NewZed

Are the three different seals by year? Different seals for different years? I would find out more about the seals. Elimination might leave you with the right one. Compare what you have to what's shown in the PD chapter of the Q45 FSM's. I think that one of the differences might be the ABS rings. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/

Are you still at 36 static and 60+ all in?

I guess I don't understand the flow path then (seriously, I don't). I looked at the illustration in the FSM and it seems to show the path after the filter in the center, down to the main bearings and up to the cylinder head, and the path from the pump in front of the filter, with the gauge port on it. Which seems to fit seeing an increase in pressure if the filter bypass was blocked, and it had been opening. If the gauge port is after the filter then blocking the filter bypass should drop the gauge reading since all oil will suffer the pressure drop of passing through the filter. From which your question follows. My mistake. I have a short block inthe garage but have never had one apart.

NapsZ? Common truck motor. 4 cylinder. It's on the Google.

If understand the flow paths and gauge port position correctly, blocking the filter bypass could actually increase the gauge reading (pressure before the filter) and reduce oil flow to the parts that need it. Giving a false warm fuzzy feeling. A pressure reading from the center supply line to the head would tell more about oil supply and pressure. Ideally, you'd have a guage in the head also, after the restrictor inthe top of the block.

He's from Belgium, there may be a language barrier. English is not primary. Step 14. Using the round file, file the inside of the carrier down until the damper body can fit through it easily. The "damper body" is the "shock body". It's the Bilstein. The hole in the center of the "female carrier" is apparently too small to fit over the body of the Bilstein. A tool (round file) is used to make the hole bigger.

Actually that's a good way to damage an alternator. The current surge can cause damage. But, since it's been done, that would be an indication that your alternator is not generating curremt or it's wired wrong. It's not normal. The better way to test is with a voltmeter. Measure at idle and at higher RPM. Typically a good alternator will generate 14 volts +/- ~0.2. Battery voltage is 12.6, so above 12.6 is what the alternator is putting out.

Did you find out what was makng the "bouncing marble" noise? The original problem? The fabrication and welding work looks good. Hope it all works. Have you tried to fit the bearing back in to the bearing mount you welded in?

For all of the aggravation the other options seem to bring, this kit seems inviting. Haven't really seen any indication of how much power it will take - http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72&Itemid=61

It looks like a relay. Honda?

You can browse around the site below for part numbers and check at the second one for availability. I saw your other question. I'd guess that many viewers are shocked at the carnage. Most would probably just get another transmission or tail housing. The specs. for rebuilding are in the Factory Service Manual in the MT chapter (also below). http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionCase/5Speed/tabid/1702/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/ www.xenons130.com/reference www.xenons30.com/reference

You're talking about the tension/compression rod. People do rubber in the back and urethane in front because all-urethane has led to the end of the rod breaking off in some cases (mine did). Plus all urethane can lead to much more noise (creaking and groaning), at least it did in my case. To be clear though, I did the rods without doing the control arm bushings. I think that the worn bushings put more load on the T/C rod bushings in certain situations. Some people do fine with all urethane, but the urethane in the back only sees real work in reverse. It's a better-safe scenario.

It could be 280Z (two wires that come out of the side of it would lead to an ignition module), 280ZX (it would have a black box [the ignition module] bolted to the side of it) or Mallory Unilite (popular for the 240Z's, ignition module under the cap). Got a camera? Here's the last one - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4042

What's under the cap? Points or electronic?

You should study up on the basics of how engines, transmissions, and clutches work. You have a ways to go. The Factory Service Manual is actually very good as an educational book, it's worth reading.

Seems like somebody could make a few dollars producing gland nuts if they wanted. They're not very complex.

Tight dowel hole maybe? Or are the holes definitely in the wrong spots?

Did you try the other two orientations? They only fit one way although they look like they'll fit three ways. Spin it.

Bilstein no good or won't work?

I missed that piece. Seems more like the relief valve in the pump then, but if you've tried two pumps that would be unlikely. You said that you have a mechanical gauge but are you sure it's reliable? You might have replaced a very bad gauge, the stock one, with a still bad gauge. The liquid-filled gauges are known to be susceptible to heat effects. Details on the gauge might offer a clue.

Need or needed? Is the rebuild done? How are the results?

How about an oil cooler? Pulled this link off of a Google search because it has a good illustration - http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/oiltemperature.htm

The power transistor (also called an "ignitor") controls current to the coil, and the transistor is controlled by the ECU. The 280ZXT transistor is out in the open on the coil bracket and looks like a quarter-sized metal object. The 300ZX transistor seems to be a little more hidden but still looks the same. There's a drawing of all of the parts on page EFEC-4. It's shown under the coil. The transistor does essentailly the same thing that the ignition module used to do on your 77's original system. Except that "dwell" control is handled by the ECU in the 300ZX ECCS, where it's handled by the module in the 77 system. If you don't have a transistor the ECU can't control the coil. The transistor is supposed to be at the end of one the wires in your wiring instructions. Page EFEC-13 shows the factory wiring to the coil, and how the L (blue) wire connects from the coil negative to the transistor (that's where it controls the coil ground). They do go bad sometimes, apparently, especially if not grounded correctly.

Page 93 says "CHECK GROUND CIRCUIT". If you're getting ignition pulse and the ECU isn't using it, maybe the ECU is bad. But you've tried three so that's unlikely. I'm guessing that your CAS isn't right. How did you measure "ignition pulse"? Did you use a "logic probe"? Or did you just measure voltage? You have to have the pulse. That's all I know. I would study the FSM. Inputs > ECU > outputs. Somebody will probably have some ideas if you show what and how you measured and the numbers you got.

Doesn't make a difference. Good luck.