NewZed

Turn signal flasher?

Have you read through the EFEC chapter of a Z31 FSM? Page EFEC - 30 looks interesting in 1988, for instance. Page 35 has a diagnostic table with some suggestions also.

Not positive but I think that you could swap the 240z backng plate for a 77-78 280Z backing plate and keep the drums, with wheel cylinders costing about $15 each. You'd have to pull the axles to get the plate off. Or you could swap the whole strut assembly and get stronger axles also. Might be worth considering with a V8, if you come across the parts. If you're running an R200, or plan to, it might also relieve the u-joint half-shaft binding problem.

The insulator, and a spacer that sits inside it, should be considered. If the car doesn't sit level they might be degraded. And the bump stops tend to disappear over time. I've only seen one in place, on12 struts that I've worked on up close, two cars of my one and a wrecking yard car. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx

He says "Arizona heat" in one of the videos. All closeup, no distance shots. No actual driving video, just a 5 foot backup. Hood doesn't match, the usual signs of some accident fixing, probably ran in to something. Looks iffy. Good luck.

Do you have adjustable camber plates or are you using the stock rubber insulator? The insulators can vary in height and also have a rubber spacer inside that gets crushed over time.

The OP said he wants more acceleration. That would be the best tell on what he wants, probably. But he does have a 4.11 so is almost pegged out already. Maybe he's riding on 22"s. That wouldn't help.

That sounds like a reasonable chain of events. Firm deadlines will drive a company to expensive decisions though. I'd be surprised if there weren't parallel efforts by the oil companies to make an oil that would do the job, 100,000 miles, without the P and Zn, but they just ran out of time. When the deadline gets close and the decisions get made a lot of good stuff gets left on the shelf. I wonder if their efforts toward a better oil made it to market anyway.

CO2/dry ice blasting might work. It will freeze it and make it glassy and brittle. Mixed CO2 and blasting media might work even better but I'm not sure people do that, but I'd be surprised if someone out there doesn't. I'm no expert on cleaning metals, just some experience with coatings and materials.

I've put over 20,000 miles each on two old high mileage L28 engines, using a variety of modern oils from Quaker State 20-50W to Pennzoil 10-40W (whatever's on sale) and have not seen any signs of camshaft wear. My valve lash doesn't even change significantly. It seems to me that there might have been a problem in the early days of removing zinc from oil formulations but that the oil manufacturers have since fixed the problem. The whole zinc thing is old news and the high zinc formulations are unecessary. Has anyone seen that using today's oils, today, from a reputable supplier like Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, etc., without added zinc, will wear out an already broken-in camshaft? How many people spend extra money to get added zinc complex in their oil?

Aren't you supposed to add an NSFW when you post a link like that? I learned more about SE Asia travel through the FAQs on that site than I ever knew before. Pretty informative. Thanks for the education.

You must be getting parts from your doppelganger. Here's an old slave cylinder I took off a 78 280Z.

Rock Auto doesn't make parts, they just resell. Which brand did you buy? Sometimes the good stuff is cheap at Rock Auto. There's a thread or two on this site about which u-joints are stronger, I believe.

To summarize - cracked L6 blocks are common. A crack between 2 and 3 is not common. Someone "rebuilt" the engine without noticing the crack (doesn't it project all the way through to the interior of the cylinder?). What happens if he just runs it as-is? Catastrophe or a slow death?

I'm just passing on the link. No idea who's selling it. Caveat emptor.

I'm not positive but I don't think that you can run two devices from one O2 sensor. Might be part of your problem.

Shipping from Portland to Portrush might be spendy - http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/3625163741.html

Hot wire the fuel pump for a short test. You might be losing power to the fuel pump. The safeties are bypassed at Start. On the 76, with the AFM fuel pump contacts, typically if it starts then dies after a few seconds, it's because the contacts aren't making contact. They need air passing through the AFM to stay closed. The fuel pump only comes on at Start or when the key is On and the AFM contacts are closed.

Wow, those Accel coils seem to be mysterious and magical. They don't list any specs. for the coils, they're all "Super" and they have instructions like this - "New resistors will smoke initially in operation and get extremely hot. This is normal". http://accel-ignition.com/original-super-coil-points.html http://accel-ignition.com/media/instructions/accel/ACCEL_Instructions_universal_super_coil_140001.pdf You've got a bunch of options. How much do you want to spend and how simple does it need to be? You can probably get a good conversation going on whether or not any distributor-initiated ignition system will handle 8,000 RPM. Let alone a stock (except for balancing, whatever that means) L24 engine with just a different cam. Don't forget to consider tachometer accuracy also, the needle may not be showing true RPM. Revving around at 8,000 RPM does sound like fun though.

Have you measured fuel pressure? Timing? Looked for intake leaks? Can't go wrong with confirming that the basics are right before you get in to the fine details.

7 is colder than the factory recommended 6. As I understand heat range, you want to be hot enough to keep things clean (no carbon fouling), but cool enough to avoid damage. You've got a pretty good coating on your electrodes. Might be better of with the factory 6. I just had my plugs out last night and noticed that #1 porcelain is very white and clean compared to the rest, 3 and 4 seem a little brown and the rest look "normal". This has been common for the only two engines I've had, both with the same N42 intake manifold, one an N42/N42 head/block before and N42/N47 now. Seems like cylinder 1 might be getting extra air, making it a little lean or it runs hot. It's hard to tell which, or how to confirm. The flow imbalance idea seems reasonable, I've often wondered why my idle seems rougher than it should be.

There's not much to the spark initiation portion of the distributor. The only "new" part you'll get with another distributor that might be stopping spark is the pickup coil. Any of the 280Z pickup coils will swap in. You're just guessing and replacing though. You'll probably spend a lot of money and find out that your buddy left a wire disocnnected. Have you even checked for power to the coil?

Click "More Reply Options" at the bottom of the reply window > click "Browse" > choose the image file from your computer, it will take you back to the More Reply Options page > click "Attach This File" > click "Add Reply" to finish.

You have to crawl under the car and stick a long screwdriver up to the latch and release it. It's been described around the various forums. Pretty sure I saw some good stories about it over on classiczcar.com.

Old stock factory FPRs tend to leak down. They're not supposed to though, I think the valve just stops seating right after many years or rust holds them open. I've checked a bunch and found a few that don't leak down for days. I have one on the car now. The Aeromotive FPR design just doesn't hold pressure once the fuel pump shuts off. It regulates fine, just doesn't hold when flow stops. They're aware of the problem (I've emailed the company and received a reply). The other source of pressure leak down is the check valve in the fuel pump. They fail occasionally.