NewZed

Dan might be on to something. ~36 psi is the right number without the vacuum hose, ~26-28 with (in my experience) with the hose connected and engine idling. If the vacuum hose is connected, check it for gasoline. It should be dry. Your FPR might be damaged. By the way, your first post "videos" are just pictures. On my computer.

On a 280Z, pin 13 is one leg of the water temperature sensor circuit. That's what I was talking about, you said no continuity. That's the one you should be getting a resistance reading on. Wires 45 and 46 are the thermotime switch and the CSV. Yu should read ~60 ohms through the resistance of the heater in the thermotime switch when it's cold. So 60* is a litle confusing there too, what does the * mean? But it's not the water temp sensor anyway. A 280Z ECU connector only has 35 pins. Are you reporting the numbers shown in the FSM? You can do most of what you need to know right at the 35 pin connector inthe car. You might want to work from a wiring diagram like the one on page EF-28 in the 78 FSM, it will help. Pin numbers to the ECU and parts labeled. But, as far as the thermotime switch and the water temp. sensor, they're very different. One's a sensor, one's a switch. Sorry. Sounds like you're almost to a solution. Don't forget that block could eaily be 10 degrees colder than outside (if the 4.28 you reported is actually the sensor reading).

You might have the thermotime and water temperature sensor connections reversed. They're both EV1 style. Try swapping them at the thermostat housing and recheck resistance at the ECU connector. And/or measure resistance directly across the two pins on the water temp. sensor at the thermostat housing. It's a tight squeeze but doable. Measure resistance don't just do a go/no-go continuity test. There's a table in the Engine Fuel chapter of resistance versus temperature.

As Old Andy implied, the fact that it ran for a little while after a jump suggests that your battery is dead. Apparently the EFI systems don't like low voltage. What does your voltmeter show before and while trying to start? A new battery might get you home. Another thought is that the Fireball coil is low resistance on the primary side. That could damage your ignition module, especially if the ballast resistor is removed also. You'll get more current through the whole circuit. Ignition modules are hard to diagnose though, but they do tend to fail when hot.

What car? Ignition system, module, distributor, ECU, etc.

As Xnke says, but check at the ECU connector. Then you'll know what the ECU sees. Compare the resistance reading to the temperature table in the FSM or the Fuel Injection book.

No word play gold star for me, I can't take credit. It must have been subliminable. I wasn't thinking it when I wrote it. On that point though, could you shave the keys down on the sides to get the same effect as opening the slot? Is there neough meat on the key? And what about downshifting? I assume the other side of the slot comes in to play. It'll be great news for all rebuilders if this procedure is simple enough for the average mechanic to do. I've read many threads around the internet about people rebuilding their Z transmission only to still have grinding problems afterward. Thanks for documenting.

Make sure you consider the fuel pressure that the flow rate is taken at. Some rates shown on various web sites seem to be for the factory setting, but other independent test results are taken at a different pressure, typically 3 bar (43.5 psi). The Z setting is 2.5 bar (36.3 psi), but I don't know if the 188-190 cc/min rate people talk about is taken at 2.5 or 3 bar. And more modern injectors are run at an even higher pressure. I've searched around but often find rates listed with no test pressure. If you're lucky you'll find some independent testing that lists pressures and rates for the injectors you're looking at.

Re-read posts #117 and 133. They hold the key.

It's the BCDD. Described in the Emissions chapter of the FSM. Lots of discussion about it aorund the internet. It uses a yellow wire for power, that comes through the same harness section that supplies the AFM.

The 78 FSM says to pry it out with a screwdriver (EL-4). For some reason the later ZX FSM's take that direction out, or moved it.

You can buy the missing bushings separately though, from various places.

Does it run well when it warms up? Bad injector seals (the kind the parts stores sell) will just cause a vacuum leak.

"Hook up to coil" doesn't tell much. Not a whole to work with in your post.

Why do you believe that? The Beck Arnley site has a picture of the product that looks exactly like Soup's gasket. They probably put the picture up because they keep getting calls about it.

The "P90" header would be shaped for the ZX body. Look at the pictures on the MSA site. The 70-76 header should have square ports. Put N42 in the cylinder head ID box. Or call them.

Which slot? The three that the keys ride in or some other? Trying to make sure I understand. That was some solid work to figure things out and get it done. And that guy Jack really dug deep on the mechanics of the synchros. I've never really understood well how the various pieces worked together until this thread.

It would be interesting if you did the imporved head cooling modification while you're at it. Many people think that's a big part of the detonation problem with these heads when you try high CR's. The topic's bobbing around on another forum, coincidentally.

I gave some bad numbers above, Page 30 is the 4 cylinder axle. Bottom of -31 is the "DS-90" VG30 inner CV. Drawing attached. Aftermarket CV axles can be totally different internally than the Nissan factory axles. Only the parts that connect to the car are the same. EMPI, for example.

Looks like there's a snap-ring. The FA chapter has a procedure (see link below), jump to FA-30 and -31. Interested in how it works for you. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/

He's been confused by the pictures on the atlanticz site about which gasket fits which block, or which head. The real question is "should the HG match the block or the head?" I've thought it was the head but the AZ site says the block. These internet sources might be worth a little more. There's pictures. If you've got a matching block/head combo it's a no-brainer. Notice that the Nissan part numbers contain the head ID, not the block ID. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/CylinderHead/tabid/1600/Default.aspx 76 number http://nissan4u.com/parts/280zx/us_s130/1982_4/type_23/engine_mechanical/cylinder_head_rocker_cover_camshaft_and_valve_mechanism/illustration_1/ not quite right year-wise but you can get the P79 number http://www.beckcatalog.com/ http://www.fme-cat.com/PassengerCarLightTruck.aspx

Check the bearings in the steel plate (adapter plate). You might find that a few balls are missing. Just a guess. The pilot bushing fits in to the end of the crankshaft, at the center of the flywheel. The nose of the transmission main drive gear (shaft with a gear on it) is supported by it. Maybe you're just ignoring me, but I'm curious.

Pilot bushing?

Your story is kind of confusing. You said that with the first transmission you "lost" first, then were driving, then locked up the wheels in third. On the second, you lost first, but didn't really say if third locked up again, although you did say it failed exactly the same way. Not really clear what "lost" means either, does the lever go to the place where first should be engaged and there's nothing? Or does it not go to the spot for first as at all? How did you get the car home if the rear wheels were locked up? Did they unlock and you just used second, fouth and fifth to drive it? By now, it seems like you would have at least drained the fluid from the first transmission and seen some broken pieces that would tell you something. The transmssions aren't known for this. They usually just make bearing noise and start grinding when shifting. One thought is that you don't have a pilot bushing in the end of your crankshaft and you're overloading and destroying the bearing in the adapter plate. That would be common to both transmissions. I've not had it happen, but it seems possible.

As you're looking at the small wiring diagrams in the Body Electrical chapter, you'll see a legend at the bottom of each that tells what color the letters stand for. Most make sense, except for blue, which is labeled with the letter L.