NewZed

If they pump up and the fluid drops in the reservoir, you have a big air bubble in the system. Probably in the calipers, because the bleed screw is not positioned at the top of the cylinder like it should be. The fluid is taking the place of the air as it is compressed by pumping the pedal. The air doesn't come out because the fluid just passes under the bubble on its way out the bleed screw. If you look at the caliper you'll probably be able to discern the shape of the cylinder that the piston rides in. The bleed screw, if its port is drilled straight in to the cylinder, should be at the top of the cylinder, while bleeding. It's position will depend on how the engineers designed the caliper mounting on the car they came from. I've heard that some times you'll have to remove the mounting bolts and reposition the caliper to get the bleeder on the top. As long as the pistons are squeezing the rotor, or even a block of wood, you can bleed them that way then reposition them and bolt them back down for use.

Here's one thread that refers to the P79 and flat tops. I think that you might be misremembering some BRAAP comments. Post #18 is relevant. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96882-p90-vs-p79-cylinder-head-for-na-31l/ There is also another thread out there that discusses quench in detail (can't find it) Edit - found it - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63444-l6-squish-discussion-the-battle-against-detonation/page__pid__735389__st__40#entry735389 See #23, plus the link it refers to. Edit #2 - still not sure if the stock P-70/flat-top combo has the required low clearance to qualify as a bonafide "quench." Someone (maybe 1 fastZ? and BRAAP? and others) made some interesting comments about how there is no such thing as "some quench" or "partial quench". You either get a full quench or "squish", or you don't. I believe that means you're either pushing all of the unburned charge, that would otherwise detonate, out in to the burning charge, or there is a residual pocket of unburned charge that gets pressurized and explodes (as opposed to controlled burning). There were details in the thread about needing to get the top of the piston very close to the head at TDC in the squish area, otherwise your supposed "quench" area was ineffective. It seems about 50-50 on whether or not you can even use the N42 with flat tops using NA and avoid pinging, at the optimum timing advance. Most of what I've seen recommends a lower CR if you're going to use a turbo, unless you want to live on the edge. EDIT - Got my N42s mixed up with my P79s. Sorry, half of the above is irrelevant. The quench part I still wonder about.

Why would you get "hammered" for your question?

I'm not doing well on matching cars with diffs... Regardless, it looks like the short nose R200 on the MM site. Why does 240zstroked think it's an R230 is the question.

Edit - Just realized that the 300ZX NA autos came with 3.7s. The turbos came with 3.54. Just correcting an error, no guarantees this is right either though.

I think that's the common ratio (actually 3.538 or 3.54) for automatic or turbo 84-88 300Zxs also, with short nose R200s. And your picture looks like this one on the MM site - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G%2F&pic=DSCN1974.JPG - of a short nose R200. I think that the R230 is much bigger.

Reliability, mileage, stock - you'll lose your Hybridz street cred (not that I have any myself).

Have you tried a different alternator? And do you have the capacitor on it? There's more to "noise" than radio interference. The alternator can generate a lot of "noise" that can affect electronics when it goes bad. Just a possibility, I'm no electronics expert. But I have seen a couple of solid-state devices destroyed or damaged, specifically a radio and an ignition module, as a result of slowly dying alternators.

I've read the threads on cooling and my take was that you should use the head gasket that matches the block. Since the water flows from the block to the head, it makes sense. If there's a hole in the head, but none in the block to feed it, it doesn't really matter if the gasket matches the head. Have you considered a copper gasket? You could modify it yourself for your bore notches, plus they appear to be reusable. The prices seem in the ball park of the Nissan gasket. See the bottom of Page 1, although the whole thread is interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97135-copper-l28-head-gaskets/page__pid__914021#entry914021

The -11 means that the ground electrode is already pre-bent and gapped at.043". The others are pre-gapped at .031". So it would depend on where you run your gap. Here's a good link, though not the official NGK site - www.ngk.com - "plug" your part numbers in for details.

This might be too vanilla for Hybridz, but it seems more likely that someone here has tried it and would know. I'm wondering if the ECU/AFM EFI system for an N42/N42 block/head/A cam combo will have problems handling an F54/P79 block/head/F cam combo (the NA setup with flat tops). The CR changes from 8.3 to 8.8, and the cam grind changes also. The N42/N47 A cam has more intake lift and duration than the F54/P79 F cam, along with altered opening and closing events. I'm using the AtlanticZ page for reference on the cams - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm I might pick up a spare ZX engine for a spare and would use the stock 76 EFI ECU and AFM to run it in the future. Not "looking for an easy 400 RWHP at 9000 RPM" stuff but if anyone has comments, feel free...

I had a dry u-joint in a half-shaft and it caused a clanky, metallic type of clunk. Loose u-joints are hard to diagnose though, without prying on them with a screwdriver or taking the half-shaft off so that you can get a really good look at them. I've also found that old, worn Nissan u-joints that haven't gone bad yet seem to be tighter than new, ~$20 auto store u-joints. My limited experience with an old 280Z.

Your wiring looks fairly normal. Looks like someone removed your AC and heater system (just called AC in the FSM), the solenoids and vacuum bottle are gone. Unless you took them out to work on the wiring. Most of your pictures are too close to tell anything. What matters with wires is what they're connected to, not what they look like. The numbers on the trans don't mean much, there's a ton of information around the various forums about identifying transmissions. Just search "280Z transmission" on Google. Fuel problems are also common and there are some very basic things to do to figure out what's happening. Confirm fuel pressure and injectors firing are probably the two most important, since you've determined that it will run on starting fluid. Also, the 77 doesn't have a "priming" system for the fuel lines. The pump should only run when the engine is running or key at Start. Someone may have hot-wired your fuel pump or buggered up your AFM contact switch. Or you're hearing the antenna motor. Downloading the FSM and reading the Engine Fuel section will tell you a lot. Actually, you could just search "280Z won't start" or similar on Google and probably find over 50 threads describing exactly your issue. They all "ran when parked" and they all "start but won't stay running" when people come back to them. Pretty fascinating.

This calculator, which seems to be pretty good (I haven't seen a bad word about it)- http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ - might help you out. You can even put negative numbers in the head gasket thickness box to simulate a significant head shaving. It will tell you if you have piston-valve contact but doesn't say if you'll have piston "pop-up." And, no expert, but that piston-valve contact divot in your picture doesn't look slight, does it? Looks like it hit pretty hard and moved some aluminum. You can run carbs on an N42 or N47 head from an L28 (the common head for that block), they still have the threaded carb manifold holes. That would get your CR down from the >10 the E31 gives, if you want to avoid those potential problems. Not sure about the P79 or P90 heads and carbs, the threaded holes might not be there any more, like they are in the N42 and N47. Looks like a fun puzzle to piece together.

Why were you looking at your alternator? 3.0 = V6? New wiring harness with swap? Use the FSM for the harness you're using.

280Zs usually came with 3.54 R200s. Most 280ZX 5 speeds came with 3.9. 1979 ZX and the 300ZXs manuals came with 3.7. 300ZX autos came with 3.54s but might have a different pinion flange. Just random recollections from browsing the FSMs to see what's out there. If you find a car, the FSM will tell you what it came with. Of course, someone may have swapped in the past.

Something here might work - http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=e9emj8

1974 just had an oil pressure sensor. The turbo unit is a sensor and a switch. If you want to use the switch, you would need to determine which terminal is the switch terminal (it will be all or nothing on resistance) and run new wire to whatever it is you want to switch (fuel pump, warning light, etc.). The other terminal would connect to your existing harness single wire. They started using the dual function sender in 77 or 78. The FSMs for those years do a better job of describing function (Body Electrical - 1978). This question seems like it should be in a separate thread...

I've used both on my stock 76 L28. But the FPR is different between 76 and 78 so you'll need the proper year FPR, or aftermarket FPR, and/or to do some fuel line plumbing modification. 76 had two inlets to the FPR, 78 has one. The cold start valve line is a hard line on 78 and rubber hose on 76 also, but they go to the same spot. The mounting brackets, and inlet/outlet lines start/end at the same spot.

You might be able to fake your way along with lower fuel pressure. Of course,there could be unintended consequences. The linked calculator below shows that you'd have to run about 12 psi fuel pressure to get close to the 265 cc turbo injector flow rate, so that the ECU can work with it, from a 450 CC injector (450 cc at 36 psi). Just an example, plug your own numbers in and see what comes out. I've never tried it but, in simple theory, it should work. I assume that the flow rate specs are at wide open, so injector solenoid electrical factors like opening time aren't considered (described in the FSM's Engine Fuel section). http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

The stock 78 distributor should work fine with an HEI module. $25, two extra wires from the coil, two wires from the pickup coil to the module and some mount fabricating and you should be running, with no questions about when the spark should happen. The stock 78 coil works fine with HEI also. Don't forget to leave the blue wire from the harness connected to coil negative so your tach works and the ECU gets its pulse. If you want more spark, get the performance module from Accel or similar and a coil to match. You probably know all this, but it's quick and easy if you're in a hurry. Probably the "best" for a low budget, not near Electromotive level though. p.s. "Best" in the title is a forum rule-breaker...

I would focus on the circuit from the negative side of the coils. For some reason it's grounded when it shouldn't be. Even if your sensor was stuck in the "trigger" position, modern ECUs and/or ignition modules won't keep the circuit grounded. It sounds like you have a short or the coil negatives' connected directly to ground.

Just realized that 77 might be the year of the change. I checked an auto store site and that seems to be the case. So 76 was the last year of the floating cylinder. 77 should have the duals.

The shoes are different. They changed from a single piston floating wheel cylinder to the dual piston type in 78, so the contact points on the shoes are different, if I recall. Maybe you don't have a 77 setup. I put a 78 rear suspension on my 76 (because I had it and it was in better condition than what I had on the 76), so have seen both. One possibility, in your case. Also, I noticed when I put new shoes in mine that the shoes seemed to be manufactured for a larger diameter drum. Only the forward and trailing edges were actually contacting the drum. Brake pedal travel varied for a few thousand miles until they wore in (when the pedal travel got high I would crank on the parking brake to shorten it. Did that quite a few times). Maybe the manufacturers expanded the shoe diameter to match the average drum size after turning? Just a couple of thoughts...

Have you searched on this site, Hybridz, using terms like "surge tank" and "sump"? There're quite a few threads on the site with diagrams and pictures.