NewZed

So that's two for the oil pump check valve. So you two are saying that a good L6 oil pump will generate enough flow to overrun the oil filter relief valve with enough pressure to lift the oil filter off its base, blowing oil out, if the oil pump regulator valve is stuck or blocked? Or maybe so much flow is generated that the main gallery after the filter is a restriction, so the filter relief valve doesn't matter? Just trying to learn something. That seems like a lot of oil and a lot of pressure. Sounds interesting.

But what does this mean? At. At where? I would focus on figuring out where "at" is (why am I thinking of Bill Clinton?).

You can poke the check ball in with your finger or a soft tool with the oil filter off, I believe. EL-4 in the FSM describes service and replacement. A comment from the logical thinking perspective - if the oil is not coming through the sealing surface, where is it coming from? Blowing out through a seam in the filter? Is the filter damaged? Why are you focusing on the filter if you don't think it's leaking at the filter seal? Check the oil pressure gauge. Maybe you knocked it when you were changing the filter and it's cracked or broken at the base. A small hole at high pressure would spew.

There's not a whole lot to the oil filter and it's sealing surface. You just need to stick your head down in there with a bright light and see what's going on. The L6 has the most accessible oil filter mount and sealing surface that I've ever seen.

Yes. It screws on easy by hand, with no leaks. Take the filter off and take a good look at the sealing surface and the threads on the filter mount. Remove the rubber gasket from one of your old filters and stick it on there to see where it sits. Someone in the past might have scratched the sealing surface, or buggered up the threads.

PH8A is one of the correct FRAM numbers. TG8A doesn't sound familiar. Edit - p.s. - The Autozone guys can tell you the correct part number...

Are they the springy clip Volvo/BMW type connectors or the Nissan type with the removable wire? Pictures would be good. Are you selling at cost?

That works, but you did ask for advice in Post #12, after Tony D's comments. Seems like you just didn't like the suggestions, and followed with some thoughts that don't really fit the facts. Not sure a VG30 and an L6 are good comparisons either, plus the fact that Xnke has the cylinder 5 and 6 cooling modification on his L6. The water's getting kind of muddy here. I only got in to try to simplify things.

You blew off a good suggestion, with the assumption that "new" means "working correctly". You seem to be over-complicating a simple system. There's no magic. The antifreeze/coolant ratio, and/or the capacity of the radiator, shouldn't affect the opening of the thermostat.

The thermostat's main function is to keep coolant in the engine until it reaches a certain temperature. If the thermostat's working right, you must have a lot of coolant bypassing it. Edited.

B gets full, switched (key at Run), battery power. Make sure you disconnect the red and green wires before measuring resistance. If you're getting zero, the pickup coil might be bad. It's pretty easy to replace, if you can avoid breaking something as you pry the rotor off of the shaft, and you can get a replacement for under $20 at most auto parts stores.

Is there power to the B terminal of the module? Can't tell if that wire is even connected. The B terminal and coil positive need power during Start and Run. There are procedures in the ZX FSMs for testing the distributor. Resistance across the green and red wire should be about 400 ohms. You can also measure voltage across the green and red wire while twisting the distributor. If you don't get any voltage when the spikes inside the distributor pass each other, there might be something wrong with the pickup. Edit - changed resistance above.

Starting fluid would give you a hint and some hope. In addition to spark, the ECU has to fire the injectors to supply gas. There are lots of threads out there about 280Zs that won't start. The 280Z EFI system seems to be "use it or lose it". The Engine Fuel section in the FSM is an excellent read, full of explanations and test procedures. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I've seen reports of it being done by accident before. Can't remember the details, but there was a problem with it, event though the alternator was charging. Either the engine would keep running when the key was off, or the voltage was not regulated, or there was a battery drain with the key off. You might check with a voltmeter before you go much farther, high voltage can cause some damage. Don't forget to rev the engine to see what the output is above idle. The Z alternators barely put out enough amps at idle to supply all the loads.

I missed the "replace" part in your first post. Thought you were just cleaning and re-assembling (for whatever reason, I don't question people's motives). I replaced all of my u-joints a couple of years ago and found that the new ones were looser than the old ones I took out. Seemed like a good idea, newer has to be better. Ended up in your boat, using old factory half-shafts, with a re-grease before installing.

Remove the ground wire from coil (-) to the battery negative post. Leave the orange one, if that's what the instructions instruct. Your coil is getting hot because you have it grounded all of the time, and you're not getting spark because the circuit is never broken. The ignition module controls grounding and circuit breaking, to cause the coil to spark.

Could be anything between the dry portion of the fuel line and the liquid in the tank. Is the gas gauge on E?

The Nissan stock factory u-joints use retaining clips of different thickness (denoted by color) to set the cap clearance. Probably best to keep everything matched up.

Spray some starter fluid in the carb throats, then crank it over. If it starts, you have a fuel problem, if not you might have a spark problem.

Some call them D-bolts. Here's a picture - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/PropellerShaft/tabid/1724/Default.aspx Maybe you're trying to use half-shaft bolts on the propeller shaft. Half-shaft bolts are hex head and look similar.

It's Buck Wild's first post. Looks like a new troll has arrived. Ignore. Here's a good Craigslist aggregator if you want to check around a bigger area than local - http://www.craigster.net/

What? Another option?! I hadn't considered that Nissan might have their own transmission fluid, although I had my Pathfinder transmission fluid changed at the local dealer years ago (when I had less free time than I do now) and I remember noticing that the shifting was stiffer and notchier when I got it back. I wondered how the dealer fluid was different from the factory fill fluid but never followed up on it. Thanks for the details rejracer. The Pennzoil Synchromesh doesn't seem to be stocked by anyone in my area. The GM dealer has the GM brand at $17.95 per quart. So far, the 25/75 ATF/ Swepco 201 blend I'm using has raised the aggravation threshold to where I can live with it for a while. Synchromesh, Swepco and Nissan fluid seem like good options. Better than MT-90,which looks better than Valvoline 75-90W. Ranking based on a small set of experiences. How can a simple thing like oil get so complex?

This MSA product description suggests that the dampers are interchangeable but you'll need to do some work to get the timing marks right. http://www.thezstore.com - search the word "damper" and read the special note. Or just call MSA. I believe that your L24 has the degree marks on the pulley, with a single pointer on the block, whereas the 280Zs and ZXes have a single notch on the pulley, with the degree marks on the pointer, mounted on the block. Good luck.

That would be a smokin' amount of slippage. Do you smell burnt rubber? You could confirm slipped damper rubber by checking the timing mark with TDC. Even easier, just see if the timing mark is close. If your damper rubber was slipping, the mark wouldn't even be visible. There's probably something else going on. When did you last replace and/or tighten the belt?

There's a Parts Wanted sub-forum - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/73-parts-wanted/ Might have better luck there.