NewZed

You can dead-head the line and should get at most about 60 psi. The Nissan pumps have an internal relief valve. If you want to test it just put a gauge at the end of the output line close to the pump, crank the hose clamps down and apply some power. It might be something as simple as a piece of old hose stuck in your new regulator. Best to check the pump alone before assuming too much. Forgot to say, the inlet needs to be unobstructed also. If you had the tank sealed it's not uncommon to end up blocking the inlet to the pump. And - gauge on the wrong line. The return line, maybe. It happens.

I used to think you needed the whole box, but apparently you just need the pedals and maybe the shaft or spacers/washers, etc that make them fit in the box. I think you need both pedals because the automatic brake pedal is wider than the manual brake pedal. There's an old Wheeler Dealer episode where they convert a 240Z to manual transmission. Worth watching if you can get the episode. Might be on youtube. They had to cut out the hole for the shift lever also. Showed the whole process. Looks like you can buy it, don't know how that works. Some of the streaming services have it.

Filter? Don't see it listed. You could bypass the damper before replacing it, if you think it's an obstruction. It's purpose is just to reduce pressure pulses, to make things last longer, and probably make things quieter. But the engine will run fine without it. But, really, even with an obstruction, your pump should build pressure, if you test it without the engine running. The FPR is just a pressure relief valve. It won't open until pressure is reached. Are you sure you got an EFI pump? Maybe you got a carb pump. Also - bad gauge.

Agreed, if you can't take a measurement just eyeball it in there and hope.

Just to give another perspective on what these various sites are saying about two planes...imagine that you're floating above your car and you can see the lines that run through the pinion shaft of the diff and the transmission's output shaft. They need to be parallel. Then imagine that you're laying on the ground beside the car looking through it and can see the same lines. They need to be parallel. That is one of the fundamentals of drivetrain alignment to avoid vibration. The size of the angle is separately important to avoid damaging the u-joint. Too little is bad and too much is bad. But the front and back angles need to be the same, regardless. That's all I'm saying. If you can get the lines parallel and the angle within the recommended range, then there's no need to move engine or diff. But, you have to take the angle measurements. 3/4 inch doesn't mean anything. Only the angles do.

I meant that the engine's crankshaft is most likely parallel to the body's centerline. Like the diff's probably is. Because they started that way. The up and down is where things change when you do swaps. The engine and diff can both be tilted up or down easily, and can therefore be not-quite-right. Anybody who get their engine or diff mounted crooked is going to have other issues besides drive-line vibration.

No offense intended to anyone but you do not have to move the engine unless the angle is too big. You just have to think in terms of two planes. I would guess that the side to side angles are already correct if the engine mounts are factory stock and the diff mount has the halfshafts pointed at the wheel centers. If the crankshaft and the pinion shaft are parallel with the cars body then you don't need to worry about alignment but you do need to make sure the angle is small enough. that's the critical one I think the size of the angle. Move it if the angle is too big but don't move it because it's not pointing directly at the diff. https://vibralign.com/shaft-alignment/understanding-offset-shaft-alignment/ "That is, the angle of the yokes on both ends of the shaft will be equal when the driven and driver are on parallel planes in the vertical and horizontal axes. https://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaft-measuring.html In a perfect world the centerline of the transmission output shaft would be exactly parallel to the pinion centerline on both vertical and horizontal planes (but not “pointed” at each other).

You still have to do up and down. Good luck. If you have vibrations you'll know where to start over at.

It's not really obvious. Everyone has to ponder it to make sense of it. I'd just find a procedure on a web site that you trust and follow it. People have made their own special tools with laser beams and stuff to get it done right. No Sea Bass though. Here's that Laine family link. I haven't read through it. https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm

It's a 360 degree thing. Left right up down 45 45...full circle. But if you get left and right and up and down right, they 're all right.

You only rotate to get the axes parallel. Not to line up. That's the whole key to the concept. The axes have to be parallel. The only reason to move the engine over would be if the angle of the joint is too great. Maybe they measured the angle and decided it was too much. You'd need to see their numbers to know for sure. Did they show any numbers? (You could also post the link if you wanted to). https://www.moderndriveline.com/a-little-information-about-u-joints/

You rotate either or both. Don't know why the Laine's moved their engine sideways. Maybe they had clearance issues or something. Just because someone else did it doesn't mean it's the best way to get it done. The principles of powertrain alignment are pretty clear and simple. Just get those two axes parallel and don't make the angles too steep.

Probably a leaky heater core. Pretty common to disconnect them. There's a port at the back of the head to supply hot coolant and a line that goes back to the water pump somewhere long the side of the engine block. They should be blocked but people often connect them thinking that coolant has to flow. If you find a loop connected the back of the head to the water pump line, disconnect it and block the ports. Check the back of the head first to see what you're dealing with. Your index finger is about pointing at where it should be. Looks like this. https://www.stockwiseauto.com/four-seasons-84516-hvac-heater-fitting?fit_id=28788&Year=1979&Make=Datsun&Model=280ZX&gsID=pxf1103927f28788&gclid=CjwKCAiAlNf-BRB_EiwA2osbxcsYlFMeUJvlKgST8KcimKOTSyePLQ4SkY0Wl6X1xntg2YXW6-Ek1BoCuQIQAvD_BwE

You don't want to move things sideways, you want to rotate them around their axis until the axis of the diff and the axis of the transmission are parallel. Typically (always from a factory install) the diff and transmission/engine are already correct side to side, with axes parallel to the wheelbase (except for transverse engines and front wheel drive), it's the up and down that needs to be worked on. https://www.drivelinesnw.com/part-trouble-shooting/vibration-analysis/angle-analysis/

Are you buying or selling? That car is what Bring a Trailer used to be all about, I think. I'd get as much information together as you can and post it there. https://bringatrailer.com/submit-a-vehicle/ And there is some stuff out there, findable with the Google machine. https://www.ztrix.com/rebody-kits/daytona-zx https://www.ztrix.com/daytona-zx/daytona-zx-black

I'm guessing you'll have no problems with the relays. I put one between the switch and the fuse box to start just to take the load off the switch you're about to work on. But there are other ways. Found a good thread with pictures. Notice the extra set of unused contacts.. Nice and clean. https://www.zcar.com/threads/headlight-combination-switch-repair.311982/

That is a common failure point. The contacts inside the switch get pitted. Sometimes the switch gets so hot that the solder joint on the top breaks. Be careful with those wires, the joints are probably fragile from the many heat cycles. Typically, the contacts inside get pitted and/or the wires break off of the top. You can take it apart and clean it up and probably get it to work again. If you do get it working then relays will take the high current load off of the switch. You need that switch to work, even to use relays. Bend those four little tabs back and the board will come off. There are springs and balls inside if I remember correctly. Don't lose them, do the work over a container or on a large work bench. There are threads around the internet about repairing it. I'll post one if I find it. Forgot to say that some people desolder the wires and flip the board around. One set of contacts is unused on the board. But if you can clean up the old contacts they should easily handle the .3 amps of a relay. The running lights are handled there also and that circuit goes bad often also. Relays everywhere are good.

The EFI/fuel pump relay bypasses the AFM switch, for starting. So what you saw was normal. Disconnecting the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to Start is how Nissan says to test the fuel pump operation. Use it when you check the pressure.

2.5 bar. 36.3 psi. Don't overlook something simple like a sticking or leaking injector. Or even bad fuel. If you don't drive it much the fuel in the tank is probably old.

You said the engine runs but it runs poorly. Removing the water temperature sensor should make it so rich that it won't run at all. Different levels - runs well, runs poorly, doesn't run at all. You should at least hear a difference in the way it runs when you disconnect it. Which aftermarket pump? Some of them are high volume and might overpower the regulator. Did the problem occur immediately after changing fuel pumps? Basic troubleshooting rule is to undo what you just did if a problem appears. I found that any of the 1975 - 1978 ECU's would run my 76 engine. I had many spares that I had collected and tried them all. Whatever differences there are must be minor. I also had one ECU that went bad. First it just died while I was driving, it restarted a couple of times so I could get closer to home, then, apparently, it also started dumping fuel when I was trying to restart it and wouldn't start again. I replaced it with one of my spares and everything was back to normal. I never really figured out what was wrong with it. I changed a transistor in it and it worked correctly again but I never trusted it enough to leave it in.

There have been discussions about what, exactly, goes bad in the ECU when they do go bad. The fact that disconnecting the water temperature switch has no effect suggests that that circuit is broken inside the ECU or at the ECU connection. You got the proper resistance measurement but the ECU did not respond when you disconnected it, suggesting that the ECU didn't "see" it. It should have had an immediate effect. If you can get it running, maybe try disconnecting the sensor at the engine while it's running to be sure there's no effect. If it works correctly it should go super-rich right away as soon as you disconnect it. Like you're in the Arctic. Good luck. The simple check is to swap in a spare ECU if you can borrow one.

You seem to be saying that the idle circuit is causing the ECU to provide too much fuel. That the switch tested correctly but when you disconnected it, disabling the idle enrichment, it ran better. Disconnecting the switch would be like opening the throttle, but without actually opening the throttle. It might be that something else is causing it to run rich and disconnecting the switch makes things better but is not the true cause. Running very rich is one of the signs of the ECU going bad. Sometimes people find that it's actually the connections at the plug. They tap or beat on the side of the ECU or wiggle the cable to the plug and the problem gets better. The source is broken solder joints at the ECU connection. Try beating on the side of the ECU and wiggling the cable while it's running. Nothing should happen, if there's a change that's not right.

Not really clear what you did here. You said they come one when you give them power but you're asking about the ground side. Do they need power or do they need ground? Most headlight problems are at the dimmer switch as you mentioned. People have good luck by spraying contact cleaner down in to the dimmer mechanism and working the switch. Worth a shot.

Did you check the throttle valve switch pins? There's a procedure. Sometimes they do get stuck on full throttle, they get dirty. That adds 27% extra fuel.

Not clear who you're talking to. There are 16 pages in the thread. John Coffey died several years ago, but had already given the STI axle business over to Wolf Creek Racing before then. p.s. the R180 is not really strong enough for what you have. http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&catid=16:tranny-a-rear-diff-parts&Itemid=31