NewZed

You're right. That was in the back of my mind, the question has come up before, because on the 280Z's they run it through a relay. I kind of knew it was wrong when I posted it, should have held off. Not sure why they would change to constant power wires over the engine. But, apparently, they did, they show it twice. Doesn't make sense. Continue with the 20 questions... 1982 1978

Sorry, is that a question or a statement? Power should be off when the key is off.

Yes. The injectors have power when the key is on and they open when the circuit is grounded by the ECU. Both sides of the injector plugs will have power because it's a parallel circuit. Unless you measure with all six injectors unplugged.

FSM = Factory Service Manual. Meter = electrical multimeter. Must haves for working on any EFI car. EFI = electronic fuel injection. Good luck. It's difficult at the beginning but well worth the time. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Use-and-Choose-a-Multimeter/

If the engine runs there's a ground for the injectors. Use the FSM and a meter. You can't get far without doing basic electrical testing on the EFI systems. Download the FSM and the 1980 EFI guide. Use the Engine Fuel and Emissions chapter. The EFI harness has its own ground point. Test at the ECU connector. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/ https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Compatibility with what? http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html

Check your grounds, in the EFI wiring harness and at the ECU. The injectors need current flow. Might be that you have only enough to run 5 injectors at idle, and the test light provides just enough extra current to get it to rev. Bad grounds = low current.

Did you grease the half-shaft u-joints while you had things apart. Easier but you can still do it while they're in the car. They'll last about forever if you keep them greased. Tighter, more precise, than aftermarket. There's a thin head screw that covers the Zerk hole.

It's small in the drawing, but this would be the part. It's factory. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/83

It's a damper for diff noise and vibration. Many people take them off.

There is no thermometer on a ZX.

I found a picture of some on the internet. The slot is right next the sheath and the side on the right in the picture snaps over the edge of the metal framework. Might need a thin blade and some lubrication to get it off. Don't break it. https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-280z-oem-climate-control-cable-anchor-clips

There is a metal clip that holds the cable sheath down. One end fits in to a small slot and the other snaps in to a different slot or over the edge of the assembly. Can't remember. Pop the clip up and remove it, then lift the sheath up to get the end of the cable out of the hole. In reverse it would be insert the cable end in to the hole, lay the cable and sheath flat, then insert the clip and clamp the sheath down. The clip is outlined in green here. I outlined the metal clip here.

It's from the Factory Service Manual, Engine Fuel chapter. You can download it from the ClassicZcars.com site. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

It might be the pipe to the air regulator heating block. The air regulator sits on an aluminum plate with coolant running through it. The plate gets hot and keeps the regulator closed. Probably hard to get to but all you need to do is replace the hoses. Here's a picture of the regulator. It has two large air hoses that connect on each side. The plate is underneath.

Where, exactly, is the interference? You're implying that it's close to the flange, just wondering if you have confirmed that, or assumed. The kit is new. All of the aftermarket guys say that their stuff works but there are many cases over the years where the customers are actually beta testers. The ZStore had problems with their new Koni shocks, even though said that they had tested them thoroughly. It's just how new product development goes. Their "engineer" might have only tried one set of wheels. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21l/24-5717

Found one! https://www.guyswithrides.com/2019/12/30/1983-chevrolet-camaro-z-28/

John Coffey explored the myth of the shorter half-shaft. He died a few years ago though and it looks like the Facebook post is no longer active. I did find an old Hybridz post about it though, with the text copied over. Basically, they are all the same. The question about R200 width in the 240Z is discussed too though, but it's never r really been cleared up. But there were subtle changes in the half-shafts over the years. There's a bunch of part numbers. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft

Taking orders is not the problem. Completing them is. https://youtu.be/4T2GmGSNvaM?t=36

Apparently they have moved to a different location. Wonder if they'll make it. https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/ https://www.facebook.com/apexengineered/photos/pb.159803257857337.-2207520000../1171773006660352/?type=3&theater

You can. Somebody removed some of the cover bolts for some reason. Might be a good idea to drain the fluid if it's a wrecking yard, they have to do that. You might want to pull the cover and take a good look inside before buying. Look for chipped gears, burned bearings, etc. You can pop the side axles with a big screwdriver or tire iron. Sometimes you need a wedge, like a cold chisel to get them started they can be really tight. Check the bearing seat and seal surfaces on the axles for scorching and wear. People run them low on fluid sometimes. Your R180 bolts are the same I think so you can use those on the cover if you get it.

The breaker plate is the part that rotates when vacuum advance is applied. It moves the pickup coil in relation to the distributor shaft to advance the timing. The distributor shaft itself can rotate freely but the breaker plate can be locked to it instead of free. Easiest way to check is to remove the vacuum advance canister and gently try to rotate the plate. If the balls are rusted in place you might break the plastic cage so be careful. Think about advance curves also. There the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance. Once you get in to them there's all kinds of small details to worry about.

Forgot to say, have you checked the breaker plate on the distributor? Often they get locked up or broken and don't rotate anymore. You could use a 280Z distributor in its place. Or a 280ZX unit. The ignition module on your 260Z is one of the very first models and those old ignition modules fail on a regular basis. In short, consider the sum of the parts involved. And, the early electronic ignitions were not "high energy". They were just points replacements. Same plug gap,. 1978 was the first high-energy ignition module.

Looks like they are definitely different parts from the 280Z parts. Probably just the way it mounts on the breaker plate. If you could get a 280Z coil to mount next to the reluctor wheel correctly you'd probably be fine. Might be worth an experiment if you can get an old 280Z pickup to try. Here's the 260Z part numbers. Different from 280Z. Part #7. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/260z Here's 280Z. #9. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/distributor/280z

Your halfshafts will bolt up. I was thinking of the stub axles, which are different for the R180's. But, if you can get the halfshafts for a decent price they're good to have as spares. People with V8's break those too.