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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. I had the same problem on my car when I got it. I hosed down the internals of the dimmer/turn signal switch with contact cleaner (Deoxit DN5) while I was trying to figure out how to get it apart and it started working. I never did take it apart and it's been working correctly since. That was 5 months ago.
  2. I had a similar problem with my car. Here is a wordy description - That thing you're pointing at that "might need a vacuum line" is the dashpot. It does not need a vacuum line, it is just open to atmosphere. It is designed to hold the idle up when downshifting or lifting the throttle, for emissions purposes mainly, as described in the Emissions section of the FSM. The dashpot can get stuck or sticky. Mine needed adjustment due to wear (76 car). The plunger had dropped down and was hanging up below the pad it sits on, holding the throttle open and giving a high idle. It too
  3. Thanks rejracer. I probably should not have trashed the Precision brand. And this may not be the right forum for my comments/question anyway, since I was looking for smooth shifting and driving not high performance. I get the impression that Precisions are very tough, durable and asequate. Mine just had a lot of slack in them right out of the box. Tight tolerances are expensive, that's why the OEMs are more expensive, I assume, and that's why Nissan recommends shimming the U-joints to spec. with the installation clips. I think the Z drive train design is very sensitive to play in
  4. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114142&highlight=spindle+pin+rental Here is a puller that seems very popular. I have not seen the design but apparently it works. I think it has the typical gear puller concept behind it, but pushes the rod through the hole. Of course, it takes away the fun of digging through your stuff to make your own extracting device. A slide hammer puller might work if the threads would hold up. I forgot to mention that the first pin actually got stuck in the bushing. I had to heat up the LCA and burn the bushing out with the pin in
  5. Looks like you got it figured out. I wrote the below while you were writing above... "Those "bolts" are actually the threaded ends of the same long rod. Called a spindle pin. The AtlanticZ site shows the worst case, going ahead and destroying the pin by sawing it in to three pieces, then driving each piece out. I just destroyed one two days ago, unintentionally, trying to use the nut on the spindle pin threads to pull itself out by stacking washers. It came part way but then a problem arose. The pin material is weak, the threads stripped. Then the end snapped off on the
  6. Fun, fun, fun. I think that I see bolt heads and nuts on your half-shaft (acck). Take a close look. Compare it to the drawing I sent. Try to fit the splines into the r200 hole. Take those nuts off and see if you are left with two parts, a half-shaft with a four-hole flanges on each end, and a spline shaft with a flange on it. My guess is that someone tried to lift your R200 by the half-shaft and the side flange popped out. I think you have a complete R200 there. As far as names, it looks like both sides, wheel and differential, can be called stub axle, depending on who i
  7. Are you sure that the half-shaft does not still have the side flange bolted to it? The shaft might have been popped out with the half-shaft attached. You should post a picture of the "29 spline 280z halfshaft". I think that you'll need part or two more also for your swap. Here's a link to a thread from a guy who did something similar. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26067 Re my Edit comment above - I was just referring to the fact that I'm not really an expert. I only replied initially because I'm working on my 280Z diff right now so was interested
  8. Picture of the 280Z half-shafts. R180 has splines, R200 has two flanges. Hope this helps.
  9. I think Nissan/Datsun called it the "companion flange", not adapter. Might help with your searching. They pop in and out, held in place with a circlip (I believe). Put "R-200 companion flange wanted" in Parts Wanted and you might get a hit.
  10. A comment/recommendation and a question - Short- Precision brand u-joints seem to be of surprisingly low quality. Can anyone recommend a better u-joint brand than Precision, that’s not super-spendy? Not brute strength, but tight, high-quality and durable. I put four new u-joints in and two of them are loose already, after 5 days. The car is a stock 76 280Z manual and I don’t use it hard, although I do like to get to speed quickly. Long - In my efforts to reduce the clunk in my stock 1976 280Z with manual transmission, I found that I had a loose, dry u-joint bea
  11. This wiring diagram that Saridout on ClassicZcars did is pretty good - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=308490#post308490 It's for a 76. It looks like the BY wire from the ignition switch comes from/goes to many places. It seems to be part of the START circuit, from what I can tell, with various safety features in-line. A in a circle is for automatic, M in a circle is for manual.
  12. How well did it run with that crank (assuming it did)? And what do the other engine components look like? Port work on the head, intake matching, etc. There must be some other goodies in there. Just curious...
  13. I think that the early 5-speeds had more of a reverse "avoidance" system of springs and check balls in the shifting mechanism. At least as far as I can tell from the FSM diagrams. I actually spent some time comparing the 78, 79, 80 and 81 5-speed shifter diagrams and can not find a difference in parts, except for what appears to be one extra "check spring" in 1981. So I don't know what the 1980 "lockout" is that is referred to in the other thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101796&page=2 I was hoping that someone with more experience with Datsun shifters than me wou
  14. So what y'all are saying is that he should move the red arrow and the "gas goes in" text in his picture down to point at the the white mesh on the bottom of the pump. And the tube with the hose clamped to it is probably the "gas goes out" tube. There's still one tube left in the picture - return line? Looks open at the bottom. Just trying to help clarify...
  15. Thanks for the ozgarage link. I did not know that was out there. Fairly informative, although, as you say, the main lesson seems to be that more ethanol in the fuel means you need more fuel in the engine. The E10 was estimated at 95 octane so it's not clear how much of the timing adjustment is from ethanol and how much is from octane number. I was hoping someone had actually noticed and recorded performance and tuning differences between 91 E10 and 91 E0, on a somewhat close to stock engine. Maybe there is none, except for slightly poorer mileage. Thanks again for the informa
  16. I took a large plastic food container, cut a small hole at the bottom corner, stuck some fairly large diameter clear tube (thin wall for large inner diameter plus you can see the oil) in to the hole (make sure it's a tight fit), placed the container in the car, ran the tube to the fill hole, then just took the top off the gear oil bottle, poured it in and went off to do other stuff. I think it took about an hour to drain in and I had a 1/4 pint too much (residual still in the transmission) so it overflowed, but once it was set up, it was easy. One of those plastic coffee cans would work
  17. With ethanol you run more advance? I have been Googling around trying to figure out what Oregon's E10 10% ethanol fuel mix does to an engine's timing requirements, and find that many people blame all of their engine problems on ethanol in the gas, from bad mileage to detonation to slow destruction. I haven't found a good discussion on how to tune for it's use. I have a stock motor, 1976 with EFI, that runs well but seemed a little down on power and gas mileage. I added 3 degrees initial advance (working my way up to more extensive {low budget} modifications, but I need to und
  18. Long as you're downloading, you should really get the manual. It is free at http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html . It describes how to check the AFM and all of the sensors. Plus it shows where the sensors are and what they look like. You can download the WinRar program to unzip it, there's a link to it on the page.
  19. I have a 76 280Z with the original motor. I feel your pain. The 1976 engines used the water temperature sensor as an input to the ECU for fuel supply. They don't come with a CHT, it came in to use a few years later I believe. The water temperature sensor is on the front of the motor, in the thermostat housing, and will cause the engine to run rich if the connection is corroded or it is not working correctly. Mine also backfired and had poor power when I got it. It turned out to be the Air Flow Meter. That's what it's called, not Mass Air Flow sensor. With a bad Air Flow Meter
  20. I just put a 5 speed from a 1978 280Z in my 1976. It works fine but I find that it is scarily easy to hit reverse accidentally on the way back down to 4th gear from 5th. I saw in an earlier post that the 1980 5 speed was the first to come with a reverse lockout. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101796&page=2 Does anyone know of a fix, mod or upgrade to the 1978 transmission or shifter or console that will provide a reverse lockout? Are they all this way or could mine be broken? As it is, I have to downshift to 4th with a very light grip to keep it away from reve
  21. Dandyz, are you saying that your 240 with sbc already has a gear drive, and that the noise is annoying as you are currently driving it? You are considering removing the gear drive and replacing it with a chain? I wonder if motor gear noise is transmitted through the chassis like differential gear noise when you go to solid or urethane mounts on the "moustache" bar. Does anyone know? Could the engine noise be better isolated with different motor mounts? I like precision but don't like noise either. Don't have a hybrid yet, but plan to eventually.
  22. It looks like the green/blue wire right between red/white and black. Stick a voltmeter probe down behind the wire and see what it shows with the engine running and not. You never know, a previous owner could have rewired your fuel pump. My car had an old wire run the length of the car next to the brake lines to bypass the AFM switch. Tried to add a picture from the FSM but the file was too big. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html has the 1976 FSM available for free download. You should get it while you can. It's good reading. Page BE-7 has pictures. Good luck.
  23. Glad it worked for you (so far). Be careful with those cut "hot" wire ends, they're fuse-blowing time bombs. The connector with the fuel pump wire is under the carpet along the edge of the rocker panel, at the bottom of your picture, out of frame.
  24. There's a brake warning lamp check relay under the passenger seat seat that will stay powered up incorrectly if you use the atlanticz.com approach without a few wiring mods. I think the problem is unique to the 1976 Zs. Here is a link - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36480
  25. I have a similar noise in my 76 with 4 speed. Based on the fact that it goes away when the transmission is under load I thought it might be the pilot bushing ni the end of the crankshaft. As I understand things, they can come loose and spin or they can get worn and give poor support for the end of the main shaft. Just another possibility, I have not fixed mine yet.
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