NewZed

That's a shame. You'll be parting the car out now? Failed in how to use a tap? Broke the tap off in the nut? The nut turned with the tap? Used the wrong thread pitch? Just kidding. You're not really asking a question anyway, just reporting a result.

I thought that was a given. Urethane in front, rubber in back.

Ignoring bumpsteer (I think I know what that means) you can see that the flexible components of the front suspension can lead to toe-out as the wheels get pushed back. The steering gear can remain static, while the bushings compress. Braking must put some extra strain/wear on the steering gear also since it ends up under a higher tensile load. Urethane or solid bushings at the T/C rod and control arm probably help it last longer, and reduce toe-out.

I would get in to the wiring diagram and see what has power at Start and what has power at On/Run. The ignition module needs its own power supply as you noted but you may have disconnected it. This diagram doesn't seem right since it doesn't show power to the module during Start (the short path (BL) is Start, the long one through the resistor (BW) is On) but it does show that W and BW at the module need power. Check those with the key at On. Maybe you have power there at Start but not On. The diagram is simplified, the ignition relay might actually be in the circuit. The full circuit with all components is in the link. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm

I think that this car is just an L6 with Nissan manual transmission and Subaru R180. The whole thing is kind of bizarre. I have a new theory - the CV axles are too short and pull out while driving. Hence the twisted axles and missing or broken clips. Doesn't explain the propeller shaft not moving while the car is in gear and engine running though. Maybe the propeller shaft is too short also.

There are two wires that power the coil - one for Start and one for Run. Sounds like only your Start wire is connected. Or you haven't addressed the fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM. Usually the engine will run for a few seconds before dying if it's the fuel pump contact.

Just curious. Don't see many members from Poland. The banana/bullet connectors are stock. You probably adjusted things out of spec. trying to make it work with all of that extra fuel. Good luck.

The diff nose can't rise to hit the e-brake unless the rubber of the diff mount stretches. If you're stretching the diff mount rubber you should go with an RTz style mount. http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

How can the diff nose do anything if there's no power being transmitted to the rear wheels? You went from incomprehensible problems to hard acceleration with no explanation. This is the oddest thread I've seen in a while. You have three nice car, I have one old one. Why do I bother thinking logically?

Check your CHTS. It might be disconnected. You're kind of far back in the knowledge spectrum. You might spend some time reading the Engine Fuel chapters of the earlier 280Z's. They give excellent explanations of how things work. The later ZX FSM's are less descriptive. The concepts are the same. Ponder what the words mean. "Turn over" and "crank" are essentially the same thing. Way back, they used to use a crank to turn over the engine. "Fire" or ":ignition" is typically used to describe what you're hoping for when you crank the engine. Sorry to keep picking, but the words are what we use to convey information. Bad word usage = bad information. 8. The engine cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over

The obvious one is the coolant temperature sensor. Are you really in Poland, or just goofing? http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Engine Fuel, read the chapter. Also, you'll get better ideas if you are more descriptive than "playing". To some people that means hitting with a hammer,to others it's going through a complete calibration process.

Haynes and Chilton aren't Factory. They're just simple notes on what might be right. "B. The distributor even though I'm getting spark maybe it's not working properly and yes I switched it 180 degrees and checked both ways to start it" You swapped your distributor around and back, but you don't need to do this. Just verify the notch and groove at the cam sprocket, and the damper timing mark at zero, and the cam lobes up (not straight up, just valves closed), and the distributor rotor pointing forward, all pointing or oriented the correct way at the same time. You can verify proper orientation of numerous parts all in one step. Get everything lined up and correct, then pick #1 on your distributor cap, put #1 in and fill the rest of the holes in the proper order and rotation direction. That's the procedure. The guys that throw their engines together and fiddle around to make them work know how they operate so they can do that. But if you're not clear on that, you need to start from a solid base. Good luck.

You're not measuring anything. The only numbers in your entire post are "83 280". The injectors should not flood the engine. They might be shorted. Measure voltage at the connections with the key On. The method to confirm camshaft timing is described in the Engine Mechanical chapter - notch and groove, not "8. Engine was at tdc the cam key was straight up and the sprocket had number 1 pointing straight up". Correct firing order and rotation for plug wires is out on the internet somewhere. The method to confirm proper orientation of the distributor rotor is described in Engine Mechanical also (how did you replace the HG without seeing these things?). The NA ECU doesn't have any lights. You should put a proper procedure together, not a list of things from the internet, follow it, and write down what you measure.. Go through the Assembly subsection of the Engine Mechanical chapter of the Factory Service Manual. Start from scratch. Good luck.

Check your Air Regulator. It's purpose is to let extra air past the throttle blade to increase the idle speed at cold start up. They can get gunked up inside, or the electrical connection can corrode. You should have about 1000-1200 RPM idle speed for a few minutes right after a cold start. You might just have too low idle speed.

Is this car new to you, or is it an old car with a new problem? You said that the engine runs fine when it's warm. Valve lash increases as the engine heats up. Checking lash would be a good idea. You might have a valve not closing when cold, causing a dead cylinder. That's very bad.

I got "motivated" 'cause you challenged my description of his motor as "new" (it's pretty common to see less than 10 miles on a new car's odometer), then took it further with the valve float comment. That's just how the world works...

So, back to the OP's issue - If the oil is clean you could just use what's in there. Probably full of ZDDP. Nissan factory spec. Drain it to make sure no water has condensed in over the years, although those cam lobes look like they've been pretty dry, then pour it back in. Then use one of the several oils recommended here for the first oil change. I'd dribble some oil over the lobes and rockers before turning it over to prime. The lobes look like they've drained completely dry of any oil.

Not mad. You sounded like you knew something with this post, but apparently you were just making things up. If anyone's agitated, it's you.

It says the first 1000 miles is critically important. Which is the regime the OP is in right now. It doesn't look like you've been keeping up with cam and rocker damage horror stories.

That's what I thought.

You should give numbers. Timing, fuel pressure, pretty much anything that can be quantified. And what does timing do when you rev the engine.? Does it advance? Valve lash is easy to check, even if you don't adjust it. Turn engine, stick in feeler gauges, write down numbers.

Some places say they have NOS. http://nissan.dealerdirectparts.com/Nissan-Part-number-54320-N3701-p/54320-n3701.htm http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/9

Describe "factory run-in". From 1981. Use details.

People have had your problem. You just need to find the nut from inside the car and replace it if you can't fix it from below.

All of the ideas are out there. You've shown that the driveshaft is not firmly connected to the engine or the rear wheels. It seems to be spinning in space. The car should not have moved at all before the axles twisted, from what you've shown in your videos.