NewZed

Thanks for the link. That should help the OP out if he reads through it. The semantics problem is general to dampers around the auto world, I think, as you noted in in the link, since it's often referred to as a "balancer". The idea of "damping" energy is uncommon and misunderstood, and harmonics hard to understand, so we end up with dampners and moistening devices. Not claiming to feel super comfortable talking about harmonics myelf, to be clear. As far as harmonics and the L6, I wonder if the Porsches and VW's the OP refers to are 4 cylinder engines. Different harmonics maybe?

The balance and harmonics concepts might be getting interchanged here. Seems like everyone in this thread supports having a damper. Where's the link to the thread about dampers where it's said you don't need one? Only TEP and you seem to be saying that.

Found on Google. For discussion, don't know anything about its performance. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Car-Lightweight-Single-Groove-Aluminum-Crank-Pulley-/310246632272 and http://www.racetep.com/nissan.html I thought the damper was for harmonics damping, not balancing. (Edit - semantics, maybe..) Edit #2 - I can't find a sign on the interweb that anyone has ever actually bought and used one of TEP's damperless pulleys.

You forgot to sign it. Where can we get prints?

You bled your brakes and "now" the pedal goes to the floor because you have a rotor that was turned off-perpendicular? If your brakes worked before, and you didn't just have your rotors turned then you probably don't have the exact same problem. The black in the brake fluid is probably worn out seal material. When you bled the brakes you probably pushed the MC piston down in to a rusty zone and finished off the seal. Try blocking the ports at the MC like RangerWill did and see if you can build pressure. If not, the MC needs work.

Too wordy. Try to simplify.

I actually thought it would be more than 5/16", between 1 and 2 inches (recalled from one of Xnke's previous threads, I think). And I think that measuring to the end of the output shaft might be more important, although the dust shield matters too. Have you compared bellhousings (front cases)? I'm not familiar with the CA20 engine (Leon's link), it may not have the same tilt/angle and bolt pattern as the L engine. You might be in to a bellhousing swap, with machining and/or bearing swaps required. Whatever it is you're working with doesn't seem to be a common transmission used for the Z's.

There are actually two - one written in 1975 and one in 1980. The other one is at the S130 xenon site. Called Fuel Injection Guide or Book. Non-denominational. Best to use the FSM and the guides together. The guides have better drawings and diagrams, but the FSM is more model specific, for relays, part locations, etc.

It's called the "transverse link" in the FSM, instead of LCA.

The last few pages of the RA chapter have some numbers.

Any thought to plumbing a gauge in to the crankcase, via the valve cover perhaps, to see what's happening and when? Since it's just "gas" not liquid, and should be sucking not pushing, you could run a hose in to the cabin or up on the cowl, and mount the gauge in view without risking making a big mess.

Anti-seize used instead of oil? Less friction = more tension for the same torque value. Thinking outside the usual, if one was planning to re-use head bolts shouldn't they measure the torque required to remove them? They can be over-torqued and stressed past yield point on the way out also. Not stretched but twisted. Just thinking...

http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=5a6_1369542482

You may be right. Probably so that they can lower emissions. Lower emissions was one of the key drivers for EFI. If that's the goal, then the closer the better.

Weird how a company can make a good name for itself and still do stuff like some guy like me in his garage making one-off parts. No dowel holes and mount with six sloppy-fitting bolts. I don't get it. No competition, I assume.

Isn't there a little more to it than just pointing the injector at the back of the valve head? Spray pattern, sequential versus batch, time of injection even if sequential is used. In batch mode, firing off of every third spark, only one cylinder might have an intake valve open (I haven't tried to calculate it exactly), even that might change with advance curve action. A sharp stream impinging on a closed intake valve might not be as desirable as a cloud of fuel created and waiting for the valve to open. Just something I've pondered before. For the best balance and effectiveness between cylinders, it seems like injection should be timed to the intake valve opening. Maybe not when it's actually open, but at some definite period before or during. In batch, there are three injection positions, with pairs of cylinders swapping a position. I think it might one reason the injected straight sixes have a not-so-smooth idle. Having the injector as close to the back of the intake valve as possible might only matter if you have the EFI system to take advantage.

You can probably find some wiring diagrams here - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ You might just take a timing light to the engine before worrying about the distributor shaft. It runs, it can't be too far off.

The only "o-ring" that matters is the one that seats in the manifold. And it seals "vacuum" or intake leaks, not fuel. The big ring at the top is just a locating and isolating mounting piece. You said you thought you had a timing issue. Did you measure it, even at 1500 RPM? That would tell something. What is it? You saw a small flame at the injector seal area. Was their popping back through the intake when you saw it? If you're running lean and/or your timing is off you can get popping back through the intake. Otherwise, there shouldn't be any flames in the intake manifold. What is your fuel pressure while this was happening? If you can get it running steady at a fairly low RPM, you should measure timing and fuel pressure, and check for intake leaks with carb spray or starting fluid sprayed around the usual leak areas. Determine if it's running rich or lean while it's idling (move the AFM vane). Take some notes on what happens when you give it throttle. That will give you some numbers that you can use and a "state-of-the-system" to work against for future changes. Right now you have a random list of numbers and events but not much connection between them.

Where did you get 3/4"?

Isn't the truck transmission shorter? Maybe the 200SX also. Might be good to measure. I've seen those synchro differences and I was under the impression that it's just a different design for the same function. The critical dimensions are probably the same, just some teeth missing on one. Edit - actually they might be shorter than the 240SX 71C, but similar or the same as the 280Z 71B.

Here's an odd possibility, if you assume the hydraulics are right - the bearing wasn't seated fully in the throwout collar. After using it a few times it dropped down and now it's too short. Just another thing to think about. I would be surpried though if that was the problem. Interesting thoughts on the WOT test he did, but I've always thought that once a clutch starts slipping it keeps slipping unless there's more pressure put on the disc. Where does the change in pressure come from to cause it to grab again? Anyway, have fun. You might measure the slave cylinder travel first and compare it to what it should be before tearing things apart. If it's got full travel, changing the MC won't help. The number is out there somewhere.

Sounds like either your master or slave cylinder are leaking. The column of hydraulic fluid is shortened when the leakage occurs. The leak is slow, that's why you get a moment where it works, then it leaks down to where it doesn't. I forgot to say in Post #4 that the slave cylinder that leaked was new. And the replacement I got, under warranty, had leftover grit from the honing operation inside. The clylinders weren't cleaned before they were packed and shipped so the first one failed early. Just poor manufacturing procedures.

This says that you have all of the right parts, but one or more of them failed. You're searching in the light, when the source of the problem is in the dark (my new catch phrase).

Heat makes a huge difference. It doesn't have to be about- to-warp-red-hot. I used a vice, some sockets or pipe fittings and a MAPP gas torch. Tightened up the vice and it wouldn't budge until I got it warm. It would stop moving as it cooled. Heat will make the hammer method easier also.

Have you checked the slave cyinder for leakage? I had one that leaked fluid/pressure in the middle of its stroke. It held pressure at the end and moved the entire time but didn't travel the full distance. The rubber dust boot was ful of fluid.