NewZed

I'll see if I can figure it out but it's a tight fit and I don't have the urge to take things apart right now. In the meantime, you might just consider getting a typical Bosch relay with the diode already spec'ed and built in. They're very common. They even mold or print a diagram on the case, showing either a diode or a resistor or neither. I'm sure one of those would do the job and save you some time. http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

I'm going to guess it's just there for surge protection (flyback?) back through the AFM contacts when the start signal comes through. But I'm just guessing, no formal training. Here's a picture of the resistor inside the relay,1976 version (I had a broken one handy). I'll let you fconfirm the color code, I've forgotten what I never really memorized. The diagram is from the 1975 FSM Engine Fuel chapter. Edit - the internet makes things too easy... Digikey color codes. About 3 ohms, if my eye reads the colors right. Not much.

I don't think "megasquirt 2" is enough information. Lots of good stuff here - http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm

I assume it's been too wet to go do some real burnouts? It's an interesting setup, people will probably be interested in how it holds up. Did you say what you're using for the front mount? Not stock rubber and the belt?

It's not the block, it's the pistons inside. You can put negative numbers in to this calculator in the HG area, or just subtract from the stock gasket and put that in, to get an idea of what effect a shave has. Not exact once the shave gets in to the chamber's curves, but better than nothing. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

39.7 mm, mating surface to mating surface. For whatever reason I have one sitting on the work bench right now. 280Z, but they're both S30.

Figure out what your tachometer uses to count and try to replicate it. 240Z's have the coil power running through the tach, they're called "current-triggered". 280Z's have a wire dead-headed from the coil negative post. They're called "voltage-triggered". Even when people get the principles right some times the adapters don't get it done. Put 8910 or 8920 in the search box - http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx

This is why we test the electrical components and their functions at the ECU connector. The 1980 EFI Manual is the best reference for that. Covers all EFI cars up to 1980. - http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php

Only one question was identifiable. Yes. Not much to it though, thin paper.

No dutchering is evident. Just some assembly required. This should help - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

Still curious about the coil circuit. Were it my problem, I'd measure voltage at the plus and minus with the key on, then disconnect the negative post and measure again. Should be no change. There's typically other stuff on the coil negative circuit, like the tachometer. Any short that keeps current flowing can reduce or eliminate spark. The primary circuit's magnetic field has to disappear for the secondary circuit to produce a spark. That's just me parroting a variety of stuff I've picked up over he years, not a physics or electronics expert. Still, confirming the make and the break of the primary circuit will tell you something. No break, no spark. See breaker point ignition systems.

This looks like a short on the negative post circuit of the coil. Probably why Brad-Man suggested a bad ignitor. Could just be a pinched wire or bad connector. Should be about battery voltage on both sides of the coil until MS3 grounds the circuit through the BIP373. In other words, battery voltage with the key on but engine not turning, then a voltage drop when the engine is turning and spark happening.

Just curious - was it only a spark problem, or did you just do everything and it worked? Or only the electrical? Or did you find a specific part that fixed it?

The odds are good. Looks like the "right" wire. Surprised a fuse didn't blow though. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

Are you sure you have the forward-mounted diff? I get the impression that there was a retrofit available from the dealers if people reported vibration problems. Many were fixed. You can tell by looking at the angle of halfshaft with the wheel. If it angles forward, you have the original early position with the short propeller shaft. If it's perpendicular, it's the later version. Might save you some parts buying, or change what you're buying. Otherwise, it looks like a good plan. Make sure to match the diff and transmission ratios. Don't forget the speedo gear to match the diff ratio.

Actually, it looks like Loctite might have some good adhesives. Not epoxy, but cyano-acrylates, aka "super-glues". 401 looks like it might work. http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/processing/237471_LT2197_Plastic_Guide_v6_LR7911911.pdf http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/us/content_data/382071_LT3355_ASB_v19_2015.pdf Buy a cheaper manifold from a wrecking yard to practice on. Might not be exactly the same material but should have similar machining properties. Many later model cars have composite manifolds.

It's probably made of nylon or polypropylene, with glass fiber reinforcement. Difficult materials to adhere to. A mechanical fastening method might be better. You'll dull some tools on the glass, drilling holes.

A billion. Unshrouding the valves will enlarge the combustion chamber. Ponder that in your delirium. Beware "state dependent memory". A theory that you recall things best in the same state you were in when you learned them. Yes, but you'll probably get over your anger at him/her and things will get back to normal.

Use a meter and measure resistance through each signal light circuit, at the switch. If the switch is fine, the problem is somewhere else. Probably where the short is that caused your column to smoke.

Are the bushings the factory nylon or the brass ones?

Maybe a weld broke. Headers are just bent tubes welded in to a steel flange. Could be you're looking at the wrong spot. Have you torqued the header flange down on to something flat to confirm that the "bow" straightens out to a perfectly flat surface? Maybe it just unbows to a new bow shape. And don't forget that heads get bowed too.

Squirt some oil in each cylinder. That will increase compression.

Those washers are what clamp against the sleeve. And one has a bigger hole than the other. The small hole goes on the bottom. The urethane is held in between, sandwiched, but not compressed. You can get similar washers at the hardware store though. If he has stock rubber now though, he might find that the back of the diff is hanging low anyway, if they're old. Time sag.

The stock rubber mustache bar bushings let the diff move quite a bit. Grab a bar end and move it up and down, you'll see.

Where are you spraying the starting fluid? I think that you need to lift the pistons with SU's to get anything past them. Can't emphasize enough that the details matter. "tested the coil and it was 12v" doesn't mean much of anything.