NewZed

www.xenons30.com/reference or http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1977/ Engine Fuel chapter. Unfortunately the 1977 FSM isn't separated by chapter. It's a pain, you have to download the whole thing.

You have a vacuum leak from the carbon canister hoses and a very rich condition from the coolant temp. sensor being disconnected. Who knows which is causing your no-start. The thing about the EFI is it really really likes to have everything connected and working correctly.

The ECU and injectors don't care about ignition timing. Pin 1 at the ECU connector is supposed to be connected to the negative terminal of the coil. One simple thing you can do is check continuity from Pin 1 to that post. Is everything re-assembled as it was before you replaced the head gasket or are you trying to start it before putting everything back together? Or did you do a few other things while you were in there?

Won't the T5 driveshaft be a ZX driveshaft and of the wrong length? Won't fit a Z body? It will need to be cut. Plus you have an early body, which causes problems. Binding half-shafts with the R200 swap. Cut driveshaft, mustache bar, 280Z R200 stub axles, shortening a half-shaft to avoid binding - getting expensive and it's not even what you really want. The very cheapest, simplest in-the-mean-time option might be back to the R180. The ZX T5 driveshaft is probably the wrong length anyway. Have a custom shaft made, with the right flange for the R180 on it, and take it easy on the diff. The Subaru R180 swap in the early bodies is popular, I think, because it avoids all of those problems that seem small but actually take a lot of work and money to fix.

Supply more information. The engine ran at one time, otherwise it would not have made it from 1977 to today. Something happened in the meantime. The ECU grounds the injectors when it detects that the coil has created a spark three times. If the injectors have power, they will open. If there is pressure in the injector, it will squirt.

You didn't mention the RPM component of your timing control scheme. Only manifold pressure. Maybe it's in there just not described. By the way, as you can see from your diagram, the 280Z sensor won't work in that scheme. It produces its own voltage as the rotor tip passes by. It doesn't have external power.

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of your radiator. Designed with a hole or slot in it to dribble slowly when loosened so that you don't have to remove it completely to drain fluid. You can reach it from the front of the car, it's either on the driver's side or in the middle. Has wings like a wing nut. For finger usage.

I think that your reasoning for motorcycle coils might be off. Wasted spark doubles the load, COP reduces it to 1/6 (six coils instead of one). So a reduction to 1/3 the load of a single coil system - 2 * 1/6. A three coil wasted spark would be 2 (the doubling) * 1/3 = 2/3 the load of a single coil system. So your COP wasted spark reduces the load to half of a standard wasted spark setup but still doesn't need motorcycle coils. Your math might be assuming that all coils fire at any single cylinder's combustion cycle. That would be a lot of wasted spark and each coil would see the same duty cycle as a single coil. The only benefit would be redundancy of coils to allow the engine to keep runing if a coil failed. I think that the MSD 7AL uses spark retard for timng control also (not positive, it's hard to find rechnical details on it). Controlled by dials on the box or programmable by computer. My reasoning or understanding could be off. Looks interesting though.

Maybe you were spinning the pump the wrong way. Should go counterclockwise, reverse speed on a drill motor.

I would replace hoses also while you're at it. They're probably old and ready to split, which sucks if it happens wile you're driving. Especially if you don't notice until your temp. gauge is pegged out. Domzs's suggestion reminded me, since pinching an old hose will often cause it to split.

If you open it up or look at the wiring diagram you'll see that not all 35 pins are used. For the record. Good luck with your dilemma.

I have a 76 that came with a 4 speed and that is the same ECU number, except for the K. Maybe the K indicates Reman. I would run it on mine. It should work fine. Looks in good shape also, no corrosion.

Fluid in the cooling system will drain out until the new fluid level is at the level of the part you've removed. Therefore, it depends on the level of the fluid in your cooling system before you start. Check under the radiator cap to get an estimate.

My 76 used to do that. You can adjust the contact switch in the AFM to make it go away. Could also be that your brake booster is leaking intake vacuum, causing the low RPM and low air flow that causes the AFM switch to open.

The ignition module is above and forward of the fuse box. About 5" x 5" dark green box. Resistance values for the dropping resistors are shown on page EF-56. Most of your testing can be done right at the ECU connector. Look through the FSM to find the right value, look at the wiring diagram to see what pins tocheck at the connector. The connector is the best place to start since what the ECU sees is what's important. 76 and 78 have some differences in wiring at the igntion module and at some of the relays.

You're double-posting. You should answer Leon's question in the other thread.

Are you saying it looks like that now? You did that? It looks terrible. If your distributor works, the GM HEI module is pretty easy to wire up. If you have an HEI module, a good distributor and a good coil, you could have spark in about 20 minutes. But if you wire it up like your picture, you'll probably short something and damage it pretty quick. That old module in your picture might already be damaged. The HEI module might already be damaged. They have to be wired correctly with no shorts to ground, from the beginning. They're sensitive. No spark, no start, so you might as well focus on that before you do anything else.

Get some stock turbo injectors. With a stock turbo system, 90 psi, and 370cc injectors you should be blowing raw fuel out the tail pipe. Stock injectors and a stock FPR should be a good starting point. You have a bunch of wrongness going on.

Is that picture your work or the PO's? What kind of messing did you do, and what was your reasoning?

You might have switched hoses. Inlet for outlet. Check that the hose from the filter is attached directly to the rail and not to the regulator. Earlier you said that fuel pressure rose but you didn't say what it rose to. What was the pressure on the gauge?

The part that makes a machinist nervous, or cause a high quote, is cutting the hole for the bigger 240SX bearing. If you swap bearings instead, the rest is low precision work that nobody should balk at.

With Posts #48 and #50 it seems like you're working both sides. "Speedhunter misquoted Rocky Auto but it doesn't matter, because their misinterpretation is okay anyway". You might be writing yourself in to a corner. The idea that the Japanese culture is so different it's almost incomprehensible to the common outsider is a little bit much. If Rocky Auto built a car, sold it and the new owner claimed that they built it, would Rocky Auto just be happy that someone else got more joy from their creation? Or would they set the record straight? The answer to that question would add some clarity.

Seems like this whole issue was initiated by Speedhunters. They wrote some hype for a car show to generate buzz so that they could sell product. I don't see anywhere that it's been shown that Rocky Auto actually claimed to build that car. The Speedhunters' writer is probably covering his ass by claiming that's what they told him. Modern society has a long history of protecting ownership of ideas and creations, through patent and trademark/copyright law. It's world-wide. The concept is clear. There's really no way to make an argument against it. Edit - wrote this while Tony D posted. Looks like the focus is where ti should be, on Speedhunters.

Have you tried the FSM? The 73 PDF file is on the XenonS30 site. AtlanticZ has a diagram. The colors might match although it doesn't really show the connectors. Find your colors and break out the volt/ohm meter. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1973_240z.gif

Just saw that RockAuto (not Rocky) is offering a generic electronic igntion system for points replacement. Made by Standard and Airtex, although they look identical. $158 or 136. Actually, they look like the Pertronix. Maybe they're all the same. The RockAuto Standard product image is attached. http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/ignitor-delco-2-cyl?pp=8 Onion, it looks like you have a module triggering a module. Pertronix says that the Ignitor is great for triggering an MSD, maybe someone is using yours to trigger a high power (more current) module. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx