NewZed

#2 is the gear set that 1980 ZX 5 speed uses. For some reason Nissan only kept it around for one model year. I have one and 5th gear does feel like it belongs there, not a big jump to 5th. I had an 83 in my car for a little while and the 4-5 jump was noticeable.

The distance from the surface of the flywheel to the surface of the collar that the fork rides on (the "ears") should be about 92 mm. Pressure plate heights vary, along with collars. The transmissions commonly used all have the same mounting point for the slave cylinder. It's the stack height of the pressure plate and collar that matters. Assuming that the parts are assembled correctly.

You're beating around the bush. It's a lie, a dishonesty, a fib, for Rocky Auto to say that they built that car. That's the issue. This isn't about the car, it's about what Rocky Auto said. It's about the words used to sell the car. Does Rocky Auto tell lies to sell cars? This question has to be answered first, then, of course, many words can be written about how "everybody lies" therefore it's okay. As far as stealing, taking credit for someone else's work is stealing. Doesn't matter if you bought the material good. Just like selling prints of of a painting tht you didn't paint is illegal. It's your paper and your printing equipment but the "thought" that went in to the work of art isn't yours to resell. To be blunt, Rocky Auto looks like a group of lying con men. If they were advertising "cars that we liked and bought and are now reselling", then everything you say about ownership would matter. But they're telling lies, so it doesn't.

Japanese business practice is similar to ours. They sue, just like us, if someone steals their creations. Check out Fistful of Dollars and Yojimbo. Reference below. Cultures are made up of individuals, some flawed. Trying to justify what Rocky Auto is doing by defining it as part of the Japanese culture may be denigrating the Japanese in an attempt to save face for one person (Watanabe). To me, it looks like what commonly happens when a business starts riding on an individual's reputation. Rocky Auto and Speedhunter seem to both be profiting at the expense of Watanabe's reputation. Pretty common. It's not about the culture, it's about making money. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yojimbo_%28film%29 "n 1964, Yojimbo was remade as A Fistful of Dollars, a spaghetti western directed by Sergio Leone and starring Clint Eastwood in his first appearance as the Man with No Name. Leone and his production company failed to secure the remake rights to Kurosawa's film, resulting in a lawsuit that delayed Fistful's release in North America for three years."

For a 0.86 5th, you need to find a gear pair that works out to .86 * .7931 > 0.682. Like 30 and 44. Or 21 and 31 (close). The last edit in my post #7 really just raises the question of what the tooth count is on Nissan part #32310-58S54. The guy says it's 22 and 37 but who knows. Maybe you can find someone out there to open some boxes for you.

I tried to find some old threads over on zcar.com by Norm the 12 second SU guy but it's pretty impossible to find anything over there. Their search engine is Google. But I did find an old John Coffey post that might be interesting - http://www.zcar.com/forum/13-car-talk-forum/244617-4-vs-5-speed-3.html Pretty sure that the 12 second guy had some threads on swapping 5th gear. Might be worth more looking. Edit - actually the information I was looking for is on Page 1 of that thread. John Coffey's post is on Page 3. Edit 2 - http://www.courtesyparts.com/overdrive-p-343102.html Edit 3 - of course there's always someone raising a question - http://sports.dir.groups.yahoo.com/group/westcoastzracer/message/8440

www.xenons30.com/reference or http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1977/ Engine Fuel chapter. Unfortunately the 1977 FSM isn't separated by chapter. It's a pain, you have to download the whole thing.

You have a vacuum leak from the carbon canister hoses and a very rich condition from the coolant temp. sensor being disconnected. Who knows which is causing your no-start. The thing about the EFI is it really really likes to have everything connected and working correctly.

The ECU and injectors don't care about ignition timing. Pin 1 at the ECU connector is supposed to be connected to the negative terminal of the coil. One simple thing you can do is check continuity from Pin 1 to that post. Is everything re-assembled as it was before you replaced the head gasket or are you trying to start it before putting everything back together? Or did you do a few other things while you were in there?

Won't the T5 driveshaft be a ZX driveshaft and of the wrong length? Won't fit a Z body? It will need to be cut. Plus you have an early body, which causes problems. Binding half-shafts with the R200 swap. Cut driveshaft, mustache bar, 280Z R200 stub axles, shortening a half-shaft to avoid binding - getting expensive and it's not even what you really want. The very cheapest, simplest in-the-mean-time option might be back to the R180. The ZX T5 driveshaft is probably the wrong length anyway. Have a custom shaft made, with the right flange for the R180 on it, and take it easy on the diff. The Subaru R180 swap in the early bodies is popular, I think, because it avoids all of those problems that seem small but actually take a lot of work and money to fix.

Supply more information. The engine ran at one time, otherwise it would not have made it from 1977 to today. Something happened in the meantime. The ECU grounds the injectors when it detects that the coil has created a spark three times. If the injectors have power, they will open. If there is pressure in the injector, it will squirt.

You didn't mention the RPM component of your timing control scheme. Only manifold pressure. Maybe it's in there just not described. By the way, as you can see from your diagram, the 280Z sensor won't work in that scheme. It produces its own voltage as the rotor tip passes by. It doesn't have external power.

There should be a drain plug on the bottom of your radiator. Designed with a hole or slot in it to dribble slowly when loosened so that you don't have to remove it completely to drain fluid. You can reach it from the front of the car, it's either on the driver's side or in the middle. Has wings like a wing nut. For finger usage.

I think that your reasoning for motorcycle coils might be off. Wasted spark doubles the load, COP reduces it to 1/6 (six coils instead of one). So a reduction to 1/3 the load of a single coil system - 2 * 1/6. A three coil wasted spark would be 2 (the doubling) * 1/3 = 2/3 the load of a single coil system. So your COP wasted spark reduces the load to half of a standard wasted spark setup but still doesn't need motorcycle coils. Your math might be assuming that all coils fire at any single cylinder's combustion cycle. That would be a lot of wasted spark and each coil would see the same duty cycle as a single coil. The only benefit would be redundancy of coils to allow the engine to keep runing if a coil failed. I think that the MSD 7AL uses spark retard for timng control also (not positive, it's hard to find rechnical details on it). Controlled by dials on the box or programmable by computer. My reasoning or understanding could be off. Looks interesting though.

Maybe you were spinning the pump the wrong way. Should go counterclockwise, reverse speed on a drill motor.

I would replace hoses also while you're at it. They're probably old and ready to split, which sucks if it happens wile you're driving. Especially if you don't notice until your temp. gauge is pegged out. Domzs's suggestion reminded me, since pinching an old hose will often cause it to split.

If you open it up or look at the wiring diagram you'll see that not all 35 pins are used. For the record. Good luck with your dilemma.

I have a 76 that came with a 4 speed and that is the same ECU number, except for the K. Maybe the K indicates Reman. I would run it on mine. It should work fine. Looks in good shape also, no corrosion.

Fluid in the cooling system will drain out until the new fluid level is at the level of the part you've removed. Therefore, it depends on the level of the fluid in your cooling system before you start. Check under the radiator cap to get an estimate.

My 76 used to do that. You can adjust the contact switch in the AFM to make it go away. Could also be that your brake booster is leaking intake vacuum, causing the low RPM and low air flow that causes the AFM switch to open.

The ignition module is above and forward of the fuse box. About 5" x 5" dark green box. Resistance values for the dropping resistors are shown on page EF-56. Most of your testing can be done right at the ECU connector. Look through the FSM to find the right value, look at the wiring diagram to see what pins tocheck at the connector. The connector is the best place to start since what the ECU sees is what's important. 76 and 78 have some differences in wiring at the igntion module and at some of the relays.

You're double-posting. You should answer Leon's question in the other thread.

Are you saying it looks like that now? You did that? It looks terrible. If your distributor works, the GM HEI module is pretty easy to wire up. If you have an HEI module, a good distributor and a good coil, you could have spark in about 20 minutes. But if you wire it up like your picture, you'll probably short something and damage it pretty quick. That old module in your picture might already be damaged. The HEI module might already be damaged. They have to be wired correctly with no shorts to ground, from the beginning. They're sensitive. No spark, no start, so you might as well focus on that before you do anything else.

Get some stock turbo injectors. With a stock turbo system, 90 psi, and 370cc injectors you should be blowing raw fuel out the tail pipe. Stock injectors and a stock FPR should be a good starting point. You have a bunch of wrongness going on.

Is that picture your work or the PO's? What kind of messing did you do, and what was your reasoning?