NewZed

Were they sparks flying at any time while you were working on it? Maybe you blew a fuse or burned a fusible link. You said the EFI relay works, how do you know? Have you checked for power to the ECU at the connector? Get a multimeter and check the basics. Power to the ECU, power to the injectors, power to the fuel pump while Starting (on the 280Z's you can disconnect the starter solenoid wire to test the fuel pump, I don't know how the ZXT system works). Make a list of stuff that's right and stuff that's not.

Compare your first post comments, above, to your last post. You seem to be losing track of what works and what doesn't. You have to be methodical and careful to diagnose engine problems. You're all over the place and not making sense, in just one day.

It would be good to see all of the details on both setups. Cam grinder, shaft material, nitriding on just one or both, break-in lube, oil used for the first 500 miles, ZDDP, etc. From what I see about nitriding, it's supposed to reduce galling. Metal to metal contact is always bad so maybe it's just oil quantity. I didn't see anything about oil type in the previous posts. Maybe the nitrided surface needs polishing before use to be effective, since it's too hard to wear in. I seem to recall that the process leaves a rough surface behind. Interesting problem. Edit - the nitriding process would good to know also, since there are several.

Can you up the idle speed enough to keep it running and get a timing number? Or get one while cranking? That's what I'd do.

I haven't built any engines in real life, only in my head. I just threw that out as something that might match the evidence, a brainstorming thing. I could be way off. Since everything is installed, it would be easy to measure how much room is left in the springs at maximum lift. Valve lash generally gets looser when hot, but it's hard to imagine what the springs and valves might do. You might find you have tons of room and can think about some other potential cause. It might be something as simple as poor heat treating on the rocker arm pads.

Maybe Gollum wrote too many words. The engine doesn't matter. Injector impedance must match the electronics of the EMS. Specify the EFI system - ECU, harness, car it came from, details like that - and someone might have an answer.

WAG on inline's problem - coil bind on the springs? Maybe after everything gets hot. Can't really tell from the straight-on picture angle but it looks like the wear is happening evenly before and after maximum lift, when you'd think that it would happen where the ramp starts and on the way up.

Crap. I hate being wrong. I thought the weird ones were used in 1970. They changed the transmission tunnel from the 71 to 72 model? Here's a link that might be helpful - http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg Sorry for the misinformation.

You might take another look at the EGR device. On a 1978 N47 manfiold once you block the top with a plate, the bottom ports don't matter anymore, unless the passages are rusted through. You only have to worry about the exhaust manifold supply line from the exhaust manifold, which you don't have. The turbo system could be different, I've not seen one up close.

Pretty sure that an M16 bolt with a notch ground in to the side will self-cut its own threads in to the inside of the pipe on the exhaust manifold. If you can't get the threaded portion out (I couldn't) and ended up breaking the pipe off. Might help if that's what you're talking about...

The J30's are VLSD. They're shown in the pd chapter of the FSM if you want to take a look. Many of them have a sticker on them that says "viscous" or similar, I believe. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/ There's another thread on Hybridz from a guy who used one open R200 axle/companion flange, and cut and welded the u-joint half-shaft flange on to the VLSD axle for the other side. Same as before, says it works but not recommended. The only easy, plug-n-play way to get limited slip seems to be the 87-89 Z31 CLSD's. All of the other options require welding, and/or machining (adapters with mix and match CV shafts), or buying a kit from someone who's done the welding and machining. It's a bummer.

You can do all of that but your open stub axle won't engage the two side of the VLSD viscous clutch. You'll still have an open differental. One of the VLSD axles is much longer than the similar axle in the open diff. There's a thread on Hybridz somewhere from someone who cut the two axles and welded them together to make a hybrid axle. It seems difficult and most pros don't recommend welding axles but he did it and says it works. No idea how it's holding up.

I screwed up (or got screwed up by the post). I saw 3.9 and thought you were talking about the differential. Not sure why you used 3.9 to describe a transmission. Although you should consider that point (3.9 vs 3.36), since the ZX 5 speed will be boggy in 1st with a 3.36 diff. But that wasn't your question. The 1971 240Z used the 71B type transmission. It should be a straight swap. The transmissions are essentially the same, except for the gears. I'm not sure what 74_5 is referring to. You might have to carve some space out of the shifter opening for the shift lever in 5th gear or bend the lever. I have an early 71 driveshaft in my garage and it is the same on the ends as my 280Z driveshaft. Omly the length is different, because the early z"s had the diff set forward. There's a ton out there on the internet about the swap you're planning.

He's going to the stock factory 280Z setup. A factory Z driveshaft should work. Hope he knows about the mustache bar.

Isn't member Burleigh making a brace for this - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98295-steel-brace-for-r200-clsd-finned-cover-in-s30-new-list-and-design/ ?

The thermotime switch only runs the cold start valve. Once the engine starts, it's useless. Often people look at the CSV as a potential leak source for excess fuel but it's uncommon. Worth a check though. You're deep enough in to it that sitting down and reading the Engine Fuel chapter from page 1 would really help you out. It will help focus your feelings. Good luck.

Dan might be on to something. ~36 psi is the right number without the vacuum hose, ~26-28 with (in my experience) with the hose connected and engine idling. If the vacuum hose is connected, check it for gasoline. It should be dry. Your FPR might be damaged. By the way, your first post "videos" are just pictures. On my computer.

On a 280Z, pin 13 is one leg of the water temperature sensor circuit. That's what I was talking about, you said no continuity. That's the one you should be getting a resistance reading on. Wires 45 and 46 are the thermotime switch and the CSV. Yu should read ~60 ohms through the resistance of the heater in the thermotime switch when it's cold. So 60* is a litle confusing there too, what does the * mean? But it's not the water temp sensor anyway. A 280Z ECU connector only has 35 pins. Are you reporting the numbers shown in the FSM? You can do most of what you need to know right at the 35 pin connector inthe car. You might want to work from a wiring diagram like the one on page EF-28 in the 78 FSM, it will help. Pin numbers to the ECU and parts labeled. But, as far as the thermotime switch and the water temp. sensor, they're very different. One's a sensor, one's a switch. Sorry. Sounds like you're almost to a solution. Don't forget that block could eaily be 10 degrees colder than outside (if the 4.28 you reported is actually the sensor reading).

You might have the thermotime and water temperature sensor connections reversed. They're both EV1 style. Try swapping them at the thermostat housing and recheck resistance at the ECU connector. And/or measure resistance directly across the two pins on the water temp. sensor at the thermostat housing. It's a tight squeeze but doable. Measure resistance don't just do a go/no-go continuity test. There's a table in the Engine Fuel chapter of resistance versus temperature.

As Old Andy implied, the fact that it ran for a little while after a jump suggests that your battery is dead. Apparently the EFI systems don't like low voltage. What does your voltmeter show before and while trying to start? A new battery might get you home. Another thought is that the Fireball coil is low resistance on the primary side. That could damage your ignition module, especially if the ballast resistor is removed also. You'll get more current through the whole circuit. Ignition modules are hard to diagnose though, but they do tend to fail when hot.

What car? Ignition system, module, distributor, ECU, etc.

As Xnke says, but check at the ECU connector. Then you'll know what the ECU sees. Compare the resistance reading to the temperature table in the FSM or the Fuel Injection book.

No word play gold star for me, I can't take credit. It must have been subliminable. I wasn't thinking it when I wrote it. On that point though, could you shave the keys down on the sides to get the same effect as opening the slot? Is there neough meat on the key? And what about downshifting? I assume the other side of the slot comes in to play. It'll be great news for all rebuilders if this procedure is simple enough for the average mechanic to do. I've read many threads around the internet about people rebuilding their Z transmission only to still have grinding problems afterward. Thanks for documenting.

Make sure you consider the fuel pressure that the flow rate is taken at. Some rates shown on various web sites seem to be for the factory setting, but other independent test results are taken at a different pressure, typically 3 bar (43.5 psi). The Z setting is 2.5 bar (36.3 psi), but I don't know if the 188-190 cc/min rate people talk about is taken at 2.5 or 3 bar. And more modern injectors are run at an even higher pressure. I've searched around but often find rates listed with no test pressure. If you're lucky you'll find some independent testing that lists pressures and rates for the injectors you're looking at.

Re-read posts #117 and 133. They hold the key.