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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. It's there to keep voltage spikes out of your wring harness and away from electric components. Kind of like insurance for your ECU (or whatever they call it on the 79 ZX). The wire is actually the positive (hot) lead, the body of the capacitor is the ground. You can find them in the junk yard. A lot of Fords have them, easily accessible, if you can't find a ZX. Or an alternator condenser/capacitor from an auto parts store will work.
  2. NewZed

    Rear trans leak

    Nasty looking. My mistake on replaceablity of the tail section, if you consider half of the whole transmission housing as the "tail shaft". You'll probably need to buy a whole transmission to get the piece you need. Good drawings available in the FSM, with instructions.
  3. Did you look at the pictures in beerman's attachment? If you pushed the clutch fork forward, you might have pushed it off the pivot ball, you should have pushed it backwards and made sure it was seated on the pivot ball correctly. It should hang there. It's supposed to be held on to the ball with a retaining spring. Look at pictures #1 and #11. #11 shows the spring clip. If the retaining spring isn't holding the fork it might be dropping below the pivot ball and jamming. You might be able to lift it up while you install the slave cylinder to get it to work, if your spring is screwed up.
  4. I'm not positive, because I don't have one, but I think that the JTR swap manual covers all of your questions. I have read many comments suggesting it's well worth the money. I think that it is available here - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/OrderingBooks.html
  5. Apparently there is little benefit. I only proposed it as an alternative way to get an R200 with u-joint half-shafts in to a 240Z, without having any binding problems. I'm just trying to understand why the distance between the wheel-side companion flanges on a 240Z appears to be less than that between the companion flanges on a 280Z, since both body styles have the same track width.
  6. oakland240, I hope you don't mind me jumping in to your thread. I have read up on the R200 swap in to the 240Zs and am not 100% sure why the R200 with u-joint half-shafts fits fine in the 280Z but leads to binding in the 240Z. JMortensen, are the 240Z wheel-side stub axle and companion flange combination wider/thicker (from wheel mount surface to companion flange surface) on the 240Z? Is that where the lost width comes from? From what I can find the 240Z and 280Z have the same track width. If this is true, then one option to allow using an R200 in a 240Z would be to install the rear suspension and hubs from a 280z in to the 240Z to get the thinner stub axle/companion flange assembly, with more space from wheel-side companion flange to wheel-side companion flange. This should give all of the dimensions from a 280Z. Of course, springs, ride height and brake components would have to be considered to make everything work together.
  7. Looks interesting but my computer locked up on the third picture I tried to view. They are way too big. Here is a good thread to read - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98611-posting-pictures-please-read/
  8. The Body Electrical section of the FSM has some good small wiring diagrams, that show connectors with color codes. You should be able to at least isolate your short to a smaller area. Pretty sure that the connections all run next to the passenger seat, under the carpet. Have you tried removing the bulbs and turning the tail lights on to be sure you don't have a short a cross a bulb socket? Get things to where you can turn the combination switch on without blowing the fuse, then reconnect things until it blows.
  9. Related problem by tach behavior only - I recently put a Z31 coil on my 76 and found that the tach would just bounce around between 500 and 1000 RPM indicated, no matter what the engine RPM. I guessed that the circuit from coil negative was getting extra noise so I put a condenser/capacitor on the coil negative and the problem went away. I assume that the tach circuit never saw the zero part of the square wave (my understanding of how the later tachs work - could be off) so couldn't count right. Just one possibility, and an extra condenser/capacitor won't hurt anything. It might be a band-aid fix though, if the electrical noise is coming from an ignition module about to die.
  10. NewZed

    Rear trans leak

    You should post a picture. But it sounds like your transmission housing is broken. The tail piece is not replaceable, it's part of the housing. If the remaining pieces will hold the seal, you might be able to get by with sealant between the new seal and the chipped housing. That might be what the RTV you found was there for. Post a picture for audience enjoyment, and maybe some advice.
  11. He just ran a bigger wire to the positive post, see Post #14 - http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/dyno_day..._advice_899360.msg2716588.html#msg2716588
  12. The switches don't have anything to do with the trans going in to gear. I know that the early 240Zs had to have the shifter opening enlarged, but don't know about the later years or the 260Z. Are you sure that the shift lever is not hitting the edge of the opening? I've only heard of three switches on the 5 speeds, so three on a 4 speed would be new knowledge, for me anyway.
  13. Is that clear filter rated for 36 psi? Someone on this forum just reported on a car fire but didn't really say how it happened. Looks like you have an L28 in a 240Z so you probably have the "on when the key's On" fuel pump wiring. Smokey Bear
  14. Get the wheel off the ground (jack stands) and spin it by hand to see if you can locate the source. Check that the drum is not rubbing on the backing plate (brake disc in FSM lingo).
  15. Here's a thread from last year on the subject, if you're up paying for shipping, or a road-trip. At the least, you can tell the local drive line shops that it is possible. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/93688-280z-datsun-nissan-non-replaceable-ujoint-replacement-where-to-go-to-fix-for-just-103-in-30-minuets/page__pid__883219#entry883219
  16. This guy does - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42803-Exhaust-gasses-coming-OUT-of-valve-cover Go to Post #14. I can't verify character but he seems like a good guy on the forum.
  17. When the engine is running and the alternator turning, the battery is just another load on the alternator. I don't know enough to say what would be drawing all of those amps, enough to pull the battery down, but I think that you should be focused on supplying the loads directly from the alternator, not the battery. The battery circuit can just be a branch circuit off the main line from the alternator, along with fuel pumps, relays, etc. When lines are run from the battery positive terminal, the power is just passing by the battery through the positive terminal and all of its junctions. Many people install a terminal block, fed by the main wire from the alternator, and run their loads from that. Some also run another block for grounds. You should make sure that your alternator is well-grounded also. Just some thoughts. The main reason I'm reading this is I'm browsing dyno graphs to see where the stock 280's power typically drops off.
  18. I had thought of this as a possibility but had not heard of it happening until just now - http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/disintegrated_throwout_bearing_899546.0.html It's a possibility for you, but not a good one.
  19. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/83-drivetrain/ Topics 2, 5, and 13 are your best starting places. Hopefully, you've looked around and found these already. There's also a search option in the upper right corner of the page.
  20. I've seen batteries boil when the voltage regulator has gone bad,letting high voltage through. A short will overheat a battery also. How long did it take before the battery started steaming? If you were working on it for a while, while it was running, then noticed the smoking, it's probably the voltage regulator in the alternator. If it started smoking right away, that's more likely a short somewhere.
  21. Are you saying that the engine will run now, as long as you don't turn on the headlights? You can start the engine and drive around as long as the headlights are off? Or the engine ran, until the headlights were turned on, now everything is dead? One is a reproducible problem, the other is more random. Reproducible problems are easier to troubleshoot.
  22. Post a good description of what you measured and how, with numbers. And what does a "burned/overleaded" battery look like and how do you tell? Just trying to help, there's not much to work with in your post.
  23. It's possible that your fuel injectors are leaking. The gas pools in the intake and has to get burned off. You could install a pressure gauge and monitor fuel pressure, before you replace expensive injectors. If it happens whenever fuel pressure drops, that would be a fairly good clue, assuming that the FPR and the check valve are in good shape.
  24. A 1979 ZX shouldn't need a longer push rod, if all of the other components are stock and unbroken. If the fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder, then the rod has to be moving, if it's seated on the piston like it should be. It's just moving too far, which it shouldn't do. Why did you put a new slave cylinder on? You might have a problem inside the bellhousing. I have read that the clutch forks do break and bend occasionally. Can you tell if yours is intact and not bent?
  25. You might need a longer pushrod, so that the piston in the slave cylinder starts deeper in the bore when the clutch pedal is up. Your piston is starting its stroke too close to the open end of the bore, pushing all the way out of the bore, and getting stuck, it sounds like. The early 240Zs had adjustable rods. What year car are you working with?
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