NewZed

Measure voltage to the Lamp wire with the key on. No voltage, no windings current, no magnetism, no charging.

I was actually responding to 78zstyle. He should tell why his ideas are so sensible, as opposed to silly. Justify his comment with some examples of what makes sense. Your Z will have a bigger, more modern engine with a more modern EMS. Seems reasonably sensible, although it could be expensive by the time you're done. In the big picture though, the only reason to spend any money at all on a 35 year old car is because you think you'll enjoy it. Being sensible has little to do with it. Good luck with the project.

Pressure differential drives flow. With the "right" splitter design and side skirts you could probably get air to flow in the hood vents, past the engine, and out the bottom. By the same logic, you could imagine that hood vents affect lift and handling at speed also. When you want the air to flow needs definition to decide what works and what doesn't. Just sayin'. I have no race car.

How about a description of your car, and why it's so sensible?

Tapered roller bearing vs. ball bearing. Edit for clarity - the rotational torque spec. is for the front tapered roller bearings. Torque on the nut determines rotational force in the bearing. The spec. for the rear roller bearings is just a range of shaft play, since the ball bearings need a certain amount of room in their races to work properly. If you get it too tight the balls will ride up the side of the race. Too loose and the inner races will move around.

The only thing that the 240SX transmission offers is the front cover for the collar to ride on. The clutch fork pivot point is on the 71B bellhousing. You could bolt on just the 71B bellhousing and get the clutch to work, if you could keep the fork from dropping. You might rethink things.

The FSM says 0 to 0.0059" is in spec.

Forgot about cygnusx1's adapter option. Fits between the wheel axle companion flange and the CV axle flange. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/3-cv-adapter-print/

This guy makes it sound pretty easy. The 280ZX and 240Z companion flanges are both 25 spline apparently (280Z is different, oddly enough), and will swap right over with just a dust seal modification. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html Here's another one, can't remember if it's the same guy or not - http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

Probably too much mish mash...

The body styles changed dramatically in 1979. They are defined as the S30 (240Z through 280Z) and S130 (280ZX). You have an S130. The only parts that are easily interchanged between the S30 and S130 are the engine, transmission, differential and half-shafts, and possibly the wheels. The easiest way to convert would be to buy a 240Z body and move all of your running gear over. www.xenons30.com www.xenons130.com

It's not necessary, according to Redline. Read the White Paper, 2nd page, Directions For Use. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx

Might be too late - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113367-l26-200-mostly-complete-l28et-distributer-80-and-maf-50/?do=findComment&comment=1061955

Could be that you have a bad battery and that was the original problem. Not clear how you determined that the alternator was putting out "plenty of power" to charge the battery. Vague. Did you measure amperage? Voltage? I would have your battery checked.

Not enough detail to know what you really did. What year car? Why do you have the BAT post connected directly to the battery cable instead of to the thick white charge wire that feeds the fusible links (the original configuration)? Why do you think the problem is in the T plug? And do you know that the alternator you swapped in is a good one?

MSD stands for Multiple Spark Discharge. Supposed to provide better ignition in some cases. http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=8451 In theory, it's a better ignition module than the ZX type module. I'm pretty sure that you could run an MSD 6AL with just your 77 distributor. The pickup coil in the 77 will control the 6AL. It would be best to build a matched dignition system. Coil and module designed to work together. The ballast resistor is there to drop the amps that pass through the coil and module both, as a system. Mismatched systems will work but might not give the best spark or might wear out sooner. You might consider the GM HEI module also. Cheap and seems dependable. Not glamorous, but effective. Check the replacement cost of a ZX module before going that route. It's about the same as replacing your 77 module, and the ZX modules are known to die also.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/index.html

FPR could have a bad diaphragm. On an NA car a bad (cracked or holed) diaphragm leads to extra fuel getting sucked in to the manifold through the FPR diaphragm. Under boost, the opposite would happen, you'd push air in to the fuel lines through the FPR. Rich NA, lean boost. Let it idle, no boost, and check the FPR vacuum hose for fuel. I'm just guessing, not a turbo guy.

They only enlarged the shift rod hole? Weak. Swap bearings and do the clearancing yourself.

Search the words "square port round". You'll find some good reading. Round can go into square but square won't go in to round. Round blocks the corners. As far as block compatibility with the head, it's more about piston compatibility with the head. Compression ratios.

To JMortensen's point. You should read the thread below. Q45 axles, not 280ZXT, but might be a similar problem. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110723-q45-vlsd-tearing-up-cages/?hl=shafts&do=findComment&comment=1035217

I modified a 90 amp Maxima alternator for v-belt use by swapping the pulley. The pulley from your ZX alternator might need to have the hole enlarged if it's a factory unit. It might be D-shaped. You'll need to make a spacer (or stack some washers) behind the pulley to get the alignment with the other pulleys correct. The Maxima microgroove pulley has a standoff built-in. And you might have to grind or file down some of the alternator housing behind the pulley so it doesn't rub. Mine looks like it will work, compared to stock, but I haven't had it on yet. It's bigger than the original so it will be harder to squeeze in to its spot. And you'll probably need an impact wrench to get the pulley nut off, for both alternators. There's nothing to grab and it will probably have had thread locker applied. If you try to hold the pulley you'll probably damage it and it might slip on the shaft anyway. Simple in concept but a lot of small problems to solve.

Read Post #45 also. If your axle is too long, it might be because it's a rebuild with new center, or aftermarket new, not Nissan stock. Also, flipping the cages was the common recommendation (now fairly well discounted) for the 300ZX four bolt turbo axles. Might not apply to the 280ZXT CV axles.

Aren't some the 88 LSD's of the viscous type? VLSD. With special axles needed? Something to check.

You can uncrimp the sides of the metal cover and take it off. Look inside and see why it's getting stuck. It has eleven blades so it's not so simple to replace with one or two common relays. Added a drawing to show the complexity. From the 1976 FSM. Doesn't look like fun, although it could be figured out. .