NewZed

1976.

I think that you confused people when you said that you were perfectly happy with the stock setup, but might go with a Wilwood 1" master cylinder. That would just give you less pedal travel with more pedal force required, to get the same braking effect. It would be different from what was working fine. The cheapest, fastest way to get right back to the system that works perfectly would probably be to buy a rebuilt stock MC. Take it apart and clean it up before installing to be sure there's no honing residue inside.

Any possibility that the "auto clean" wire is more important than you thought. Maybe it needs to be connected, maybe it's not just auto clean, maybe it's not auto clean at all.

I'm fairly certain that the easiest way to tell is to look for a CHTS in the vicinity of, underneath and between, the 5 and 6 spark plugs. The 280Z N47 doesn't have one, the Maxima does. Of course, they both have N47 molded underneath and between the 1 and 2 plugs.

Broken e-brake light switch. Low fluid (ZX). Pressure imbalance front to back. Key at Run, but engine not running. Shorted wires....

Number 9...number 9... It's in the link I included. Also called strut mount. Sits between the top of the strut and the car body.

Turn signal flasher?

Have you read through the EFEC chapter of a Z31 FSM? Page EFEC - 30 looks interesting in 1988, for instance. Page 35 has a diagnostic table with some suggestions also.

Not positive but I think that you could swap the 240z backng plate for a 77-78 280Z backing plate and keep the drums, with wheel cylinders costing about $15 each. You'd have to pull the axles to get the plate off. Or you could swap the whole strut assembly and get stronger axles also. Might be worth considering with a V8, if you come across the parts. If you're running an R200, or plan to, it might also relieve the u-joint half-shaft binding problem.

The insulator, and a spacer that sits inside it, should be considered. If the car doesn't sit level they might be degraded. And the bump stops tend to disappear over time. I've only seen one in place, on12 struts that I've worked on up close, two cars of my one and a wrecking yard car. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

He says "Arizona heat" in one of the videos. All closeup, no distance shots. No actual driving video, just a 5 foot backup. Hood doesn't match, the usual signs of some accident fixing, probably ran in to something. Looks iffy. Good luck.

Do you have adjustable camber plates or are you using the stock rubber insulator? The insulators can vary in height and also have a rubber spacer inside that gets crushed over time.

The OP said he wants more acceleration. That would be the best tell on what he wants, probably. But he does have a 4.11 so is almost pegged out already. Maybe he's riding on 22"s. That wouldn't help.

That sounds like a reasonable chain of events. Firm deadlines will drive a company to expensive decisions though. I'd be surprised if there weren't parallel efforts by the oil companies to make an oil that would do the job, 100,000 miles, without the P and Zn, but they just ran out of time. When the deadline gets close and the decisions get made a lot of good stuff gets left on the shelf. I wonder if their efforts toward a better oil made it to market anyway.

CO2/dry ice blasting might work. It will freeze it and make it glassy and brittle. Mixed CO2 and blasting media might work even better but I'm not sure people do that, but I'd be surprised if someone out there doesn't. I'm no expert on cleaning metals, just some experience with coatings and materials.

I've put over 20,000 miles each on two old high mileage L28 engines, using a variety of modern oils from Quaker State 20-50W to Pennzoil 10-40W (whatever's on sale) and have not seen any signs of camshaft wear. My valve lash doesn't even change significantly. It seems to me that there might have been a problem in the early days of removing zinc from oil formulations but that the oil manufacturers have since fixed the problem. The whole zinc thing is old news and the high zinc formulations are unecessary. Has anyone seen that using today's oils, today, from a reputable supplier like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, etc., without added zinc, will wear out an already broken-in camshaft? How many people spend extra money to get added zinc complex in their oil?

Aren't you supposed to add an NSFW when you post a link like that? I learned more about SE Asia travel through the FAQs on that site than I ever knew before. Pretty informative. Thanks for the education.

You must be getting parts from your doppelganger. Here's an old slave cylinder I took off a 78 280Z.

Rock Auto doesn't make parts, they just resell. Which brand did you buy? Sometimes the good stuff is cheap at Rock Auto. There's a thread or two on this site about which u-joints are stronger, I believe.

To summarize - cracked L6 blocks are common. A crack between 2 and 3 is not common. Someone "rebuilt" the engine without noticing the crack (doesn't it project all the way through to the interior of the cylinder?). What happens if he just runs it as-is? Catastrophe or a slow death?

I'm just passing on the link. No idea who's selling it. Caveat emptor.

I'm not positive but I don't think that you can run two devices from one O2 sensor. Might be part of your problem.

Shipping from Portland to Portrush might be spendy - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3625163741.html

Hot wire the fuel pump for a short test. You might be losing power to the fuel pump. The safeties are bypassed at Start. On the 76, with the AFM fuel pump contacts, typically if it starts then dies after a few seconds, it's because the contacts aren't making contact. They need air passing through the AFM to stay closed. The fuel pump only comes on at Start or when the key is On and the AFM contacts are closed.

Wow, those Accel coils seem to be mysterious and magical. They don't list any specs. for the coils, they're all "Super" and they have instructions like this - "New resistors will smoke initially in operation and get extremely hot. This is normal". http://accel-ignition.com/original-super-coil-points.html http://accel-ignition.com/media/instructions/accel/ACCEL_Instructions_universal_super_coil_140001.pdf You've got a bunch of options. How much do you want to spend and how simple does it need to be? You can probably get a good conversation going on whether or not any distributor-initiated ignition system will handle 8,000 RPM. Let alone a stock (except for balancing, whatever that means) L24 engine with just a different cam. Don't forget to consider tachometer accuracy also, the needle may not be showing true RPM. Revving around at 8,000 RPM does sound like fun though.