NewZed

It's probably made of nylon or polypropylene, with glass fiber reinforcement. Difficult materials to adhere to. A mechanical fastening method might be better. You'll dull some tools on the glass, drilling holes.

A billion. Unshrouding the valves will enlarge the combustion chamber. Ponder that in your delirium. Beware "state dependent memory". A theory that you recall things best in the same state you were in when you learned them. Yes, but you'll probably get over your anger at him/her and things will get back to normal.

Use a meter and measure resistance through each signal light circuit, at the switch. If the switch is fine, the problem is somewhere else. Probably where the short is that caused your column to smoke.

Are the bushings the factory nylon or the brass ones?

Maybe a weld broke. Headers are just bent tubes welded in to a steel flange. Could be you're looking at the wrong spot. Have you torqued the header flange down on to something flat to confirm that the "bow" straightens out to a perfectly flat surface? Maybe it just unbows to a new bow shape. And don't forget that heads get bowed too.

Squirt some oil in each cylinder. That will increase compression.

Those washers are what clamp against the sleeve. And one has a bigger hole than the other. The small hole goes on the bottom. The urethane is held in between, sandwiched, but not compressed. You can get similar washers at the hardware store though. If he has stock rubber now though, he might find that the back of the diff is hanging low anyway, if they're old. Time sag.

The stock rubber mustache bar bushings let the diff move quite a bit. Grab a bar end and move it up and down, you'll see.

Where are you spraying the starting fluid? I think that you need to lift the pistons with SU's to get anything past them. Can't emphasize enough that the details matter. "tested the coil and it was 12v" doesn't mean much of anything.

I was thinking of the mustache bar bushings. It sits on the urethane if you have those, so you could shave the top bushing and put a big washer under the bottom to raise the back of the diff. If you have stock rubber, you'd have to grind the metal center sleeve and add washers underneath to raise it a bit since the rubber is bonded to the sleeve. Then shim up the front to match, or not since the V8's tend to need the nose down, at least when RT designed his front mount. Just thinking about moving the diff since it's attached to your problem. You obviously won't have to move it much. A set of urethane control arm bushings might also move the A-arm slightly if you still have stock rubber, or stop some of the squat.

Get a meter and and measure coil voltage with the key on. Positive terminal to ground and negative terminal to ground. Compare to battery voltage. Check the condenser, it might be shorting. Points are pretty easy to play with because you can see them, and move them by hand. You can crank the engine and watch them open and close or remove the distributor and rotate it by hand. Focus on the basics of a points ignition system.

But did it start, then not run, or not start and not run? Communication is paramount.

I just wanted to see if he had points. This is just basic engine stuff. The tach problem looks like just a bad tach, probably not related to not starting (weird that a double negative works there...). Try starting fluid. Then go to the Engine Tuneup chapter of the FSM. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/

Have you checked the diff angle? It might need adjustment anyway. Raise it and align it. A little bushing shaving and some washers would probably solve the problem and improve the angle. Even if the angle is right, a shave and some washers would probably get you where you want to be.

Remove the distributor cap, take a picture of what's under it, and post it here.

Many would say that you have a whole set of weak links, from your 240Z hub axles, through the 930 CV's, to the R180 (small ring gear) diff (used - who knows what the PO did to it). What you're really asking is a general question about a how Type B (I just found this, see below, not an expert) Torsen type differential fails. "How do Torsens fail?". If the Sti R180 is that style (assume that you saw those parts when you had it open). https://www.jtekt.co.jp/e/products/lsd.html

You haven't mentioned desired ride height or shock travel. You can use almost any brand of shock you want, apparently, and pick your ride quality level. It's on their web site. http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=63

Yes, that diagram is not for your tach. Just run one wire to coil negative, forget about the tach sensor wire. Your tach is on the positive side, don't worry about it. If you're lucky it will work fine.

Not a Subie expert either, but aren't those boosted numbers from AWD cars? Divide by two?

It's just popular opinion. You're the guinea pig. Report results. So far you're supporting the prevailing view. R180 > LS1 > burnout > horrible noises.

I'd crawl under and look for loose parts first. Could be the burnout had nothing to do with the noise. Interesting setup. People will be curious. Some have already said the R180 is too small for that power level. Post pictures.

If you're connecting black (ground) directly to the negative post then yes, wrong wire. Black connects to the distributor body. Run a new wire from the coil negative to the C terminal on the E12-80 module.

No answers here, but how big are your tires, how dry were the roads, how much torque do you think your LS1 is producing, and what gear were you in when you stomped the throttle? And was there anywheel hop? Just to fill out the critical data list. And, just for fun, what happens if you give it gas in reverse? Might give a clue.

You either have a short in the E12-80 module or a wire connected wrong. With the key on and engine not spinning you should have battery voltage on both sides of the coil. The 3 bolt drop is because the negative post is connected to ground. Recheck the circuit from the negative post of the coil. Make sure that "tach sensor" wire in your zgarage link has resistance.

The stuff inside the plastic cover. Take the screws out and remove it. Careful with the top piece, you have to maneuver it so you don't break the corners off. Don't miss the small screw in the bottom middle. The ring around the ignition switch will pop out about 1/8 inch to give you extra room.