with nothing. Good that you found something that seems to work, even though you had to slam the doors to shut them, and you've only tested sealing by looking for light. The Sportage seals seem to work better, no slamming required. Seals too thick is the reason people looked for other options. Good intentions but not much to use here. Why didn't you use the Sportage weather strip?

What's an "upgrade"? There is no should unless you have an objective. Here's a good thread discussion differences between those two cars. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99098-pallnet-fuel-rails/

Are you on the right forum? http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Blaiant Compare the wiring diagrams from the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Looks like an interesting swap, but there's not a lot of meat here. There's a tiny picture of some motor mounts and a bunch of pictures of a fuel tank. And apparently there's a PCM being used, that will be sent somewhere. We don't even know where the second engine came from, so the 97 Firebird panache is gone. Good luck. Post some bigger better pictures with some details and you'll probably get some feedback. The 3800 engines seem pretty solid and they're everywhere. Could be a popular swap.

Bad title and wrong sub-forum. None of the RB guys will see the question.