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HybridZ

NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. This video is easy to watch even though it's twenty minutes long. At 12:45 he shows the head gasket, then it's on the block but it's orange. Anybody know what the orange is? RTV, copper spray, magic gasket blend? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NBnDOdXzNU
  2. "Box" does not really make sense. Have you seen this sub-forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/31-nissan-rb-forum/
  3. Modifying for a different module isn't plug-n-play, there is some wire cutting required, and probably some hole-drilling and minor fabricating. Check RockAuto.com. Click on the part number and you'll see a cross-reference to all of the vehicles that used it. Maybe you'll find a used one. Over $100 otherwise.
  4. Your link has information that doesn't match the FSM numbers. Check 1976 and 1978 "A" cam specs., for example. Lists like this and the one on atlanticz are convenient but not reliable.
  5. Do you have a gasket for the head? Or is the head available. Check the fit. That outlet hole looks small. Doesn't look right. I'd go out to the garage and look at mine but it's way too cold. Edit - Wasn't that cold. Here's my 81 280ZX engine housing. It uses the three bolt outlet. The engine had all signs of being original.
  6. The stock module is in the cabin, along with a few relays. Stick your nose down by the fuse box and see what's going on down there.
  7. The initial burning plastic smell was probably your ground cables getting hot when the battery post touched the engine block. Even the big negative cable is only designed to carry the amps returned from the starter, not a straight short. The module might have seen some stray current when the big short happened and been damaged. Electronics don't like extra current or voltage. Or it could just be coincidence.
  8. Watch the tachometer. If it goes directly to zero while you're coasting in gear with no power, it might be the ignition module. Just one clue, it could be some other electrical component that is overheating and killing power to the ignition also.
  9. Search the part numbers on the web. All signs are it's a standard EFI replacement pump. http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P70304/10002/-1 Edit - I should say though, that Carter Fuel Systems does a crappy job of supplying information about their products. Probably a sign of very wide specifications. Cant' be held responsible if they don't write it down. Looks like they're part of Federal Mogul. http://carterfuelsystems.com/fuelpumps/universal_fp.php http://fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=P70304&partType=Fuel%20Pump%20-%20Electric%20In%20Line&brandId=CF#.UqYloicW5ko
  10. Never mind, couldn't resist (I had something else here). clocker, read some of Tony D's other posts before you get too carried away.
  11. The internet says that that pump should work. It's DC and directional though and the motor will run backward if the wires are. Could be that your old pump was okay and the original problem is still there. Measure fuel pressure.
  12. Using the motor and transmission as a jig is a good idea. One step back (or forward depending on perspective) would be to take the measurements from the assembled motor and transmission. Or make a jig from the motor and transmission. Wood, scrap steel, plastic, whatever material you feel comfortable with. p.s. the point about multiple dimensions in the FSM drawing is that you can determine what's right with math. They're not all wrong, and as was noted above, it's not wrong in all of the FSM's. The good news is that all of these suggestions are most likely more accurate than measuring from the firewall, which does not appear to be precisely located during manufacturing.
  13. Sounds reasonable. Might be worth removing the check valve to see if you can fix it. That's about where the blockage would be if it's in the pump. Even so the pump bodies are designed to handle pressure. Maybe your leak was on the inlet side and you were sucking air. You could measure fuel pressure, to be sure it's the pump.
  14. Pump failing to pump and pump leaking might be two different problems, as well as engine as running crappily. The Airtex E8312 is the common parts store replacement pump. It's not very noisy and seems to work fine, generally, although some people have problems, I've had one for about three years. Lots of people seem to complain about noise from the MSD225 (or Walbro, same thing I believe). How it's mounted is important. Another option is a used Bosch brand pump from a wrecking yard Ford pickup (with EFI - might take some fittings work). Sometimes used factory pieces are better than new aftermarket.
  15. I jumped in to the middle of your thread so that's my mistake. The splines are at the center of the leverage from the steering wheel and the steering gear so they see a lot of force. Teflon tape or any of the softer plastics based solutions won't last long, they'll just get pressed out on tight or bumpy corners over time, as you noted. Seems like the safety concern is up and down the shaft and the problem is rotational. If you could test the first while evaluating the second you might find a good compromise. JB Weld with one set of splines lubricated might allow the sliding for safety but tighten up the joint for handling. Clean one side and wax the other. Test sliding action before re-installation. Full disclosure: I don't even know if you can take the two pieces apart. If not, the fine wire option seems reasonable.
  16. Why not just use a clamp in the same place as the Vise-Grips were? You could probably find something small that looks like it belongs there and does the job.
  17. The pump pulls from the bottom hose and pushes the water through the block, up in to the head, through the thermostat and in to the top hose. There's a diagram, with arrows, in the FSM (of course), in the appropriately named chapter.
  18. The top radiator hose is on the down-stream side of the thermostat, where pressure would be lower if the T-stat was closed and the pump was pumping. Your top hose would not be overly pressurized. With no flow I think that the temp gauge would still get hotter if the engine was over-heating, which it should do if the T-stat doesn't open. There's a small whole in the T-stat that allows coolant to pass through. There's something off in your theory of what's happening. Might not have anything to do with the thermostat, that's why changing it had no effect.
  19. The FSM doesn't even call out the dimension to the firewall, from anywhere, that I can see. Doesn't look like a good reference point. Why trust somebody's shaky tape measure hand when there are several ways to cross-check the FSM numbers, and/or back out a super-simple dimension like to the top of the front strut?
  20. I was kidding, kind of. Non Tech for the story, and engine related for your problem. With the throttle closed not much air can pass through the engine. So the AFM doesn't do much. You can suck oil past the oil rings and through the valve seals though, especially on a high mileage engine, as the cylinders go from pressurized to vacuum with not much air passing through. How do the plugs look? That might tell you something.
  21. You're right, my mistake. I was sure I had one that was a press fit. Must have been a different engine(s). Subtract that wrongness and the rest of what I wrote stands. Carry on.
  22. You could also just put the spring back where it was. Much cheaper than buying a new one. Most of the procedures you find on the web recommend marking your starting point. Which is a good idea for almost everything you modify.
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