NewZed

The revving to 7000 RPM shouldn't cause a short circuit. The voltage regulator controls voltage. You probably knocked one of the loose wires to ground when your leg was pumping up and down on the gas pedal. And that circuit should probably have a fuse on it. I would look to see why it didn't blow. I don't think that "redline" is determined by the cam profile.

Perception probably depends on whether the user is looking for smooth notch-free shifting in the cold or grind-free shifting at 7000 RPM. I've seen long discussions about getting rid of notchiness when it's cold out. A racer who changes fluids after every event or season won't have the same view of quality as a daily driver from Minnesota who will probably leave the fluid in for 30,000 miles. Redline has a paper on how their fluid is engineered with the proper coefficient of friction under high shear rates to allow the synchros to work correctly (see the MTL and MT90 Tech Info paper from the link below). The chart on page two is interesting because it shows viscosities at 100 degrees C. 10W-30 motor oil apparently has a higher viscosity than 80W gear oil at use temperature. So there must be different test standards for labeling the fluids (as impled by darkstar, and answers part of my question from above). The chart also shows that viscosity breaks down pretty quickly for the motor oil and ATF. Something to consider. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx I'm one of the Swepco 201 converts, but at 75/25 with ATF. Worked better than MT90 in an old, probably rusty inside, 1983 5 speed for high RPM 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. But it is a little notchy when cold out. No yellow flakes (I checked) or signs of excess wear after ~15,000 mlies. Prior to that I chose MT90 over Valvoline 75W-90 in a 1978 5 speed for better high RPM 2-3 shifting. Both transmissions high mileage, which could be a factor. One more anecdote... letitsnow used the super-duper Pennzoil Synchromesh and seemed to like it. He's shifting at high RPM. Post #120 in duragg's thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/page-6

When was the last time that it ran well? "I did some checks in the EFI bible and that everything checks out" means that only some things checked out, and there are things that you didn't check. Best to check everything. I would use the 1976 FSM, Engine Fuel chapter, in addition to the "bible".

The angle between the transmission shaft's axes and the pinion shaft axis should be parallel to avoid u-joint motion induced vibration. RTz's dff mount design drops the nose of the diff because he designed it for a V8 application. An RTz-style mount might be better all around for you, with the right angle and a urethane piece to damp diff whine. Pretty sure I've seen accounts of the solid mount causing fatigue cracking of the cross-member. If you have a stock mustache bar the looseness of the end mounting points will put a lot of stress on that solid mount. They'll move but the solid mount won't

I've seen it said that the gear oil numbers are different from the motor oil numbers, so they can't be compared. But I've never seen anything to support the statement, no test specs. or descriptions from evenan official looking source. I do know that 75W-90 gear oil pours much, much slower than 10W-40 motor oil at human (not engine) temperatures. Which seems to support that the same test and specs. apply to both. Who knows. I'd love to see a good professional source describing the different test methods for gear and motor oil. The link below seems to imply also that the same specs.are used. Otherwise, a 5W-30 gear oil would be like running 3 weight motor oil. Which doesn't seem likely, just considering bearings alone, let alone synchros. I'd love to learn more, I just haven't seen it yet. Ready for illumination. Edit - I've found a few more internet items suggesting that there are two specs for the two oils. But Amsoil is still labeling their gear oil as a 5W-30. So unless they decided to label their gear oil with a motor oil spec., there's precedence for the newer gear oils for modern cars, like Honda MTF, to be of lower viscosity. Hard to find a clear answer out there. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?zo=1368758&page=%2fstorefront%2fmtf.aspx

You were right about sucking at search . Don't get mad! Type "LD28 water pumps" in to the search box at the top of the page. You have to also choose "Forums" from the drop down menu in the right hand side of the search box. Maybe that's where you missed it, if you don't choose Forums it will search the topic you're in, not the whole site. The reason for my first comment will become apparent... Edit - of course, if that's not the one you're looking for then my humor is wasted.

Edit (this might be wrong - It's a short nose R200). R200V is shown in the specifications at the end of the PD chapter. Ratio of 3.538 by your tooth count, is correct for 1995. They went to 3.692 in 1997. Edit - actually I can't say for sure that it's a short nose R200. I have a shortnose R200V from a J30 and it doesn't have the finned cover. Haven;t looked at recently There's pictures all over the internet if you Google "R230 viscous" or "R200 viscous". Many links back to Hybridz. Good luck.

This thread is following the same path as the last one like this - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98290-rb26-head-removed-and-found-this/

You're sending mixed messages, and poorly formatted at that.

If you use a ZX distributor with the ignition module (black box) intact, aren't you using a module to trigger a module? Instead of the sinusoidal signal, the output would be square. You should be able to take the ZX module off and just use the wires inside from the magnetic pickup, if i understand the MSD instructions correctly. Wondering. I've never used an MSD but it's tempting, to try to smooth out the idle a bit.

It's not a bad start. Probably a lot more in there. The other guys know much more than I do about extracting power, I'm more interested in seeing what Datsun Parts LLC is putting out for product. Good luck with it and thanks for posting the dyno results. It does seem odd though that the shop didn't take any AFR readings at all. The results would have been more valuable, especially for a baseline for future tuning. Maybe they broke all of their O2 sensors and didn't want to waste a session.

It's a Datsun Parts LLC motor. I don't think that he's a professional builder of performance engines. Not saying he doesn't know what he's doing but he doesn't have a track record. I'm really not trying to bash on your engine or the builder. Just saying that he might be just a guy learning as he goes. Edit 2 - Curious - does he supply a build sheet with the engine with measurements, things like combustion chamber volume or flow numbers, cam/valve timing numbers (opening and closing), distributor specs, etc? That would tell something also about what you might expect from the collection of parts.

Did you get it? Somebody did. I have to be honest (actually I don't but anyway) I put the first bid on, before I realized that it was an Illumina not an HP. I need just one HP shock, and saw the BZ3038, didn't know that Tokico would use the same part number for both (weird). Glad someone will get some use out of it. Auction's over so the link doesn't work anymore.

I think that the purpose is to "pause" or "check" the striking rod when you're pulling down from 5th gear. If you've used an older model 5 speed you know that it's super easy to drop in to R from 5th, there's no check sleeve. It only fits two ways and pops in an out. Install it, try the 5th to 4th shift, if it's too easy or binds up, flip it. You can try it out before you re-install the transmission. You might find that it only works one way. Or you can stare at the striking rod and the check sleeve and logic it out. It might be obvious. I've looked myself. but I didn't put the time or thought in to it. If it makes no sense, I have an 83 in the garage I could take a look at.

Here's a start - http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=bz3038&_sacat=0&_from=R40 One at a time...

You could match up the rust and grime marks. Or put it all together and see which way "checks" reverse. Or both.

Don't you have two pivot lines at the inner mounts? At the bushings and at the spherical bearings at the adjustable rod ends. How will that work? I've been confused before...

Are the three different seals by year? Different seals for different years? I would find out more about the seals. Elimination might leave you with the right one. Compare what you have to what's shown in the PD chapter of the Q45 FSM's. I think that one of the differences might be the ABS rings. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

Are you still at 36 static and 60+ all in?

I guess I don't understand the flow path then (seriously, I don't). I looked at the illustration in the FSM and it seems to show the path after the filter in the center, down to the main bearings and up to the cylinder head, and the path from the pump in front of the filter, with the gauge port on it. Which seems to fit seeing an increase in pressure if the filter bypass was blocked, and it had been opening. If the gauge port is after the filter then blocking the filter bypass should drop the gauge reading since all oil will suffer the pressure drop of passing through the filter. From which your question follows. My mistake. I have a short block inthe garage but have never had one apart.

NapsZ? Common truck motor. 4 cylinder. It's on the Google.

If understand the flow paths and gauge port position correctly, blocking the filter bypass could actually increase the gauge reading (pressure before the filter) and reduce oil flow to the parts that need it. Giving a false warm fuzzy feeling. A pressure reading from the center supply line to the head would tell more about oil supply and pressure. Ideally, you'd have a guage in the head also, after the restrictor inthe top of the block.

He's from Belgium, there may be a language barrier. English is not primary. Step 14. Using the round file, file the inside of the carrier down until the damper body can fit through it easily. The "damper body" is the "shock body". It's the Bilstein. The hole in the center of the "female carrier" is apparently too small to fit over the body of the Bilstein. A tool (round file) is used to make the hole bigger.

Actually that's a good way to damage an alternator. The current surge can cause damage. But, since it's been done, that would be an indication that your alternator is not generating curremt or it's wired wrong. It's not normal. The better way to test is with a voltmeter. Measure at idle and at higher RPM. Typically a good alternator will generate 14 volts +/- ~0.2. Battery voltage is 12.6, so above 12.6 is what the alternator is putting out.

Did you find out what was makng the "bouncing marble" noise? The original problem? The fabrication and welding work looks good. Hope it all works. Have you tried to fit the bearing back in to the bearing mount you welded in?