NewZed

280Zs usually came with 3.54 R200s. Most 280ZX 5 speeds came with 3.9. 1979 ZX and the 300ZXs manuals came with 3.7. 300ZX autos came with 3.54s but might have a different pinion flange. Just random recollections from browsing the FSMs to see what's out there. If you find a car, the FSM will tell you what it came with. Of course, someone may have swapped in the past.

Something here might work - http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=e9emj8

1974 just had an oil pressure sensor. The turbo unit is a sensor and a switch. If you want to use the switch, you would need to determine which terminal is the switch terminal (it will be all or nothing on resistance) and run new wire to whatever it is you want to switch (fuel pump, warning light, etc.). The other terminal would connect to your existing harness single wire. They started using the dual function sender in 77 or 78. The FSMs for those years do a better job of describing function (Body Electrical - 1978). This question seems like it should be in a separate thread...

I've used both on my stock 76 L28. But the FPR is different between 76 and 78 so you'll need the proper year FPR, or aftermarket FPR, and/or to do some fuel line plumbing modification. 76 had two inlets to the FPR, 78 has one. The cold start valve line is a hard line on 78 and rubber hose on 76 also, but they go to the same spot. The mounting brackets, and inlet/outlet lines start/end at the same spot.

You might be able to fake your way along with lower fuel pressure. Of course,there could be unintended consequences. The linked calculator below shows that you'd have to run about 12 psi fuel pressure to get close to the 265 cc turbo injector flow rate, so that the ECU can work with it, from a 450 CC injector (450 cc at 36 psi). Just an example, plug your own numbers in and see what comes out. I've never tried it but, in simple theory, it should work. I assume that the flow rate specs are at wide open, so injector solenoid electrical factors like opening time aren't considered (described in the FSM's Engine Fuel section). http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

The stock 78 distributor should work fine with an HEI module. $25, two extra wires from the coil, two wires from the pickup coil to the module and some mount fabricating and you should be running, with no questions about when the spark should happen. The stock 78 coil works fine with HEI also. Don't forget to leave the blue wire from the harness connected to coil negative so your tach works and the ECU gets its pulse. If you want more spark, get the performance module from Accel or similar and a coil to match. You probably know all this, but it's quick and easy if you're in a hurry. Probably the "best" for a low budget, not near Electromotive level though. p.s. "Best" in the title is a forum rule-breaker...

I would focus on the circuit from the negative side of the coils. For some reason it's grounded when it shouldn't be. Even if your sensor was stuck in the "trigger" position, modern ECUs and/or ignition modules won't keep the circuit grounded. It sounds like you have a short or the coil negatives' connected directly to ground.

Just realized that 77 might be the year of the change. I checked an auto store site and that seems to be the case. So 76 was the last year of the floating cylinder. 77 should have the duals.

The shoes are different. They changed from a single piston floating wheel cylinder to the dual piston type in 78, so the contact points on the shoes are different, if I recall. Maybe you don't have a 77 setup. I put a 78 rear suspension on my 76 (because I had it and it was in better condition than what I had on the 76), so have seen both. One possibility, in your case. Also, I noticed when I put new shoes in mine that the shoes seemed to be manufactured for a larger diameter drum. Only the forward and trailing edges were actually contacting the drum. Brake pedal travel varied for a few thousand miles until they wore in (when the pedal travel got high I would crank on the parking brake to shorten it. Did that quite a few times). Maybe the manufacturers expanded the shoe diameter to match the average drum size after turning? Just a couple of thoughts...

Have you searched on this site, Hybridz, using terms like "surge tank" and "sump"? There're quite a few threads on the site with diagrams and pictures.

It would probably help your quest if you identified what the relay is for. Ignition, fuel, ???

Sounds like you're already done.

I haven't had the problem but your description sounds like a misplaced reaction disc. Search the words reaction, disc and/or disk and you'll find lots to read.

You're Mitsubishi, if it is a 50 amp, is missing 10 amps from the stock alternator. Probably just an amp or two at idle but still short of stock. If everything worked and your only problem was brownout at idle, and you're sure the rewire to internal regulation is right, you could just put a ZX alternator on and be back to stock. Add an extra 100 to 200 engine RPM at idle. It helps if you don't mind losing the cool factor of a low lopy idle.

What's your starting point? Car, year, engine, EMS, etc. Can't really tell a thing from your two posts except that you probably have a ZX with a turbo.

Pretty sure that's a ZX, not a Z. They're different in many ways. It'll help you in any future questions to add year and model. Was it built or being built for drag-racing or just whatever happens?

These two links might help - http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html http://www.cartalk.com/ Make sure you post back if you get on the show, I want to hear what Tom and Ray have to say.

The FSM should have that information and it's free for download. Look in the EL - Electrical section. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

This calculator might give you some ideas - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Flat tops are shown as "Late L28" in the Pistons category. You can use negative numbers for head gasket thickness to simulate a shaved head (subtract amount shaved from head gasket thickness planned). You'll get a warning message about piston height if you "shave" off more than HG thickness but it will still give you a CR. An N42 head on a stock F54 block with flat tops and stock thickness HG would give 9.75:1 CR. Your 1983 engine should be at 8.8. The N42 head with dished pistons is at 8.3. I'm only writing from what I've read. People who've actually done this kind of modification will probably have more valuable comments. Also, I'm not sure if Europe uses the same octane numbering system as the States so that needs to be considered. Considering Tony D's remark, and what's been written out there on the internet and on this forum, it seems like it might be a lot of effort and money for a small increase in performance, with an increase in the potential for future problems. Good luck.

I believe that you can get essentially the same effect for less money (in the States anyway, not sure about Europe) and effort by using an N42 or N47 head. I haven't done it myself so can't speak to degree of difficulty but I think that the heads are interchangeable, as long as you get the right head gasket (match the block seems to be the right way) and make sure the oiling system is right (spray vs. through-the-cam). Search "N42 head on F54 block" and you'll find lots to read, and you should be able to confirm how hard it would be. If you decide that you really need the higher CR. You said that you were cutting the head to achieve a higher CR but now you say you only plan to shave a little. Don't you have a target CR in mind? The discussion (argument) on the benefits of running a high CR in the L motor using pump gas has, from what I've seen, been going on since gas quality dropped when they took the lead out (you'll see it if you use the search term above). Maybe German gas is of higher octane rating than US and you'll be okay.

This is why your first thread got Tool Shed'ed. The whole thing is good for a laugh though.

Jump the solenoid terminals with a wrench, screwdriver, or piece of wire, when it's in click-mode. If it works, then you might have a voltage supply problem, to the solenoid. Or, probably a safer way if you're nervous, use a piece of wire and jump directly to the solenoid wire from the battery. Again, if it works, it's probably a power supply problem. Ignition switches and/or supply wires and connections are known for developing resistance, after many years of aging and use. If you find that you can get it work with direct power from the battery, install a relay, to bypass the ignition switch and wiring. Search 260Z, relay, starter, and Ford to see some examples. Be careful when applying direct power that you don't burn something or melt some wires by accident. Best to connect the starter wire first then jump at the battery to test. Don't forget to put the transmission in neutral. It should give you some clues.

Pages 11-13 of the EFEC section of the 1987 FSM sure look like pin-out diagrams for component connections to the ECU to me, with numbers, lines and little symbols. I could be wrong.

There have a been a few threads around the Z sites recently about the common "clicking starter" problem in the 260Z. You might search the words 260z starter relay and Ford, either here, on Google or at a few of the other sites (there are definitely some threads on it at zcar.com) before you pull the starter out. Apparently the 260Z is known for losing some voltage on the way from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. Another way to test the starter and solenoid directly is to jump it from the battery right at the starter. You can do this before you pull the starter too. Might save you some time.

I did some digging since I started the debate. Here's a link to the actual RC Engineering site, with pictures - http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-System-Accessories-C9.aspx?UserID=10971335&SessionID=R8l9nP3D91Zqvscxzlz5 It shows the spring-clip style Bosch design connector. That EBay picture is hard to decipher, and may not actually be showing an RC Engineering product. Actually, the heading on the ad says RC Fuel, the logo over the picture says The Racers Edge (which doesn't seem to be anywhere on the RC Engineering site) And the product pictures don't look the same (see the basic clip with pigtail) - http://www.rceng.com/Injector-Wire-Clip-Type-C-P49C9.aspx Not sure why they don't link to the RC Engineering page if it's an RC Engineering Direct Warehouse. Here's another example of a Bosch style connector from DIY Autotune sans pigtail - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-ev1-p-111.html Another method to get new without cutting wires (although corroded wire ends are an issue also). Same with pigtails - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html Many options. The need for easy removability I would think comes down more to how often you putz around with your engine, or plan to in the future. It only takes one broken connector or lost metal clip though, to make you wish you had the spring-loaded style. Quality is harder to quantify, but factory-made parts in general seem to be of higher quality (my opinion), probably because they're expected to last 100,000 miles (my conjecture). Junkyard or internet depends on whether you like wandering the wrecking yard or not. Search Bosch injector connector and you'll get a bunch of hits. DIYAutotune has a good rep and is a Hybridz vendor and they look about the same price as those you asked about (one other option). Edit - I made some comments about the initial EBay ad earlier, then removed them. If that EBay ad is truly from a respected Hybridz member, maybe they could confirm the link to the RC Engineering company and address the difference between what is shown there vs.the official RC site. It would worry me if I was buying.