NewZed

To jonbill's point, below. And if you post a picture of a few cam lobes a guess could be made about whether it's been reground or not.

One "trick" to increase cam lift is to run tighter lash. But it's dangerous, if a valve doesn't close completely it can burn/warp. Another possibility is "sunken" valves. Early gasoline had lead in it which lubricated the valve seats. When the lead was removed valve seat wear increased dramatically. It's not uncommon to find sunk valves on 240Z's, as I understand things. So, could be intentional, could be valve seat wear.

They're still working as the wheel drops in to depressions or one side of the car lifts. That's how progressive rate springs work, the weaker end will collapse faster than the stronger end. The problem people have is that the rates are wrong between front and back. With PU bushings there is no lifting effect from the bushing. So, it doesn't matter when you tighten the bolts and nuts. I think it's just a bad product. I don't know why people keep buying them. That's why MSA keeps selling them, because people keep buying.

You could have a 78 car or system, or a 78 engine and the sender wasn't swapped. But the two prong sender/switches were used from 78 on in to the ZX's. Might be that you got a late 77 with a 78 system. What is the build date of your car? It should be on the plate on the door jamb. Here is the 1978 system.

This comes up so often that it might get overlooked - make sure you tighten the suspension components with the car on the ground if you loosened, removed, or replaced any bushings. The factory bushings provided some "spring" to the suspension. And, because of that, if you wanted to get tricky, you could have a heavy friend sit on the front while you tighten the bushing bolts and nuts. The bushings will help hold it down. Edit - or you could lift the back while tightening. This is only an issue, and will only work, with the factory rubber bushings.

The Eibach springs seem to have more problems than any of the others. They're just inconsistent. Some sit too high, some sit too low, many sit too high in the front. some too high in the back. These stories have been cropping up for years and years. MSA keeps selling them and people keep having problems. Looks like some numbers might have changed slightly but it's still Eibach and MSA. https://www.zcar.com/threads/240-too-low-w-eibach-springs.293086/ Discussion Starter • #1 • Nov 6, 2009 Just recently got my 71' back on the ground. Installed Tokico HP Struts w/ the Eibach PR Springs from MSA. The front looks good, but the rear scrubs the tires (195/70R14) on any dip or bump. I have been searching alot on this issue. Most of the time it seems the springs were reversed or upside down. It is just not the case for me. Here's the rundown: Contacted MSA to verify proper installation: They state part # 6305.001 are the front springs and 6305.002 are the rear -- I can see the numbers on the front and they match. They state shorter coils should be at the top -- they are. They state the longer spring should be in the rear -- as I remember they were. However, I found one post where someone stated the longer springs went in the front???

Check the vacuum advance breaker plate while it's out. The ball bearings get rusty and stick. Don't force it, the plastic bearing retainer will break. Some people don't use vacuum advance with carbs but if you do you'll want it to move freely.

Mistake.

Never mind.

There's a whole deep discussion about that over on CZCC. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64195-rear-control-arm-bush-alignment/?tab=comments#comment-602505

You should show a picture of your distributor, not pictures from the internet. There's something odd about what you're describing. It sounds like you haven't even pulled the distributor. If you have the pedestal mounting bolts out just pull up and the distributor will come out. It should not be complicated, at all. Most people call this the pedestal, not a "bracket".

Here's another showing the plane of separation between the part that turns and the part that doesn't.

You're trying to turn the wrong part. Loosen the single screw, Phillips head, holding the distributor plate to the pedestal. Then the distributor will turn. The two bolts hold the pedestal down. Those are often sealed with gasket sealer since they have oil underneath. It's not meant to turn. Here is one of your pictures with a circle showing where the screw is. It should be easy to see.

Thanks. Never heard of them. Actually I've heard of Datsunworks. Lost track of it though. http://datsunworks.com/ https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/ https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/drivetrain

Do you have a web site? Could put it in your sig. Don't know where to see your products.

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My post was actually directed at primaz. He never really defined what he wants a different transmission for. So really it's just about options. Best for what? Sounds like mostly long term usage and maintenance, planning ahead. Good idea. Why I had three spares of various forms in my garage. Once you get deeper in to it you have to worry about ratios also.

There used to be a rule on the site that there is no "best". Your choice depends on your plans. You haven't defined your plans, so really, your thread is just about what choices there are.

This is a good one, but I don't think you can get new 240SX 5 speeds anymore. Maybe you can if you find the right dealer. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm

Notice though, that the diagram says switch. I think that's a typo since the diagram is for the oil pressure gauge. The switch is described in the Engine Fuel section under fuel pump operation.

Looks like the one with the yellow wire with black stripe. The other prong is a switch for the fuel pump relay.

Not so sure that means your gauge is fine. Why would it slowly drop to zero? Kind of sounds like the bimetal strip heats up and causes the slowly drops to zero part. If I read the description right you should be able to connect an ohm-meter to the pressure sensor side and see resistance change when you start the engine. Not sure where it starts though. These old gauges have some odd operating features. Internal voltage regulator, for example. I think its purpose is to correct for voltage changes as the alternator kicks in and out. Maybe this will give you a clue. Here's a thought, that might tell you if it's the gauge. Disconnect the pressure sensor, open circuit. Turn the key on. If the needle does the rise and drop thing it almost certainly has to be the gauge, or the wires. Check your wires for short circuits to ground.

This looks like advice to me...

Taking the advice of someone who has found a way around the law, or thinks he has, doesn't seem like a good idea. Plus he has a 71 so he might think that he knows a guy, but his car gets a pass on most of the emissions rules. Your 78 does not. Better figure it out before you spend too much money. Plus - new administration in D.C. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/vehicle-registration/smog-inspections/ Your vehicle does not need a smog inspection if your: Gasoline-powered vehicle is a 1975 year model or older (This includes motorcycles and trailers.) Diesel-powered vehicle is a 1997 and older year model OR with a Gross Vehicle Weight of more than 14,000 pounds. Powered by natural gas and weighs more than 14,000 pounds. An electric vehicle. Gasoline-powered and less than four model years old

what year car