NewZed

It could be something as simple as a bent anti-squeal shim, acting as a flat spring, or a pad hanging up on its mounting pin. Maybe even silicone or adhesive between the pad and piston. Still seems like an air bubble is more likely though, due to the volume. Good luck.

Maybe you're just ignoring my suggestions (maybe I should use more emoticons), but have you watched the pistons and calipers for "springing"? If the MC pistons are doing their jobs and applying hydraulic pressure through the metal brake lines, and have enough stroke, then the fact that you have to pump the pedal means that something is elastic in the system, resetting the starting point when you release the brake pedal. Basically, every time you use the brakes they are out of adjustment, and you have to refill the lines to get the pads to make contact. If there is no air (which would give a compressible bubble), then it has to be mechanical. I fought my front brakes for quite while until I realized the bleeders were on the bottom. I have a little empathy... Edit - Just remembered also that if the brake warning switch is working correctly, your brake warning light will light up if there's a pressure imbalance front-to-back. That might be the switch that Xnke referred to, although it's only an indicator and should reset automatically when the pressure imbalance is fixed. Unless it's clogged or leaking (it has rubber seals inside and could leak internally I believe). It's the one with the wire coming out of the top, below and forward of the MC, bolted to the frame rail.

"This video is private". See if the AFM vane is moving. Watch the counterwieght or hold it open a little bit while starting. Sounds like it's starting on "Start enrichment" but not getting enough AFM signal to keep going. Did you block the PCV line so that you can run with the rocker cover off? Might be easier to just put the cover on and connect the lines. Vacuum lekas are a killer.

Just to add a little more as to "why" that would cause this. Are you guys saying that he's bottoming out the MC piston because the MC cylinder portion designed for the low volume rears is working on the high volume fronts? It would be odd to get the lines switched if he's using a stock MC. 77 isn't in the middle of a design switch period. He could still eye-ball the line from the big reservoir down to the front calipers. Pretty easy to confirm.

The pistons in the calipers are supposed to stay essentially where they end up after the last time the pedal was pushed. The dust seal draws them back a hair so that they don't rub the disc. As I understand things. If I was in your predicamnet I would try to get a good look at the pistons while applying the pedal and see what they do. You might have a retainer or some odd thing acting as a spring and pushing or pulling the pads back, pushing the pistons in to the bore. If there's no air on the inside then the problem must be external.

It will probably make a difference. The voltage from the pickup coil will be rising instead of falling at the proper point in rotation. You'll still get spark but the timing will be retarded and jumpy. If so, just swap them. That's how the GM module works anyway, from the same basic principles. Have you checked resistance of the pickup coil. The ZX magnet is fragile and tends to break. The test procedure inthe FSM is pretty well-detailed, if you haven't been there yet. Air gap adjustment and other tests described.

It's either the regulator or the check valve in the fuel pump, if holding pressure is the issue. See if fuel pressure drops to zero after the engine is shut off.

You should add some piss and just use that blend instead of coolant. Should be good for some horsepower if the old saying runs true...

Break the system down in to pieces. You can make the coil produce a spark by attaching a jumper wire to the negative coil and tapping it to ground with the key on if there's power to + post. Connect a voltmeter or test light to Pin 5 and see if the ECU is producing the +/- voltage signal to the HEI module W pin. Confirm good gorund from the wide mounting grommet on the module. Confirm the the wires to the module have power at B and C when the key is on. Somewhere out there is a way to check that the CAS is producing the signal to the ECU, find that and check the CAS signal. Some are easy to confirm, some take a little ingenuity. Follow the path and confirm as much as you can - CAS signal > ECU > ECU voltage pulse to Pin 5 > Pin 5 to HEI module > HEI module triggers coil > etc. One or more of these things must not be happening. If you're lucky, it will be an easy one to remedy.

The switch (better word than sensor) will close/open at the same temperature, wet or dry. Buried in the metal of the head, it will still reach head temperature. The only effect you might see would be in response time, but probably not significant. If it was a sensor, being used by an EFI system, the delay might make a difference. Thermal paste couldn't hurt, but thread contact will transfer plenty of energy to the body of the switch. They're small. You'll want to verify that the switch closes at the right time anyway, in use, so testing will show what's what. These are just opinions, I'm not an engineer.

You might have a dash cap. It's difficult, but not impossible with some tricks, to get the tach and speedo out through the front with a dash cap.

loy makes a point, indirectly. You can look at the position of the wire in the connector plug to convert your colors to the diagram colors. There's a drawing of the plug in the 1982 FSM, Electrical chapter, EL-32.

You're not the first to get caught, if that's the issue. If you're only changing the collar, you won't have to slide the transmission out from underneath, only drop it down in the tunnel and swap collars while under the car. I ran a new/old transmission for about ten days once, watching a 3-4 drops of fluid drip on to the garage floor every day after driving (from the fork pivot pin threads), before swapping it for a different new/old unit. The good thing is that the procedure is fresh in mind, and you know where all of the tools are.

The collar needs to match the pressure plate. May be that you should have used the one from the old 240Z transmission. The 260Z collar might be too tall. See if the old 240Z collar is a short one. That's one possibility. Did you try installing the old slave cylinder to confirm it's not a cylinder problem? That would narrow things down.

Which throwout bearing collar did you use?

Dirty battery connections. Clean and retry.

You said the fluid squirts when you press the pedal but it should only squirt when you release it and the fluid returns to the reservoir. The amount that shoots back is the amount that got pushed out in the first place. The large amount implies a big bubble being compressed or something flexible moving and springing back. Watch the reservoir level while the pedal is pushed to see how much is pushed out. Here's another bleeding trick if you're sure everything's right. Read Post #16 here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/49342-i-am-my-wits-end-these-brakes.html

You might have switched them when you reinstalled. They'll fit either side, but the wrong way puts the bleed bolt at the bottom, leaving the air at the top.

These guys probably have something that would fit - http://www.southbendclutch.com/flywheels.html Sorry, had to do the emoticon. Trying to stretch my posting skills...

You should call Fidanza. Their web site pictures show dowels, plus you say you got some with the flywheel. Maybe you got an incomplete manufacturing job. Actually their web site even mentions the quality of the dowels. Something's odd. http://www.fidanza.com/aluminum-flywheels.aspx

What happened to the alignment dowels? That's their function.

My stock 76 with factory AC just has a bolt in that hole. Looks factory installed. N42 intake.

Excellent point twofouroh. Some of the new "green" brake cleaning products are hydrocarbon based, and will burn just fine, but the old halogenated ones, that produce phosgene, are still available. If I was trying to start an engine I would seriously consider using starting fluid. Edit - the halogenated Brakleen wouldn't burn by itself anyway so woudln't help start the engine.

There's a Hybridz member who was making a modified brace. Seems pretty popular. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98295-steel-brace-for-r200-clsd-finned-cover-in-s30-new-list-and-design/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97134-steel-brace-for-clsd-r200-finned-cover-use-in-s30-zcar/

You mentioned the writing in Post #1. What does it say?