NewZed

Why change? Might be getting ahead of yourself. Reluctor > reflector wheel. Funny.

Sometimes just breaking one bolt loose can lead to re-motivation. Start with something small and see where it leads. Drag some parts off the shelves to see what you have. Nothing else to do in the rainy weather anyway.

Wait for spring. Even if you still want to sell, you'll get more money for it when the sun is shining.

I think that in the stock configuration the nut tightens or presses the washer against the shoulder on the spindle pin. If it tightened on the bushings' inner sleeve you would have a line of continuous metal from the strut/hub to the locking bolt to the spindle pin to the inner sleeve back to the strut/hub. Solid metal, no rotational freedom. So if you use a bolt you have to replicate the original design, or let the bolt and nut float with a specific distance between them or let the transverse link (control arm) ears take the load and let it float, converting from a pin locked to the strut/hub to a pin locked to the transverse link. Either way, with a bolt the bolt and its hole are now moving bearing surfaces and need lubrication. Maybe a Zerk fitting in the locking bolt hole. And maybe the typical yellow zinc surface on the bolts isn't the best for a wear application. Or it's all just over-thinking, stick it in there and crank it down instead. Food for thought.

The 79 ZX's had a whole variety of driveline options to go with the multitude of models. R180's, R200's and several ratios. They went a little crazy.

You guys are making things complicated. If Zman has the wires connected correctly, the ZX alternator should work fine. If they're not connected correctly, he'll just be connecting the 240SX alternator incorrectly also. They both work on the same principles, the wires are the same only the appearance has changed. If you want to see the plug-style for an alternator go to the auto parts sites online and pull some up. They have some good pictures. Some show the pin-out for the plug also. Switching alternators won't have any effect though unless the ZX alternator in there now is bad. And here's a helpful article from RockAuto.com - http://www.onlinetechhelp.com/installguides/Alt%20Inst%20Inst%20(1).pdf Almost every alternator listing has a little article attached.

Isn't one problem with the bolt solution that you'll be clamping across the transverse link ears and the hub mount. Compressing across the bushings, or tweaking the ears of the link. Unless you get the perfect thread length and bolt length combination. Or depend on thread locker. The bolt solution also lets the bolt spin in the hub/strut mount bore. With the stock pin and locking bolt there's no spinning or wear, only the rubber in the bushing moves, or the pin inside the bushing (I think). Just seems like there might be more to think about than just a simple part swap. 5/8" (.625") is also a hair small I think. The stock pin is probably 16 mm, or .63". That's why it's easy to use the 5/8" bolt. I did send a car to the wrecking yard though with a 5/8" bolt in there, after swapping parts. Not positive but I think that if you stuck a spindle pin alone in a strut, with a lock bolt, and tightened the washers and nuts on each end you'd end up with a solid assembly with two areas of a bushing's width on each side. The bolt solution would be different. Edited for wrongness...

The turbo ZX's, and maybe some 2+2's, and the odd coupe came with the CV-style axles. The NA coupes generally still came with u-joint half-shafts. I have a couple of ZX R200's and a collection of ZX u-joint shafts in the garage. The bolt-in style flange is typical of the R180's. I have none of those.

Maybe it's an R180. Post a picture of it, from the back showing the rear cover, and the threaded hole.

How is the 280Z body holding up, in general? No roll bar/cage yet, right? Any signs of body flex, cracked paint or warped metal? The question of 240Z vs. 280Z comes up occasionally and you've got a good test going.

Use these two links and order on-line. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/

Your video shows that you're running very rich. The engine revs with the AFM disconnected because there's extra fuel for the extra air you add when you open the throttle. Going from rich to leaner. When you connect the AFM you're adding fuel on top of the already-too-much-fuel so it floods out. It's all described in detail in the usual factory issued document. As far as the AFM tuning procedure with the pop can. You'll notice that there is no background given at all on why that should work. It looks neat-o but where did it come from? Not Japan. You should set your AFM back to where you started (you marked the spring position, of course) and start testing, again. What coolant temperature sensor resistance did you measure before you started tweaking the AFM? Megasquirt won't be easier, there are many threads like this one out there but with "MS" in place of "factory junk electronics".

It's a craps shoot. Might get snake eyes. Google the company name and read. There will be some obvious hazards.

Motor Sport Auto shows them. Courtesy Nissan might be a good on-line Nissan dealer option.

Not quite, but close. It doesn't send a signal, it just changes resistance with temperature.

Looking through Cramer and Hoffman's Performance Fuel Injection Systems book I found the statement below on page 64. The D-Jetronic would likely be the one that doesn't work with the 123Ignition system. The L- should be fine, I'd guess. "D-Jetronic EFI --..............used a second set of points in the distributor that created a tach pulse to trigger the fuel injection...."

Weird that the race is allowed. People and their property so close to the road. I thought that these kinds of races only happened in Third Worldish places like Mexico. Where's the video of the trip over the curb?

Here's 1973 240Z. You can open Engine Electrical chapters and look at more in the attached nicoclub links. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/ http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Thanks. Still not clear, but a test will tell. There's no signal generated, just monitoring of the coil's charge/discharge activity via a wire to the ECU. Here's a copy of the 1976 280Z advance information.

What is the IE? I see the following statement on the attached link and don't really understand why it would be the case. Does the Tune model not like to have other wires on the coil's negative terminal? The tachometer runs off of coil negative also. Maybe it's a misconception, an overly broad statement (D-, K- or L-Jetronic) or based on limited information. Pretty important for any 280Z or 280ZX owners looking at the product. " Note:Tune models are Not suited for Bosch Jetronic injection systems. But work nicely on the Bosch Mechanically injected motors or carburated models. " http://www.123ignitionusa.com/tune-models.html

71 is not like 72 is not like 76 is not like 79 (especially, not an S30) could be partial cause for the confusion. The 78 5 speed will swap straight over to a 76, shifter and all. You'll lose the top gear switch that activates the solenoid for the distributor's vacuum advance,

Well done. Don't forget to check your fusible link for damage.

You have a short somewhere. All you can do is check wires. Check the alternator B post for continuity to ground with a meter. You might have a bad alternator. Also make sure that you don't have other things connected to the B post. Like the black ground wire.

You've made all of the classic errors. Condolences. You should have read a few threads on cam swaps, there are many stories out there about the wedge and the rocker arms. I think that the rocker arms can be reconditioned to get rid of the wear patterns. No idea on cost. Someone might reply with a recommendation, I think that one of the popular cam shops will do it.