NewZed

Don't forget radiant heat. It's line-of-sight. Any hot parts will be radiating heat and anything that is in the view of them will be absorbing it. Could be a hot spot on the bottom of the manifold.

The fuel may not be there but the heat still is. Do you have any heat shields at all? Nissan put a lot of effort in to keeping heat away from the fuel system, from rail and FPR to injectors.

Can't help you on the different measurements. I was considering usng the W24 manifold so took side-by-side measurements a couple of days ago, a 1981 P79/F54 engine manifold compared to an N47 from a 78 N47/N47. The TB diameter and bolt pattern and positioning is definitely different. The W24 TB from the ZX is surprisingly smaller than the N42, as are the hoses that connect it to the air filter. I didn't say that the turbo manifold was the same as the W24, I offered it as a possibility, since the W24 is different and comes from the same ZX body style. Which you'd know if you had one to measure. Looks like we're all adding to the confusion. Check valve (? - check valves don't generally "bleed" pressure), BOV, emergency relief valve (Nissan's term), definitions of each, how they work, where to plumb them and whether or not to use them. Looks messy. Yeehah.

Are you going to use the N42 manifold, or the turbo manifold? I was just comparing a ZX NA W24 intake to an N47 intake. The dimensions are slighty different, the throttle body mounting boss position is farther back (more room for you) and the throttle shaft also (the distance to the firewal will be shorter). And the N42 throttle body is bigger than the ZX, with a different bolt pattern. IIf you're using the N42 intake to mock up for the turbo intake, you might be wasting some time. Plus, the BCDD is probably hanging from the bottom of the turbo manifold, that's why there is none on the TB. Nissan moved it from the TB to the bottom of the manifold with the W24 manifold.

Make sure the stock igntion module is disconnected, and the wire ends insulated. One possibility. Otherwise, the connections look right. That's how my 76 is connected. And, by "HEI is grounded by a wire" you mean the mounting hole with the wide ferrule is grounded. That's the important one, I believe.

Where are you?

Even if you don't know what a CCR is (I don't) this is funny. http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=0d4_1362682283

When things don't make sense a checklist is one way to find the cause(s) of the problem. Verify fuel supply, power to various components, signals generated are getting to where they need to go, etc. Sometimes fixing one problem creates another. Running through the checklist after every attempted fix verifies that nothing was lost or changed by the fix. Most people experienced in working with engines have a mental checklist they run through. The OP is looking for a simple answer from someone who has had the same problem. It doesn't look like anyone has the answer so he'll have to start measuring and verifying that the system has what it needs to make the engine run correctly. The thread so far is a series of random guesses. My post #47 was one of them.

Honda? By the way, the FAQ sections are usually meant to be read and not posted in, unless useful information is being added.

This is what the 280Z's do when the fuel pump is only running on the Start circuit. Enough fuel pressure to start, then dies when the key is released and the fuel pump turns off. Are you measuring fuel pressure while starting? The buzzing relay could be a sign of a pump power/pressure problem.

1976.

I think that you confused people when you said that you were perfectly happy with the stock setup, but might go with a Wilwood 1" master cylinder. That would just give you less pedal travel with more pedal force required, to get the same braking effect. It would be different from what was working fine. The cheapest, fastest way to get right back to the system that works perfectly would probably be to buy a rebuilt stock MC. Take it apart and clean it up before installing to be sure there's no honing residue inside.

Any possibility that the "auto clean" wire is more important than you thought. Maybe it needs to be connected, maybe it's not just auto clean, maybe it's not auto clean at all.

I'm fairly certain that the easiest way to tell is to look for a CHTS in the vicinity of, underneath and between, the 5 and 6 spark plugs. The 280Z N47 doesn't have one, the Maxima does. Of course, they both have N47 molded underneath and between the 1 and 2 plugs.

Broken e-brake light switch. Low fluid (ZX). Pressure imbalance front to back. Key at Run, but engine not running. Shorted wires....

Number 9...number 9... It's in the link I included. Also called strut mount. Sits between the top of the strut and the car body.

Turn signal flasher?

Have you read through the EFEC chapter of a Z31 FSM? Page EFEC - 30 looks interesting in 1988, for instance. Page 35 has a diagnostic table with some suggestions also.

Not positive but I think that you could swap the 240z backng plate for a 77-78 280Z backing plate and keep the drums, with wheel cylinders costing about $15 each. You'd have to pull the axles to get the plate off. Or you could swap the whole strut assembly and get stronger axles also. Might be worth considering with a V8, if you come across the parts. If you're running an R200, or plan to, it might also relieve the u-joint half-shaft binding problem.

The insulator, and a spacer that sits inside it, should be considered. If the car doesn't sit level they might be degraded. And the bump stops tend to disappear over time. I've only seen one in place, on12 struts that I've worked on up close, two cars of my one and a wrecking yard car. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

He says "Arizona heat" in one of the videos. All closeup, no distance shots. No actual driving video, just a 5 foot backup. Hood doesn't match, the usual signs of some accident fixing, probably ran in to something. Looks iffy. Good luck.

Do you have adjustable camber plates or are you using the stock rubber insulator? The insulators can vary in height and also have a rubber spacer inside that gets crushed over time.

The OP said he wants more acceleration. That would be the best tell on what he wants, probably. But he does have a 4.11 so is almost pegged out already. Maybe he's riding on 22"s. That wouldn't help.

That sounds like a reasonable chain of events. Firm deadlines will drive a company to expensive decisions though. I'd be surprised if there weren't parallel efforts by the oil companies to make an oil that would do the job, 100,000 miles, without the P and Zn, but they just ran out of time. When the deadline gets close and the decisions get made a lot of good stuff gets left on the shelf. I wonder if their efforts toward a better oil made it to market anyway.

CO2/dry ice blasting might work. It will freeze it and make it glassy and brittle. Mixed CO2 and blasting media might work even better but I'm not sure people do that, but I'd be surprised if someone out there doesn't. I'm no expert on cleaning metals, just some experience with coatings and materials.