NewZed

The Aeromotive FPRs seem to regulate fine and give high flow but they will leak pressure down rapidly (within seconds) after the fuel pump turns off. Not a huge deal if you have a switch to run your pump before starting the engine, but it can be a pain waiting for the pressure to build while you hold the starter on if you don't. I have an Aeromotive and if I was going to buy another FPR for my daily driver, I would choose another brand that holds static pressure for at least a few hours.

You said can but I think you meant can't. This thread covers most of what you're asking about, I believe. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/

The 1x1x4 object, if it's made of a white ceramic material, is your ballast resistor. It's purpose is to drop the current to the coil when the engine is running. It shouldn't get warm unless the engine is running though, unless your points happen to stop in the closed position. Your points might have come loose and closed on you or shorted out. I think that there is another condenser under the distributor cap that can short out also. I would pop the cap and see how things look. Warning - I'm only speaking from general past knowledge of points operation. I have electronic ignition. There could be errors above.

I saw a set of 4 bolt 300Zx Turbo CV axles in the wrecking yard a couple of days ago. They were intact then, with the diff, but could be gone by now. End of Row 24 by the fence, at the Sherwood Pick-n-Pull, Sherwood Or, if anyone is interested. Hate to see them go to waste, the yard-time for cars in the Pick-n-Pulls is about 2 months.

Pretty sure that lots of static advance will make your engine hard to start and might have other consequences at low RPM. If you're pondering taking out all of the adjustable advance, both vacuum and centrifugal, and it's just a "Rat-racer", why are you worried about a degree or two of timing error, at a specific narrow RPM range. The error probably averages out over all 6 cylinders and is such a high frequency that you don't feel it when driving. If you feel something, it's probably not the timing bouncing. I may be mistaken but I think that the main reason to worry about steady timing at high RPM is to get the most power from all cylinders without having random detonation events. Modern cars use the ECU and sensors to run at the "ping" threshold, so timing error would be more important, leading to crank fire. Or it could just be cheaper to manufacture. Car makers worry about pennies per car. It's probably disturbing to see on the timing light but most likely has little effect, unless you're big-time racing. Have you quantified, in degrees, how much "scatter" you're getting?

Didn't think it was that uncommon. Mine has wheels though! http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-movers-dolly-38970.html This dolly plus some 1x6 pine holds the engine and tranny easily and is fairly easy to roll around a smooth floor (the orignal reason I got it and back to the OP's original post). I only did it to check a wrecking yard engine I just bought, before the warranty period ran out, plus troubleshooting before it goes in the car. Found a bad water pump. But since it's there, now it looks like a good platform for a Megasquirt installation. Fun, fun.

Economy engine stand -

The obvious solution is a tiny shock absorber. Try Hot Wheels or Matchbox.

Looks like the clutch pedal return spring. It fits up at the top of the pedal.

What's the modulus of that fence post, and how is it mounted? Are you adding functionality, looks or just weight? Or a place to strap the groceries down? Not an expert, but I think there's a little more involved to body stiffening modifications. The car looks like fun though.

Instead of the EFI bible, I would download the 1976 FSM. Open the Engine Fuel section and start testing. Test at the ECU connector. Jump ahead to Water Temperature Sensor, maybe you'll get lucky.

The word I've heard is that the only way to contact MM is by signing up at the web site and logging in. Phone and e-mail apparently doesn't work. For what it's worth.

Why did you post this? Is it about the Feds or is about the headlights? Or is it about the lack of regulations on how to adjust headlights so they don't shine high and in to oncoming drivers' eyes? Are you trying to start an aimless "Occupy something" type movement? Not clear what you're getting after.

I got my N42 thoughts confused with my flat-top thoughts, in my previous post. Any thread with "flat tops" in it seems to drift in to detonation discussion. The OP's original question was - "1. Ideally, what prep work would you do on a P79 head prior to application on a moderate turbo setup?" That seems like a reasonable concern. Who's running 300+ HP with a flat-top/P79 combination? I'm curious, specific examples are always more educational.

If they pump up and the fluid drops in the reservoir, you have a big air bubble in the system. Probably in the calipers, because the bleed screw is not positioned at the top of the cylinder like it should be. The fluid is taking the place of the air as it is compressed by pumping the pedal. The air doesn't come out because the fluid just passes under the bubble on its way out the bleed screw. If you look at the caliper you'll probably be able to discern the shape of the cylinder that the piston rides in. The bleed screw, if its port is drilled straight in to the cylinder, should be at the top of the cylinder, while bleeding. It's position will depend on how the engineers designed the caliper mounting on the car they came from. I've heard that some times you'll have to remove the mounting bolts and reposition the caliper to get the bleeder on the top. As long as the pistons are squeezing the rotor, or even a block of wood, you can bleed them that way then reposition them and bolt them back down for use.

Here's one thread that refers to the P79 and flat tops. I think that you might be misremembering some BRAAP comments. Post #18 is relevant. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96882-p90-vs-p79-cylinder-head-for-na-31l/ There is also another thread out there that discusses quench in detail (can't find it) Edit - found it - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63444-l6-squish-discussion-the-battle-against-detonation/page__pid__735389__st__40#entry735389 See #23, plus the link it refers to. Edit #2 - still not sure if the stock P-70/flat-top combo has the required low clearance to qualify as a bonafide "quench." Someone (maybe 1 fastZ? and BRAAP? and others) made some interesting comments about how there is no such thing as "some quench" or "partial quench". You either get a full quench or "squish", or you don't. I believe that means you're either pushing all of the unburned charge, that would otherwise detonate, out in to the burning charge, or there is a residual pocket of unburned charge that gets pressurized and explodes (as opposed to controlled burning). There were details in the thread about needing to get the top of the piston very close to the head at TDC in the squish area, otherwise your supposed "quench" area was ineffective. It seems about 50-50 on whether or not you can even use the N42 with flat tops using NA and avoid pinging, at the optimum timing advance. Most of what I've seen recommends a lower CR if you're going to use a turbo, unless you want to live on the edge. EDIT - Got my N42s mixed up with my P79s. Sorry, half of the above is irrelevant. The quench part I still wonder about.

Why would you get "hammered" for your question?

I'm not doing well on matching cars with diffs... Regardless, it looks like the short nose R200 on the MM site. Why does 240zstroked think it's an R230 is the question.

Edit - Just realized that the 300ZX NA autos came with 3.7s. The turbos came with 3.54. Just correcting an error, no guarantees this is right either though.

I think that's the common ratio (actually 3.538 or 3.54) for automatic or turbo 84-88 300Zxs also, with short nose R200s. And your picture looks like this one on the MM site - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G%2F&pic=DSCN1974.JPG - of a short nose R200. I think that the R230 is much bigger.

Reliability, mileage, stock - you'll lose your Hybridz street cred (not that I have any myself).

Have you tried a different alternator? And do you have the capacitor on it? There's more to "noise" than radio interference. The alternator can generate a lot of "noise" that can affect electronics when it goes bad. Just a possibility, I'm no electronics expert. But I have seen a couple of solid-state devices destroyed or damaged, specifically a radio and an ignition module, as a result of slowly dying alternators.

I've read the threads on cooling and my take was that you should use the head gasket that matches the block. Since the water flows from the block to the head, it makes sense. If there's a hole in the head, but none in the block to feed it, it doesn't really matter if the gasket matches the head. Have you considered a copper gasket? You could modify it yourself for your bore notches, plus they appear to be reusable. The prices seem in the ball park of the Nissan gasket. See the bottom of Page 1, although the whole thread is interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97135-copper-l28-head-gaskets/page__pid__914021#entry914021

The -11 means that the ground electrode is already pre-bent and gapped at.043". The others are pre-gapped at .031". So it would depend on where you run your gap. Here's a good link, though not the official NGK site - www.ngk.com - "plug" your part numbers in for details.

This might be too vanilla for Hybridz, but it seems more likely that someone here has tried it and would know. I'm wondering if the ECU/AFM EFI system for an N42/N42 block/head/A cam combo will have problems handling an F54/P79 block/head/F cam combo (the NA setup with flat tops). The CR changes from 8.3 to 8.8, and the cam grind changes also. The N42/N47 A cam has more intake lift and duration than the F54/P79 F cam, along with altered opening and closing events. I'm using the AtlanticZ page for reference on the cams - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm I might pick up a spare ZX engine for a spare and would use the stock 76 EFI ECU and AFM to run it in the future. Not "looking for an easy 400 RWHP at 9000 RPM" stuff but if anyone has comments, feel free...