NewZed

Pretty sure you can just grab them by hand and pull them out. They install by hand, along with a tubular metal inner bushing. The stock original rubber bushings are bound to a metal sleeve that has to be pressed out before the typical poly bushing can be inserted. If all you see is a hole with a metal sleeve then someone may have burned the rubber out already, leaving the outer sleeve.

Whoops, I missed the automatic part. That makes it difficult. If your timing is close and you have strong spark and the valves are opening and closing, starting fluid should get you a short burst of power. It sounds like your problem now is too much fuel. You described flooding, with soaked spark plugs. You might try drying the plugs out, then hitting it with the starting fluid before the next starting attempt. If it starts but then chokes on fuel and dies, at least you'll know everything is working, but with too much of the fuel part of the equation. You could even disconnect the injectors to avoid flooding, and fouling the plugs, entirely. If it starts and runs, then you can focus on the too much fuel problem alone. The injectors are held open for certain amounts of time depending on a list of factors, including how far open the AFM flap is, where the throttle blade is (TPS), how warm the engine is (water temperature sensor), air temperature, etc. A stuck or shorted TPS (showing WOT to the ECU), broken temperature circuit (showing a stone cold engine), or a stuck AFM flap (showing lots of air when there's little) are some of the causes I've seen described for extra fuel. CSVs have been known to get stuck also. Good luck. Edit - you said it's in a barn. Mice love to crawl up those long plastic air ducts to build their nests. I've seen nests in the air filter housings of a Buick, and the blower motor of a 78 280Z. Might be worth pulling the air inlet hoses from the AFM to make sure it's all clear in there, and the AFM vane moves freely.

There are a variety of ways to narrow the list of things that work and those that don't down to a manageable level. If you have confirmed that you have spark when cranking, try lining up the two lines on the distributor adjustment plates, by the locking screw. I've found that when the timing on my engine was correct, those two lines were aligned. Probably an assembly aid or done for future mechanics. Then squirt some starting fluid in the intake manifold and see if it starts. If so, you have a fuel problem, probably injectors not firing. To confirm that the wire to the ECU and the ECU operation is correct, for firing the injectors, connect a jumper wire to the negative terminal of the coil and leave the other end hanging, turn the key to On, then quick;y tap the jumper to ground multiple times. Every three times, all of the injectors should click. This trick has been described by Tony D on multiple forums, and the reason it works is described (with a little bit of extra thought) in the Fuel section of the FSM. Two simple ways to get an idea of what to focus on, fuel or spark. You said that you knew you had both, but you might as well confirm separately. If your injectors are opening and the engine doesn't start, then you should have wet, gassy spark plugs. Even without injectors, I believe that your CSV should be dumping enough gas to get it to kick. The ignition relay sends power to many different places, maybe you missed one with your converter harness. As for your timing, put the car in high gear and slowly roll it while shining a light on the crank pulley. You'll find the notch. Then mark and while you're down there, clean up the timing tab and mark Zero with some paint. These engines are just a collection of simple devices. Just make each one do what it's supposed to do and you'll have a running engine. Just dumping a few thoughts out there...

Spark plug wires in the proper order for counter-clockwise rotor rotation?

Paul Ruschman (aka BRAAP on this forum) of Rusch Motorsports in Sandy, OR, maybe?

They would but apparently they might not be such a good idea. The urethane is stiffer than the original rubber. Read this thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100525-tep-bolt-in-camber-plates/ Here's another in the same vein - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100574-factory-strut-top-insulators-without-the-rubber-pics-inside/page__pid__953187#entry953187 Your best option is to just replace it with a used stock insulator. They really shouldn't wear out unless they're abused. Check the local wrecking yards.

Have you "upgraded" to an internally regulated alternator recently? When I did my 76, I found that the common rewire procedure that I used left the "brake warning lamp check relay" activated all the time. It would drain the battery within a couple of days.

The red cable does not always mean positive on these old Zs. Have you confirmed that red is connected to the starter solenoid lug and that black is connected to a starter mounting bolt (the common positive and negative connection points)?

"how do i check it" is a worrisome phrase. The 280Z is actually a good car to learn on since it is very basic and everything is accessible and easy to see. But if you don't know how to check timing you should probably pick up a book about general auto repair and maintenance, along with downloading the FSM. You'll need a timing light to check timing and a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure.

ztore is having a sale. I think that these would do the job for less money but might give a little rougher ride, with urethane versus stock rubber - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/wes-02a/23-4189 They're selling springs also - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/wes-02a You might consider the wrecking yard for a replacement stock insulator and the zstore Eibach springs to get some ride height back, but still lowered.

This might help - http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ - I can't vouch for accuracy but it seems right if you put the stock numbers in.

Will it start with starting fluid in the intake? Distinguish between spark (and timing) versus fuel problems. If it stumbles but won't catch, you might have fuel problems.

Did you see some sparks or smoke? There's no good reason for your fusible link to melt just by wiggling the wires. Maybe you have a bad connection. The general feeling on the internet sites is that the green fusible links are meant to melt at 40 amps (50 amps on the MSA site below). The gauge is shown in the FSM Body Electrical section, but good luck figuring out what exactly the auto parts stores are selling, and what you should replace the green link with. Here is one internet source for a stock style link - http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCHM - search "fusible link". Edit - one option, if you trust MSA's 50 amp spec. would be to get an in-line ATO or blade style fuse holder and install the fuse of your choice. That's what I would do if I ever needed to replace that link.

The guys at Motorsport Auto would probably help you out. They have all of the numbers and sell remanufactured ECUs and AFMs. They call the ECUs "brains" on their website. You'll probably get the best response by phone. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3031

You were on the right track with this comment. Apparently the ignition system is working and the coil is creating enough energy for a spark. But it's not being distributed by the distributor. It has to be going to ground somewhere. Make sure that the path from the coil wire through the distributor cap, to the rotor, from the rotor tip across the gap to the individual electrodes and down the wires to the plugs is there, and not shorted to ground along the way. A simple start would be with an ohm-meter, measuring from an electrode inside the cap to the tip of the spark plug, and from electrode to ground. There should only be continuity to the spark plug tip.

Your swap will be very similar to what's described here, except no turbo - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ The 240Z small fuel line issue can probably be found with searching. The high volume/pressure EFI pumps will apparently develop enough back pressure on the return line to increase your fuel pressure, making it uncontrollable by the FPR, so that's a valid concern. Read through the L-Series forum in the FAQ/Powertrain section for more general EFI L6 information. - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/90-l-series/

Not for this thread...

Y'all should read some of those threads about boost pressure versus air flow. The pressure measured (boost) is essentially back-pressure or resistance to flow. Flow allows power and pressure increases flow, but flow probably does not increase with pressure linearly, in most cases.

The L Series engine forum is difficult to find for some reason but here's a link - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/90-l-series/

Swap the VR wires? Maybe your VR voltage pulse is backward.

You mentioned lots of blue smoke with a fuel rich smell, in the first post. Have you pulled a plug or two right after it won't start? It sounds like it's flooding, and it takes a day to dry out. Check your CHTS, if it's not working or disconnected, you'll end up with too much fuel.

Since it's okay to muddy this thread up I might as well throw in two plugs worth. On a completely stock 1976 280Z EFI engine I found that having plugs 3 - 6 all indexed between 10 and 2, and plugs 1 and 2 at 7 o'clock and 5 o'clock, respectively, gave a poor and rough idle. Getting 1 and 2 indexed between 10 and 2 also, smoothed the idle out dramatically. This is with NGK BPR6ES-11 plugs. I was surprised that indexing had a big effect, but it was real and noticeable. I only put the effort in because my engine's idle just doesn't seem as smooth as it should be, even with essentially identical cylinder pressure numbers and all new tuneup parts. And a couple of side notes - projected tip plugs really do increase the tendency to ping/knock/detonate, requiring retarding the time a few degrees. And the batch firing seems to give a different idle depending on which sets of two cylinders each start the injection cycle. Stopping and restarting the engine can clear up a bumpy idle. Just wanted get that out there while the details were fresh...

Do you mean the shock absorber inserts themselves? Are you just looking for the travel or a point to point dimension? Which points? I have a couple of old rear replacement inserts and the original style (oil bathed) fronts out in the garage from a 76 and 78.

The diagrams are in the FSMs and the FSMs are available for free download at the xenons30 and xenons130 web sites.

These old ECUs don't have the "limp home" mode that the newer computers do. They're primitive. Have you measured fuel pressure with the engine running? Fuel flow doesn't tell you much. Your problem sounds more like it's fuel related, with the lack of high RPM power, the dying and the backfiring. By the way, I think that your 1977 280Z is supposed to have 188 cc injectors. Are you running non-stock injectors or is that a typo?