NewZed

Back to your original dilemma, to trust the shop, or to trust your faulty measurements: probably best to get the right measurements before you do anything. You can't make a good decision until you know what you're dealing with.

Don't have an answer but curious if you mean that .005" is the range that you get measuring the same spot (your measurement error range), or if you mean that the head thickness varies by .005", from side-to-side, end-to-end. They're both bad, one means you're not sure what your measurements really are, the other means the shop didn't keep things very parallel and/or flat.

Don't they all look like that at the bottom. It's the rest of the tube and its bends that matter, right? The whole thing.

These might help. "fe" is for Fuel and Exhaust. The attached picture is from the 1982 version. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

I did a little more looking around and found that DIYA specifies that they're Hall sensor works with their square-tooth wheels. Implying that they don't work well with the pointy teeth wheels. So the sensor might not work with the 24-2 Toyota wheel (I have no idea what tooth shape Toyota has). http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/trigger_wheels_index.htm For anyone thinking about just getting a DIYA Hall sensor to solve a trigger problem. There's more to it.

I think that this guy used to make a kit for the L6 engine. Worth a look, and maybe an e-mail, he would probably know, or might make a custom one for you. http://www.mazworx.com/products/drivetrain/enginetrans-adapter-kits/complete-adapter-kits/

The cap only lets air in, through a spring-loaded valve. Not out. There's no easy solution. Unless you confused air escaping with air entering. Air entering wouldn't cause a "burn" though. Find the charcoal canister, or the lines to it, and make them work. p.s. Use more capital letters.

Just a note for anyone getting 404 errors. This seems to work to get to the page that comes up in the search engine - insert index.php in between org/ and /topic. Before ................hybridz.org/topic/............. After ...............hybridz.org/index.php/topic/................... Just something to use to get by in the meantime. Edit - the above doesn't work anymore. Google brings up a link with the word forum now, instead of topic. Completely replace the word forum with index.php/topic and you'll get there. Hopefully this is irrelevant after Friday.

Take the multimeter you used to check the wire, turn the knob to DC voltage, and check for power on the ignition circuit. The coil (or coils, depending on ignition setup) is a good place to start. Describing the ignition system and EMS you're using would help people give you some better guesses. It's not a 1978 280Z anymore.

The factory system has a vented fuel tank. Sounds like yours are clogged or someone blocked them off. Maybe to get rid of "emissions crap". Check your vents. There's a nice diagram out there somewhere of all of the various hoses and valves.

Whatever failed probably powered both the fuel pump and something else. The something else still needs power. Maybe the ignition system.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/906323-finally-started-my-r33-diff-swap/ Post #10

To add to Tony D's post, if you go to an auto parts store with the old bearing or just say 6203 they'll probably walk right to the back, grab one off the shelf and send you on your way. That's what I did, and that's what they did. Apparently it's a very common automotive bearing, even today.

You know it's the idler for the AC compressor belt, right?

Not an expert. But I think you need a wheel with magnetic teeth to drive a Hall effect sensor. The Hall effect is what happens when you push a magnet through an electric field. With the steel DIY wheel you need a VR sensor. Which is what you already have with the 24-2 Toyota setup. You'll just be replacing one VR wheel with another and installing a sensor that won't work right with either. Edit - Never mind the above. They must have developed sensors based on the Hall effect that will read a steel tooth's effect as it passes by. They say it works. Good luck. Not sure why the sensor wouldn't work with your 24-2 setup though. A VR sensor should be able to pick up tiny voltage pulses. If you can't get the Megasquirt circuitry to do it directly, you could probably use a GM HEI module to amplify and condition the VR signal. I think it's described out there somewhere.

Only if you can't stand the heat.

I found a drawing, in color, with that dimension, searching Google Images with the term "r200 differential dimensions". I'll let you find it so you can vouch for yourself if it's worth believing.

Kind of surprising how powder-coating big parts has become popular. Takes a big oven. But they're out there. Done right, it's super-durable. Here's one - http://www.coyotecoating.com/ Rattle cans are solvent-based and low molecular weight by nature so it's hard to get durability. A two-part sprayed epoxy would be better. By the time you add up all of the $4-5 cans, it might be cost-effective. On rattle cans - Krylon and Hammerite are the only brands I've found that can be used, nozzles cleared, set on the shelf and re-used in the future. The others all clog the nozzle, no matter what. Just a consideration.

Some old threads appear to have "redirect loop" problems. Maybe it's associated with the 404 error. Here's an example - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/114835-240z-260z-280z-280zx-cam-tower-shims-080%E2%80%9D/?hl=%2Bcam+%2Btower+%2Bshims Thanks for the work (to everyone involved) on the best run modified Z-focused site on the internet.

I only get 404's when I click in from a search engine. If I click in from a saved bookmark address, no problems. I notice that the web address in the search engine says "cached" and does not have the term "index.php" between the site address (hybridz.org) and the rest of the location ID. The two things may not be related. Seems like the server is not indexing the threads properly. The search engine's find the index label but it doesn't lead to the thread. Just a very uninformed guess, I'm not an IT guy at all. Edit - Here's an example. Yahoo's search shows the address of the sites it finds. From Bookmarks - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations/ From Yahoo search - forums.hybridz.org/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations No idea if it matters. Just different. You can highlight the addresses above, click "open in another tab" and get in, or get 404'ed. Now if I take the 404 address and insert index.php in there it works fine - forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/20104-p90-head-porting-realizations

Alright. I've had good luck with springs at the hardware store. A picture would be informative.

Sounds more like your door lock mechanism is gummed up or needs adjustment. It toggles, and yours sounds like it's not making it over-center. Mine were both pretty gummed up from lack of use, and had similar symptoms to yours. Some hosing of the mechanisms with WD-40 from inside the door and working it by hand cleaned it up. I don't think that there is a spring that can be replaced to fix it.

The stamp on the back of the camshaft can be hard to see. Did you wipe the grunge off? Might take some carb cleaner or solvent to get it clean enough to see. The numbers you see are cast in to the blank shaft. Before it's ground. So they're meaningless.

It's for the vacuum tank that runs the valves in the heating system. A small diameter hose would run from there back to the firewall, over to the battery area and on to the off-white, ~quart-sized, plastic tank on the right fenderwell.

You still have to pay for "re-splining" of the axles. Or an adapter. And some of the parts appear to be NLA. It's a three page thread, could you consolidate the stuff that works in to a new procedure? I went through that thread a while ago and got to the end with no effective plan. Also note that any "new" axle you buy aftermarket may have the aftermarket company's own spline count. They use common parts and build to length and bolt pattern. So if you don't go new factory, or original equipment junk yard, the spline count matching can kill the project.