NewZed

I've no clue if your new design will work as intended, but I wonder if all of the welding has caused any warping. Probably worthwhile to check the manifold-to-head sealing surfaces.

This article from classiczcars.com might help you out - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content/156-s30-door-window-problems-troubleshooting-procedures.html There's a pdf file link on the page.

Shortening the slave rod might get you by. The sharper angle might put more wear on the bearing surfaces of the collar and fork but it might work. You said that there was some wiggle room for the collar without the slave cylinder installed. That's what matters most. Make sure that the pressure plate fingers aren't partially compressed without the slave cylinder installed. If they aren't, a shortened rod would be the way to avoid removing the transmission and starting over. To be honest, I might even try that just to know everything worked even before I took it apart to make it right. If I knew that the collar wasn't already riding the clutch. At least you'd have more to look forward to.

You're on hopium. As everyone is saying, there should be some play in the system. If you levered the fork to get the rod in then your slave piston is bottomed and there is pressure on the pressure plate fingers. It's like riding the clutch, you're just going to burn it up right away. The 1" of travel is probably just play in the pedal linkage and master cylinder push rod. On my car, I can reach down and push the slave cylinder rod back and pop it out by hand. It's been working great for about 35,000 miles. Force isn't necessary to put the clutch system together, even with a performance setup. Several people, myself included, have figured out that the key to matching parts is to get ~92 mm from the flywheel surface to the surface on the collar/sleeve that the fork rides on. Assuming a stock thickness flywheel. The slave cylinder, pivot pin and bellhousing mating surface always have the same spatial relationship. Edit - did you put a new bearing on the TO collar/sleeve? Maybe it's not fully seated.

Ben's has another thread on classiczcar. Says the motor came from an automatic car. Does anyone know what happens if you leave the spacer on the end of the crankshaft and install a flywheel on top of it? Maybe the flywheel is lifted an automatic spacer's width.

The brass piece is the pivot for the fork. It doesn't move. The slave cylinder pushes on one end of the fork and the other end moves the opposite way, toward the engine, pushing on the pressure plate springs. It may be that you didn't understand how the system works and have assembled it incorrectly. I got some picture editing practice in, maybe this will help. It's a cross-section so might take some study.

You're looking at the 1982 FSM? It doesn't show what the other guy has. I looked. www.xenons130.com/reference

There's two, at least, really nice drawings in the FSM, one in Engine Maintenance and one in Engine Fuel. Shows a screwdriver stuck "in a hose" to adjust idle speed. Could be that someone has removed yours.

Fuel pressure is critical. The ECU program is based on constant pressure at the injector tip. Some have run the gauge out from under the hood so they could see it while driving. You can't go wrong knowing that your fuel pressure is right.

Isn't the CHTS hole a dry hole? If it isn't, it's a tiny hole to the coolant passages. Wouldn't get much flow through there as-is.

I just tested a spare that worked well but was just a little bit rich (new MSA, swapped it for a used factory unit). 175 ohms at rest, bounced around from 175 to 250 over the range of the vane. I think that the 7-8 circuit might be the feed for the potentiometer. The ECU compares the outputs from 6 and 8 or maybe 6 and 9 to determine where the vane is, I believe. What kind of troubles are you having?

It's in a hose.

You can move one wire and bypass the ballast. For testing. It's bypassed at Start anyway, so if it was bad the car should start, then die when you release the key.

Where are the usual trouble spots? Have you gone through the tests in the FSM? Resistance of the magnetic pickup coil in the distributor, ignition coil primary and secondary circuits, etc. Ballast resistor. Might as well check it before you buy a new one.

? Why would you do this? Reinstall a "huge leak". Are you sure that you're not just more aware of the gauge needle since it overheated? The gauges aren't very accurate. When you say it still overheats are you going off the guage reading or some actual sign of over-pressure and over-temperature? And did you remember to put the belt back on?

Pretty sure it's in member CrayZ's "Q45 LSD tearing up cages" thread, or at least it can be figured out from what he was doing. It's a recent thread.

You should tell what was wrong since help was offered, even if it was just a bonehead mistake. It's only fair.

Thanks Ron, for the answer and for not Shedding me. I just took it apart and gave the shaft a twist with a wrench and it broke free. Spins easily now. Surface rust hopefully.

Way off topic, but worth a shot... Does anyone know if a direct drive three speed furnace blower motor should spin freely when unpowered? Unfamiliar with most AC circuitry and trying to upgrade my heating system. Can't tell if a blower is locked up or normal. Olsen WML-80. Thanks.

How can you do all of this - But not do this - It doesn't make sense.

The hook will come out fo the loop when the interior panel is off because the handle drops in to the door. When the panel is on, the hook will probably stay in the loop, unless something has been bent or maladjusted along the way. Put the little black pastic piece back on with the panel off and you might find that the hook stays where it should.

You'll spend more on gas and piss off the people driving behind you. For as long as it runs before the plugs foul.

I think that Nissan used Nippon or Nippon-Denso or Denso for injectors and that they are color-coded. The a46-00 is the common number that doesn't tell capacity. Beige though, would be the 188 CC NA injector, used on the 280Z engine. Stock 280Z NA injector.

I think that johnc started this thread with the title and Post #1 intended to draw out the fools, for entertaiment value. It's working.

You're a nice guy Miles. I was just trying to break even, but the middle is hard to hit. Hopefully he can take some advice without too much damage.