NewZed

The body styles changed dramatically in 1979. They are defined as the S30 (240Z through 280Z) and S130 (280ZX). You have an S130. The only parts that are easily interchanged between the S30 and S130 are the engine, transmission, differential and half-shafts, and possibly the wheels. The easiest way to convert would be to buy a 240Z body and move all of your running gear over. www.xenons30.com www.xenons130.com

It's not necessary, according to Redline. Read the White Paper, 2nd page, Directions For Use. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx

Might be too late - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113367-l26-200-mostly-complete-l28et-distributer-80-and-maf-50/?do=findComment&comment=1061955

Could be that you have a bad battery and that was the original problem. Not clear how you determined that the alternator was putting out "plenty of power" to charge the battery. Vague. Did you measure amperage? Voltage? I would have your battery checked.

Not enough detail to know what you really did. What year car? Why do you have the BAT post connected directly to the battery cable instead of to the thick white charge wire that feeds the fusible links (the original configuration)? Why do you think the problem is in the T plug? And do you know that the alternator you swapped in is a good one?

MSD stands for Multiple Spark Discharge. Supposed to provide better ignition in some cases. http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=8451 In theory, it's a better ignition module than the ZX type module. I'm pretty sure that you could run an MSD 6AL with just your 77 distributor. The pickup coil in the 77 will control the 6AL. It would be best to build a matched dignition system. Coil and module designed to work together. The ballast resistor is there to drop the amps that pass through the coil and module both, as a system. Mismatched systems will work but might not give the best spark or might wear out sooner. You might consider the GM HEI module also. Cheap and seems dependable. Not glamorous, but effective. Check the replacement cost of a ZX module before going that route. It's about the same as replacing your 77 module, and the ZX modules are known to die also.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

FPR could have a bad diaphragm. On an NA car a bad (cracked or holed) diaphragm leads to extra fuel getting sucked in to the manifold through the FPR diaphragm. Under boost, the opposite would happen, you'd push air in to the fuel lines through the FPR. Rich NA, lean boost. Let it idle, no boost, and check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel. I'm just guessing, not a turbo guy.

They only enlarged the shift rod hole? Weak. Swap bearings and do the clearancing yourself.

Search the words "square port round". You'll find some good reading. Round can go into square but square won't go in to round. Round blocks the corners. As far as block compatibility with the head, it's more about piston compatibility with the head. Compression ratios.

To JMortensen's point. You should read the thread below. Q45 axles, not 280ZXT, but might be a similar problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110723-q45-vlsd-tearing-up-cages/?hl=shafts&do=findComment&comment=1035217

I modified a 90 amp Maxima alternator for v-belt use by swapping the pulley. The pulley from your ZX alternator might need to have the hole enlarged if it's a factory unit. It might be D-shaped. You'll need to make a spacer (or stack some washers) behind the pulley to get the alignment with the other pulleys correct. The Maxima microgroove pulley has a standoff built-in. And you might have to grind or file down some of the alternator housing behind the pulley so it doesn't rub. Mine looks like it will work, compared to stock, but I haven't had it on yet. It's bigger than the original so it will be harder to squeeze in to its spot. And you'll probably need an impact wrench to get the pulley nut off, for both alternators. There's nothing to grab and it will probably have had thread locker applied. If you try to hold the pulley you'll probably damage it and it might slip on the shaft anyway. Simple in concept but a lot of small problems to solve.

Read Post #45 also. If your axle is too long, it might be because it's a rebuild with new center, or aftermarket new, not Nissan stock. Also, flipping the cages was the common recommendation (now fairly well discounted) for the 300ZX four bolt turbo axles. Might not apply to the 280ZXT CV axles.

Aren't some the 88 LSD's of the viscous type? VLSD. With special axles needed? Something to check.

You can uncrimp the sides of the metal cover and take it off. Look inside and see why it's getting stuck. It has eleven blades so it's not so simple to replace with one or two common relays. Added a drawing to show the complexity. From the 1976 FSM. Doesn't look like fun, although it could be figured out. .

I thought this thread was about a person you knew with indigestion and a bad attitude... If it was NA I'd say you had a lean condition, maybe a lean spot in the AFM or low fuel pressure. But the same should apply to boost I would guess. What's your fuel pressure? edit - pretty sure that the FPR raises fuel pressure under boost, just like it lowers it under intake vacuum. If the hose from the manifold to the FPR is off or blocked, you'll be rich off-boost and lean on-boost. Somethng to check.

Check your shift forks for cracks or excessive wear. They're expensive. If the shafts were out of alignment due to missing bearings, other problems can occur. That's probably what caused the cracked gear. The other gears must have had serious stress put on them too. You'll probably find enough other parts that need replacing that you'll wish you hadn't tried to rebuild, if you go that way. I'm no expert but it seems like a tranmsission with just worn bearings and synchros would be a better starting point for a rebuild. steved033 wins the guessing contest. Maybe he tried to rebuild his two and has some knowledge to pass on.

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=3c7_1370751956

Looks like you're deep in to things. I noticed your measurements on the throwout collars and you might be measuring to the wrong spots. The critical dimension is from where the clutch fork contacts the collar to to where the bearing contacts the pressure plate levers. I modified one of your pictures to show it.

The Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM has a section on how the ignition system works. 1978 doesn't have a crank position sensor.

Wrong sub-forum.

Sometimes a click and eyeball search is better. Several good threads here - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/92-turbosupercharger/

"for idle". The FPR has a hose connected to the intake manifold to drop fuel pressure based on intake vacuum. Typical idle pressure is 26-30 psi.

Are there signs in the CV shaft assembly that it is too short? Signs of wear? Maybe they're just wearing out. It doesn't seem like many people use the 280ZX CV shaft adapters. Haven't seen many accounts of their use. Here's a thread describing another adpater that several people have used. Up to an inch thick. It seems like there should be plenty of extra room for a stock 280ZX CV shaft. Go to Post #35 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34048-more-questions-on-cv-axle-conversion/?hl=adapter cygnusx1 used to have another thread with prints of the adapters but it has disappeared.

You're starting a shop just to focus on pre-83 L6 Datsuns? What is your area of expertise - composite molding, tooling, engine building...? Just curious. Examples of previous or current work would be interesting.