NewZed

It's the BCDD. Described in the Emissions chapter of the FSM. Lots of discussion about it aorund the internet. It uses a yellow wire for power, that comes through the same harness section that supplies the AFM.

The 78 FSM says to pry it out with a screwdriver (EL-4). For some reason the later ZX FSM's take that direction out, or moved it.

You can buy the missing bushings separately though, from various places.

Does it run well when it warms up? Bad injector seals (the kind the parts stores sell) will just cause a vacuum leak.

"Hook up to coil" doesn't tell much. Not a whole to work with in your post.

Why do you believe that? The Beck Arnley site has a picture of the product that looks exactly like Soup's gasket. They probably put the picture up because they keep getting calls about it.

The "P90" header would be shaped for the ZX body. Look at the pictures on the MSA site. The 70-76 header should have square ports. Put N42 in the cylinder head ID box. Or call them.

Which slot? The three that the keys ride in or some other? Trying to make sure I understand. That was some solid work to figure things out and get it done. And that guy Jack really dug deep on the mechanics of the synchros. I've never really understood well how the various pieces worked together until this thread.

It would be interesting if you did the imporved head cooling modification while you're at it. Many people think that's a big part of the detonation problem with these heads when you try high CR's. The topic's bobbing around on another forum, coincidentally.

I gave some bad numbers above, Page 30 is the 4 cylinder axle. Bottom of -31 is the "DS-90" VG30 inner CV. Drawing attached. Aftermarket CV axles can be totally different internally than the Nissan factory axles. Only the parts that connect to the car are the same. EMPI, for example.

Looks like there's a snap-ring. The FA chapter has a procedure (see link below), jump to FA-30 and -31. Interested in how it works for you. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/

He's been confused by the pictures on the atlanticz site about which gasket fits which block, or which head. The real question is "should the HG match the block or the head?" I've thought it was the head but the AZ site says the block. These internet sources might be worth a little more. There's pictures. If you've got a matching block/head combo it's a no-brainer. Notice that the Nissan part numbers contain the head ID, not the block ID. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/CylinderHead/tabid/1600/Default.aspx 76 number http://nissan4u.com/parts/280zx/us_s130/1982_4/type_23/engine_mechanical/cylinder_head_rocker_cover_camshaft_and_valve_mechanism/illustration_1/ not quite right year-wise but you can get the P79 number http://www.beckcatalog.com/ http://www.fme-cat.com/PassengerCarLightTruck.aspx

Check the bearings in the steel plate (adapter plate). You might find that a few balls are missing. Just a guess. The pilot bushing fits in to the end of the crankshaft, at the center of the flywheel. The nose of the transmission main drive gear (shaft with a gear on it) is supported by it. Maybe you're just ignoring me, but I'm curious.

Pilot bushing?

Your story is kind of confusing. You said that with the first transmission you "lost" first, then were driving, then locked up the wheels in third. On the second, you lost first, but didn't really say if third locked up again, although you did say it failed exactly the same way. Not really clear what "lost" means either, does the lever go to the place where first should be engaged and there's nothing? Or does it not go to the spot for first as at all? How did you get the car home if the rear wheels were locked up? Did they unlock and you just used second, fouth and fifth to drive it? By now, it seems like you would have at least drained the fluid from the first transmission and seen some broken pieces that would tell you something. The transmssions aren't known for this. They usually just make bearing noise and start grinding when shifting. One thought is that you don't have a pilot bushing in the end of your crankshaft and you're overloading and destroying the bearing in the adapter plate. That would be common to both transmissions. I've not had it happen, but it seems possible.

As you're looking at the small wiring diagrams in the Body Electrical chapter, you'll see a legend at the bottom of each that tells what color the letters stand for. Most make sense, except for blue, which is labeled with the letter L.

Tried to start a 63 Pontiac Bonnevile once, that had only sat for one year. It just wouldn't fire even though it had spark and good fuel. A farmer drove by on his tractor and told us to squirt some oil in the cylinders. It started right up with a big cloud of blue smoke. Maybe your cylinders dried out and you're not getting good compression. With new unseated rings, it's probably more likely to happen.

The fan pulls air in through the radiator. You should be able to figure out rotation from that.

Fixing the gauge won't make your engine run better. The ECU has its own sensor. 77 does not have a fuel pump priming function. Read the Engine Fuel chapter for how the fuel injection system works, and Body Electrical for the gauge. www.xenons30.com/reference

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/3672680155.html Not mine. Just saw it on CL.

Recent posters are ignoring or unaware of the history of Ben's Z's project. If you don't consider his other threads it does seem like Tony D just walked in to the party and started acting like an ass. But Ben's Z's project is a series of errors and ignored advice. He seems more focused on venting on the forum than actually doing things right. It's almost like he goes out in to the garage to screw something up so that he can come here and bitch about the injustice of the world. You do have to give him credit though, for continuously coming back to expose his lack of skills, and for more of the resulting verbal abuse. It's certainly entertaining and I'm looking forward to future threads about the blown engine/turbo/transmission or whatever, once he gets it running, in the the next year or two.

What year is it? Early 240s are popular restored, later ones not so much. The simplest way to get a good idea is to watch CL for a while and see what sells for what. From what I've seen, most people don't want to buy someone else's V8 conversion unless it's very well done. I see the same V8 swaps listed for months and sometimes years. Most people seem to buy these cars so they'll have something to play with on the weekends. They (we) spend lots of money on them, either a nickel and dime at a time or in big chunks, and stop keeping track once the number gets really big. The odds of recouping your investment costs, let alone making a profit, are terrible.

It should have run fine as you had it wired, red to W and green to G, IF it was running before and only the stock module crapped out. You never said why you were using the GM HEI module. Did the engine run before? I have damaged a GM module by running my engine with only 4 spark plug wires attached. After that it would only start with Starting fluid even when warm. It would run, it just wouldn't start. Installed a new module and it was back to normal. Still not sure what exactly happened inside the module to do that. I've seen other cases where people damaged the modules during installation.

There's Ray's check valve... There could be a better term for what the BOV actually does. Doesn't seem like it really does much blowing off. And there seem to be several ways to achieve the desired result. "Blow-off valve" seems like an over-simplification and should probably not be used to describe anything. Just a thought - ban the BOV.

Get the stock heat shields back on and you'll probably be back to heat soak only within a 20 minute period from 10 to 30 minutes after a hot shut-off, just like everyone else with a stock 280Z.