NewZed

I found a drawing, in color, with that dimension, searching Google Images with the term "r200 differential dimensions". I'll let you find it so you can vouch for yourself if it's worth believing.

Kind of surprising how powder-coating big parts has become popular. Takes a big oven. But they're out there. Done right, it's super-durable. Here's one - http://www.coyotecoating.com/ Rattle cans are solvent-based and low molecular weight by nature so it's hard to get durability. A two-part sprayed epoxy would be better. By the time you add up all of the $4-5 cans, it might be cost-effective. On rattle cans - Krylon and Hammerite are the only brands I've found that can be used, nozzles cleared, set on the shelf and re-used in the future. The others all clog the nozzle, no matter what. Just a consideration.

Some old threads appear to have "redirect loop" problems. Maybe it's associated with the 404 error. Here's an example - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/114835-240z-260z-280z-280zx-cam-tower-shims-080%E2%80%9D/?hl=%2Bcam+%2Btower+%2Bshims Thanks for the work (to everyone involved) on the best run modified Z-focused site on the internet.

I only get 404's when I click in from a search engine. If I click in from a saved bookmark address, no problems. I notice that the web address in the search engine says "cached" and does not have the term "index.php" between the site address (hybridz.org) and the rest of the location ID. The two things may not be related. Seems like the server is not indexing the threads properly. The search engine's find the index label but it doesn't lead to the thread. Just a very uninformed guess, I'm not an IT guy at all. Edit - Here's an example. Yahoo's search shows the address of the sites it finds. From Bookmarks - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations/ From Yahoo search - forums.hybridz.org/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations No idea if it matters. Just different. You can highlight the addresses above, click "open in another tab" and get in, or get 404'ed. Now if I take the 404 address and insert index.php in there it works fine - forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations

Alright. I've had good luck with springs at the hardware store. A picture would be informative.

Sounds more like your door lock mechanism is gummed up or needs adjustment. It toggles, and yours sounds like it's not making it over-center. Mine were both pretty gummed up from lack of use, and had similar symptoms to yours. Some hosing of the mechanisms with WD-40 from inside the door and working it by hand cleaned it up. I don't think that there is a spring that can be replaced to fix it.

The stamp on the back of the camshaft can be hard to see. Did you wipe the grunge off? Might take some carb cleaner or solvent to get it clean enough to see. The numbers you see are cast in to the blank shaft. Before it's ground. So they're meaningless.

It's for the vacuum tank that runs the valves in the heating system. A small diameter hose would run from there back to the firewall, over to the battery area and on to the off-white, ~quart-sized, plastic tank on the right fenderwell.

You still have to pay for "re-splining" of the axles. Or an adapter. And some of the parts appear to be NLA. It's a three page thread, could you consolidate the stuff that works in to a new procedure? I went through that thread a while ago and got to the end with no effective plan. Also note that any "new" axle you buy aftermarket may have the aftermarket company's own spline count. They use common parts and build to length and bolt pattern. So if you don't go new factory, or original equipment junk yard, the spline count matching can kill the project.

After reading all of these "coilover" conversions discussions (which really should be called adustability and/or lowering modifications since the cars already have coil-over-strut suspension), you realize that separating damping (the shock absorber) from springs is the key to understanding what to do. Where the spring perch is attached determines ride height and adjustability range, and has essentially nothing to do with damping. And the strut tube is cut only to make the shock absorber body fit correctly, clamped down to the bottom of the tube from the gland nut at the top. With those two concepts, you don't really need any numbers, you could do the whole job with a Sharpie. You do need numbers to determine which parts to get, but once you have them, no numbers needed. In other words, you can't determine how much to cut until you have the shock body decided. Just simplifying, for those that like simple.

To add a point of reference, I just entered www.hybridz.org in the address line, got the standard front page, clicked on Forums on the front page, View New Content, clicked on this thread, signed in and posted this reply. Old Compaq desktop, Windows XP fully updated, Chrome browser. Firefox works also. DSL line with plain old Netgear modem. All old basic stuff, nothing fancy. Windows Security Essentials disabled, using aftermarket protection. Maybe there are some clues there. Still get 404 errors when clicking through from Google search though.

Might be worthwhile to isolate the problem. Bypass the surge tank and go back to just the high pressure pump feeding the fuel line directly from the big tank. If the problem goes away it's coming from the surge tank system. If it stays, at least the number of options will be smaller.

This guy Joe is just trying to make some money and he didn't get the deal he wanted. Then he took the MM site name, and is using the designs from MM's suppliers. His remarks on the MM web site about the discussion are pointless and shouldn't really be there. Irrelevant to your purpose anyway. Why don't you design a thinner adapter, offset more to the wheel side so that you can use the stock axles. Indications are that the axles are just just a small fraction of an inch too long when used with the MM design. The MM design looks kind of thick and may take up more axle space than necessary. Almost forgot about this old adapter that cygnusx1 worked up. It's for the 3x2 hole 280ZXT axles. There used to be a complete thread on it but it got disappeared somehow. All that's left is the print, with dimensions. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/files/file/3-cv-adapter-print/ Seems like something similar could be worked up for the 4x1 axles, but you'd have to determine how much less room you have with the 300ZXT axles. Then there's the comfort level of adding an extra interface. In theory, it's just another set of nuts and bolts clamping things together, but still...

Seems like this is close to your main symptom and you're making assumptions about what the cause is. You might help your mission by just describing what happens and see if anyone has a suggestion about the cause. Describe the "vapor lock" under load, for example. EMS description will help also; stock, MS, etc.

I assume that Google keeps some sort of index out there in web land that it uses for its search engine. The links back to hybridz.org seem to be broken. For example - https://www.google.com/#q=280z+site:hybridz.org+cylinder+head+modification All links lead to 404 even though they do seem to exist in the sub-forums shown. Just trying to help tie up the loose ends. The threads can be found by going to the sub-forum on hybridz.org shown on the results page, by hand, then searching within the forum using the Hybridz search function. But Hybridz is probably losing any newbies that try to click through from Google after searching general terms.

Get Volvo or BMW. 1978 242 on rockauto.com is $4.33 to 5.50 each. Spring clip. EV1 style. FricFrac's on hybridz also. Hard to find his kit post though. Got creative and found it - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103849-wiring-harness-repair-kit-eliminate-your-electrical-gremlins/?hl=fricfrac&do=findComment&comment=971265

One of the FAQ threads has a redirect error. It never opens. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/42991-custom-cylinder-head-building-what%E2%80%99s-involved%E2%80%A6/

Could just be the slave or master cylinder. Stage 1 or 2 still won't work if so.

Don't overlook the fact that stiffening certain areas will redistribute loads to others. You could end up with a nice stiff plank that rips out its mounting points or bends the parts it's attached to. One parking curb doink and you're whole front end is mashed up.

Sign-in is required to see your Google pictures.

His plastic containers are empty and he can't figure out why the pedals go to the floor. Probably not really ready for any "upgrades", at all. It's time forrrrrrrrrrrrr...reading and looking at pictures. In the big book that professional engineers spent much effort and time assembling. So people could understand how their stuff works.

You're describing two issues. A stretched/worn belt, and a bolt that won't stay tight. Which is it? Lower quality belts stretch. Get a new belt. Make sure it's correct for the engine. Get a decent brand. Gates seems to make good stuff. If you can't figure out how to keep a bolt tight, life will be difficult. Use some Loctite, perhaps.

Blown seals in the various cylinders and calipers would cause fluid leakage. No fluid, no pressure. It's hydraulics. A clutch kit will have nothing at all to do with blown seals.

Only pistons (or crankshaft journals) are actually at Top Dead Center. Everything else is relative to that. Maybe you mean the camshaft and valves? There's always the notch and groove, which are supposed to be fairly well aligned when the #1 piston is at TDC.

Do you have an engine yet? Your title says 280ZXT, your first post says 280ZX. Apparently the MS VR circuit will handle any of the possibilities, but if you're asking where the inputs come from you might be getting ahead of yourself. Might be best to get the parts and figure out how to make them work or figure out what you want and get the parts.