NewZed

Might be worthwhile to take a step back and rephrase the current state of the situation. You had the pump working on the 21st but it wouldn't start and the starter made noise. Now you've rebuilt the starter but apparently the pump stopped working again. Not clear which problem you're working on. Didn't most manufacturers settle on a bypass circuit to the pump for Start, and then some signal, either alternator voltage or a tachometer signal or oil pressure, to keep it working? Seems like you should easily get pump power with the key at Start. The ECU shouldn't even be involved.

Holy moley. Didn't know you were running 312 cc (or 330, whatever, way too many cc) injectors. Since you went with Pallnet it's assumed you went with his injector recommendation for a stock ECU. The ECU is designed for a specific flow rate. It doesn't adjust. The high impedance injectors will, actually, work with the stock ECU. With or without the dropping resistors. Not sure if the fine details of opening times matter with the primitive ECU, but they do open and close as they're supposed to.

Looks like they were only partially engaged/falling out. Don't know where the circlips sit on the Subie diff, inside or on the axle. Did you have the clips fully engaged in the groove?

I wouldn't clamp a fuel line with a steel-braided cover. The hose inside is not rubber, it's a plastic. Plastics will be damaged and not recover like rubber if they are compressed too far. It might be okay in its damaged state but the damaged area will be a stress riser for future fatigue, like a kinked drinking straw. Once it's kinked it will always bend in that spot. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/ Just work fast.

So, how much did your swap cost? That's the sub-topic, actually knowing the numbers.

Be a beta tester - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125553-hoke-performance-ls-mounting-kit-beta-tester-needed/?do=findComment&comment=1173752

Can't read your posts. You must be on a phone. You're stuck in the "I just can't believe it" loop. If you want to know, you'll keep track of your costs as you actually do it, or put a plan together first. If you don't, you'll probably get stuck halfway because you're out of money, or don't want to keep spending until it's done. All I'm saying is that putting a detailed plan together will tell you what you're going to have to spend. The fact the fuel pump is an important part of your budget, shows that you don't really have any idea of what it's gonging to take to get it done. Plus the "what else do I need" questions. No offense. And spending the money is just part of it, you have to assemble the pieces or have it done. Regardless, you'll still have fun even if you do run out of money. Everybody has their "close enough" decision point. You might be close enough to go for it.

Read the Broken Kitty list and Donovan's For Sale post. Or just go for it. You sound like you know what to do and have the parts waiting. Get to it. You've got people saying it's a piece of cake, should be easy.

Sorry Donovan, I was just making a point for the OP. These swaps are expensive. Your post is a good illustration from somebody who's done what the OP wants to do. You probably spent much more than $7000. You're the guy he wants to find though. Already did the leg work, just bolt it in and play. Good luck.

Will you take $3000 for it ? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125325-feeler-complete-lq9t56-jci-set-up-7-obo/?do=findComment&comment=1171335

You don't see why the costs are high or you don't know what the costs are? A few clicks and calculations and I'm already at your budget. About $500 - 1000 for the mounts, depending on what you get - http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ESK-TM-LS-240Z-KIT http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm Over $3000 just for the T56, apparently - Everybody wants one. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ls1-t56-transmission https://www.google.com/#q=t56+transmission&tbm=shop Plus engine, exhaust system, modifications to it to make it fit the 240Z. Plus nickel and dime parts. These internet forums, in general, are full of people who just remember one number, like the cost of the engine, and ignore the rest. Often from something they did ten years ago. Make a quick list and show how you can get what you want for $3000. Then you'll see and you'll have something tangible to talk about. You haven't even got in to differential and axles yet, to handle the power. Let alone body strengthening for the 240Z. Put a short list together, with dollar figures. It will be illuminating. Many people spend $5000 just getting their stock 240Z or 280Z running right, over a year or two. The small costs will eat up a budget.

Clarity can be tough. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear engine mount. Hard to tell which mount you're talking about. Regardless, every item except the long bolt for the rear mount attachment to the body is in that link, with part number. It shows the bolt but doesn't ID it. Your Nissan dealer will have the number. Good luck.

5?

Have you tried the local dealer? They have microfiche and/or computer files. A good parts guy can tell you. Pick the guy with gray hair though. You can probably find part numbers here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

Dead/dying battery? ECM's like proper voltage, starter motors lose their drive at low voltage.

Get this book - https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

Have you driven it yet? Are you looking for power so you can say you have the number or do you know you really need it? If you go with an LS engine you'll need a new engine mounting kit, plus a different transmission. Probably blew your budget right there. Daily driver, canyon runs and track days are three different things, I believe. The suspension "upgrades", whatever they are, are probably more important for those things. Take the individual comments with a grain of salt each. Don't forget that it's crap comments that make a crap forum.

You wouldn't replace the clutch necessarily, just the actuating cylinders. Inexpensive. Get more specific than "United States" and somebody might be able to point you somewhere.

The engine code is stamped on the side of the block, above the #5 and 6 cylinders. It will say L28 if it's an L28. How fast is fast? The L28 moves the cars pretty well. It will be difficult to find a mechanic who can work on the old Datsun engines. Good luck. Put "Michigan" in the title of your post to catch some eyes.

Can't you look a little bit longer, and further afield? $1200 doesn't seem like a great deal, the 260's are the odd ball Z's. Not too exciting. You could probably find a 280Z that runs, out there somewhere, for $1200. The clutch system is hydraulic and there's no way it's going to work. After 10 years,outside, most Z's will have the rear brakes locked. A couple of cylinders will have valves open, and outside, there will be some small surface rust, probably stopping the engine from spinning. Best to squirt a bunch of oil in the plug holes before trying, just to reduce damage from scraping over rust. Condensation cycles over many years can actually fill a crankcase with water. Best check oil level first. If it's high, there's probably water at the bottom, lifting the oil. Under the battery, and the floors are the most common rust spots. Check the gray car's rear suspension. I'd say that one's definitely not going to roll.

Looks like fun. I'd put something about Motronic or BMW ECU in your title. Otherwise it looks like a thread about a boring old Z or ZX ECU. Beside that, I think that BMW calls theirs ECM's.

Good news. Now, back to those vacuum leaks... Those two books are still worth looking through, The FSM and the Injection Guide. Nissan did a great job of describing how everything on their cars works.

Standard. British Standard. Click the underlined blue letters.

Believe what you see. Figure out how it happened later. Did you pull the plug wires when you were doing the fuel rail work? Or remove the distributor? Many of these engines have been put together wrong and had their wires moved to "fix" the error. You probably put the wires back the way they're supposed to be when the rest of the engine is right. Put the timing mark on zero, with the cam lobes for #1 up, and see where the distributor rotor is pointing. It should be pointing just left of straight ahead (there's pictures out on the internet somewhere). Or do that and post a picture. Or remove the distributor and see where the drive tang is pointed. Equal voltage on both coil posts is normal. It doesn't change until the distributor is spinning. Here's some good information. You don't need all of it. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

It's probably BSPT, British Standard Pipe Thread. That's what Nissan used on many of the engine port threads, the oil pressure sender, for example. http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals/