NewZed

Sure, let's see some evidence from Audi about a pre-filter. Not a strainer, with big holes, but a filter for small particles. I've seen the in-tank plastic screens used on the in-tank pumps. Not the same as that G3 paper filter. The basic point is understand how the pump works and what it needs. You've just gone a bit hyperbolic in your recommendations. And a lot of these guys are using pumps with flow rates much higher than they need. What L6 out there needs 255 LPH? That's over twice what the stock pump produced. It's just not needed. Pretty sure that Nissan used the same fuel pump for NA and turbo engines. No offense to anybody out there using the 255 pump. But it seems to lead to more problems than it's worth.

That's something. No demands though, just the boilerplate "warranty will be voided" copy. Quite a difference between a strainer and filter. You'd think more is better, but it's not.

You're avoiding the points and you've edited your original post. No point in talking to someone who revises history and won't own what they said. I didn't say Airtex was small, I said that they were just a run-of-the-mill aftermarket supplier. Not some high performance ceramic turbine technology (whatever that is) race pump producer. And my points about using what the big manufacturers use is valid and logical. They did the research. And they don't use prefilters.

I'm seeing gerotor design for the typical external Walbro 255. Like an L6 oil pump. They typically pass a lot of crud. http://walbrofuelpumps.com/255lph-walbro-gss342-intank-fuel-pump.html http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl-series-universal-inline-fuel-pumps https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerotor I think that Walbro has done some good marketing and is winning the image game. but really, they're about the same as the other guys. My tendency is to go with what the high end car makers use, for their long lifetime, high displacement, relatively high performance engines. Like the Bosch pumps used on BMW's, or Ford F150's. High flow, correct pressure, designed to last a long time. Pretty sure they don't use a prefilter. Just saying, don't overcomplicate. Never seen any demands from any fuel pump company about filters or cleaning tanks either. Got a sample, maybe some instructions or a web page? And Airtex is just your run of the mill aftermarket company. Which Walbro is too, really.

Which coil (brand) worked, and which didn't? Future reference.

Here's what you'd be dealing with - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm Some people have proposed that the pickup tube inside the tank can get a pin hole and suck air. But it doesn't seem to rise high enough to start happening at 1/2 tank. The hole would have to be above the fuel level. At least you have a fix, to keep you going. If the obstruction(s) is(are) floating maybe you can siphon them out from the filler tube. Or use the drain plug and drain all of the fuel. See what comes out. That's probably the quickest way to assess what's in there. Use the fuel pump to pump it as low as possible and the drain plug to finish.

Nissan used a big inlet hose to feed the pump with an open screen to keep out the big stuff. If the tank is clean you shouldn't need that filter. The pump will actually pass some pretty big crud and the big filter before the rail will clean it up, under pressure, before the injectors. The inlet filter is over-"engineering", throwing the whole system out of balance.

I don't know the BMW cars very well or their service manuals, but it looks like they were using L-Jetronic for quite a while. I found a manual and downloaded (I save all old documentation on the off-chance I might actually get one in the future). Could it be the fuel injection relay that's the problem? Looks like they were doing the same as Nissan, a separate pump relay and an EFI system relay. Could be that one powers the other. Nissan started using a control relay to power a relay on their fuel systems in 1978. I don't know if the EFI relay needs to work to run the pump relay, but I do know that my 76 car wouldn't start when the EFI relay started to die sporadically. I had a fuel pump switch, kind of like where you ended up before the starter problem, so never figured out if the pump was working when the EFI relay went bad. Here's a link and a picture (page 163). Things were probably similar for the M6. It's a big file. http://www.mediafire.com/download/tmn3nj4z2k2/bmw_e30_repair_manual_v7.pdf

Might be worthwhile to take a step back and rephrase the current state of the situation. You had the pump working on the 21st but it wouldn't start and the starter made noise. Now you've rebuilt the starter but apparently the pump stopped working again. Not clear which problem you're working on. Didn't most manufacturers settle on a bypass circuit to the pump for Start, and then some signal, either alternator voltage or a tachometer signal or oil pressure, to keep it working? Seems like you should easily get pump power with the key at Start. The ECU shouldn't even be involved.

Holy moley. Didn't know you were running 312 cc (or 330, whatever, way too many cc) injectors. Since you went with Pallnet it's assumed you went with his injector recommendation for a stock ECU. The ECU is designed for a specific flow rate. It doesn't adjust. The high impedance injectors will, actually, work with the stock ECU. With or without the dropping resistors. Not sure if the fine details of opening times matter with the primitive ECU, but they do open and close as they're supposed to.

Looks like they were only partially engaged/falling out. Don't know where the circlips sit on the Subie diff, inside or on the axle. Did you have the clips fully engaged in the groove?

I wouldn't clamp a fuel line with a steel-braided cover. The hose inside is not rubber, it's a plastic. Plastics will be damaged and not recover like rubber if they are compressed too far. It might be okay in its damaged state but the damaged area will be a stress riser for future fatigue, like a kinked drinking straw. Once it's kinked it will always bend in that spot. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/ Just work fast.

So, how much did your swap cost? That's the sub-topic, actually knowing the numbers.

Be a beta tester - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125553-hoke-performance-ls-mounting-kit-beta-tester-needed/?do=findComment&comment=1173752

Can't read your posts. You must be on a phone. You're stuck in the "I just can't believe it" loop. If you want to know, you'll keep track of your costs as you actually do it, or put a plan together first. If you don't, you'll probably get stuck halfway because you're out of money, or don't want to keep spending until it's done. All I'm saying is that putting a detailed plan together will tell you what you're going to have to spend. The fact the fuel pump is an important part of your budget, shows that you don't really have any idea of what it's gonging to take to get it done. Plus the "what else do I need" questions. No offense. And spending the money is just part of it, you have to assemble the pieces or have it done. Regardless, you'll still have fun even if you do run out of money. Everybody has their "close enough" decision point. You might be close enough to go for it.

Read the Broken Kitty list and Donovan's For Sale post. Or just go for it. You sound like you know what to do and have the parts waiting. Get to it. You've got people saying it's a piece of cake, should be easy.

Sorry Donovan, I was just making a point for the OP. These swaps are expensive. Your post is a good illustration from somebody who's done what the OP wants to do. You probably spent much more than $7000. You're the guy he wants to find though. Already did the leg work, just bolt it in and play. Good luck.

Will you take $3000 for it ? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125325-feeler-complete-lq9t56-jci-set-up-7-obo/?do=findComment&comment=1171335

You don't see why the costs are high or you don't know what the costs are? A few clicks and calculations and I'm already at your budget. About $500 - 1000 for the mounts, depending on what you get - http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ESK-TM-LS-240Z-KIT http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm Over $3000 just for the T56, apparently - Everybody wants one. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ls1-t56-transmission https://www.google.com/#q=t56+transmission&tbm=shop Plus engine, exhaust system, modifications to it to make it fit the 240Z. Plus nickel and dime parts. These internet forums, in general, are full of people who just remember one number, like the cost of the engine, and ignore the rest. Often from something they did ten years ago. Make a quick list and show how you can get what you want for $3000. Then you'll see and you'll have something tangible to talk about. You haven't even got in to differential and axles yet, to handle the power. Let alone body strengthening for the 240Z. Put a short list together, with dollar figures. It will be illuminating. Many people spend $5000 just getting their stock 240Z or 280Z running right, over a year or two. The small costs will eat up a budget.

Clarity can be tough. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear engine mount. Hard to tell which mount you're talking about. Regardless, every item except the long bolt for the rear mount attachment to the body is in that link, with part number. It shows the bolt but doesn't ID it. Your Nissan dealer will have the number. Good luck.

5?

Have you tried the local dealer? They have microfiche and/or computer files. A good parts guy can tell you. Pick the guy with gray hair though. You can probably find part numbers here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

Dead/dying battery? ECM's like proper voltage, starter motors lose their drive at low voltage.

Get this book - https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

Have you driven it yet? Are you looking for power so you can say you have the number or do you know you really need it? If you go with an LS engine you'll need a new engine mounting kit, plus a different transmission. Probably blew your budget right there. Daily driver, canyon runs and track days are three different things, I believe. The suspension "upgrades", whatever they are, are probably more important for those things. Take the individual comments with a grain of salt each. Don't forget that it's crap comments that make a crap forum.