NewZed

You forgot to add the little emoticon. To show you're being ironic.

You were so close. You can't really take an uppity tone when the answer was right there, and you almost had it yourself. It was the "wrong" pulley for the timing tab, and, by some definitions, it was a hack job. Pretty clear.

You could follow the instructions in the Steering chapter. Apparently there are two "punch" marks.

You're just planning way too much cutting and welding. Cut a 2x2" piece out and weld in a new one. They can even fabricate a new floating nut. Or cut the floating nut piece out of the parts you've bought or are planning to buy if you just have to have original Nissan parts. Find a friend who has some real mechanical skills who can look at it and give advice. If you go in to the wrong shop with this problem they're going to milk you for hundreds or thousands of dollars when they realize that you don't know much. Only being blunt to save you some money and future problems but you're on the verge of making a big mistake. This would not even be considered a real problem for most of the people on this forum, just a simple activity, maybe an hour's worth of time. No offense. You're in over your head. You're on the right forum though, if you can just take the advice.

Weren't you installing one liner so that you could keep the other five as-is? Now that you have four bad, you're in simple bore all six and get new pistons territory. Probably cheaper than four liners and keep the pistons. Might be time to stop and calculate. Four liners, keep pistons = X $. Bore all six, get new pistons = Y $.

Bummer. Seems like removing a groove from a double row might be an option. Why do you need single? This guy might have one or could rebuild. Good luck. http://www.datsunstore.com/crank-pulleys-7083-rebuilt-turbo-p-652.html

You could just take a hole saw and cut a circular piece out. Seems like you're overthinking the problem. I'd take it to a body shop and let them recommend a fix. They're used to working with sheet metal and structural elements. It's not complicated for somebody who works in the field.

MSA has two options. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02c/10-2139 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12d02c/10-2138

That's considerate. But there are probably 50+ threads on this forum alone with your almost exact problem description (except for the 2 psi number). One more won't hurt though. Not sure how a relay swap fixes "no pulse". Unless there's no power to the injectors. That can be checked with a meter. Good luck. The clutch problem probably has 100+ threads. You're surrounded by ghosts.

That might have been me who commented about the tachometer. I've seen it twice with stock ignition systems but my 76 car, currently, with a GM HEI ignition module doesn't do it now. So it's unclear. It might be a problem but it's not guaranteed. There's a simple test you can do to see if the injectors are being triggered. Connect a wire to the coil's negative post. Leave the other end dangling free. Turn the key On. Quickly tap the wire to a ground point. A spark will be created at whichever spark plug is in line with the rotor. Every third tap should fire all six injectors. The tapping is mimicking the ignition module and the ECU sees the sparks and responds on every third tap/spark, a full revolution of the engine. If you get injector firing don't worry about the tach. If you don't you'll have to figure out why. You might be trying to do too many things at one time. With the EFI system you can check each component individually, and as assemblies. Read the Engine Fuel chapter to understand how the fuel pump gets its power, and when.

You already showed that the motor does "turn" and also "fires" if you add gas. It's turning. You haven't said or shown that you know the injectors aren't opening. If they did open what do you think the difference in quantity of fuel will be between 2 psi and 36 psi? Your title is on track - "not getting fuel". The most likely cause is low fuel pressure. The test procedures for the injectors and the fuel pump and much more are in the Service Manual.

Proper fuel pressure is very important. 2 psi is not right.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

"Stock" 280Z EFI systems won't handle a turbo well. People do it but it takes some in-depth engine management knowledge to make it work. If you take it to a shop they won't know how to make it work either. You are in over your head, there's no easy way. You could just leave the turbo disconnected and use the 280Z EFI system to run the engine. It will just be a low CR L6 engine. Drivable with much less chance of blowing up. Seriously, there's much more involved than what type of connector to use.

Why wait a week? There's all kinds of special you need to know. Check bunblezee's thread. You haven't said what engine management system you'll be using. http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ https://www.google.com/search?q=Needing+some+wiring+help+with+l28et+swap&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS584US584&oq=Needing+some+wiring+help+with+l28et+swap&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Nissan did essentially the same thing from 76 to 95. Lost the liquid/vapor separator or incorporated it in to the tank by 95. Some hose, a check valve and a carbon canister, plus the correct fuel filler cap, and you should be able to rig something up. There was a thread a while back about how the newest cars have a pump to the tank to pressurize it, the tank itself not the fuel line, to a certain low level. Thought it was crazy, but it's true. Could be the for anti-cavitation as Tony D described. Edit - actually it appears to be just for system-checking. But, who knows for sure. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0453 Diagrams from 76 and 95, 280Z and 300ZX.

The Hybridz calculator is a bit higher than the Ozdat. Dished and flat shown. The 10's probably come after a shave.

Seems to give very close numbers for the stock configuration though. Implying that the calculator equations are correct. 280Z engine, dished pistons, 1.25 mm HG, 8.3 CR.

There was a guy on the forum who had a similar problem with adjustable struts cut too short. He built an adapter to take up the space. Basically a piece of pipe with a flange on each side.

Might as well to that, the matter of degree - just welding, or welding and shaping, welding/shaping/porting, welding/shaping/porting/flow testing to a specific number, etc. I remember reading about a guy who taught welding and raced L series engines. He reshaped the intake ports in to the valve cover area via added metal to raise the port floor and give a more direct path to the valve head. Had to build a new valve cover to fit it, it was that high. You can go pretty far if you want to. Might be in the How To Modify book.

Never mind.

The first video here shows the engine.

Easy to get lost in what's going on.

Have you studied the fuel systems of the cars the VG33 came in? Seems like the "hot start" problems with the L28 were mostly from the design of the engine, with injectors next to exhaust manifold. The L6 engine is a carb design retrofitted with fuel injection. The VG33 doesn't normally have hot-start issues in the cars it's used in, does it? It's an EFI design from the beginning.

Or....the wiring wasn't right.