NewZed

You might have switched hoses. Inlet for outlet. Check that the hose from the filter is attached directly to the rail and not to the regulator. Earlier you said that fuel pressure rose but you didn't say what it rose to. What was the pressure on the gauge?

The part that makes a machinist nervous, or cause a high quote, is cutting the hole for the bigger 240SX bearing. If you swap bearings instead, the rest is low precision work that nobody should balk at.

With Posts #48 and #50 it seems like you're working both sides. "Speedhunter misquoted Rocky Auto but it doesn't matter, because their misinterpretation is okay anyway". You might be writing yourself in to a corner. The idea that the Japanese culture is so different it's almost incomprehensible to the common outsider is a little bit much. If Rocky Auto built a car, sold it and the new owner claimed that they built it, would Rocky Auto just be happy that someone else got more joy from their creation? Or would they set the record straight? The answer to that question would add some clarity.

Seems like this whole issue was initiated by Speedhunters. They wrote some hype for a car show to generate buzz so that they could sell product. I don't see anywhere that it's been shown that Rocky Auto actually claimed to build that car. The Speedhunters' writer is probably covering his ass by claiming that's what they told him. Modern society has a long history of protecting ownership of ideas and creations, through patent and trademark/copyright law. It's world-wide. The concept is clear. There's really no way to make an argument against it. Edit - wrote this while Tony D posted. Looks like the focus is where ti should be, on Speedhunters.

Have you tried the FSM? The 73 PDF file is on the XenonS30 site. AtlanticZ has a diagram. The colors might match although it doesn't really show the connectors. Find your colors and break out the volt/ohm meter. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1973_240z.gif

Just saw that RockAuto (not Rocky) is offering a generic electronic igntion system for points replacement. Made by Standard and Airtex, although they look identical. $158 or 136. Actually, they look like the Pertronix. Maybe they're all the same. The RockAuto Standard product image is attached. http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/ignitor-delco-2-cyl?pp=8 Onion, it looks like you have a module triggering a module. Pertronix says that the Ignitor is great for triggering an MSD, maybe someone is using yours to trigger a high power (more current) module. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

I'm just guessing based on how other seals work, and the FSM and other drawings. I usually just look at things like that and try to figure out what should be, not so much about how they ended up. Somebody previous could have installed the wrong seal when they changed pinion flanges and made a mess of it. That's all I have. Looks like fun, good luck.

Look at PD-9. Outside. From under the car if you want to do it exactly by the FSM procedure. Making little stars with your hammer and tool. The outer portion of the new seal pounds in to that rusty recess in your picture (looks like yours has been missing for a while, that's going to need some cleaning), then the pinon flange slips inside when you put it back together. The moving surface seal is around the flange, the static portion fits inside the diff housing. That's my take on it. Most of the seals on the driveline, even the rear crankshaft seal in the engine, pound in from the outside.

Kind of looks like you removed a piece of the original seal, the inner seal, and the rest has torn off. Maybe someone has had your diff apart before. Do they have the same diameter inside the sealing surface, where the "spring" is? The seal replacement procedure is described on PD-9. Looks like it's meant for the big seal, not the tiny piece you have. A large hammer and a tool are shown. Here's a blow-up of the 95 300ZX viscous diff, if it helps. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-882_883_953_974.html

Check fusible link. Where did you come up with "12 amp connection"? I don't think that anybody out here is a fuse or a relay.

Timing is when the spark happens. Unless you're good with your ear, you're best off to set it with a timing light. It spins counterclockwise. 1-5-3-6-2-4. What matters most is where the rotor tooth is in relation to the magnetic pickup. Look in the Electrical chapter of the FSM under distributor. It has the firing order and much other good information that will help you out. The Engine Tuneup chapter will show you how to set the timing and what/where the various parts are.

You didn't mention ignition timing.

Since you're in direct contact with Rocky Auto maybe you could ask about the Speedhunter situation. They either won't care because they're just in the money-making business or they'll appreciate the opportunity to clear things up. It doesn't really matter in the big scheme but it would be interesting to know what's going on in the big-money world. Vicarious thrills...

Seems like Tony D, with his experience and connections in Japan, could find out what's really going on and translate the situation for the forum (and anyone else that sees these posts). Or HS30-H might have some insights also. That would be constructive. Taking credit for someone else's work is never OK, in any culture, from my experience. If a mistake has been made by the journalist, giving the wrong impression, clearing it up would be doing Rocky Auto a service. Apparently they deserve the effort, from somebody that can get it done.

I was fishing. You'll probably get a lot more help if you just dump all of the tests you've done, with the numbers, in to one post. Unless you find someone that enjoys pulling teeth. Good luck.

Good for you. I'm going to guess it's a bigger throttle body, not the stock one?

I opened up the EFEC chapter and just randomly chose something that caught my eye. How about the throttle valve switch? It's easy to get to, test, and adjust. Who knows, you might get lucky.

That's kind of what I thought. Not the best way to do it. You can get continuity over a short-circuited wire. Or you can get continuity to the connector but have a bad connection to the sensor. Continuity doesn't tell you as much as resistance.

Describe your EMS. Is it the stock 280ZX turbo system, or modified 280Z, or Z31, or other? Edit - also curious - if you did this, "measure resistance at the ECU/ECCS connection and compare the number to the resistance versus temperature chart", why did you say that you did this, "I have continuity from plug to ecu connector and i checked the snsor itself"? Did you actually get a resistance in ohms, from the pins at the connector?

CHTS problems would be there always, not just at start. If you want to know that CHTS circuit is correct, you have to measure resistance at the ECU/ECCS connection and compare the number to the resistance versus temperature chart in the FSM.

Didn't the corner worker drop his flag before the guy that crashed came in? Seems like the corner worker screwed up, after 2 of the 4 cars ignored his red flag in the first place. Looks like a big CF.

Check alternator output while you're working on things. If you have bad regulation, the rev to 7000 RPM would cause higher voltage > higher current flow > more heat from resistive heating on your bad connections > melting and smoke. That would be one logical cause and effect path.

Check continuity from Pin 1 to the negative post of the coil. That's what the ECU uses to determine when to ground the injectors.

The revving to 7000 RPM shouldn't cause a short circuit. The voltage regulator controls voltage. You probably knocked one of the loose wires to ground when your leg was pumping up and down on the gas pedal. And that circuit should probably have a fuse on it. I would look to see why it didn't blow. I don't think that "redline" is determined by the cam profile.

Perception probably depends on whether the user is looking for smooth notch-free shifting in the cold or grind-free shifting at 7000 RPM. I've seen long discussions about getting rid of notchiness when it's cold out. A racer who changes fluids after every event or season won't have the same view of quality as a daily driver from Minnesota who will probably leave the fluid in for 30,000 miles. Redline has a paper on how their fluid is engineered with the proper coefficient of friction under high shear rates to allow the synchros to work correctly (see the MTL and MT90 Tech Info paper from the link below). The chart on page two is interesting because it shows viscosities at 100 degrees C. 10W-30 motor oil apparently has a higher viscosity than 80W gear oil at use temperature. So there must be different test standards for labeling the fluids (as impled by darkstar, and answers part of my question from above). The chart also shows that viscosity breaks down pretty quickly for the motor oil and ATF. Something to consider. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx I'm one of the Swepco 201 converts, but at 75/25 with ATF. Worked better than MT90 in an old, probably rusty inside, 1983 5 speed for high RPM 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. But it is a little notchy when cold out. No yellow flakes (I checked) or signs of excess wear after ~15,000 mlies. Prior to that I chose MT90 over Valvoline 75W-90 in a 1978 5 speed for better high RPM 2-3 shifting. Both transmissions high mileage, which could be a factor. One more anecdote... letitsnow used the super-duper Pennzoil Synchromesh and seemed to like it. He's shifting at high RPM. Post #120 in duragg's thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/page-6