NewZed

There is no thermometer on a ZX.

I found a picture of some on the internet. The slot is right next the sheath and the side on the right in the picture snaps over the edge of the metal framework. Might need a thin blade and some lubrication to get it off. Don't break it. https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-280z-oem-climate-control-cable-anchor-clips

There is a metal clip that holds the cable sheath down. One end fits in to a small slot and the other snaps in to a different slot or over the edge of the assembly. Can't remember. Pop the clip up and remove it, then lift the sheath up to get the end of the cable out of the hole. In reverse it would be insert the cable end in to the hole, lay the cable and sheath flat, then insert the clip and clamp the sheath down. The clip is outlined in green here. I outlined the metal clip here.

It's from the Factory Service Manual, Engine Fuel chapter. You can download it from the ClassicZcars.com site. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

It might be the pipe to the air regulator heating block. The air regulator sits on an aluminum plate with coolant running through it. The plate gets hot and keeps the regulator closed. Probably hard to get to but all you need to do is replace the hoses. Here's a picture of the regulator. It has two large air hoses that connect on each side. The plate is underneath.

Where, exactly, is the interference? You're implying that it's close to the flange, just wondering if you have confirmed that, or assumed. The kit is new. All of the aftermarket guys say that their stuff works but there are many cases over the years where the customers are actually beta testers. The ZStore had problems with their new Koni shocks, even though said that they had tested them thoroughly. It's just how new product development goes. Their "engineer" might have only tried one set of wheels. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21l/24-5717

Found one! https://www.guyswithrides.com/2019/12/30/1983-chevrolet-camaro-z-28/

John Coffey explored the myth of the shorter half-shaft. He died a few years ago though and it looks like the Facebook post is no longer active. I did find an old Hybridz post about it though, with the text copied over. Basically, they are all the same. The question about R200 width in the 240Z is discussed too though, but it's never r really been cleared up. But there were subtle changes in the half-shafts over the years. There's a bunch of part numbers. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft

Taking orders is not the problem. Completing them is. https://youtu.be/4T2GmGSNvaM?t=36

Apparently they have moved to a different location. Wonder if they'll make it. https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/ https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/photos/pb.159803257857337.-2207520000../1171773006660352/?type=3&theater

You can. Somebody removed some of the cover bolts for some reason. Might be a good idea to drain the fluid if it's a wrecking yard, they have to do that. You might want to pull the cover and take a good look inside before buying. Look for chipped gears, burned bearings, etc. You can pop the side axles with a big screwdriver or tire iron. Sometimes you need a wedge, like a cold chisel to get them started they can be really tight. Check the bearing seat and seal surfaces on the axles for scorching and wear. People run them low on fluid sometimes. Your R180 bolts are the same I think so you can use those on the cover if you get it.

The breaker plate is the part that rotates when vacuum advance is applied. It moves the pickup coil in relation to the distributor shaft to advance the timing. The distributor shaft itself can rotate freely but the breaker plate can be locked to it instead of free. Easiest way to check is to remove the vacuum advance canister and gently try to rotate the plate. If the balls are rusted in place you might break the plastic cage so be careful. Think about advance curves also. There the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance. Once you get in to them there's all kinds of small details to worry about.

Forgot to say, have you checked the breaker plate on the distributor? Often they get locked up or broken and don't rotate anymore. You could use a 280Z distributor in its place. Or a 280ZX unit. The ignition module on your 260Z is one of the very first models and those old ignition modules fail on a regular basis. In short, consider the sum of the parts involved. And, the early electronic ignitions were not "high energy". They were just points replacements. Same plug gap,. 1978 was the first high-energy ignition module.

Looks like they are definitely different parts from the 280Z parts. Probably just the way it mounts on the breaker plate. If you could get a 280Z coil to mount next to the reluctor wheel correctly you'd probably be fine. Might be worth an experiment if you can get an old 280Z pickup to try. Here's the 260Z part numbers. Different from 280Z. Part #7. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/260z Here's 280Z. #9. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/280z

Your halfshafts will bolt up. I was thinking of the stub axles, which are different for the R180's. But, if you can get the halfshafts for a decent price they're good to have as spares. People with V8's break those too.

Never mind. Blew it up myself, looks like an r200. Somebody already converted to R200. I think, based on the lack of side bolts. Ask for the half shafts too.

It's an R180 isn't it? Stupid Facebook photos don't blow up. Can't tell. 1972 240Z.

AydinZ71 is right, I didn't look at your picture. You already have it. Your drive (propeller) shaft will work. The distance for an R180 and an R200 is the same. They are the same length. One area where you can get screwed up is if the R200 is from a 1975 280Z. For whatever reason Nissan used a different bolt pattern for the pinion flange in 1975 only. If you can find out it might save you some trouble.

The Facebook R200 seems like a decent deal. Axles, half-shafts included for $200. Probably close to what you'd pay in wrecking yard prices today. I mentioned gear ratios in your other thread but with a V8 you could probably use a taller gear anyway. The torque doesn't need the low 3.9 and you'll get better cruising RPM with a 3.54. You only need an R200 diff mount and the curved cross-piece for the suspension drop-downs(to clear the bigger diff cover) to complete the package, I think, but should probably get something like the Technoversion RT mount to handle the power, if you don't have one already. https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html Here's your other thread.

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You might need the halfshafts too, depending on which R180 you have, can't remember the details. Easiest would be to find a 76-78 junked 280Z and scavenge the parts. Sometimes you can get the whole car for less than the collection of parts. If you have to piecemeal it, the 280ZX's up 1983 (including) use an R200. Some use an R180 so you have to check to be sure. Check the ratios also. You might have a 3.9 now, but many R200's are 3.54.

Did you get new parts or used? The E12 modules are old and failing. You can use the red and green wires in the ZX distributor to run a GM HEI module.

Scroll down to the April 10 post here. Should have done some reading before you ordered. He is incommunicado. Good luck. Cancel that credit card charge if you can. S

Sounds like the stator or magnet or pickup coil in the distributor itself is broken or the wires have shorted. Download a 280ZX FSM and look in the Electrical chapter to see how to test those parts, or disassemble the distributor. In short, you probably have a bad distributor. Is it used? The bushings wear out in the ZX distributors, allowing the reluctor wheel to hit the pickup coil points. Here's a good description. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

Just curious. What about the other guys? ZCarDepot and SilverMine? And Chequered Flag (Joe@ModernMotorsports's business)?