NewZed

Sounds like the stator or magnet or pickup coil in the distributor itself is broken or the wires have shorted. Download a 280ZX FSM and look in the Electrical chapter to see how to test those parts, or disassemble the distributor. In short, you probably have a bad distributor. Is it used? The bushings wear out in the ZX distributors, allowing the reluctor wheel to hit the pickup coil points. Here's a good description. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Just curious. What about the other guys? ZCarDepot and SilverMine? And Chequered Flag (Joe@ModernMotorsports's business)?

Maybe he needs another reach out. It's been almost 6 weeks.

Edited - the credit card charge challenging process requires oversight. I don't think that it's a given that the consumer always gets their money back. It's a process. If it was a U.S. business you could sue them in small claims court, report them to the attorney general in the state they are registered in, and also report them to the Better Business Bureau. Those are all remedies/actions for the consumer to take against companies that do not fulfill their obligations. Which is what Whitehead is doing here. But they're in Canada and the US Attorney General's office has a lot of other things going on right now. If a business needs a loan they should go to a financial institution. Whitehead has taken this person's money and is using at as collateral for loans or to stay afloat, paying their own bills. Often, what is happening here is a precursor to bankruptcy. Business will take consumers' money, use it to pay salaries, etc., delay as long as possible, then claim bankruptcy, leaving the consumer screwed. As JMortensen said though, there is a time limit. That should have been a sign, that Whitehead was stringing you along for a reason. They know about the time limit too. All in all, it's not a good sign. Looks like Whitehead is in trouble. Avoid them, until they either get back in shape or go under. https://whiteheadperformance.com/about-us/ Philosophy We are a customer service driven company We’ve built up and maintained our reputation over the last 30+ years by providing honest and friendly service, by going that extra mile to make sure our customers are happy and 100% satisfied with the work performed on their vehicles. It is no different today. Customer service is our number one priority.

Why didn't you just use the stock valve covers? Didn't you still have to redo things with the taller Holley cover? Just curious. What is the benefit of the Holley cover over the stock cover in the first place?

The wiring diagram might help. Looks like both wires get power so turning the key on won't tell you anything. One wire is the ground for the CSV and the other wire is the power to the internal heater in the thermotime switch. If you still have the bullet connectors in the harness you could use those to figure it out. One pin of the switch will have resistance from the internal heater (the curly line in the drawing). The other one will be very low resistance since it supplies the ground for the CSV through the switching portion. Measure resistance through the pins to ground, then connect the male bullet wire to the one with low/no resistance. Or, disconnect the CSV, turn the key on, and the wire that has power will be #47, from the relay. Which is connected to #45 at the terminal and would go to the side of the switch with resistance.

Just go ahead and start a thread with a big For Sale in the title. If it catches someone's eye they'll follow-up, if not your diff will get sold. You paid, so you have a legitimate usage of the site to sell parts, per the agreement as a member. Not really sure what's happening with the site. I think that SuperDan has lost interest. Or maybe something has happened to him. Classiczcars.com has a Parts for Sale page, and they like LSD diffs too. Good luck.

I think that what you're proposing is not the way that most people would get to a larger booster. Which is really all that you're trying to do. Swapping to a completely different pedal box to get a bigger booster seems like a more difficult path than necessary.

This part sounds like a failing ignition module. They overheat and stop working then start working after they cool off. Often they will stop working after getting the engine up to higher RPM. That's one way to test it, run it up to high RPM, watch the tachometer needle for weird behavior and see if it keeps running. This part is normal. Those lights are supposed to be on when the engine is not running, but the key is on. They should both turn off when the engine starts.

It's been two days and the people who donated still haven't been acknowledged. The site seems to be on autopilot, nobody's at the helm.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131736-account-shows-no-donations-after-i-made-one/?do=findComment&comment=1229246

@tube80z or @SuperDan can fix it.

Put some jackstands under the rear control arms, start it up, and run it through the gears. Don't do it with the wheels hanging the u-joints will probably bind from the angle.

That's going to be a 3.54 ratio open diff. Not even close.

Here's a sampling from a commercial vendor. https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/240z-260z-280z-r180-r200-diff-differential-lsd-limited-slip/

I've never done it but I've seen that most of the big cam shops can recommend a cam based on parts and plans. Probably also the drive gears and other odds and ends. They want people to call. https://www.compcams.com/products/comp-camshafts.html

Actually, 76 does have a top gear switch actuated solenoid that controls the vacuum to the vacuum advance module on the distributor. One of those emissions things. There are a lot of different 5 speeds out there. Some of the ZX 5 speeds have neutral, top gear, reverse, and overdrive switches, at least the FSM says they do. I removed my top gear solenoid when I got a 5 speed and just let the vacuum advance happen in all gears. Ran great. Just connect the hoses or run a new one to the same port on the TB. I think I've seen it described somewhere in the FSM but can't find it. It's in the wiring diagram also though. Underlined the two parts connected.

You might also pull the distributor to see if the drive gear is damaged. Apparently they get damaged often if the wrong gear material is chosen. Here's a good story. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/selecting-the-correct-distributor-gear-its-all-about-the-details/

No need to apologize. It doesn't sound like you need a new distributor. Your mechanic is suggesting that the distributor timing is off. The chevy small block distributor is driven by the camshaft, which is driven by the timing chain. It sounds like your mechanic thinks that you've lost cam and distributor because the timing chain or timing gear is not working right. That fits with the fuel spitting back through the carburetor. The valves aren't opening and closing correctly. Unfortunately it might also mean bent valves. A simple way to check would be to measure cylinder pressure. If you get the same numbers from each cylinder then you might be able to fix the timing chain/gear and be okay. If you have bent valves you'll probably get some zero pressure cylinders. Good luck. Be prepared for bad news though.

People probably saw your other post. You wrote a lot of stuff but it looks like you just want to know which distributor you should buy. Your new post has the same misspellings and bad grammar and run-on punctuation. Really hard to read. Couldn't you have spruced it up a little bit? Looks like you drank ten cups of coffee before writing it. Why don't just fix the one you have? It's just a small block chevy distributor.

I think that the answer is the same. If that's a 240Z axle swap to a 280Z axle. You'll need a new companion flange. Looks like zcardepot has a 39 spline option but might not have the companion flange you need. Chequered Flag (he owns Modern Motorsports now) used to have a long wait time or certain order size before he makes his parts. There's a variety of possibilities out there. Not sure that any are simple. Good luck. https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/outer-axle-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=1&_sid=6cde3c5c6&_ss=r http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/drivetrain-26/240z-260z-280z-oem-rear-stub-axles-4-lug-with-companion-flanges https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/cv-conversion-stub-axles-companion-flanges/

I thought they were in this one. My mistake. Still, the same thoughts about criticizing apply. Be careful. Sorry tube, I got my Apex threads confused.

I just thought it would be good to see the progress on Hybridz. The point of the thread. Good luck.

I was joking about the fact that the last two months worth of posts have been erased, apparently because they were too critical of the product. Only positive posts are allowed now, apparently, and yours was suggesting that people might not have the fitment that they thought were going to get. It might be too much, I guess we'll find out.

Careful.... you're getting close to the edge there. Can you post the Instagram links? Are they "unboxing" videos?