NewZed

You might have a dash cap. It's difficult, but not impossible with some tricks, to get the tach and speedo out through the front with a dash cap.

loy makes a point, indirectly. You can look at the position of the wire in the connector plug to convert your colors to the diagram colors. There's a drawing of the plug in the 1982 FSM, Electrical chapter, EL-32.

You're not the first to get caught, if that's the issue. If you're only changing the collar, you won't have to slide the transmission out from underneath, only drop it down in the tunnel and swap collars while under the car. I ran a new/old transmission for about ten days once, watching a 3-4 drops of fluid drip on to the garage floor every day after driving (from the fork pivot pin threads), before swapping it for a different new/old unit. The good thing is that the procedure is fresh in mind, and you know where all of the tools are.

The collar needs to match the pressure plate. May be that you should have used the one from the old 240Z transmission. The 260Z collar might be too tall. See if the old 240Z collar is a short one. That's one possibility. Did you try installing the old slave cylinder to confirm it's not a cylinder problem? That would narrow things down.

Which throwout bearing collar did you use?

Dirty battery connections. Clean and retry.

You said the fluid squirts when you press the pedal but it should only squirt when you release it and the fluid returns to the reservoir. The amount that shoots back is the amount that got pushed out in the first place. The large amount implies a big bubble being compressed or something flexible moving and springing back. Watch the reservoir level while the pedal is pushed to see how much is pushed out. Here's another bleeding trick if you're sure everything's right. Read Post #16 here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/49342-i-am-my-wits-end-these-brakes.html

You might have switched them when you reinstalled. They'll fit either side, but the wrong way puts the bleed bolt at the bottom, leaving the air at the top.

These guys probably have something that would fit - http://www.southbendclutch.com/flywheels.html Sorry, had to do the emoticon. Trying to stretch my posting skills...

You should call Fidanza. Their web site pictures show dowels, plus you say you got some with the flywheel. Maybe you got an incomplete manufacturing job. Actually their web site even mentions the quality of the dowels. Something's odd. http://www.fidanza.com/aluminum-flywheels.aspx

What happened to the alignment dowels? That's their function.

My stock 76 with factory AC just has a bolt in that hole. Looks factory installed. N42 intake.

Excellent point twofouroh. Some of the new "green" brake cleaning products are hydrocarbon based, and will burn just fine, but the old halogenated ones, that produce phosgene, are still available. If I was trying to start an engine I would seriously consider using starting fluid. Edit - the halogenated Brakleen wouldn't burn by itself anyway so woudln't help start the engine.

There's a Hybridz member who was making a modified brace. Seems pretty popular. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98295-steel-brace-for-r200-clsd-finned-cover-in-s30-new-list-and-design/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97134-steel-brace-for-clsd-r200-finned-cover-use-in-s30-zcar/

You mentioned the writing in Post #1. What does it say?

Looks like you should be using Pin 5. Here's a diagram from the 1982 EFEC chapter.

The "small cylinder" is a solenoid that opens to let vacuum through to the distirbutor. The wires from the solenoid go to the top gear switch on the tranmsssion. It's described in the Emissions chapter. As twofouroh says, it shouldn't stop the engine from starting, you'll just never have vacuum advance if it does. One easy way to ballpark ignition timing is to put the timing mark on ~10 degrees, then look at where the rotor tooth (the six tooth iron rotor) is in relation to the pickup coil in the distributor. It should be about directly across from the exposed brass in the middle of the pickup coil. If it's not, turn the distributor until it is, then make sure that the distirbutor rotor is pointing at the #1 wire. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 in counterclockwise order. Cylinder 1 is at the front. While you're in there check the gap between the rotor tooth and the magnetic pickup coil. It's important, and adjustable, also described in the Engine Electrical chapter.

He wants a set that are longer than stock to run around the front of the engine. Probably have to build a set. You'll need a good crimper and just match the specs. on the stock wires. I thnk that auto parts stores typically have a build-your-own kit from Accel that comes with a crimping tool. One option.

The AAR does not affect the air-fuel ratio. It just lets air past the throttle blade, but the air still passes through the AFM. If you take the hose off of the AAR you're creating a large vacuum leak, letting unmetered (Air Flow Metered) air in to the manifold, leaning out the mixture. Your rich problem isn't caused by the AAR. You're searching where the light is, when your problem is in the dark.

That's good enough for me. We've circled back to Speedhunter, from Post #51. Here's the quote from Speedhunter that implies that RockyAuto built the car - "Now working out of a brand new state-of-the-art workshop, Watanabe-san at Rocky Auto is able to churn out cool custom kyusha at an even faster pace than before! This USDM Datsun 240Z is something he pieced together in the last couple of months… …and it’s probably one of the cleanest cars we have ever seen from the famed resto-mod specialist." Here's "speedhunters_dino" in the comments claiming that RockyAuto gave the impression - "oops indeed. Seems he's not only playing the market as I was lead to believe something else..." From here - http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/04/mixing-it-up-spotlighting-necs-2013/ There's still a lot of written support in this thread (sample quote below) for the idea that calling someone ele's work your own is the way they do things in Japan. I don't believe that. But that's opinion so it's just more words in the end. From #46, Tony D - "If you sold it and walk away from the service...you aren't due the credit. That's the way it works there. If you want credit, set up shop there, and service what you sell. Otherwise you will merely be a minor footnote in the history of the vehicle." Posts like #46 are what have kept this thread alive. The statement above runs counter to my experience, which is limited, but real. Maybe the auto market is different. Just tying up loose ends. Good luck, PLATA, with your sale to RockyAuto. I hope it happens real soon.

The internet is a very difficult place to verify someone's credentials or show an error without seeming like an ass (or showing that you might actually be one [talking about me]). I thought it might touch a nerve so pet280 is entitled to respond if he's offended. No biggy. I was curious about what qualifies as "tech" or professional. It's surprising how many people post that they're professionals, or techs, but have problems with the very fundamental early EFI system. 40 versus 36.3 wouldn't qualify as "in spec." to me. 10% over. You've got the numbers, you just see something different. It would probably work okay but a little rich. But you couldn't make the EFI system work even though you're a professional, trained mechanic. It just shows why this forum and others like it are so popular. No offense, you just gave an opportunity to learn the state of the "Tech". Next time you take a course with a live instructor, bring an old 280Z in to stump the instructors. It will be fun.

Did you measure resistance at the ECU or just continuity? We always direct people to the FSM but the reality is that even the FSM tests aren't very thorough. They're just a starting place.

Backing it out lets more past the AFM vane. Making the mixture leaner because the AFM vane doesn't open as far. But the effect is tiny, it's main purpose is to adjust the mixture at idle. Adjusting it won't fix this - "insainly rich (huge clouds of smoke)". That's more likely the coolant temperature circuit or fuel pressure. If you have an ohm-meter you can learn a lot by running through the FSM tests at the ECU connector. TPS adjustment is in the FSM also, and can also be checked at the ECI connector.

Let's at least define the issue correctly first. PLATA's just here for the entertainment, he has nothing useful to say.

Posts like this are just confusing. What kind of training have you had to become a professional mechanic? Or are you self-trained? 40 psi off and 36-38 running is not "in spec". I am honestly curious. If you're getting paid for auto repair that's great, I just wonder how one gets to a position like that. Good luck with Megasquirt, it sounds like it's definitely worth doing, in general, on these old cars.