NewZed

The seals are only good if they create pressure. Should have checked for pressure before removing. Sorry, but it's measuring you need to do, not more looking. The problem with just replacing is that you'll still need to make sure it's all assembled correctly. But, you're in the might-as-well zone now. Might as well replace since they go bad eventually and you have it apart. Odds are decent it will work right when you put it all back together. Ttake the new parts apart and make sure they're not contaminated with honing grit before installing.

You need to move on from the "maybes" and "seems" and take some measurements. I had a slave cylinder that leaked in the middle of its stroke when it got hot. It seemed right, and it held pressure. Just didn't move far enough. Took me a while to figure it out. And it was a new cylinder. But it was dirty inside.

The rocker panels are the stiff part of the metal box that is the chassis. They're like frame rails, tied directly to the fender wells. The floors, not so much.

It's just a few flakes. They might not even have left the top of the cylinder head.

You're not giving many details. Disassembled the clutch pedal, won't go in to gear, pedal doesn't feel right, adjust linkage every which way. It's not clear if the end of the clutch fork moves even a millimeter. See if the end of the clutch fork moves when you press the pedal. Or remove the line from the MC and see if you can generate pressure there. The cylinders are known to corrode at the ends over time. If the seal dragged over it it might be toast. The system is simple. The pedal and linkage move a piston, fluid moves through a tube, another piston moves, a rod moves, the end of the clutch fork moves. You need to determine which part isn't doing its job.

But does it go in to gear when the engine is running? That was the original problem. Now the pedal doesn't feel right.

I see it now. Worth more examination.

DEREK probably knows for sure but it looks like a core shifted during casting. The machining operation broke through and the QA department probably had to give it pass to let it through. Just a guess.

No pictures of rocker arm pads. Just cam lobes. They don't look terrible.

You might have ruined the seal in the MC when you let the piston come all the way back when you disconnected the pedal, or sucked some air. Or you put it back together incorrectly. If you're sure the mechanicals are right the best you can do is to bleed the system and hope. There's a chapter called Clutch (CL) in the FSM.

The only way the replacement axles would be twisted is if he sent you a pair that somebody else twisted and returned. Hope you used Paypal, and don't let the time limit run out. He might be stringing you along until time runs out and you can't get your money back. The BS about the twist being in the design doesn't bode well for you.

Those axles are ruined. They've twisted and you're trying to insert them in to straight splines. They were only engaged at the tips while you were using them before because they weren't held in by the circlips and slid out. Looks, also, like they may have been twisting even when they were fully inserted, since the twist extends the length of the splines. Might have worked their way out as the twist grew. Insufficient heat treatment maybe, or just too much torque and tire..

Their comments about regulators are vague and not worth much. A proper regulator setup will maintain pressure. Do you have any regulator at all? The symptoms they describe are for fuel starvation, not over-pressure. If you don't have a regulator then you could have 7 psi at the carb, but only if there's a restriction. You could just measure pressure.

The 280Z tach works from voltage, not current. So you'll have to wire it correctly. Offer some clues about how you wired up the ZX system and what, exactly, the tach does or doesn't do, and you might get some help. It wasn't even apparent that you had the distributor installed from your first post. And "doesn't work" could mean almost anything.

Some people have no problems, some do. There's no real tricks to the conversion, the ZX module does what the points used to do. The tach still sees the current flowing in to the positive post of the coil. Try it and see what happens. There's a guy on another forum who said that he had zero issues with his 240Z, it was a simple problem-free swap. The MSD system is different in how it pulls the current to load the capacitors, I believe (guessing). It pulls less or more or not as cleanly.

This should answer the first part - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/78_280Z_wiring.pdf Many people add relays to the headlight and the running light circuits, to take the load off of the switch on the top of the steering column.

Sure, let's see some evidence from Audi about a pre-filter. Not a strainer, with big holes, but a filter for small particles. I've seen the in-tank plastic screens used on the in-tank pumps. Not the same as that G3 paper filter. The basic point is understand how the pump works and what it needs. You've just gone a bit hyperbolic in your recommendations. And a lot of these guys are using pumps with flow rates much higher than they need. What L6 out there needs 255 LPH? That's over twice what the stock pump produced. It's just not needed. Pretty sure that Nissan used the same fuel pump for NA and turbo engines. No offense to anybody out there using the 255 pump. But it seems to lead to more problems than it's worth.

That's something. No demands though, just the boilerplate "warranty will be voided" copy. Quite a difference between a strainer and filter. You'd think more is better, but it's not.

You're avoiding the points and you've edited your original post. No point in talking to someone who revises history and won't own what they said. I didn't say Airtex was small, I said that they were just a run-of-the-mill aftermarket supplier. Not some high performance ceramic turbine technology (whatever that is) race pump producer. And my points about using what the big manufacturers use is valid and logical. They did the research. And they don't use prefilters.

I'm seeing gerotor design for the typical external Walbro 255. Like an L6 oil pump. They typically pass a lot of crud. http://walbrofuelpumps.com/255lph-walbro-gss342-intank-fuel-pump.html http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-gsl-series-universal-inline-fuel-pumps https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerotor I think that Walbro has done some good marketing and is winning the image game. but really, they're about the same as the other guys. My tendency is to go with what the high end car makers use, for their long lifetime, high displacement, relatively high performance engines. Like the Bosch pumps used on BMW's, or Ford F150's. High flow, correct pressure, designed to last a long time. Pretty sure they don't use a prefilter. Just saying, don't overcomplicate. Never seen any demands from any fuel pump company about filters or cleaning tanks either. Got a sample, maybe some instructions or a web page? And Airtex is just your run of the mill aftermarket company. Which Walbro is too, really.

Which coil (brand) worked, and which didn't? Future reference.

Here's what you'd be dealing with - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm Some people have proposed that the pickup tube inside the tank can get a pin hole and suck air. But it doesn't seem to rise high enough to start happening at 1/2 tank. The hole would have to be above the fuel level. At least you have a fix, to keep you going. If the obstruction(s) is(are) floating maybe you can siphon them out from the filler tube. Or use the drain plug and drain all of the fuel. See what comes out. That's probably the quickest way to assess what's in there. Use the fuel pump to pump it as low as possible and the drain plug to finish.

Nissan used a big inlet hose to feed the pump with an open screen to keep out the big stuff. If the tank is clean you shouldn't need that filter. The pump will actually pass some pretty big crud and the big filter before the rail will clean it up, under pressure, before the injectors. The inlet filter is over-"engineering", throwing the whole system out of balance.

I don't know the BMW cars very well or their service manuals, but it looks like they were using L-Jetronic for quite a while. I found a manual and downloaded (I save all old documentation on the off-chance I might actually get one in the future). Could it be the fuel injection relay that's the problem? Looks like they were doing the same as Nissan, a separate pump relay and an EFI system relay. Could be that one powers the other. Nissan started using a control relay to power a relay on their fuel systems in 1978. I don't know if the EFI relay needs to work to run the pump relay, but I do know that my 76 car wouldn't start when the EFI relay started to die sporadically. I had a fuel pump switch, kind of like where you ended up before the starter problem, so never figured out if the pump was working when the EFI relay went bad. Here's a link and a picture (page 163). Things were probably similar for the M6. It's a big file. http://www.mediafire.com/download/tmn3nj4z2k2/bmw_e30_repair_manual_v7.pdf

Might be worthwhile to take a step back and rephrase the current state of the situation. You had the pump working on the 21st but it wouldn't start and the starter made noise. Now you've rebuilt the starter but apparently the pump stopped working again. Not clear which problem you're working on. Didn't most manufacturers settle on a bypass circuit to the pump for Start, and then some signal, either alternator voltage or a tachometer signal or oil pressure, to keep it working? Seems like you should easily get pump power with the key at Start. The ECU shouldn't even be involved.