NewZed

This part sounds like a failing ignition module. They overheat and stop working then start working after they cool off. Often they will stop working after getting the engine up to higher RPM. That's one way to test it, run it up to high RPM, watch the tachometer needle for weird behavior and see if it keeps running. This part is normal. Those lights are supposed to be on when the engine is not running, but the key is on. They should both turn off when the engine starts.

It's been two days and the people who donated still haven't been acknowledged. The site seems to be on autopilot, nobody's at the helm.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131736-account-shows-no-donations-after-i-made-one/?do=findComment&comment=1229246

@tube80z or @SuperDan can fix it.

Put some jackstands under the rear control arms, start it up, and run it through the gears. Don't do it with the wheels hanging the u-joints will probably bind from the angle.

That's going to be a 3.54 ratio open diff. Not even close.

Here's a sampling from a commercial vendor. https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/240z-260z-280z-r180-r200-diff-differential-lsd-limited-slip/

I've never done it but I've seen that most of the big cam shops can recommend a cam based on parts and plans. Probably also the drive gears and other odds and ends. They want people to call. https://www.compcams.com/products/comp-camshafts.html

Actually, 76 does have a top gear switch actuated solenoid that controls the vacuum to the vacuum advance module on the distributor. One of those emissions things. There are a lot of different 5 speeds out there. Some of the ZX 5 speeds have neutral, top gear, reverse, and overdrive switches, at least the FSM says they do. I removed my top gear solenoid when I got a 5 speed and just let the vacuum advance happen in all gears. Ran great. Just connect the hoses or run a new one to the same port on the TB. I think I've seen it described somewhere in the FSM but can't find it. It's in the wiring diagram also though. Underlined the two parts connected.

You might also pull the distributor to see if the drive gear is damaged. Apparently they get damaged often if the wrong gear material is chosen. Here's a good story. https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/selecting-the-correct-distributor-gear-its-all-about-the-details/

No need to apologize. It doesn't sound like you need a new distributor. Your mechanic is suggesting that the distributor timing is off. The chevy small block distributor is driven by the camshaft, which is driven by the timing chain. It sounds like your mechanic thinks that you've lost cam and distributor because the timing chain or timing gear is not working right. That fits with the fuel spitting back through the carburetor. The valves aren't opening and closing correctly. Unfortunately it might also mean bent valves. A simple way to check would be to measure cylinder pressure. If you get the same numbers from each cylinder then you might be able to fix the timing chain/gear and be okay. If you have bent valves you'll probably get some zero pressure cylinders. Good luck. Be prepared for bad news though.

People probably saw your other post. You wrote a lot of stuff but it looks like you just want to know which distributor you should buy. Your new post has the same misspellings and bad grammar and run-on punctuation. Really hard to read. Couldn't you have spruced it up a little bit? Looks like you drank ten cups of coffee before writing it. Why don't just fix the one you have? It's just a small block chevy distributor.

I think that the answer is the same. If that's a 240Z axle swap to a 280Z axle. You'll need a new companion flange. Looks like zcardepot has a 39 spline option but might not have the companion flange you need. Chequered Flag (he owns Modern Motorsports now) used to have a long wait time or certain order size before he makes his parts. There's a variety of possibilities out there. Not sure that any are simple. Good luck. https://zcardepot.com/collections/rear-axle-and-differential/products/outer-axle-racing-chromoly-240z-260z-280z-70-78?_pos=1&_sid=6cde3c5c6&_ss=r http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/drivetrain-26/240z-260z-280z-oem-rear-stub-axles-4-lug-with-companion-flanges https://whiteheadperformance.com/performance-parts/datsun-240z-260z-280z-parts/cv-conversion-stub-axles-companion-flanges/

I thought they were in this one. My mistake. Still, the same thoughts about criticizing apply. Be careful. Sorry tube, I got my Apex threads confused.

I just thought it would be good to see the progress on Hybridz. The point of the thread. Good luck.

I was joking about the fact that the last two months worth of posts have been erased, apparently because they were too critical of the product. Only positive posts are allowed now, apparently, and yours was suggesting that people might not have the fitment that they thought were going to get. It might be too much, I guess we'll find out.

Careful.... you're getting close to the edge there. Can you post the Instagram links? Are they "unboxing" videos?

My mistake, although it might still be right. Back to positive thoughts anyway. Carry on and good luck.

Heat works well. If you have a heat gun you won't have to worry about leaked oil or undercoating catching on fire. But, people use torches to remove that plug all the time. It makes a big difference. You don't have to get it red hot, to where the fluid or gasket get damaged. Focus the flame around the plug but not on it.

What would the mods mod? This forum is its own thing. Facebook is a whole different ecosystem. There's a discussion happening here, which is what forums are for. Facebook is people posting about random things that they like. I went through the first six Facebook links and found projects in progress and private Facebook groups. I didn't learn anything about the products. Ohmster says he will be fine, that Hybridz is a small community and Facebook is large. Doesn't seem like he needs help. People know where to look now for more information. No need to do any moderating here. It's just a thread of experiences and opinions. Everything seems honest.

@ohmster101 Equal time. How are things going?

He's still forging ahead with new products, taking orders and deposits too, you'd assume. Wants your stimulus money. https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/ https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/photos/a.169350783569251/1006884353149219/?type=3&theater

The heart of the problem is here. Ohmster did not "make things right". He, apparently, gave up on a customer and left them paying for his poor work. If Ohmster really is inundated with orders then he should have chalked this one off as the cost of development, to be made up on future successful orders filled. But, again, apparently, he's using the customer's money to support his development costs. So, these types of stories are valuable and are the reason forums like Hybridz exist. The possible causes of the difficulties are many but how Ohmster handles the problems will determine if his business succeeds. These uncomfortable stories help people decide if they want to take that risk, or if they just want to "donate" their money to a growing business. Nobody can fairly complain about the guy that reported a bad experience. They're doing the unsuspecting future customer a favor. So far, there are numerous delayed orders, some bad axles, and one "completed" order that left a customer dissatisfied. Time will tell, hopefully, if things get better. A person would think that at least one or two other people out there had received their complete subframe orders by now. Feel free to add your story if you have one.

Ohmster already said what the issues were. It's not a COVID or supplier or outsourcing issue. And he's an engineer, he says, so the issues with fixturing and fit should have been foreseen and manageable. He's just a guy who took on a big challenge, to start a business, to make money, and he's having problems. No free passes in a free market economy. The poor spelling is a bad sign, in general. Attention to detail. These stories have been told before. Hope he makes it. He's the only one that can make it work. So far, nobody has reported a successful installation of this kit. He needs to get some good product delivered. Bad product delivered is not going to work, obviously. Good luck Ohmster.

Relays aren't a bad idea, in general. But the V8 versus L6 issue only matters to the battery cables. The small wire only powers the solenoid, which actually has its own relay at the end of the stroke. Minor point. Maybe Chevy used a bigger solenoid and draws more current. Or maybe Chevy has a bigger safety margin. But it's the solenoid draw that would matter.