NewZed

I would replace hoses also while you're at it. They're probably old and ready to split, which sucks if it happens wile you're driving. Especially if you don't notice until your temp. gauge is pegged out. Domzs's suggestion reminded me, since pinching an old hose will often cause it to split.

If you open it up or look at the wiring diagram you'll see that not all 35 pins are used. For the record. Good luck with your dilemma.

I have a 76 that came with a 4 speed and that is the same ECU number, except for the K. Maybe the K indicates Reman. I would run it on mine. It should work fine. Looks in good shape also, no corrosion.

Fluid in the cooling system will drain out until the new fluid level is at the level of the part you've removed. Therefore, it depends on the level of the fluid in your cooling system before you start. Check under the radiator cap to get an estimate.

My 76 used to do that. You can adjust the contact switch in the AFM to make it go away. Could also be that your brake booster is leaking intake vacuum, causing the low RPM and low air flow that causes the AFM switch to open.

The ignition module is above and forward of the fuse box. About 5" x 5" dark green box. Resistance values for the dropping resistors are shown on page EF-56. Most of your testing can be done right at the ECU connector. Look through the FSM to find the right value, look at the wiring diagram to see what pins tocheck at the connector. The connector is the best place to start since what the ECU sees is what's important. 76 and 78 have some differences in wiring at the igntion module and at some of the relays.

You're double-posting. You should answer Leon's question in the other thread.

Are you saying it looks like that now? You did that? It looks terrible. If your distributor works, the GM HEI module is pretty easy to wire up. If you have an HEI module, a good distributor and a good coil, you could have spark in about 20 minutes. But if you wire it up like your picture, you'll probably short something and damage it pretty quick. That old module in your picture might already be damaged. The HEI module might already be damaged. They have to be wired correctly with no shorts to ground, from the beginning. They're sensitive. No spark, no start, so you might as well focus on that before you do anything else.

Get some stock turbo injectors. With a stock turbo system, 90 psi, and 370cc injectors you should be blowing raw fuel out the tail pipe. Stock injectors and a stock FPR should be a good starting point. You have a bunch of wrongness going on.

Is that picture your work or the PO's? What kind of messing did you do, and what was your reasoning?

You might have switched hoses. Inlet for outlet. Check that the hose from the filter is attached directly to the rail and not to the regulator. Earlier you said that fuel pressure rose but you didn't say what it rose to. What was the pressure on the gauge?

The part that makes a machinist nervous, or cause a high quote, is cutting the hole for the bigger 240SX bearing. If you swap bearings instead, the rest is low precision work that nobody should balk at.

With Posts #48 and #50 it seems like you're working both sides. "Speedhunter misquoted Rocky Auto but it doesn't matter, because their misinterpretation is okay anyway". You might be writing yourself in to a corner. The idea that the Japanese culture is so different it's almost incomprehensible to the common outsider is a little bit much. If Rocky Auto built a car, sold it and the new owner claimed that they built it, would Rocky Auto just be happy that someone else got more joy from their creation? Or would they set the record straight? The answer to that question would add some clarity.

Seems like this whole issue was initiated by Speedhunters. They wrote some hype for a car show to generate buzz so that they could sell product. I don't see anywhere that it's been shown that Rocky Auto actually claimed to build that car. The Speedhunters' writer is probably covering his ass by claiming that's what they told him. Modern society has a long history of protecting ownership of ideas and creations, through patent and trademark/copyright law. It's world-wide. The concept is clear. There's really no way to make an argument against it. Edit - wrote this while Tony D posted. Looks like the focus is where ti should be, on Speedhunters.

Have you tried the FSM? The 73 PDF file is on the XenonS30 site. AtlanticZ has a diagram. The colors might match although it doesn't really show the connectors. Find your colors and break out the volt/ohm meter. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1973_240z.gif

Just saw that RockAuto (not Rocky) is offering a generic electronic igntion system for points replacement. Made by Standard and Airtex, although they look identical. $158 or 136. Actually, they look like the Pertronix. Maybe they're all the same. The RockAuto Standard product image is attached. http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/ignitor-delco-2-cyl?pp=8 Onion, it looks like you have a module triggering a module. Pertronix says that the Ignitor is great for triggering an MSD, maybe someone is using yours to trigger a high power (more current) module. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

I'm just guessing based on how other seals work, and the FSM and other drawings. I usually just look at things like that and try to figure out what should be, not so much about how they ended up. Somebody previous could have installed the wrong seal when they changed pinion flanges and made a mess of it. That's all I have. Looks like fun, good luck.

Look at PD-9. Outside. From under the car if you want to do it exactly by the FSM procedure. Making little stars with your hammer and tool. The outer portion of the new seal pounds in to that rusty recess in your picture (looks like yours has been missing for a while, that's going to need some cleaning), then the pinon flange slips inside when you put it back together. The moving surface seal is around the flange, the static portion fits inside the diff housing. That's my take on it. Most of the seals on the driveline, even the rear crankshaft seal in the engine, pound in from the outside.

Kind of looks like you removed a piece of the original seal, the inner seal, and the rest has torn off. Maybe someone has had your diff apart before. Do they have the same diameter inside the sealing surface, where the "spring" is? The seal replacement procedure is described on PD-9. Looks like it's meant for the big seal, not the tiny piece you have. A large hammer and a tool are shown. Here's a blow-up of the 95 300ZX viscous diff, if it helps. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-882_883_953_974.html

Check fusible link. Where did you come up with "12 amp connection"? I don't think that anybody out here is a fuse or a relay.

Timing is when the spark happens. Unless you're good with your ear, you're best off to set it with a timing light. It spins counterclockwise. 1-5-3-6-2-4. What matters most is where the rotor tooth is in relation to the magnetic pickup. Look in the Electrical chapter of the FSM under distributor. It has the firing order and much other good information that will help you out. The Engine Tuneup chapter will show you how to set the timing and what/where the various parts are.

You didn't mention ignition timing.

Since you're in direct contact with Rocky Auto maybe you could ask about the Speedhunter situation. They either won't care because they're just in the money-making business or they'll appreciate the opportunity to clear things up. It doesn't really matter in the big scheme but it would be interesting to know what's going on in the big-money world. Vicarious thrills...

Seems like Tony D, with his experience and connections in Japan, could find out what's really going on and translate the situation for the forum (and anyone else that sees these posts). Or HS30-H might have some insights also. That would be constructive. Taking credit for someone else's work is never OK, in any culture, from my experience. If a mistake has been made by the journalist, giving the wrong impression, clearing it up would be doing Rocky Auto a service. Apparently they deserve the effort, from somebody that can get it done.

I was fishing. You'll probably get a lot more help if you just dump all of the tests you've done, with the numbers, in to one post. Unless you find someone that enjoys pulling teeth. Good luck.