NewZed

Could just be the slave or master cylinder. Stage 1 or 2 still won't work if so.

Don't overlook the fact that stiffening certain areas will redistribute loads to others. You could end up with a nice stiff plank that rips out its mounting points or bends the parts it's attached to. One parking curb doink and you're whole front end is mashed up.

Sign-in is required to see your Google pictures.

His plastic containers are empty and he can't figure out why the pedals go to the floor. Probably not really ready for any "upgrades", at all. It's time forrrrrrrrrrrrr...reading and looking at pictures. In the big book that professional engineers spent much effort and time assembling. So people could understand how their stuff works.

You're describing two issues. A stretched/worn belt, and a bolt that won't stay tight. Which is it? Lower quality belts stretch. Get a new belt. Make sure it's correct for the engine. Get a decent brand. Gates seems to make good stuff. If you can't figure out how to keep a bolt tight, life will be difficult. Use some Loctite, perhaps.

Blown seals in the various cylinders and calipers would cause fluid leakage. No fluid, no pressure. It's hydraulics. A clutch kit will have nothing at all to do with blown seals.

Only pistons (or crankshaft journals) are actually at Top Dead Center. Everything else is relative to that. Maybe you mean the camshaft and valves? There's always the notch and groove, which are supposed to be fairly well aligned when the #1 piston is at TDC.

Do you have an engine yet? Your title says 280ZXT, your first post says 280ZX. Apparently the MS VR circuit will handle any of the possibilities, but if you're asking where the inputs come from you might be getting ahead of yourself. Might be best to get the parts and figure out how to make them work or figure out what you want and get the parts.

Did you buy the Pertronix Ignitor new? Cutting out at high RPM is a typical sign of a bad ignition module. Also, white mark right on the arrow doesn't mean much. There should be numbers associated with timing, 10 degrees BTC or advanced, for example. Being picky but it's hard to tell what your situation is. What about the rest of the parts - plug wires, plugs, rotor, cap. Are they new also or the old pieces? Did you follow the Pertronix instructions or wing it based on what looked right? Details.

Did it rev past 3,400 RPM with the points? You've described two different regimes so there's no comparison of old versus new. And why were you idling on the freeway? "on the freeway, my idle would drop to zero, "

Can't remember (or never knew). I just took an old piece in and matched threads and flare. Pretty sure it's just a simple single flare of some older spec. Most stores have a variety of precut, flared and fitted tube lengths.

Are there no auto parts stores in Alabama?

Those washers are actually called "yokes" and they have a certain shape that distributes the clamping force. Some call them thick washers, but thick washers would probably not work correctly. Studs and nuts, or bolts, are used to clamp the yoke to the flanges on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Each yoke clamps two manifolds. The holes are evident between the runners. This won't help much with visualizing but you can get the part numbers. Part #28 is the yoke. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/ManifoldEgr/FromAug76/tabid/1606/Default.aspx

For the record, re the Droid people - Windows XP here (holding out!), with Chrome on an old Compaq desktop. No problems as of now.

404 error at 4:21.

Seems normal except for slow speed.

Testing Reply.

Looks like some posts might have got disappeared this morning. Setting a benchmark.

The page doesn't reset to the thread being posted to after posting, it just stays on the Reply page. Leading to multiple posts.

Thanks.

But they don't have to. It's just easier. They shouldn't have called that input option "VR In". It's kind of misleading and limiting. From Post #7 - For a V3.57, you'd have to remove a lot of parts to use the Hall / optical input, so we'll just bring this in through the VR conditioner instead. The problem for many with MS is that you really need to know a little bit about electronics to get through the literature. Or just be a really good reader/comprehender. Even then you have to make some of your own decisions for your own system. Seems like a lot of fun though, from a project building view. The OP never really said what stock system he was using anyway.

Hope it works out for you. There's a lot of wrong info in their web site copy, like most of the transmission parts shops. http://www.midwesttrans.com/fs5w71.html#partslist Take Advantage of Our Expertise with the FS5W71The FS5W71 is a five speed, RWD or 4WD transmission. The FS5W71 is Peugeot design, split-case aluminum design, This unit has tapered bearings except for the rear mainshaft and rear countershaft bearings. Syncro rings in the FS5W71 are aluminum ring/pin assemblies, the outer plates are part of the forward speed gears. The FS5W71 was used by Nissan in 1974 -1997. Select this link to see what models used this 5 Speed transmission. 240SX Frontier 280SX Pathfinder

Those would be the check balls, I believe. For neutral location? I think I figured out at one time that the interlock balls ride on the rods and get pushed in to a location on the adapter plate when the rod moves, locking out the other rod from movement, since there's only room for one ball. Or something like that. It was a puzzle. Anyway, the problem is probably in that area. Could just be that the fluid level is low, or old and gummy, or both. Maybe a fluid change and top-up would help.

Heroez has dropped off the face of the Z planet. You should start a new thread.

Aren't the interlock balls in the adapter plate what allows only one gear selection at a time? Banging gears, bad lubrication and general use/abuse wears the balls and their locations, apparently. It's one of the things to check and replace when rebuilding a transmission, I think, although I don't know that it's described in the FSM.