NewZed

I was responding more to gnosez's comment about "over-thinking". He has a tone of superiority, but really he's just a guy who decided to use a bolt, apparently because it's easier and cheaper. Nothing really superior about that. It's just a choice. The whole point of these forums is to generate things to think about, but the value of those things is opinion.

Most of the discussion about the spindle pin and locking bolt is about why Nissan did things that way. And, as often mentioned, just because something didn't fail doesn't mean it's better. There are many areas on the Z where you could just use a cable or a chain or drill a hole and use a bolt. In the end the car owner needs to know what they're trying accomplish and take responsibility. The internet is full of all kinds of starting points to think about but it can't decide for you no matter how many posts are posted.

It's the cost of parts needed to bring up the value that will get you. Nickels and dimes. Mustangs and Chevys have a huge aftermarket network making parts. The 280ZX, not so much. If you're really thinking about investment then a simple spreadsheet of costs should throw some light on it. Here's a couple of web sites that sells ZX parts, for starters. You could probably just get it running and clean it up for a small profit. But restoration will be expensive. http://www.zcarparts.com/ https://zcardepot.com/collections/280zx Look at the quality versus price on your future competition and estimate how much you will have to spend to get there. Good luck. https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/280zx/

You can almost certainly get it running but almost nobody makes a profit restoring these old cars. Get it running >>> yes, make a profit >>> not likely.

Actually, he does have a kit. I didn't go far enough down the page. https://zcardepot.com/products/r200-differential-rebuild-bearing-seal-kit-280z-280zx-300zx?_pos=61&_sid=f9b96a786&_ss=r

I've never seen a kit. This guy, below, has parts you might need. They're pretty durable and don't often even need rebuilding. The Factory Service Manual has a section on rebuilding the diff. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=differential&type=product

https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pump-drive-spindle-oem-280zx-turbo-81-83?_pos=17&_sid=d035dc3a5&_ss=r

I always thought that they were connected but never figured out exactly how. I would have put this in the other post but there is no Edit function.

That's not good. The BrokenKitty site is still active. http://www.brokenkitty.com/index.htm

Does it have stock drums in back, and disc up front? Might be that the PO went with a different MC bore if he did some brake mods. Since the MC is not what came on the car it might be that it's already "newish". It looks new. If things work right, maybe just leave it alone.

Looks like you're missing the spacer/adapter also that goes between the booster and MC. https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-master-cylinder-booster-aluminum-spacer-plate-240z-260z-280z?variant=19279175647345&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAyc2BBhAaEiwA44-wW3ZsP-H-fUnyxq-qimqBGJrRq33HmeIh_yfhvkh2NYyYrS1l8tYQjRoC0U8QAvD_BwE

This is the 280Z with the 3UZ swap? You should put your car info in a sig or just mention it every time. Looks like the PO had some skills and made a different master cylinder work. That stack of washers on the top bolt is a clue. Try to find out if the booster is correct for the car and look at 280Z master cylinders.

Don't overlook the LSX engines. Fairly lightweight and powerful. And transmissions. That's the other spendy part about more power and different engines. And rear end. Big torque and sticky tires and you'll want more back there.

If you browse around you'll find that the "turbo" motor is really only different in that it uses the P90 head, which has no liners in the exhaust ports, a J pipe, and a turbo exhaust manifold. People have bolted the turbo parts on to either of the other NA engines and made them work just fine using aftermarket engine management. If you want to make 350+ HP you'll need aftermarket engine management. So, all you really need are the J pipe and the exhaust manifold from a 280ZX. There might even be aftermarket suppliers for those parts. That's how I'd break it down. Just see what you can find and started piecing things together. If you find a whole car and the price is right, why not? The rest depends on how deep you plan to go in to the engine. Too many possibilities to make a recommendation. Here's a member who has some opinions. But, if you're like most people who start a project your plans will change along the way. you just need a jump off point.

Here's some stuff. Still relevant, but there's newer engine management now. It came from here: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

And the Multi quote function.

It sleeps with the Edit function, apparently. And the fishes.

Nope, nor Edit'ing allowed. Bumer. Ioriinc.

Thanks Super Dan, it seems to work. Let's see if the Edit function is back. I hate to let my misspellings sit uncorrected.

Hey Michael I feel like I should pseudo-apologize. I am not a real moderator. One of the real ones (RTz) gave me the "clandestine" title a few years ago because I like to get involved and help solve problems. But, I don't have any real power, and your message won't reach me. But, your message should reach SuperDan and I think that he is safe with your email address. p.s. my post "what is your email address?" was directed at SuperDan, since he didn't supply it. At this point there is no way to communicate with anyone on the site except through posts on the main forums. No messaging allowed. The site is having some problems.

Even your own. And the Edit button is gone.

Clicking on anyone's avatar gives the 500 error.

Try the Contact Us at the bottom of the page.

What is your email address?

There are two levels of diagnostics. One is just measuring simple continuity the other is taking resistance measurements. The numbers are much better than the n.g. test. Anyway, one thing that could be causing your problem is a blown fuel pressure regulator. You'll only see it if you remove the vacuum hose from the FPR. Raw fuel can pass right through it in to the manifold, if it's blown.